Swapping small block for big block?

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« on: January 24, 2008, 06:47:14 PM »
 Have any of you guys swapped a small block for a big block chevy?  I'm interested in problems you may have encountered.  What's the weight difference.  How about dimensions?  Seems to me, the mounting points are the same dimensions, right?  Big blocks are wider and longer by 4-5 inches?  I bought a BBC and planned to build it with my 12 yr old son (and a good machine shop).  My goal, is a blown 6-700 hp BB. The boat I have is a 1988 16ft Tahiti w/sbc and Berk 12je.  I planned on a couple year build, then buy a different hull to put it in. But I was thinking, why couldn't I put it into the Tahiti?  Any suggestions? Certainly, you Cali guys have been there and done that. Any input?
« Last Edit: January 24, 2008, 06:55:32 PM by R/C-PILOT »
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco


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« Reply #1 on: January 24, 2008, 06:56:14 PM »
Sell me that boat the way it is and find a bigger hull  :)  That is a sweet deal there!
~Greg
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« Reply #2 on: January 24, 2008, 07:46:55 PM »
Sell me that boat the way it is and find a bigger hull  :)  That is a sweet deal there!
Boat is to sweet to sell.
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #3 on: January 24, 2008, 07:48:42 PM »
def a very nice boat :)
BEAUTY IS ONLY A LIGHT SWITCH AWAY
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« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2008, 08:04:00 PM »
I'll  take it the way it sits ;D
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BBC, 12JG

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« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2008, 08:05:51 PM »
I got first dibs!!!   :D ;) ;D  I'll be in Kansas City this Aug. so if you change your mind, I'll drop by and take it off your hands.
~Greg
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« Reply #6 on: January 24, 2008, 09:10:33 PM »
That is the nicest looking 16' jet boat I have ever seen.  :o

The SBC and the BBC use the same rear engine mount. You shouldn't need to move the rear engine mounts feet on the stringers. The front mounts are very similar but I've never had a chance to actually check to see if they're exactly the same. I'm guessing the weight shouldn't be more than a 100 pounds difference.

I"m guessing your Tahiti has 1/4 stringers, if it does I wouldn't put a blown BBC with 600 -700 HP in it.

Build a nice 383 stroker and call it a day. It can be set-up to run real well, won't stress out your hull like a blown BBC, and IMO a cooler boat. Good luck!
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« Reply #7 on: January 24, 2008, 09:13:25 PM »
Build a nice 383 stroker and call it a day. It can be set-up to run real well, won't stress out your hull like a blown BBC, and IMO a cooler boat. Good luck!

Best advice so far. You can get 425-450 HP out of a reliable 383. All day long
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« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2008, 04:37:53 AM »
The boat has full length stringers.  Sure would look sweet with a blower back there.

« Last Edit: January 25, 2008, 04:46:26 AM by R/C-PILOT »
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #9 on: January 25, 2008, 05:10:31 AM »
Yup rear mounts are the same. Get front ones on E-bay. Either Glenwood or Harmon Marine. Then you need headers, distributors are the same. Pretty much not that big deal of a swap. I went from Ford engine mounts (bought my boat w/o engine) and swapped it over to a BBC.
  T.J.

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« Reply #10 on: January 25, 2008, 05:39:46 AM »
I will be putting a spam thread on here shortly. It will be Everything for a jet boat BBC, and possibly sell a core motor as well

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« Reply #11 on: January 25, 2008, 08:33:57 AM »
That is the nicest looking 16' jet boat I have ever seen.  :o  ...

Second nicest, I forgot about the 16' jet boat that Josh at JBP has... it's still a beutifull boat.

The boat has full length stringers.  Sure would look sweet with a blower back there.

