Cam recomendations

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2savage4you

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« on: January 16, 2008, 06:23:51 AM »
I need some recomendations on a cam, dont want to much but then again dont want to short change myself either ;)  I kinda like that lopey sound though

What i will be running so far, stock stroke (3.85) with TRW domes 10.21 C/R , a Stealth intake , and most likely a Holley 850 DP carb , heads are  D3VE A2A with 97cc's and will be ported ;D so it will breath like a MOFO >:D  And of course SS valve's.

So whats a good all around cam to run? I would like to buy a cam kit, cam,lifters,springs,locks,retainers, all matching.

And im running a  "A" impeller to :o

Thanks,

2sav


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Ralph Brunt

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« Reply #1 on: January 16, 2008, 06:34:54 AM »
the cam i used in my hondo was pretty good for my application, just for reference brad used it in his boat and i think it turned 48/4900 rpm with an A-impeller i dont have a cam card with me, but iwill be getting the exact same cam for my liberty.

the place i got it will break it in for you for 60 bucks, i think the cam/lifters and break in was 260.00, but i'm not sure ??? maybe he will chime in. when i get back to work i will get you the name of the company, i like the break in thing. sorry for the ramble

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Ralph Brunt

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« Reply #2 on: January 16, 2008, 06:48:39 AM »

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They are all fukin tasty. My long time favorite, "Dirty Dicks -beerjet-
Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!

2savage4you

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« Reply #3 on: January 16, 2008, 07:11:13 AM »
Thanks Ralph. ;D

You just killed two birds with one stone ;D  Cam break in was gonna be my next post but you just covered that for me.

Soooo.......... just let them know what im running and they can give me some options or tell me exactly what i need ;)

2sav


Ralph Brunt

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« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2008, 07:39:12 AM »
now dont get me wrong, i still feel that a cam break in is needed even with them doing it (they told me so) but the risk of losing a cam on normal break in is minimalized (sp) and 60 bucks is cheap insurance ;)
i'm not sure if they know marine applications, ??? what i did was go off an old isky cam i had that i knew ran well, and they refined it for me. and like i said brad turned it 48/4900 with about8.5to1 comp and he has the cam card, he can give you the spec's ;) he ordered me the same cam because i was happy with its performanc. the hondo turned it 52/5300 with the jacuzzi w/j and fresh pump so i think that would put you in the ball park. duh forgot you had the energizer kit so you should see 48/4900

by all means call them and others to see what they have to say
« Last Edit: January 16, 2008, 07:44:51 AM by Ralph Brunt »

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They are all fukin tasty. My long time favorite, "Dirty Dicks -beerjet-
Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!

2savage4you

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« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2008, 07:48:40 AM »
Good info Ralph ;) and thanks again i will be making some calls/email's before i buy anything. I only wanna do it once and time is running out. Parker is coming up fast ;D

2sav

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« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2008, 09:36:26 AM »
im guessing something big and roller that should get you started!!
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« Reply #7 on: January 16, 2008, 09:48:57 AM »
I've posted the same question before.  Picking a cam turned out to be like guessing the number of gumballs in the gumball machine.  Lot of good ideas, but never knowing if it would be "right."  I guess I have another strike because of the size/weight of my boat.  I'm still sitting on the fence for this one.

If anyone has a suggestion -I'm all ears!  As it sits now: 454, 9.0:1 C/R, 4850rpm w/"A", vaccum Q-Jet.  I've got an 800dp waiting to be installed.  Sorry for the thread jack.

original post:  http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1777.25



Thanks
LC

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« Reply #8 on: January 16, 2008, 10:03:52 AM »
I got the cam card sitting here on my desk if youre interested.
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2savage4you

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« Reply #9 on: January 16, 2008, 10:07:12 AM »
I got the cam card sitting here on my desk if youre interested.


I am ;D

2sav

Brad @ SCJB

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« Reply #10 on: January 16, 2008, 10:14:23 AM »
  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
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2savage4you

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« Reply #11 on: January 16, 2008, 10:18:03 AM »
Thanx ;)

2sav

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« Reply #12 on: January 16, 2008, 11:37:27 AM »
Thanx ;)

2sav

That looks like a good cam there for your Application. A little lumpy, but alot of torque still

Ralph Brunt

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« Reply #13 on: January 16, 2008, 11:45:57 AM »
let me give you my engine spec's
466
flat top pistons
d3 heads w/ss  c/j valves home ported
the above cam
roller rockers
torker 2 intake
830 dp
msd rtr dizzy
high flow dynamics stage 1 oil pump
milodon oil pan
comp cams timing chain
clay smith mech fuel pump
nothing special about this eng

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Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!

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« Reply #14 on: January 16, 2008, 12:37:42 PM »
Thanks, i was going to PM you about you'r engine spec's ;)

I am going 060 over with dome's so a little more C/R but i didnt plan it this way.  I think this will work good ;D  I like the fact they will talk to you and build it to your spec's.

2sav

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« Reply #15 on: January 16, 2008, 01:16:56 PM »
forgot to mention that its 0 decked

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They are all fukin tasty. My long time favorite, "Dirty Dicks -beerjet-
Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!

