Valve Lash

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Brad @ SCJB

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« on: October 02, 2011, 10:18:52 AM »
Ive got a ClaySmith 454 Solid Flat cam.......cant find my cam card, what should i set it to?
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BIG JOHNSON

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« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2011, 10:50:09 AM »
I'd call up Striegel and ask him on Monday..
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Brad @ SCJB

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« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2011, 12:26:45 PM »
I'd call up Striegel and ask him on Monday..

thanks, but im trying to get her running today, not tomorrow.

after some searching, it should be at 26
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obnoxious001

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« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2011, 03:10:12 PM »
thanks, but im trying to get her running today, not tomorrow.

after some searching, it should be at 26

I would guess you have already lashed them at this point,, but I would put an unknown flat tappet mechanical cam at .024" int and .026" exh.  It's fairly common to allow .002" extra on the exhaust, but I would think your .026" on both should run fine.

Brad @ SCJB

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« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2011, 11:35:36 PM »
thanks obnoxious. Thats what i was told as well by Enginedoc.

Whats the measurement difference for setting hot vs cold? I am drawing a blank on it. i normally set them cold then double check it when its hot. i think it was -.004 ?

the heads are 990's
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obnoxious001

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« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2011, 11:59:51 PM »
thanks obnoxious. Thats what i was told as well by Enginedoc.

Whats the measurement difference for setting hot vs cold? I am drawing a blank on it. i normally set them cold then double check it when its hot. i think it was -.004 ?

the heads are 990's

I don't know that the iron heads will grow as much as aluminum,, so you may only need .002".  I think the most important part of valve lash is keeping them even across all 8 cylinders, and checking frequently enough to know if a valve may be a problem in the valve train.

IRRebel

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« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2011, 12:22:47 AM »
I don't know that the iron heads will grow as much as aluminum,, so you may only need .002".  I think the most important part of valve lash is keeping them even across all 8 cylinders, and checking frequently enough to know if a valve may be a problem in the valve train.

Mine are Ford, so might not apply, but Comp said .022" and .024" cold on their solid flat. Hot was .002" under that, but I can't imagine why anyone would check a boat hot. But the numbers are right in where I was always told as well. 

Important thing is to check them OFTEN, even well after break in and forever because of the clattering and harmonics they WILL loosen rocker arm nuts all on their own, particularly roller rockers. Even if YOU tighten them Bam Bam! I know you know this, just laying it out there for the other guys that might try it.

Why are you runing a solid in the Southwind anyway? I'm sure theres a good reason, and I probably would try it as well until passengers started telling me I must have a big hornets nest under the engine cover.......

Ray
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting 'Holy Shit what a ride!"---Crewcheif22 AKA Keith

Brad @ SCJB

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« Reply #7 on: October 03, 2011, 12:37:35 AM »
Ray, I do know to check them often. I run a solid roller in the race boat and go through them sometimes twice a day......and go through them once a weekend on the southwind....maybe more if they are coming lose. I havent had them come loose on the southwind since I put the crane golds in there.  :thumbup: the stud girdle on the race boat helps keep them in check.

i run a solid on the southwind because its what came with the package deal when i got the heads from Brock. The 990's were set up (springs n all) by claysmith for the solid cam..it was a combo a customer of his ordered but then backed out....then i came in and bought it. ....so I just stuck with it. yeah, its a PITA to have to go through lifters on a purely recreational roost thrower, but it works for now.

btw - checking them hot is the correct way to do it. try doin it between heats while reaching around hot headers. good fuckin times right there buddy.  :banghead:
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IRRebel

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« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2011, 01:15:55 AM »
Ray, I do know to check them often. I run a solid roller in the race boat and go through them sometimes twice a day......and go through them once a weekend on the southwind....maybe more if they are coming lose. I havent had them come loose on the southwind since I put the crane golds in there.  :thumbup: the stud girdle on the race boat helps keep them in check.

i run a solid on the southwind because its what came with the package deal when i got the heads from Brock. The 990's were set up (springs n all) by claysmith for the solid cam..it was a combo a customer of his ordered but then backed out....then i came in and bought it. ....so I just stuck with it. yeah, its a PITA to have to go through lifters on a purely recreational roost thrower, but it works for now.

btw - checking them hot is the correct way to do it. try doin it between heats while reaching around hot headers. good fuckin times right there buddy.  :banghead:

LOL! I damn sure that's fun! And no, I don't wanna ever do it on dry headers! I got probably a fraction of the header burns you have over more trivial and stoopid stuff, thank you very much bro!

Yeah, traditionally, HOT is how you're supposed to do it, but with manufacturing techniques and tolerances we have today, I don't know if that holds as much water these days, it might, but something a cam manufacturer would have to address.

ON the Race Boat, you have no choice, but you're on your own there! LOL!

Ray
"Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways totally worn out shouting 'Holy Shit what a ride!"---Crewcheif22 AKA Keith

Brad @ SCJB

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« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2011, 01:47:07 AM »
Yeah, traditionally, HOT is how you're supposed to do it, but with manufacturing techniques and tolerances we have today, I don't know if that holds as much water these days, it might, but something a cam manufacturer would have to address.

that might hold some water on a modern motor made within the past few years, but you need to realize our motors are based off a design that came into concept before most of us were born.

either way a 20 minute check is worth avoiding a costly bill if it decides to grande because something went wacky.
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simidan

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« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2011, 05:32:59 AM »
What adjustment are you referring to Brad? Is it the rocker arms?
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Brad @ SCJB

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« Reply #11 on: October 03, 2011, 05:34:52 AM »
What adjustment are you referring to Brad? Is it the rocker arms?

yes.
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simidan

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« Reply #12 on: October 03, 2011, 05:36:02 AM »
Thanks. Not sure if mine are adjustable. I should proly look into that. :o
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« Reply #13 on: October 20, 2011, 03:37:58 PM »
Guys, I was told years ago by either Joe Mondello...or maybe Bob Joehnck to use this procedure to adjust valves on any kind of lumpy cam w/lotsa overlap / lobe centers;

Adjust intakes when exhaust in just starting to open.  Adjust exhaust when intake is just starting to close. That way you're getting the heel of the cam w/ no ramp...on the way to the nose. I had it scribed on the inside of the V/C....for those quick in-between round thrashes.

'Perm

 


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