Then my guess is you can put pretty much anything you want in there. But you can still put a blower on a small block and get plenty of HP.
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« Reply #12 on: January 25, 2008, 08:44:49 AM »
I agree with the 383 idea. Actually looking at one myself. TandLengines.com has some pre balanced, checked and machined stroker kits for Chevy's. They're ready to go out of the box if you want to assemble it yourself. Prices are also very reasonable. These guys are absolute professionals they have a long list of NASCAR teams and drivers for clientèle. Definitely worth a look and a call. If nothing else you'll come out of it with a whole lot of ideas and a better understanding of the advantages of the 383.

Here are their kits for the 383, or you can have them complete an engine for you starting around $3200 for that price you can expect a solid 400HP and let them know you're planning on a blower motor so they can supply the right equipment.

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« Reply #13 on: January 25, 2008, 10:11:29 AM »
R/C we have succesfully run/built/and owned multiple Small block boats over the years and NEVER been unhappy with the out come Obviously not a good power plant for a 23 ft Sleekcraft but Sbc's and Sbf's are fun to build easy to work on and make good power Tom

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« Reply #14 on: January 25, 2008, 10:24:07 AM »
Alway's good to be re-inforced by the pro's Tom...
P.S. T&L engines offers a 2 year 24,000 mile warranty with every engine they sell.

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« Reply #15 on: January 25, 2008, 12:16:24 PM »
R/C we have succesfully run/built/and owned multiple Small block boats over the years and NEVER been unhappy with the out come Obviously not a good power plant for a 23 ft Sleekcraft but Sbc's and Sbf's are fun to build easy to work on and make good power Tom

Tom, the problem is getting certain parts for the SBC.  When I was looking for thru-transom headers, a good set was almost as much as I paid for the boat. You sure as heck can't find a decent set used.  Their are a million BBC parts out there, new and used.  Just more out there to choose from.  I decided I wouldn't skimp on the build and by the time I would finish this motor, I would see about putting it in the Tahiti or another hull.  Looking at the boat forums, their are a bunch of good deals out there.  Besides, I'd have a blast coming out to California to get another jet or v-drive hull.
R/C

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« Reply #16 on: January 25, 2008, 12:22:48 PM »
Sounds like a good time, however I just so happen to have access to some small block parts you may find yourself interested in. Thru transom exhaust logs, motor mounts, etc. If your dead set on headers ask Tom he seems to have a good working relationship with Rewarder. I have had 2 sets of headers done by Jim and family. Great people, reasonable pricing. Headers are inherently expensive however the last time I spoke with Jim I drove down to his shop on a sunday for a custom set of headers and he seemed to be in a place mentally where he is more out to see people having fun and enjoying their toys (as he does) than he was with making outrageous profits. He gave me very good pricing and he will be my header source in all my future projects.

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« Reply #17 on: January 25, 2008, 03:28:34 PM »
Definitely would want thru-hull headers.  I've got polished logs now. Tom had a pair of decent over transom headers a while back, but I didn't want that much noise, nor would i want to chop up my cockpit cover. Undone, I'll keep you in mind when I decide what direction I go. SBC or BBC.
R/C

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« Reply #18 on: January 25, 2008, 05:30:49 PM »
Tom at Jet boat performance is your man for the rewarder headers. But I will keep an eye out for you. I love small blocks. Had all big blocks until 4 months ago. Now my 600WHP F250 w/460 is gone, 454 conservative 550HP 18' jet boat is gone, now all I have is a 354 Hemi and 350 Chevy, and a bunch of blocks lying around. My next planned project is already in the works and will absolutely be a small block.

Like Tom was saying, he's been very successful with small blocks, and had some good times with one screaming SBC jet. (literally 7000RPMs w/ a 6-71 huffer up top 10.5:1 compression).

