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Author Topic: Parker Thanksgiving 2009 Pictures  (Read 715 times)
Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com
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« on: December 10, 2009, 06:54:29 PM »
Finally got around to posting up the pictures on the SCJB facebook. Become a fan here.

Here some highlights...
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Luckie Stiff
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« Reply #1 on: December 10, 2009, 06:57:35 PM »
Great pics Brad, thanks for posting them.  Thumbs Up
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Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com
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« Reply #2 on: December 10, 2009, 06:57:58 PM »
I think i got a little water in my bildge   Embarrassed
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76 Bonneville
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« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2009, 04:03:42 PM »
Here are a few pics of the carnage from Thanksgiving.
In the frist pic #6 piston is rotated slightly, in the other pics you can see why.

* Blown 496 002.jpg (128.93 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 51 times.)

* Blown 496 006.jpg (115.04 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 56 times.)

* Blown 496 008.jpg (110.34 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 56 times.)

* Blown 496 009.jpg (133.37 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 46 times.)
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Luckie Stiff
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« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2009, 04:08:19 PM »
OUCH! That's an ugly mess Ron. It sucks that it's bad enough to need a new block as well as rotating assembly, have you spoken to your engine builder about it yet?
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« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2009, 04:20:29 PM »
ouch is right...maybe time for a new engine builder that is damn ugly
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Quote from: beerjet on December 28, 2009, 07:28:00 PM
Anyone know how to do it or is this one of them deals I should let a proffesional bend me over on .

-beerjet-
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« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2009, 04:24:10 PM »
Quote from: Luckie Stiff on December 12, 2009, 04:08:19 PM
OUCH! That's an ugly mess Ron. It sucks that it's bad enough to need a new block as well as rotating assembly, have you spoken to your engine builder about it yet?
He's been calling me every other day, to see if i've gotten torn down. He wants to know what happen as badly as I do.
Harold & JR had mentioned that the Procomp heads are known for water leaks because of there valve guides, they always replace the factory ones. We'll send them in next week to have them pressure tested.
If they come back ok, then maybe the block gave way. One way or another water must have gotten in there and it doesn't compress so well, causing the bearing failer.
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Nordie
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« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2009, 04:31:08 PM »
seen a cylinder look like that before one other time it was chromeys motor and it definately was from water in the cylinder
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Quote from: beerjet on December 28, 2009, 07:28:00 PM
Anyone know how to do it or is this one of them deals I should let a proffesional bend me over on .

-beerjet-
GT Jets
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« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2009, 04:32:49 PM »
Ron,

Without seeing it, smelling it, or touching it...That looks like a block defect to me. That is the exact spot you would see cylinder wall thickness issues, the lack of carbon make me think she leaked for a while before saying good night...

If it were mine, I would have the next cylinder over checked for wall thickness (or lack thereof)...What year block is that? (later = thinner castings).

GT
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Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on December 22, 2009, 07:40:31 PM
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.
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« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2009, 04:39:15 PM »
Quote from: GT Jets on December 12, 2009, 04:32:49 PM
Ron,

Without seeing it, smelling it, or touching it...That looks like a block defect to me. That is the exact spot you would see cylinder wall thickness issues, the lack of carbon make me think she leaked for a while before saying good night...

If it were mine, I would have the next cylinder over checked for wall thickness (or lack thereof)...What year block is that? (later = thinner castings).

GT

  X 2 !
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76 Bonneville
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« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2009, 04:48:18 PM »
Block # is 14015445 1979 - 1990
Date code is G048    July 4 1988
Wall thickness seems to be around 3/16 from what I can see. I'll try to break out the pieces to get a better look at it.
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GT Jets
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« Reply #11 on: December 12, 2009, 05:07:47 PM »
3/16"  Shocked

I will go out on a limb and say .300" minimum (or 3/10" if your splittin hairs  Grin)

I would be willing to bet that rectangle that broke out of the block was not a coincidence, there is a ridge around the jackets in at or about that pattern....sonic checking on any late model block (about 1980 or newer) IMHO is not an option, must be done, I have personally gone through and chucked 2/3 of the engine blocks built from about 1987 and up when getting into big bore sizes (more than .060" over bore)  due to a bad sonic check. 

Do you have a block? I have a nice early '70's two bolt (perfect for a converson to splayed mains) if it is needed to get you back in the running...PM if I can help with anything...I don't have a lot, but if you need it let me know.

GT
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Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on December 22, 2009, 07:40:31 PM
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.
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« Reply #12 on: December 12, 2009, 05:13:39 PM »
Quote from: GT Jets on December 12, 2009, 04:32:49 PM
Ron,

Without seeing it, smelling it, or touching it...That looks like a block defect to me. That is the exact spot you would see cylinder wall thickness issues, the lack of carbon make me think she leaked for a while before saying good night...