2savage4you

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« Reply #16 on: January 16, 2008, 01:29:27 PM »
forgot to mention that its 0 decked


Well that alone should raise you'r C/R ratio, but with the domes  i cant do that, valve timing would have to be percise ;) and im not that good ;D

2sav

LakesOnly

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« Reply #17 on: January 16, 2008, 03:10:29 PM »
I need some recomendations on a cam, dont want to much but then again dont want to short change myself either ;)  I kinda like that lopey sound though

What i will be running so far, stock stroke (3.85) with TRW domes 10.21 C/R , a Stealth intake , and most likely a Holley 850 DP carb , heads are  D3VE A2A with 97cc's and will be ported ;D so it will breath like a MOFO >:D  And of course SS valve's.

So whats a good all around cam to run? I would like to buy a cam kit, cam,lifters,springs,locks,retainers, all matching.

And im running a  "A" impeller to :o

Thanks,

2sav
While a camshaft is usually the first component to go into your engine, it is often the second-to-last component to be selected.  A camshaft plays a very important role in an engine and can make or break the combo, hp-wise.  Frankly, 2sav, with the number of times that your particular combo has changed I think it would be best for you to absolutely positively acquire all your engine parts for the build--less cam--and then decide on a cam once your cylinder head work is completed.

One more thing, if you are running the .060" over L2443-060's with D3VE heads, your c/r is closer to 10.9:1 and if your block is zero decked c/r jumps to 11.4:1, I don't care what the SPeedPro chart says...it's incorrect.

LO

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2savage4you

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« Reply #18 on: January 17, 2008, 11:46:40 AM »
While a camshaft is usually the first component to go into your engine, it is often the second-to-last component to be selected.  A camshaft plays a very important role in an engine and can make or break the combo, hp-wise.  Frankly, 2sav, with the number of times that your particular combo has changed I think it would be best for you to absolutely positively acquire all your engine parts for the build--less cam--and then decide on a cam once your cylinder head work is completed.

One more thing, if you are running the .060" over L2443-060's with D3VE heads, your c/r is closer to 10.9:1 and if your block is zero decked c/r jumps to 11.4:1, I don't care what the SPeedPro chart says...it's incorrect.

LO




I am glad you chimed in.

 I do have the complete rotating asssembly  and next month it will be going to the machine shop and then assembled. The heads will be done at the same time.  I read an article in Hot Rod magazine about building a Ford performance engine and it said. If you are not sure about what you are doing or looking for dont be shy.  You need to ask questions, EVERYBODY has been at that point where they need to ask a few questions, And that is all im doing ;)

I do appreciate everyone's input and being straight up about it. Thats the only way to be.   Yes my build has changed a bit but im on the right track now ;D atleast i feel good about it now.

One more thing, Thanks for the  real c/r ratio for the speed pro's, thats a bit higher than i thought it would be , will pump gas be an issue now?

Thanks.

2sav

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« Reply #19 on: January 17, 2008, 11:57:51 AM »
I'll trust L/O with his compression estimate. Would be best to mock up the short block and see how deep the pistons are in the hole, because maybe you could just get the deck cut to level it out to keep the compression down.

And the next trick would be to fully polish your chambers to help detonation. Unless you're trying to save the valve job that's on it right now?
This is the last Ford set I did..... oooo shiny
Let's see if L/O can reconize what kind they are lol

SLCKREG

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« Reply #20 on: January 17, 2008, 11:58:35 AM »
I'm at about 11.6 to one with alum heads and can't do pump gas. Again cam is going to effect cyl. pres. From my limited understanding a cam with a narrow lobe sep 108-110  is going to "bleed off some compresion. and one with a wide sep  112-114 is going to "trap" cyl. pres.

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« Reply #21 on: January 17, 2008, 03:41:55 PM »
~11:1 with iron heads is not very workable with pump gas, unless you execute extensive mods in the area of the combustion chamber.  Fortunately, you can mill the dome off your pistons (they are solid dome pistons) so as to reduce compression, but for the amount of money you will ultimately have into them you might as well have bought a better, lighter set of flat tops to start with. You're going about it the hard way, but it can work.

In order to reduce detonation, it is extremely helpful to optimize the effectiveness of the cylinder head's quench pad.  Again, with your chosen pistons, more $ is requried.  Specifically, the stack height of your crank throw + rod C-to-C + piston pin height = 10.286".  The D1VE and/or D9TE block deck height is typically ~10.322".  This is a difference of a whopping .036" + .042" gasket thickness = 0.078" total quench distance.  Can you say "ping?"  ;D  If you must stick with the parts that you have, then my advice is to mill the domes off and deck the block to 10.300." Your compression ratio will then be about 9.6:1 and--in conjunction with the decked block--be much more resistant to detonation...which is something that those 4032-grade aluminum pistons are not particularly fond of.

That's that plan of approach I would take if we were building your engine with those parts.

LO
« Last Edit: January 17, 2008, 03:44:07 PM by LakesOnly »

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Ralph Brunt

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« Reply #22 on: January 17, 2008, 03:54:25 PM »
if memory serves me correct that's you (paul)did to my short block

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« Reply #23 on: January 17, 2008, 04:06:36 PM »
Well here i go again, one step forward and two steps back ;D  So be it! it will be done by june i dont care what gas i have to run >:D

Thanks again Paul, Its nice to get your input on this stuff, really helps.

2sav

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« Reply #24 on: January 22, 2008, 09:18:13 PM »
want a cam? the cam and lifters for the above cam card is for sale....paid $280 for th setup....yours for $100 + shipping
  • Boat #1: 1978 Liberty
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