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« Reply #19 on: January 25, 2008, 09:44:24 PM »
I certainly would consider a small block, but again, one of the major costs of a SBC is the 3K$ headers.  For a newbe like me, the SBC flies.  Just want the most of what I do or build.  BBC starts out at more HP than what I have.  I've always wanted a blown motor.  I'd very much like to build a BBC blower motor, then find a hull for it.  I would just keep the Tahiti and buy a new hull.
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #20 on: January 26, 2008, 10:47:41 AM »
$3k? You definitely need to call Rewarder, on a cold call basis I'm pretty sure he can at cut that in half. unless you're talking about an IMCO system or something. The expensive ones are for a 460...

http://www.rewarderheaders.com/search_result.asp?CATEGORY=ALL&MANUFACTURER=Thru-Transom&DESCRIPTION=&PRODUCT_ID=

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« Reply #21 on: January 26, 2008, 04:59:07 PM »
Undone, I was talking about the Lightening's that CP sells. Their awful proud of them bad boys at $3200. I know by their description, their serious quality but the price still kills me.  I guess, when I'm ready, I'll be taking a look and see what's available at that time.  I already have the BBC and still plan to build it with my 12yr old son.  Their was a guy on HotBoat, went by Billet, lived in MN or MI.  He had the same 16ft hull (older version 76ish) that had a bigblock from the factory. We compared a few notes back then, but I'd love to get back ahold of him now. I haven't seen him on any other boards.
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #22 on: January 26, 2008, 05:03:14 PM »
Second nicest, I forgot about the 16' jet boat that Josh at JBP has... it's still a beutifull boat.

Then my guess is you can put pretty much anything you want in there. But you can still put a blower on a small block and get plenty of HP.
Have ya got a couple of pictures of Josh's boat? Or any other 16 footers?
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #23 on: January 26, 2008, 07:09:41 PM »
Have ya got a couple of pictures of Josh's boat? Or any other 16 footers?

http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=1784.0
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« Reply #24 on: January 26, 2008, 08:16:24 PM »
R/C

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« Reply #25 on: January 27, 2008, 11:35:42 AM »
To aid in your header decision process. It is my understanding that all the "Big Boy" race teams are either making their own or having Rewarder do theirs... I met a guy who has lightnings at, if you ask me they have a funny sound to them. Kinda of a hollow log knocking sound. They're on a Baja offshore with a blown 454. Just my ear though, and I'm legally deaf.

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« Reply #26 on: January 27, 2008, 07:43:03 PM »
do one like this ;Dhttp://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/553864442.html

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« Reply #27 on: January 27, 2008, 07:49:46 PM »
do one like this ;Dhttp://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/553864442.html

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/553864442.html  that should work better.  :)
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« Reply #28 on: January 27, 2008, 08:02:05 PM »
R/C the only thing thats hard to get for small blocks are thru hull headers ,personally I'd go with polished center rize anyhow for that application (I'm running 600 + hp thru EMI's) Here two 18' foot boat we rigged in the early 2k's both ran real well ! the dark blue boat had a high miles motor out of a "Burb"  Heck the White water guys are gettin huge ##'s out of sbc's Tom






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« Reply #29 on: January 27, 2008, 08:29:39 PM »
Yeah, maybe the SBC is the way to go.  Heck, I don't know.  I've got time I guess, was planning the build over a couple years anyway.  That craigs listing looked good. Tom, you make sense, as usual. However, because I plan on doing this 1 time, I think I'll probably be going with the BBC that I already have.  I think if I decided to sell it, the BBC would probably be worth more and be more desirable, than  a SBC.  I'll deal with the cost of headers, when/if I get that far.
R/C

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« Reply #30 on: January 27, 2008, 10:54:24 PM »

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« Reply #31 on: January 28, 2008, 06:51:05 PM »
Here's a little small block enticement.

http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=9115630

Man, is that cool sounding or what?  No other sound like a underdriven blown motor.  AmatoSanger's short video was the one that made me want a blown motor.   Now thats cool.
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #32 on: January 29, 2008, 06:20:25 AM »
 Been doing some thinking...  Tom, Greg, Undone, I think I've seen the light.  Looked at some of the goods that T&L Engine Development had to offer and some others.  Weight difference between BB & SB is approximately 175lbs.  Thats quite a bit. 408 stroker motor at 510hp and 500 lbs torque, WOW.
R/C

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« Reply #33 on: January 29, 2008, 10:30:45 AM »
Don't forget the two year warranty. And they're only $4k complete. If you wanna get real crazy go check out the 4 cylinder chevy ecotec 2.0 supercharged. boost it up a lot and throw that in your boat. Weight savings then is approximately 7-800 pounds. Ecotec weighs 185.

