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Nitrous plate question

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69kona

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« Reply #25 on: January 12, 2016, 12:38:00 PM »
Should i change the tank pickups and
Put a bung at the bottom of tank ?


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69kona

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« Reply #26 on: January 12, 2016, 12:44:02 PM »

You should be close with what you have. Might want a smaller fuel jet but that should be safe

Here's a site to help

http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
That's bad ass calculator site ..thanks


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Onthenos

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« Reply #27 on: January 12, 2016, 12:48:47 PM »
Don't know if anyone has said this but rule of thub, retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous.

steves86ta

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« Reply #28 on: January 12, 2016, 12:56:40 PM »
I dont know if your setup is fine or not. But ill share my experiences and why i decided to go bottom feed

My boat has not run right from day one sometimes it was fine, other times it would fall on its face and other weird issues. Finally i started to look into the fuel system more closely. My boat originally had 1/4" pipe pickup tubes and were top feed, with -8an fittings on them. I ran these to valves then to the pump.

After i burned up two pumps, and finally installed a fuel pressure gauge at the dash i learned that i was cavitating the pump. Because of the pickups. Problem persisted when i was below half of a tank.

Finally i decided to put -10 bungs in the bottom of the tank, then run that to my pump. My fuel pressure is much more stable now and consistent. Could be related to your fuel draining back.

I dont know, but i would make sure everytyhing is perfect before spraying it.

My setup is -10 bungs from the bottom of the tanks, to 1/2" pipe valves to a -10 Y fitting to the fuel pump, from the fuel pump its -8 to a -8 Y fitting, then from the fitting its -8 to my Carb pressure regulator and -4 to the Nitrous pressure regulator, -6 to the carb from the regulator, -4 to the solenoid.

my fuel pressure is alway perfect and have not had any issues since going bottom feed
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69kona

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« Reply #29 on: January 12, 2016, 12:58:41 PM »
Steves86ta what kind of rpm increase did u see with your tune?


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steves86ta

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« Reply #30 on: January 12, 2016, 12:59:25 PM »
Steves86ta what kind of rpm increase did u see with your tune?


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im getting close to 1300 rpm with a 150
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« Reply #31 on: January 12, 2016, 01:46:35 PM »
How long are the lines from the solenoid to the plate?
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69kona

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« Reply #32 on: January 12, 2016, 02:25:37 PM »
Ok I put a 140 gph pump now I'm get good fuel pressure and no delay in fuel delivery 😀
So now what do I need to get to retard my ignition  I have is a 6al MSD box what should I get for a timing box that will retard my timing ...


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69kona

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« Reply #33 on: January 12, 2016, 02:31:43 PM »

How long are the lines from the solenoid to the plate?
10inchs from solenoid to base plate


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steves86ta

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« Reply #34 on: January 12, 2016, 02:38:24 PM »
Ok I put a 140 gph pump now I'm get good fuel pressure and no delay in fuel delivery 😀
So now what do I need to get to retard my ignition  I have is a 6al MSD box what should I get for a timing box that will retard my timing ...


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i would just re-time it and drop 6 degrees out but you can also go with a box like this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8680?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5dK0BRCr49qDzILe74UBEiQA_6gA-po7c-3r3ksx5d7-riJASc8G2oRJffFcmWEOVMmZyKEaAvN38P8HAQ
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69kona

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« Reply #35 on: January 12, 2016, 02:47:40 PM »
Right now I'm at 32* at 3k so I need to be around 26 degrees ? Sorry so many questions ...


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« Reply #36 on: January 12, 2016, 03:00:03 PM »
Right now I'm at 32* at 3k so I need to be around 26 degrees ? Sorry so many questions ...


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26 should be safe for you. Not optimal, but safe
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69kona

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« Reply #37 on: January 12, 2016, 03:04:17 PM »
Ok anything else i may be overlooking ?
Lol . I know the motor will handle it but I'm scared to do some wrong
Timing 26*
Fuel pressure 6.5 psi
Bottle pressure ?
??



