May 22, 2012, 07:33:46 AMLatest Member: harley101

Author Topic: What motor to build? Will the pump work?  (Read 2060 times)

Ralph Brunt

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #25 on: July 12, 2011, 07:52:19 PM »
perv, you have a fine cruiser and i would tend to keep it that way. you can build a 500hp engine that is very reliable and still run the log exhaust. if you want to go fast find a different hull jmho...

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the.perv

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #26 on: July 12, 2011, 07:59:27 PM »
perv, you have a fine cruiser and i would tend to keep it that way. you can build a 500hp engine that is very reliable and still run the log exhaust. if you want to go fast find a different hull jmho...

Thanks Ralph, hey I was looking at some pics of your boat, it looks very very similar to mine, Is a nordic and spectra similar hulls?
 

Ralph Brunt

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #27 on: July 12, 2011, 08:30:39 PM »
Thanks Ralph, hey I was looking at some pics of your boat, it looks very very similar to mine, Is a nordic and spectra similar hulls?
i dont think so but, i could be wrong :-\

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They are all fukin tasty. My long time favorite, "Dirty Dicks -beerjet-
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TIMINATOR

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #28 on: July 13, 2011, 08:40:27 AM »
I've done several 80 mph boats with "E" pumps, the last one was a Miller with a FORD, the one before that was a Taylor SS with a Chevy. No loading issues with an angle iron ski grate(got a spare one for sale) with any of them. I have owned boats with the "E" pump and they all ran very well, I do have quite a few inserts and complete standard pumps in my core area, but I have never seen the need to change out an "E" for anything else in any of my boats. The new alum CJ heads are very fine but more costly than the Pro-Comps. The problem with most alum heads is that they tend to give up mid-lift flow for high lift flow. For a typical 80-90 mph jet boat the head that flows better in the .400 to .500 lift range will be faster with a .600 or so cam. It is irrelevent what the head flows at .700-.850 if you have a .575 lift or even a .700 lift cam. The valve is at mid lift flow twice: once on opening, and once while closing, it is at max lift only once and for a very short time. The difference in flow at .400-.500 is what you care about, but most aftermarket heads are better suited for drag use at a higher rpm. I build engines and jet pumps for a living so I do not base my opinions on one set of anything that I just bought. We also have a cam analyzer that allows checking every parameter of the cams curve, including area under the curve. We also have about 12-15 sets of different brand heads around here right now. We flow bench everything different that comes thru here to be able to better serve our customers. The above is only my opinion, but it is based on over 40 years of performance engine, drag car, and boat building that has made me a decent living. Call me for more info. TIMINATOR
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Ralph Brunt

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #29 on: July 13, 2011, 09:35:00 AM »
ok Tim i will bite :o 795.00 for the heads 500.00 for valves keepers and retainers, 150.00 for springs, 300.00 for you to set them up, 800.00 for porting so they flow like a good set of aftermarket heads. What am i missing? scj heads from summitt 1800.00

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They are all fukin tasty. My long time favorite, "Dirty Dicks -beerjet-
Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!

GT Jets

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #30 on: July 13, 2011, 01:20:24 PM »
I've done several 80 mph boats with "E" pumps, the last one was a Miller with a FORD, the one before that was a Taylor SS with a Chevy. No loading issues with an angle iron ski grate(got a spare one for sale) with any of them. I have owned boats with the "E" pump and they all ran very well, I do have quite a few inserts and complete standard pumps in my core area, but I have never seen the need to change out an "E" for anything else in any of my boats. The new alum CJ heads are very fine but more costly than the Pro-Comps. The problem with most alum heads is that they tend to give up mid-lift flow for high lift flow. For a typical 80-90 mph jet boat the head that flows better in the .400 to .500 lift range will be faster with a .600 or so cam. It is irrelevent what the head flows at .700-.850 if you have a .575 lift or even a .700 lift cam. The valve is at mid lift flow twice: once on opening, and once while closing, it is at max lift only once and for a very short time. The difference in flow at .400-.500 is what you care about, but most aftermarket heads are better suited for drag use at a higher rpm. I build engines and jet pumps for a living so I do not base my opinions on one set of anything that I just bought. We also have a cam analyzer that allows checking every parameter of the cams curve, including area under the curve. We also have about 12-15 sets of different brand heads around here right now. We flow bench everything different that comes thru here to be able to better serve our customers. The above is only my opinion, but it is based on over 40 years of performance engine, drag car, and boat building that has made me a decent living. Call me for more info. TIMINATOR

Tim...