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« Reply #34 on: January 29, 2008, 12:29:21 PM »
You could always go with a Mazda RX-7 3 rotor Rotary turbo motor.
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« Reply #35 on: January 29, 2008, 07:10:58 PM »
Greg, no pretend Porsche motors for me.  I was really diggin that 408 stroker from T&L.  That bad boy would be cool. 
R/C

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« Reply #36 on: January 29, 2008, 08:21:00 PM »
Josh's 408 windsor stroker makes ungodly HP and pulls/leaves harder than most Big block boats I've been in Tom

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« Reply #37 on: January 29, 2008, 08:37:15 PM »
You could always go with a Mazda RX-7 3 rotor Rotary turbo motor.

Good luck tuning that , unless you are a rotary specialist. I talked to multiple rotary shops and they all say it is a bitch to get the 20B to run right.
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« Reply #38 on: January 29, 2008, 08:54:18 PM »
Good luck tuning that , unless you are a rotary specialist. I talked to multiple rotary shops and they all say it is a bitch to get the 20B to run right.

These guys must be doing it right.





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« Last Edit: January 29, 2008, 08:56:41 PM by GAWnCA »
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« Reply #39 on: January 29, 2008, 09:54:35 PM »
don't waste your money trying to get something that specialized done.

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« Reply #40 on: January 29, 2008, 10:29:55 PM »
don't waste your money trying to get something that specialized done.

Would be sort of humbling to have a 3 rotor motor blow a BBC or BBF supercharged motor away!   >:D
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« Reply #41 on: January 30, 2008, 07:51:44 AM »
not really considering the cost of that massive turbo and it's tuning... Not to mention the cost of the 3 rotor itself... I don't know how much they are but I'm sure you could build a mean V8 with that money and still have some left over.

As for the ecotech, someone offered one yesterday. I dunno yet, and they're cheap parts and all are cheap. They're also mostly forged components and able to handle 20lbs of boost flawlessly. At least thats what the engine builder down the street told me. All his internals were stock, minus some flow benching/work on the heads and at 20PSI she's pulling 500HP and 380lb/ft on pump gas. Not bad for a 185 pound package. Stock supercharger too.

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« Reply #42 on: January 30, 2008, 11:11:44 AM »
not really considering the cost of that massive turbo and it's tuning... Not to mention the cost of the 3 rotor itself... I don't know how much they are but I'm sure you could build a mean V8 with that money and still have some left over.

As for the ecotech, someone offered one yesterday. I dunno yet, and they're cheap parts and all are cheap. They're also mostly forged components and able to handle 20lbs of boost flawlessly. At least thats what the engine builder down the street told me. All his internals were stock, minus some flow benching/work on the heads and at 20PSI she's pulling 500HP and 380lb/ft on pump gas. Not bad for a 185 pound package. Stock supercharger too.

Oh well, I just thought it was very cool to see a small motor like that put out like it does.  The turbo can be bought for around $1300.  Haven't located or looked for the motor, so I don't know what they go for.
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« Reply #43 on: January 30, 2008, 11:17:41 AM »
ill buy one of those turbos tomorrow if you can get me a new one for 1300. Cobalt SS ecotec 2.0 litre I4,  $3600 crate engine.... New pulleys on the supercharger, give or take a liberal $300. Still running 91 and not needing a team of technicians to keep it tuned... not quite priceless, but still cheap enough.

I'm a fan of the T&L 408. They have a 427 Ford too.

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« Reply #44 on: January 30, 2008, 12:28:45 PM »
We had a customer looking for a v-drive so he could hook a rotory up to a jet once, the problem is the rpm range they make their power in and typically its still not enough power to turn most convetional cuts at those rpms.  I'd also be woried about getting too much weight out of the back and having the boat ride funny.


