Marine cam vs street cam

I know the street cam kit are about $200 cheaper than the marine cam kits. I don’t plan on going crazy with horse power. Will a street cam kit work or do I really need the Marine kit. Wanting to put one in a bbf 460. All stock engine and plan on running headers with edelbrock 750 carb.

Think on it this way , save ur self $200 on a cam or pay $$$ to have it tore back down to pull the junked cam out and pay for another one . Lol I went with a clay smith cam for my 454 check them out


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It's more than street vs. marine.
The duration of the cam will effect reversion.

With dry headers, the sky is the limit.

Water injected, around 240° @ .050" to be safe.

Other factors are-  compression ratio, rpm water starts injecting, intake design, etc. Adjustable valve train is a must.

Several Ford guys on here, know what cams perform well.

Oh, and ditch the Eddy 750 in favor of an 850 Holley, or copy. 460's like 'em

Dan'l

Ok thanks for the advice, I will def install a marine kit. The engine will be mostly stock with over the transom headers. I just need it to run good, don’t need to break any speed records yet. My son and I are building it, be some good time spent together.

Go with a Clay Smith cam, he’s been around jet boats for 40 years. He knows his s—t. 714-523-0530


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I’m being told I need to switch to adjustable valve train on my 460. Do I really need to do that?? I don’t have a machine shop here to do that. Might as well buy new heads that cost a lot.

I’m being told I need to switch to adjustable valve train on my 460. Do I really need to do that?? I don’t have a machine shop here to do that. Might as well buy new heads that cost a lot.

Are you planning on a solid lifter cam?

No I plan on hydraulic lifters. Will I be ok to run regular valve train rather than trying to convert to adjustable??

Did they give you a reason why you need adjustable rockers?

Here are a few options for adjustable valve train, that don't require machine work.

According to the Crane Cams catalog:

The '68-'71 engines are equipped with bottleneck configuration rocker studs.  Our 99768-16 positive locking nuts permit individual valve adjustment (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99768-16).

To conveniently convert non-adjustable pedestal mounted rocker arm cylinder heads to fully adjustable configuration, Crane offers two pushrod guideplate and rocker arm stud conversion kits.  52656-16 for 5/16" pushrod and 35655-16 for 3/8" pushrod.  Both have 7/16" studs (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-52655-16 and https://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Crn-35655-16).

I got home late last night and wasn't able to reference my catalogs and downloading/viewing PDFs on my cellphone is a PITA.

I haven't researched the intricacies of Ford camshafts and cylinder heads the way I have with Mopar and Chevy, so I suggest having LakesOnly (http://highflowdynamics.com) spec you a camshaft and, of course, follow his recommendation for rockers.

The thing I really want to emphasize is: LOSING AN ENGINE FROM BROKEN VALVE TRAIN FRAK'N BLOWS!  As bobjthomson emphasized, it's better to spend the money on peace of mind.  You don't want to lose an entire engine because a $0.99 rocker stud broke.

With that being said, looking through Summit Racing at CompCams Extreme Marine cams, none seem to be what I would call big.  I'm not suggesting any of these cams, just posting for reference only.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-245-5

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-236-4

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-232-4

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-241-5

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-254-5

Since we are talking about a cruiser, I'm going assume the smaller side of the spectrum.  Regardless of which cam you choose, your valve train geometry needs to be checked.  There are a number of physical limitations as to how much cam with a given head assembly.  Let's limit it to just the rocker/push rod for this conversation.

First, the rocker needs to have enough range of motion to accommodate the amount of lobe lift without without binding on the rocker stud.  The Chevy guys would call this a long-slot rocker.

If the block and/or heads have been decked, thinner head gaskets, small base circle cam (regrind), ground valve stems, etc. requires shorter push rods.  Seating the valves deeper in the head might require longer push rods.

For the most part, I subscribe to Mid-Lift rocker arm geometry (http://www.mid-lift.com/INTRO-TECH.htm), and this is where I start.  However, you can manipulate the effective rocker arm ratio by shortening the push rods, either inadvertently or by design.  To see what I mean, watch "More Power Through Improved Rocker Arm Geometry" on YouTube


Adjustable rockers can give you control over lifter preload, but now you can see that if the tolerances are all over the place, adjustable rockers can help.  I do believe that with a mild hydraulic cam, you probably won't need adjustable rockers.  I can't say for sure because I don't know the details of your build.

They told me that my stock non adjustsble rocker bolts would break. But I talked to Comp cam on there tech line and he gave me a marine kit number to use with my stock set up. Kit is ccak34-232-4 I think. It’s nothing big but it should run better than stock and add a little horse power. I’d like to add flat top pistons but I’m not sure which ones to get. I do appreciate your help.

Pick your cam after you know what your compression ratio is, since you are switching to flat tops from relieved pistons.

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I got a hold of Scotty the Mad Porter. He’s got me all set up.