Msd coil/ pertronix ign no spark

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Bunger

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« on: September 14, 2016, 05:47:50 AM »
Haven't had any issues with ignition in 3 years. A few days ago my elect. Fuel pump was leaking took it off fixed the leak put it back on and reset the regulator and what not. Never crossed my mind that the 5 min I had the pump running I also had power to the coil/ignition. Went to start it yesterday and have no spark. Did I fry the blaster 2 or the pertronix pointless conversion deal in my dizzy? Ohmed out coil had 0.00 on primary side and 5.3k on secondary side If I remember right that's within spec? I'm thinking the coil might have been on its way out because last trip out I was cruising along and thing popped a few times and died. Cranked a few times nothin. Drank a beer cranked a few minutes later and fired right up and ran fine the next day. Anyone have any ideas before I go dropping cash on new coils and ignition modules n al that?


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Bunger

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« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2016, 07:11:00 AM »
I just read this on the pertronix site. Got me thinking it's the coil.


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Bunger

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« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2016, 09:12:33 AM »
Anyone?


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GT Jets

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« Reply #3 on: September 14, 2016, 09:25:09 AM »
With a regular old test light, see if you get a flicker on the negative side of the coil over ground while cranking and a light on the positive side over ground with just the key on.

If you have no flicker while cranking with power to the coil, disconnect the negative wire and see if the negative side sees voltage with the key on,  no voltage =bad coil., if there is voltage, briefly short the negative side of the coil to ground using a jumper wire and a "scratching" motion,  you should see spark. If not,  bad coil.  If the coil sparks, likely a bad module or ballast resistor if equipped.
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

GT Jets

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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2016, 09:32:45 AM »
If you have no power to the coil wroth the key on,  check the ballast resistor or resistor wire, key switch and so on.
You might want to check for power wroth the positive lead off the coil too. If the coil shorted, it could keep voltage low enough not to light the light.

You also want to make sure you have power while cranking as well,  could be a switch trying to take a nap.
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2016, 09:35:12 AM »
Another way to verify the Perronix is to put the test light on a positive power source and hook the light to the wire off the coil negative side (with it removed from the coil),  worth the engine cracking you should get a pretty bright flicker.

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

Bunger

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« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2016, 09:49:03 AM »

Another way to verify the Perronix is to put the test light on a positive power source and hook the light to the wire off the coil negative side (with it removed from the coil),  worth the engine cracking you should get a pretty bright flicker.

GT


Ok I'll try all that. I've got 12.5v at battery and once it goes up to dash through switch back to + of coil I have 11.25v. Over 1v of drop? I read that the coil and module only need 7.5v to fire so I ruleD out low voltage. My first thought was switch because it got wet from some *** in a wake boat  about 3 minutes before it cut out and died the last trip




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GT Jets

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« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2016, 10:00:33 AM »

Ok I'll try all that. I've got 12.5v at battery and once it goes up to dash through switch back to + of coil I have 11.25v. Over 1v of drop? I read that the coil and module only need 7.5v to fire so I ruleD out low voltage. My first thought was switch because it got wet from some *** in a wake boat  about 3 minutes before it cut out and died the last trip




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If power from the switch (I) terminal drops while cranking,  and there isn't a 12v wire coming from the start solenoid,  it will not fire while cranking, but rather when you let off the key,  pretty weird, I've had them blow mufflers out once they fire.

Good alternative for coffee. Lol.
Good luck

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2016, 10:01:29 AM »
And that kind of voltage drop is quite typical.

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

Bunger

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« Reply #9 on: September 14, 2016, 10:04:03 AM »

And that kind of voltage drop is quite typical.

GT

Right on I'll keep messin with it. Thanks for the tips


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Bunger

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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2016, 04:47:03 AM »
Well played spent another couple hours yesterday messin with shit and it's looking like its the pertronix module. Ran gt's tests on the coil all seemed good. According to the pertronix tech there is NO WAY to field test the module. At all lol. Luckily there on my way home from work and they to bring it by and they'll test it and if it's bad hook me up with a new one even though I'm 1 month past the warranty. If this thing ends up not being the problem like baffled.


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stuey93

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« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2016, 07:23:19 PM »
I've heard of some folks running a remote relay to prevent the voltage drop

 


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