Heres my non-professional opinion.....4 bangers sound like sh*t ;D

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« Reply #45 on: January 30, 2008, 12:31:56 PM »
I share that opinion with you Josh.... However the power potential of that new chevy is undeniable. The peak torque number was actually at 3200RPMs... I am a firm believer in the SB v8 but I would really like to see someone do one of those little chevy's.

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« Reply #46 on: January 30, 2008, 12:36:04 PM »
thats cool I like thinkin outside the box.  I have no knowledge of the chevy just the prob the guy was having with the rotory(rpm wise).  Maybe if you stuck two of those 4's side by side with a cross pipe it would sound desent

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« Reply #47 on: January 30, 2008, 12:40:11 PM »
thats cool I like thinkin outside the box.  I have no knowledge of the chevy just the prob the guy was having with the rotory(rpm wise).  Maybe if you stuck two of those 4's side by side with a cross pipe it would sound desent

Josh,  It's a 3 rotor motor and I thought it sounded pretty good.  I'm still building my sbc and looking for a small boat to put it in.  :)   Greg
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« Reply #48 on: January 30, 2008, 04:08:24 PM »
The ecotec chevy sounds bitchin with a single chamber flowmaster on it. It sings... I don't know how else to describe it, doesn't sound like any other 4cylinder I've heard.

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« Reply #49 on: January 30, 2008, 04:34:43 PM »
That would probably be right for Daves JR drive, I still go the jr Intake that came out of my lil boat sittin arround somewhere not sure what i'll ever do with it.

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« Reply #50 on: January 30, 2008, 06:02:39 PM »

Heres my non-professional opinion.....4 bangers sound like sh*t ;D

Josh, you should attend a Pro-4 stock car race, the sounds from the smaller engines running hard is incredible.

We use to run an Olds Quad-4 with a stock bottom end, Ross pistons, custom ground cams, port match only and dual Weber DCOE 50's, getting about 325hp @ 7800rpm  :o

There was a few tracks giving us a hard time about exceeding 95db at 100'  :D
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« Reply #51 on: January 30, 2008, 06:14:58 PM »
I believe ya, just tryn to get a rise out of these guys :D but you won't convince me that a stock honda civic with a 4 inch tip sounds good.  As a joke in high scool I took my Dads old retired 88 Dodge colt, cut the muffler off stung a straight pipe with a resonator on.  It wasn't fast because I didn't have all the bolt on primered ground effects like the other guys.


In my high school "Fast in the furious" was a lifestyle for some, or so they would have liked you to believe.

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« Reply #52 on: January 30, 2008, 07:44:05 PM »
Sounds like we grew up in the same era Josh. In the days where a spoiler chopped 2 seconds off a civics 1/4...

As for that Jr. intake I may be buggin ya for it... Someone at work crashed their Cobalt SS and offered me the engine/tranny last week. So I've been buggin Dave about the Jr. he's not so enthusiastic these days.

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« Reply #53 on: January 30, 2008, 08:46:38 PM »
Sounds like we grew up in the same era Josh. In the days where a spoiler chopped 2 seconds off a civics 1/4...

As for that Jr. intake I may be buggin ya for it... Someone at work crashed their Cobalt SS and offered me the engine/tranny last week. So I've been buggin Dave about the Jr. he's not so enthusiastic these days.

In my era, spoilers came on 69 Camaro's and civics was a class in highschool.  I'm feeling old... :(
R/C

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« Reply #54 on: January 30, 2008, 09:03:20 PM »
In my era, spoilers came on 69 Camaro's and civics was a class in highschool.  I'm feeling old... :(

I know the feeling...  AND you could do a 10 second quarter mile on pump gas at 23 cents a gallon.  Oh for the good old days again!  I had a 68 Camaro that had a spoiler on it.  :)
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« Reply #55 on: January 30, 2008, 11:49:11 PM »
I know the feeling...  AND you could do a 10 second quarter mile on pump gas at 23 cents a gallon.  Oh for the good old days again!  I had a 68 Camaro that had a spoiler on it.  :)
I had a 68 camaro spoiler on my mustang, literally. Chopped and filled the corners to make it fit.  Don't ask about the stupid window decal, it was only on for about a week.