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steves86ta

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« Reply #38 on: January 12, 2016, 03:14:20 PM »
Ok anything else i may be overlooking ?
Lol . I know the motor will handle it but I'm scared to do some wrong
Timing 26*
Fuel pressure 6.5 psi
Bottle pressure ?
??



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shoot to get 900 psi of bottle pressure. You will need to heat the bottle somehow to get to the 900 mark.

I do not have a heater in my boat, and i can usually maintain 800 psi or so. Atleast for a pass or two

HEres what i do when its cold like it is right now
Ill pull the bottle out the night before and leave it in the house at night. When i get up to shower, it goes in the shower with me (weird i know) once im done showering. Ill leave it in the shower and crank up the hot water.

By the time im dressed the bottle is usually close to 100 degrees (98 this last saturday) Ill put it in the truck and keep the heater on the whole way to the lake (abotu an hour for me) and its usually still 90 degrees or so. Gives me anywhere from 800-950 psi. Nitrous Oxide is a gas, but once it is pressurized above 750 it turns into a liquid and this is what you want. But shoot for 900 PSI thats what all your jetting is usually at

Heres a link to a chart that will give you an idea of pressure to temperature. I verify temperature with an IR Temp gun

http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/01/16/ask-away-optimizing-nitrous-system-proper-bottle-pressure/
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« Reply #39 on: January 12, 2016, 03:27:14 PM »
Are u gonna be at Elsinore this weekend?


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« Reply #40 on: January 12, 2016, 03:27:47 PM »
Are u gonna be at Elsinore this weekend?


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trying to lol
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« Reply #41 on: January 12, 2016, 03:43:53 PM »
In a race car we test the Nitrous while parked.  Rev engine up about 3k rpm and hit the micro switch. A exspierenced nitrous guy can tell if it's lean or rich by the way the engine revs up. Slow is rich, real fast is lean and I'm the middle is a base line. Reading the plugs is key. I use a ear scope deal I bought from walmart. Has a light and all lol. Like 20.00

Onthenos

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« Reply #42 on: January 12, 2016, 03:44:42 PM »
Ohhh not sure it be a good idea in a boat being the Jet is hooked up still. 

steves86ta

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« Reply #43 on: January 12, 2016, 03:53:08 PM »
i LOVE my wideband. Ive never been good at reading plugs and probably never will be. The wideband tells me exactly whats goin on

But when i do check plugs. I always cut the threads off and look at all the porcelain.

Also one other thing that came to mind. Are you running projected tip plugs? Dont!
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69kona

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« Reply #44 on: January 12, 2016, 04:02:33 PM »
So what plugs to run ...


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« Reply #45 on: January 12, 2016, 04:21:35 PM »
I dint really know. Google should help
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« Reply #46 on: January 12, 2016, 04:24:11 PM »
Just curious maybe i missed it.. what engine is this?? 26 degrees of total timing sounds like alot of retard for a 100 shot.. imho..

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« Reply #47 on: January 12, 2016, 04:25:14 PM »
Just curious maybe i missed it.. what engine is this?? 26 degrees of total timing sounds like alot of retard for a 100 shot.. imho..

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I agree. But it's safe until he knows evening is running right

For example I'm at 38 degrees na and 34 on bottle
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« Reply #48 on: January 12, 2016, 04:38:23 PM »
I agree. But it's safe until he knows evening is running right

For example I'm at 38 degrees na and 34 on bottle
fair enough,,better to error on the safe side then the meltdown side.. i ran 36 in my old 496 street car, and 30 when i wacked it with 200...

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« Reply #49 on: January 12, 2016, 05:14:29 PM »
For a 100 shot I would pull 4 degrees total on the shot.
As for an ignition box, I would go with the digital 6. Way better than having to add a 200 dollar retard box and your already 2/3 of the way to a digital 6 price wise.


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