If it were mine, I would have the next cylinder over checked for wall thickness (or lack thereof)...What year block is that? (later = thinner castings).

GT

X3. Would also be curious to know how close each piston is sized compared to each other, I've seen some Probe's over a thou different from one another in the same set, and if possibly the block was bored and honed to one piston size alone,
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« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2009, 05:24:56 PM »
The are engine remanufacturers and then there are engine BUILDERS.   Quality machine work and assembly is worth every penny.
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76 Bonneville
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« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2009, 05:25:50 PM »
Glenn, not quite 3/16, how about .152

* Blown 496 013.jpg (55.17 KB, 1024x768 - viewed 24 times.)
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« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2009, 05:26:44 PM »
Quote from: 76 Bonneville on December 12, 2009, 04:48:18 PM
Block # is 14015445 1979 - 1990
Date code is G048    July 4 1988
Wall thickness seems to be around 3/16 from what I can see. I'll try to break out the pieces to get a better look at it.

3/16....thats a little thin for me....check the thickness on the thrust and non-thrust sides....what bore size was it?
THRUST SIDE;  2 THRU 8, OUTER BY MOTOR MOUNT.....NON-THRUST; BY INTAKE.
THRUST SIDE; 1 THRU 7...BY INTAKE VALLEY...NON THRUST BY MOTOR MOUNT.
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« Reply #16 on: December 12, 2009, 05:35:51 PM »
Bore is 4.310
How do you measure wall thickness?
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Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com
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« Reply #17 on: December 12, 2009, 05:38:39 PM »
Needs to be sonic checked. whoever did your machine work...did they not do any of this?
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enginedoctor
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« Reply #18 on: December 12, 2009, 05:54:51 PM »
Quote from: 76 Bonneville on December 12, 2009, 05:35:51 PM
Bore is 4.310
How do you measure wall thickness?


You have a chunk u just measured....more than likely all cyl's are close...once again a little thin 4 me.
1.  How u check cyl. wall thickness:
    Sonic test all cylinders from north to south & east to west...inexpensive insurance.
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« Reply #19 on: December 12, 2009, 05:58:37 PM »
HOLY SHIT!!!!

New motor with less then 15 minutes on it!
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Ralph Brunt
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« Reply #20 on: December 12, 2009, 06:09:34 PM »
Quote from: Marcsrollin on December 12, 2009, 05:58:37 PM
HOLY SHIT!!!!

New motor with less then 15 minutes on it!
CHEBBY Evil Evil Evil
just kidding hope you get back to racing Thumbs Up
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Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!
76 Bonneville
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« Reply #21 on: December 12, 2009, 06:21:43 PM »
Quote from: Marcsrollin on December 12, 2009, 05:58:37 PM
HOLY SHIT!!!!

New motor with less then 15 minutes on it!
Come on Marc, 35 min. We had 20 min on the trailer before we put the driveline in and another 15 at the river. $200.00 per minute Grin
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GT Jets
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« Reply #22 on: December 12, 2009, 06:30:08 PM »
All I have to say is WOW.

No disrespect to the builder, but that block would have been in the scrap pile, late blocks (I'm not that old, but that's a late block IMHO) are so lightly cast, to get a good one, you need to buy three or four cores....Same goes for the heads.

I would look for a mid 70's core and have it magged and sonic checked before putting one milling tool to it.

Also, check for centered camshaft and main bearing holes, I once saw a Tonawonda 454 (1999) that had over 3/8" offset in the cam bore. Guess what that would do to everything else?  The oil pan leaked from day one, the pan rail bolt holes actually protruded through into the crankcase  Screwy

Hope you have better luck on the next one. Thumbs Up  May get at least an hour out of it  Wink

GT
« Last Edit: December 12, 2009, 06:38:57 PM by GT Jets » Logged
Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on December 22, 2009, 07:40:31 PM
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.
Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com
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« Reply #23 on: December 12, 2009, 06:35:13 PM »
 Bang Head Mad Bang Head

Go see enginedoc next time. I'm sick of seeing these motor casualties in the class. He's givin deals to scjb members...and probably better deals to racers. Give him a call and see what he can do for you.
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« Reply #24 on: December 12, 2009, 06:44:31 PM »
Thanks Glenn, this was the block we ran last year with 427 rotating assembly. It was 30 over and I never gave much thought to boring it another 30. Really isn't much, but apparently might have been enough to be the problem. We'll get the heads checked this week and if they weren't the cause we know it was the block. I have 3 more blocks, not sure which way were going to go yet. Would like to be back racing in March, but who knows.
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