I sure do miss that car ever now and a again.....oh well next project :D

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« Reply #56 on: January 31, 2008, 05:49:06 AM »
I know the feeling...  AND you could do a 10 second quarter mile on pump gas at 23 cents a gallon.  Oh for the good old days again!  I had a 68 Camaro that had a spoiler on it.  :)

1ST car I had was 67 Mustang convertable 3sp stick with 6cyl. Yellow with black top.. $150 (no rust or dents), next car was a 69 Camaro DZ302 burgundy with white stripes, black hounds tooth interior. $3200. (I wish I had that still) The guy who bought it from me, still has it. One of the main reasons I bought my Tahiti, besides being extremely clean, was the spoiler on the back, reminded me of the Camaro.
R/C

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« Reply #57 on: January 31, 2008, 10:44:34 AM »
I've always dug the lines on that boat. The back looks similar to a pantera bottom except it looks like its got an extra set of strakes on the sides of the intake opening, or atleast they extend all the way back.  is the keel rounded or a delta pad?

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« Reply #58 on: January 31, 2008, 07:10:52 PM »
Rounded.
R/C

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« Reply #59 on: February 02, 2008, 04:46:43 PM »
Been doing some thinking...  Tom, Greg, Undone, I think I've seen the light.  Looked at some of the goods that T&L Engine Development had to offer and some others.  Weight difference between BB & SB is approximately 175lbs.  Thats quite a bit. 408 stroker motor at 510hp and 500 lbs torque, WOW.

I'm glad you have seen the light on this. I read this thread last week and decided to sign up just to give you my .02. But it look's like you decided correctly. You can get a ton of HP/Trq out of a stroker small block.

Rather you choose a 383, 408 or a  406 (.030 over bore 400) with the correct set of heads and the right cam and intake you can make some very good number's.



That's a copy of a 409" Ford Windsor that I had built a few yrs back. It might be more power than you are looking for , but something in the hp 585-600 range is not out of the question for a 406 or 408 smblk Chevy wth the right parts choosen for the job.

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« Reply #60 on: February 02, 2008, 11:49:19 PM »
I'm glad you have seen the light on this. I read this thread last week and decided to sign up just to give you my .02. But it look's like you decided correctly. You can get a ton of HP/Trq out of a stroker small block.

Rather you choose a 383, 408 or a  406 (.030 over bore 400) with the correct set of heads and the right cam and intake you can make some very good number's.



That's a copy of a 409" Ford Windsor that I had built a few yrs back. It might be more power than you are looking for , but something in the hp 585-600 range is not out of the question for a 406 or 408 smblk Chevy wth the right parts choosen for the job.

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Nice Numbers!  We need to compare notes, I may have under estimated mine.  I supose with out a dyno pull I'd rather aim low however.  Which AFR heads were they and did they have additional work?

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« Reply #61 on: February 03, 2008, 12:21:43 AM »
Rounded.
Sorry to leave ya hangen, but part of the reason I was curious about the shape of your keel is beacuse I think there is some performance to be had in you pump setup.  I've been lookin real hard at E pumps latley (my CVX20 has one), and i think Duane was/is really on to something with his ride plate and shoe kit.  Typically E pumps are installed high in relation to the keel so the sides of the intake don't stick down.  On a rounded keel this brings the mouth of the intake aprox 1/2" up from the keel, on Taylors I hear its even worse.  Ervan Capps told me Duanes kit works dreams on Taylors.
 
Anyway, mabey i'll start an E pump thred in the jet section.  Don't wanna get off track again this threds no over yet.

