Cam break in suggestions

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75eliminator

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« on: June 13, 2014, 05:16:08 AM »
Hey guy want to no the best way to break a cam in with the boat on the trailer would it be ok to hook the hose up an should the drive be unhooked from the pump first time doing this an don't want to mess anything else up thx for the help


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« Reply #1 on: June 13, 2014, 05:42:24 AM »
disconnect the drive and depending on spring pressures you may need to remove the inner springs

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« Reply #2 on: June 13, 2014, 06:49:49 AM »
It is very important to use an oil with a high zinc contant to give your cam a chance to live a long life.  I use Vavoline 20-50 racing oill with high zinc content.   You can get it at any NAPA store for about $5-6 a quart.  Just for good measure I add a bottle of Lucas Engine Break-In Oil Additive with Zinc-Plus.  Also available from your local NAPA.  No I do not have any interest in NAPA....

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« Reply #3 on: June 13, 2014, 08:44:35 AM »
Delo 400 LE- .13% (1300 ppm) zinc (ZDDP)
https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=339444&docFormat=PDF

Valvoline VR1 20w50- .14% (1400 ppm) zinc (conventional, non-synthetic)
Valvoline VR1 synthetic- .13% (1300 ppm) zinc

Any of these would work fine with an additive for a flat tappet cam break-in.

Its critical to have the motor 'ready to run', IE: static timed, known good carb, valve adjustment to spec., etc... and always disconnect the driveline.

Dan'l

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GT Jets

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« Reply #4 on: June 13, 2014, 09:03:04 AM »
It is very important to use an oil with a high zinc contant to give your cam a chance to live a long life.  I use Vavoline 20-50 racing oill with high zinc content.   You can get it at any NAPA store for about $5-6 a quart.  Just for good measure I add a bottle of Lucas Engine Break-In Oil Additive with Zinc-Plus.  Also available from your local NAPA.  No I do not have any interest in NAPA....

Careful.... There is such a thing as too much of a good thing.

Too much zinc is actually abrasive.

GT

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« Last Edit: June 13, 2014, 10:56:46 AM by GT Jets »
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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Ray

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« Reply #5 on: June 13, 2014, 09:06:51 AM »
Delo 400 LE- .13% (1300 ppm) zinc (ZDDP)
https://cglapps.chevron.com/msdspds/PDSDetailPage.aspx?docDataId=339444&docFormat=PDF

Valvoline VR1 20w50- .14% (1400 ppm) zinc (conventional, non-synthetic)
Valvoline VR1 synthetic- .13% (1300 ppm) zinc

Any of these would work fine with an additive for a flat tappet cam break-in.

Its critical to have the motor 'ready to run', IE: static timed, known good carb, valve adjustment to spec., etc... and always disconnect the driveline.

Dan'l

Synthetics are NOT recommended for beak in. There is a chance the rings will never seat.

I use the cheapest crap I can find (have used the Chevron 30wt value jugs in the past) and add Comp Cams break in additive.

Works killer IMHO.

GT

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75eliminator

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« Reply #6 on: June 13, 2014, 10:09:44 AM »
Ok thx for the help guys I will make sure drive is disconnected an using valvoline 10-30 with comp cam break in oil I'm hoping to have it ready to start by Sunday I will keep ya posted an thx again for the help


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« Reply #7 on: June 13, 2014, 01:17:42 PM »
Heed GT Jets warning, TOO MUCH, can be bad!! There is also a brand of oil out there they are calling "hot rod oil" basically an original ZINC added 10W30 or 40 wt. oil, like they used to sell, but with a $7.00 price. Also like GT said, a low cost oil, with a ZDDP, or "break in"  additive is fine. After your break in time 20-30 minutes, you'll want to drain it and add fresh oil and a new filter anyways, so buying that high dollar stuff is only used for about half an hour.
I also encourage to CONTINUE to add the ZDDP additive in your future oil changes, with a decent quality oil. Because your motor is STILL a flat tappet needing some Zinc, even after it's broken in. Some say you don't have too, but a $6.00 bottle is good insurance against a flat cam lobe or 3.
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« Reply #8 on: June 13, 2014, 11:02:19 PM »
I have to break mine in as well. How important is disconnecting the drive? I really dont want to have to disconnect it since it took a good 3 hours to drop the motor in.


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Ckaz21

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« Reply #9 on: June 13, 2014, 11:02:27 PM »
I have to break mine in as well. How important is disconnecting the drive? I really dont want to have to disconnect it since it took a good 3 hours to drop the motor in.


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GT Jets

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« Reply #10 on: June 13, 2014, 11:06:56 PM »
I have to break mine in as well. How important is disconnecting the drive? I really dont want to have to disconnect it since it took a good 3 hours to drop the motor in.


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What mounts do you have?

Shouldn't take more than about 15 minutes to pull it.
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
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75eliminator

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« Reply #11 on: June 13, 2014, 11:54:25 PM »
Ok cool thank I have the brake in comp oil to add to regular oil got motor painted an put in an installed the heads will finish the rest tomorrow my other question is what can I use or were can I buy a timing pointer that will bolt to a gleenwood motor plate for a 460 an again thank u for all the help


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GeneralLee

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« Reply #12 on: June 14, 2014, 12:08:42 AM »
Jegs...summit maybe local speed shop.




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« Reply #13 on: June 14, 2014, 12:37:24 AM »
I have this set up. Pulling isn't the hard part. Reinstalling the engine is because you have to blindly line the drive shaft splines up in order to drop the motor in. Its a huge pain in the ass.




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« Reply #14 on: June 14, 2014, 06:18:00 AM »
I had driveline hooked up when broke in n fkd my shit up  :banghead: disconnect the driveline take the time now. I just didnt know any better.
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« Reply #15 on: June 14, 2014, 03:03:33 PM »
How so? Did you run water to the pump? Does is mess them up cause there not under a load? All the marine shops I've called said its fine to break them in hooked up as long as you have water going to them.


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« Reply #16 on: June 14, 2014, 03:17:21 PM »
How so? Did you run water to the pump? Does is mess them up cause there not under a load? All the marine shops I've called said its fine to break them in hooked up as long as you have water going to them.


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Just curious what you think having water running into it with a hose is going to do. I have run them dry, but only for under a minute or two at the absolute most.

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
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« Reply #17 on: June 14, 2014, 09:02:54 PM »
That I don't know but I guess one could say the same about running it in the water. I mean is there anything on the jet that's actually water cooled? If all your bearings are greased and tight it shouldn't matter right?


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« Reply #18 on: June 14, 2014, 09:26:43 PM »
That I don't know but I guess one could say the same about running it in the water. I mean is there anything on the jet that's actually water cooled? If all your bearings are greased and tight it shouldn't matter right?


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Technically speaking the packing is water cooled and when the pump is moving water there is a preload on the impelled and the water could be keeping wear ring lubricated if the pump is worn/enough... I guess..

GT

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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #19 on: June 15, 2014, 01:33:01 AM »
Damn I really don't want to have to pull the engine again just to take the driveline out. Here is what berks website says about running on trailer:

 "A Berkeley pump can be run out of the water as it has a greased thrust bearing and lubricated tailshaft bushings. The impeller does not touch the wear ring, but due to the fact that the bottom of the pump is open during trailering the boat, it is best to run water into the pump through the nozzle while running on the trailer. The only issues with running out of the water is that after about 15 to 20 minutes the bowl seal can get hot from lack of cooling and cause seal damage. The packing gland may have to be re-tightened when the boat is used the next time as well."

 


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