rebuild time

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Bunger

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« Reply #100 on: August 27, 2015, 01:27:04 PM »

I'm sure someone will chine in on this. I can't seem to find the article or pictures right now. There is a thread somewhere here in the board that shows pictures and dimensions.

What it boils down to is drilling and tapping the front and/or rear of the heads and oil pan to return excess oil into the pan.

I did it on mine.


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SSpeeDEMONSS

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« Reply #101 on: August 27, 2015, 02:04:59 PM »
Basically it just helps drain oil from the top of the heads?

Garrett

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« Reply #102 on: August 27, 2015, 09:36:18 PM »
Basically it just helps drain oil from the top of the heads?

Garrett

Yeah, takes oil from the heads straight back to the pan.

Where do you drill and tap them?

Garrett

This is post # 1824 of the "What did you do to your boat today?" thread. Bunger posted a pic of the Olds article
with the dimensions of the drain-back holes in the heads.


Bunger

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« Reply #103 on: August 27, 2015, 09:46:37 PM »

Yeah, takes oil from the heads straight back to the pan.

This is post # 1824 of the "What did you do to your boat today?" thread. Bunger posted a pic of the Olds article
with the dimensions of the drain-back holes in the heads.



I went through all my old posts and couldn't remember where I posted it haha thanks for finding it. I used those measurements and it was perfect. Kinda scary drilling into your heads lol


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GT Jets

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« Reply #104 on: August 27, 2015, 10:34:34 PM »
Running really high quality valve cover gaskets with non vented covers and a vacuum pump to an oil separator works too....   :thumbup:

Hey, it's only money, more importantly, not mine...  :sly:

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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« Reply #105 on: August 28, 2015, 06:45:25 AM »
Running really high quality valve cover gaskets with non vented covers and a vacuum pump to an oil separator works too....   :thumbup:

Hey, it's only money, more importantly, not mine...  :sly:

GT

Just for chits and giggles, what would the vacuum pump and oil separator run?

Garrett

GT Jets

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« Reply #106 on: August 28, 2015, 07:17:57 AM »
Probably do it for just under $1,500. That's with an new components of course.

GT

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« Reply #107 on: August 28, 2015, 07:20:12 AM »
V pump runs from 800 to 1500 for a complete kit.  Just know what you are doing with the vacuum pump.  To much all the time is bad news for bearings you will eliminate the oil mist.  I would say no more the 6 inches for running around and if you would like to make a pass 12 inches would not hurt you.
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« Reply #108 on: August 28, 2015, 08:28:41 AM »
I take it is adjustable? Can it be adjusted on the fly? Sorry for all the questions, just learning new stuff over here.

Garrett

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« Reply #109 on: August 28, 2015, 08:32:30 AM »
Depends on how you set it up. You do have to run a relief valve. But I have had great info from Bostick and set mine up with his help and can adjust on the fly.


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« Reply #110 on: August 28, 2015, 09:00:55 AM »
Low tension rings and pistons with the appropriate ring grooves are also required for any performance gains to realized.

The above has performance gains in and of itself, but the effect is multiplied with a vacuum pump.

Keep in mind that pulling vacuum on the crank case requires energy.  Just connecting a vacuum pump to a stock engine could net less horsepower.  Jim's engine is built to take advantage of a vacuum system.
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« Reply #111 on: August 28, 2015, 09:36:55 AM »
Low tension rings and pistons with the appropriate ring grooves are also required for any performance gains to realized.

The above has performance gains in and of itself, but the effect is multiplied with a vacuum pump.

Keep in mind that pulling vacuum on the crank case requires energy.  Just connecting a vacuum pump to a stock engine could net less horsepower.  Jim's engine is built to take advantage of a vacuum system.

I was bringing it up for the simple idea of gaining oil return and crankcase pressure control. 

The performance gains would be keeping oil on the pan. Lol

GT

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« Reply #112 on: August 28, 2015, 09:40:48 AM »
I was bringing it up for the simple idea of gaining oil return and crankcase pressure control. 

The performance gains would be keeping oil on the pan. Lol

GT

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  I have a crappy Valve cover right now and it would leak I think we may have warped it when we did some welding.  No longer leaks with the vacuum pump.
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« Reply #113 on: August 28, 2015, 12:20:17 PM »

3. When I take a Stoll to pirates cove I'm pushing oil out passed the breathers and out of the dipstick (excessive blow by, rings shot?)?


Are you still running that pan evac system?

Wouldn't this act similar to a vacuum pump system?
Does it help seal the rings at all?
Or does it just help vent pressure from the crankcase?


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« Reply #114 on: August 28, 2015, 12:23:37 PM »

Are you still running that pan evac system?

Wouldn't this act similar to a vacuum pump system?
Does it help seal the rings at all?
Or does it just help vent pressure from the crankcase?
. If you had a good sealed motor you could max out at 3 inches with a pan evac. But most or around 2" vac at best.


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« Reply #115 on: August 28, 2015, 12:34:44 PM »
Are you still running that pan evac system?

Wouldn't this act similar to a vacuum pump system?
Does it help seal the rings at all?
Or does it just help vent pressure from the crankcase?

Yeah, but the breathers that came in the kit suck. Cause when I start doing passes they leak more oil then the valve cover does haha.
 I want to weld an fittings to the covers to eliminate the breather but just haven't done it.

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« Reply #116 on: August 28, 2015, 12:49:02 PM »
just throwing this out there how hard would it be to convert from olds to bbc? i think we have enough spare parts laying around to do it.

So are you regretting not taking this option?  ;D

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« Reply #117 on: August 28, 2015, 12:55:56 PM »
Honestly no lol I like being the odd ball boat out there  kicking ass. This motor may be having its problems but not 100% its fault its me flat footing it every chance I get. I like it when people come up to me tell me this thing runs hard. Then they notice it has an Oldsmobile then they look at the pump and see it a jacuzzi and they get even more thrown off 😂
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« Reply #118 on: August 28, 2015, 12:58:09 PM »
And I just realized I have a bad lifter 😬
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« Reply #119 on: August 28, 2015, 01:13:53 PM »
Honestly no lol I like being the odd ball boat out there  kicking ass. This motor may be having its problems but not 100% its fault its me flat footing it every chance I get. I like it when people come up to me tell me this thing runs hard. Then they notice it has an Oldsmobile then they look at the pump and see it a jacuzzi and they get even more thrown off

It is cool to be different. But there is usually a reason it's different.  ;D
You got to have a tender foot with an Olds. Give the oil time to get back to the pan.
I stayed on the throttle too long one time and had oil catch fire on the headers.

Have you done a leak-down test yet?

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« Reply #120 on: August 28, 2015, 01:24:52 PM »
I almost had that happen 2 weeks ago 😅 I heard something go ding behind me it was the breather fell out of the valve cover at full throttle. That millisecond the header was covered in oil and bubbling. I shut it down, got a wet rag and started wiping down the headers.

I tried to I couldn't even build pressure cylinder 5 was pushing air out of the header so I rotated it 180 then it was pushing threw the intake
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« Reply #121 on: August 28, 2015, 02:58:57 PM »
I tried to I couldn't even build pressure cylinder 5 was pushing air out of the header so I rotated it 180 then it was pushing threw the intake

Needs to be at TDC between the compression and power strokes with the engine warm.
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« Reply #122 on: August 29, 2015, 12:03:47 AM »
I don't think I perform the normal leak down test I block off every outlet and fill the block and heads with 15 psi. I've always done it this way, how I found out about the last head gasket. This time it didn't even build pressure and pushed air out #5
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