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« Reply #62 on: February 03, 2008, 09:39:56 AM »
[quote author=Josh@JBP:
Nice Numbers!  We need to compare notes, I may have under estimated mine.  I supose with out a dyno pull I'd rather aim low however.  Which AFR heads were they and did they have additional work?
[/quote]

The heads are  CNC ported AFR 225's w/ 2.08" int. The intakes stalled at 308 cfm at .600 the 2.08 valve would have flowed more with a .030 or larger overbore that would have unshrouded the valve.

This engine also had a rather radical Roller Cam in it. I don't even remember the numbers on it I'll see if I can find the ballpark number's tomorrow. This engine was my Engine Masters engine, it had to make power from 2,500- 6,500. It's not a cam that you would run in a boat or  car because the ramp speed is wicked, you would beat the hell out of the valve guides in a short amount of time. Shorter duration and very high lift for the duration.

I'll post another dyno sheet with the dual plane RPM-Air Gap intake. It lost top end HP and picked up some serious trq. down low.

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« Last Edit: February 03, 2008, 12:07:31 PM by Sleeper CP 19 »
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« Reply #63 on: February 04, 2008, 03:58:39 PM »
Here is a graph of the dual plane RPM Air Gap vs Victor Jr. intake. The Victor Jr. made 37 more HP on the top end but the Air Gap made as much as 100 more lbs foot of trq. down low.



And the graph of the two:



You could built a very stought smblk.

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« Reply #64 on: February 04, 2008, 07:29:57 PM »
I'm glad you have seen the light on this. I read this thread last week and decided to sign up just to give you my .02. But it look's like you decided correctly. You can get a ton of HP/Trq out of a stroker small block.

Rather you choose a 383, 408 or a  406 (.030 over bore 400) with the correct set of heads and the right cam and intake you can make some very good number's.



That's a copy of a 409" Ford Windsor that I had built a few yrs back. It might be more power than you are looking for , but something in the hp 585-600 range is not out of the question for a 406 or 408 smblk Chevy wth the right parts choosen for the job

Sleeper CP 19

Big Inch Ford Lover ;D

What recipe would you have for a 585-600 hp SBC?  What kind of reliability could I expect from a motor like this?
R/C

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« Reply #65 on: February 04, 2008, 07:43:27 PM »
Do you want to not touch the engine or are you okay with adjusting valves on a Soild Roller ?

Pump gas or mixed (91/race gas) ? What rpm range?

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« Reply #66 on: February 04, 2008, 07:54:28 PM »
Do you want to not touch the engine or are you okay with adjusting valves on a Soild Roller ?

Pump gas or mixed (91/race gas) ? What rpm range?

Sleeper CP  ;D
Pump gas, I'm sure I could learn to adjust valves.  What RPM range is reliable?  I'm 47, haven't touched a motor since I was 17-18 yrs old. That's kinda how this thread started, was to build something with my 12 yr old, the BBC I bought a few weeks ago.  As you can see, I think we've changed our direction.
R/C

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« Reply #67 on: February 04, 2008, 07:56:44 PM »
Sorry to leave ya hangen, but part of the reason I was curious about the shape of your keel is beacuse I think there is some performance to be had in you pump setup.  I've been lookin real hard at E pumps latley (my CVX20 has one), and i think Duane was/is really on to something with his ride plate and shoe kit.  Typically E pumps are installed high in relation to the keel so the sides of the intake don't stick down.  On a rounded keel this brings the mouth of the intake aprox 1/2" up from the keel, on Taylors I hear its even worse.  Ervan Capps told me Duanes kit works dreams on Taylors.
 
Anyway, mabey i'll start an E pump thred in the jet section.  Don't wanna get off track again this threds no over yet.
Josh, who's Duane?
R/C

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« Reply #68 on: February 04, 2008, 08:29:16 PM »
R/C Josh is probably chillin with the Fam but he's talkin bout Duane at Hitech marine I belive He'll be back on line tommorow !! DAD  ;D

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« Reply #69 on: February 04, 2008, 09:23:15 PM »
Pump gas, I'm sure I could learn to adjust valves.  What RPM range is reliable?  I'm 47, haven't touched a motor since I was 17-18 yrs old. That's kinda how this thread started, was to build something with my 12 yr old, the BBC I bought a few weeks ago.  As you can see, I think we've changed our direction.

