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Oil

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Six-Oh-Nine

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« Reply #25 on: June 22, 2015, 10:09:43 AM »
20-50 Lucas racing oil. It's just what we have used for years.


Sent from McIntyre park

 :thumbup:
The Bostick

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Six-Oh-Nine

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« Reply #26 on: June 22, 2015, 10:10:25 AM »
VR1 20/50 for years with 2 changes per season.

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The Bostick

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Flusher

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« Reply #27 on: June 22, 2015, 10:13:04 AM »
20/50... not straight 50.

Hi Bostick,

Why do you like the multi over the straight?

Thanks for the reply.

Joe
« Last Edit: June 22, 2015, 10:15:10 AM by Flusher »
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

Six-Oh-Nine

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« Reply #28 on: June 22, 2015, 10:32:10 AM »
Personally... I really like the Joe Gibbs 15/50 XP4... (BR30 for break-in) really good stuff, about the same price range as the Valvoline (when not on sale), and what I use in all the engines we break-in and dyno... the stuff has crazy amount of additives and what sold me was the fact that even after running the holy living piss out of my gullwing for over 130 miles in a day ar 4k rpm... the oil pressure was still great, oil temp stable, and when I drained it, it still was in good shape and still a bitch to clean off my hands.

BUT...


I've had good luck with:

Brad Penn (though not super conveniant to obtain, I like it as much as the Joe Gibbs as far as conventional oils go and put it in as a tie for #1)

Lucas Racing (Pretty good stuff, takes a beating pretty good and maintains oil pressure. The 10-30 synthetic is a bit spendy, but on the dyno, back-to-back pulls was worth 12hp over the Valvoline and held up much better)
 
Valvoline VR1 20/50 (fairly inexpensive, easy to get, will work fine, but I still like to use additive with it, especially during cam break-in)


My favorite line of all time concerning oil is: "Well... for cam break-in, I used the cheapest oil I could find since I was gonna change it right away... that is what my engine builder told me to do."... said NO engine builder EVER!
The Bostick

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« Reply #29 on: June 22, 2015, 10:39:40 AM »
Hi Bostick,

Why do you like the multi over the straight?

Thanks for the reply.

Joe

At start-up and while the engine is building heat, the lower intial viscosity of the multi-weight will flow much quicker and get where it needs to go much sooner than a straight 50 wt. Then once it gets a bit of heat in it, you still have the viscosity of the heavier weight. It will blow people's mind just how long it takes for oil to get all the way to the rockers when the motor is stone cold and been sitting, even with multi weight... straight 50 is even worse. Unless you're running a lot of bearing clearance, it just is not needed to run such a heavy straight weight oil... most of the stuff I build, I run the clearances in such that with 15/50 or 20/50 it will make about 50psi at idle and 65-75 running hot... to me, any more than that is just robbing power and wearing out the dist gear.
The Bostick

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Flusher

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« Reply #30 on: June 22, 2015, 11:46:05 AM »
Lucas Racing (Pretty good stuff, takes a beating pretty good and maintains oil pressure. The 10-30 synthetic is a bit spendy, but on the dyno, back-to-back pulls was worth 12hp over the Valvoline and held up much better)

Thank you again for the reply.

I have read some literature pertaining to lubricating plain bearings in machinery.  I have not yet been able to fully digest the material, nor have I been able to dedicate sufficient time to the topic.

If I am understanding it correctly, a higher RPM requires or dictates a lighter weight oil.  Any thoughts here?

Do you clearance your engines differently based on intended oil viscosity, meaning one specific build will use only 10/30 vs. another that will use only 15(20)/50?

Thanks again,

Joe
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013


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Flusher

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« Reply #31 on: June 22, 2015, 11:52:03 AM »
Personally... I really like the Joe Gibbs 15/50 XP4... (BR30 for break-in) really good stuff, about the same price range as the Valvoline (when not on sale), and what I use in all the engines we break-in and dyno... the stuff has crazy amount of additives and what sold me was the fact that even after running the holy living piss out of my gullwing for over 130 miles in a day ar 4k rpm... the oil pressure was still great, oil temp stable, and when I drained it, it still was in good shape and still a bitch to clean off my hands.

Have you ever tried http://www.oilextreme.com/breakin.html?  I recorded a David Vizard seminar where he discussed this.  I will post up a transcript of that later.
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

GT Jets

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« Reply #32 on: June 22, 2015, 11:26:34 PM »
I'll play.

In the early 90's, On the marathon rig, which was a naturally aspirated 496 with a 12 quart oil capacity and oil heater/cooler (oil cooled with warm water) we used the old Valvoline Racing 50. The reasoning was simply that it netted the most desirable oil pressure readings (65 psi at 5,500 rpm) and it was part of a sponsorship and was provided gratis.  (Major decision paradigm there lol).

I don't believe in multi viscosity pulls with large deltas. First off, I've never run my crap in freezing temps,  second, I feel the polymers take a little something away from the oil.
I have been using Amsoil in literally everything for about 20 years now, I still try to keep close on the viscosity for the known weather stuff,  but when it coves to the cars,  I run the recomended weights.

I know what my clearances always were in the race stuff and felt comfortable enough making the decisions I did,  but to be totally honest, never had the tech to know for exactly sure. I can tell you, we never had ANY oil related failures.  Rocks the size of small cars were always our downfall. Lol

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray


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