If we were talking a smblk Ford I could rattle off a bunch of info off the top of my head. If this is something you would like to do with your kid you might want to buy a stought short-block 408 or bigger and then get  a hydr. roller cam and the heads and put it together. I'll look for some short block info for you.

I'll ask Dan Crower and my friend Geoff Mummert what they think. I would think you can safley do 10.5:1 if you go hydrl. roller you will be pretty much
limited to 6,500 rpm's. I'll see what they think about a 10.5:1 408 making 585 hp. That would be 1.43 hp/cu.in that's a pretty well built engine.

I'll get back to you.

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« Reply #70 on: February 05, 2008, 05:32:37 AM »
If we were talking a smblk Ford I could rattle off a bunch of info off the top of my head. If this is something you would like to do with your kid you might want to buy a stought short-block 408 or bigger and then get  a hydr. roller cam and the heads and put it together. I'll look for some short block info for you.

I'll ask Dan Crower and my friend Geoff Mummert what they think. I would think you can safley do 10.5:1 if you go hydrl. roller you will be pretty much
limited to 6,500 rpm's. I'll see what they think about a 10.5:1 408 making 585 hp. That would be 1.43 hp/cu.in that's a pretty well built engine.

I'll get back to you.








Sleeper CP ;D


Thanks CP, I appreciate you taking the time.   R/C
R/C

1988 16' Tahiti SBC  &  1977 18' Dimarco

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« Reply #71 on: February 05, 2008, 04:35:55 PM »
It just so happened that my cell rings this morning and it was Danny Crower. Got around to asking him your question. He stated that unless you are going to go for a high dollar Motown or Dart block for a 427 smblk he said build a 383 with a mechanical roller and 10.5-10.75 compression with some very good heads, Dart or Brodix maybe even Trick-Flow.

Set it up to run to 6,500 rpm's and try both a ported RPM Air Gap intake and Victor Jr on the dyno.

You had asked me what rpm range is reliable. With good part's you can turn an engine to 6,500 rpm's for year's without a problem. It just comes down to budget, do you have one yet ? And do you have a builder or are you thinking about the short block route ? I can set you up with a couple of guy's I trust very much for what ever direction you choose or you can get a 383 short block mail ordered that are pretty damn good and no over the top expensive.

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« Last Edit: February 05, 2008, 10:33:14 PM by Sleeper CP 19 »
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« Reply #72 on: February 05, 2008, 05:54:40 PM »
   SUGGESTION BUY FEBRUARY POPULAR HOT RODDING MAG IT IS ABOUT A PUMP GAS SHOOT OUT LOOK AT SPEC ON MOTORS WHAT SIZE AND HOW THE WERE BUILT THINK ON COST FORD MOTORS USED FORD CRANK AND FORD BLOCK NOT AFTER MARKET, NOTE  WHAT ONE PUT OUT MOST HP WITH FACTORY PARTS NOT  HIGH COST AFTER MARKET LOOK AT CAM , CARB, COMP,MOST RAN 10.43 FOR PUMP GAS THEY RAN. NOT TO GOOD FOR BIG BLOCKS. THEY WERE THERE ON THE DINO FOR THE MONEY NO TO BAD $192,000 READ AND THINK NO BIG PORT HEADS MADE IT?????????????

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« Reply #73 on: February 05, 2008, 07:02:55 PM »
Thanks guys. I pictured the build over a 2-3 year period, to skim funding (checking account).  I'll have to make it through May, then my budget, hopefully opens up.
R/C

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« Reply #74 on: February 05, 2008, 10:32:26 PM »
Sounds good. Drop me a note anytime you like.

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