Not being a dick here, but........

You are comparing a 650 pound Taylor hull and a 800 pound Miller to a 1200+ pound Spectra with a Vee drive bottom.    :thumbdown:

As much as I would love to see an 80 MPH Spectra 18 with an E pump, I will say not feasible within a reasonable amount of work or money....

With all do respect, the JE can be made to work, but takes more than what the OP is willing to put into it. I say the JE is perfect for the Spectra 18 if he lowered his sights by 10 MPH.... :thumbup:

Just my opinion.

We had a Spectra 18 and a Spectra 20, you could have driven either of them THROUGH a Miller and only needed to rub out the scratches on the Spectra... :screwy:

Friggen military grade....

GT
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #31 on: July 15, 2011, 08:38:27 AM »
Since no-one has called me on prices, it is no surprise that your estimate is about $400.00 or so too high. With us or other marine specific engine shops you will get the correct boat specific parts and boat specific porting from a shop that knows the difference, even if the price would be the same. But its not. If ya all like,I can supply the pics and phone # of the last big box retailer victim that brought his BBC engine and heads in here Wednesday. He paid more for Iron Darts, with lower quality parts, and less flow, than the Pro-Comps, and I have pics of the heads side by side. Those Darts were purchased specifically for use with a hydraulic roller cam, (he supplied them with the cam specs when ordering), and floated the valves at not much over 4200 rpm, (there are Xs on the valve tips). They had installed the correct springs, but they used very tall (incorrect) retainers and the seat pressure was only 90-100#, so they apparently didn't have a spring tester or knowlege to set them up correctly. Pick an excuse, they are a retailer, not a machine shop. The cam calls for 130 on the seat. The retailer sells that same cam too.
The core shift is terrible on his Darts, the intake port openings are waaay off. I will flow both sets and may post the results. I much prefer to buy American, but not when the price and quality aren't there. As far as the boat weights and solidarity goes with the "E" pump deal, "budget" doesn't equate to ripping out a perfectly adequate "E" pump to gain only a few mph. Dollar for dollar horsepower gains result in more speed than pump mods, (assuming the pump isn't junked to begin with, if it is, then fix it). The pump-only building guys will argue that point, but then again, if they did engines too, they wouldn't see your $$$ going down the street if they didn't try to push their "Stage-whiz-bang" pump package to someone with less than 4-500 HP. I like to think that we are unbiased as to mods and their bang for the buck effect, because we do bottom blueprinting, pump setbacks, pump building and have an entire engine building facility under the same roof.   TIMINATOR
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Ralph Brunt

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #32 on: July 15, 2011, 09:04:24 AM »
Tim, I am not doubting your experience or knowledge ;) i am just not a fan of the pro-crap no matter who does the work because in the end you still have a set of pro-crap heads with little to no resale value....... i would rather pay you the 400.00 that you said i was off to inspect and set up a good set of heads.

ive said it before in this thread, all new parts should be treated as suspect until verified otherwise.........
ralph

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They are all fukin tasty. My long time favorite, "Dirty Dicks -beerjet-
Glasscutter, Skip, OC2  Nordie and many more nail me good every time, relentlessly, I love those guys!

GT Jets

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #33 on: July 17, 2011, 11:30:03 AM »
Never once did I recommend nor insinuate anything even close to
As far as the boat weights and solidarity goes with the "E" pump deal, "budget" doesn't equate to ripping out a perfectly adequate "E" pump to gain only a few mph.

What I said was

Spectra hulls are typically very well built but heavy hulls, you may want to lower your expectations a wee bit...

A heavy hull, coupled with a somewhat inferior performing pump package and I think you are going to be floating in Disappointment Bay....

To get these pumps to work takes quite a lot of thought. Being an "insert" type intake, the ramp is both short and steep, this really limits the performance expectation reality.

It can and has been done, but I think it would be more realistic to shoot for a 65 MPH family cruiser and use the money you saved to find a "Hot Rod". Realistically you would probably need to be in the neighborhood of in excess of 750 HP and have made numerous changes to both the hull and the pump to achieve the mid 70's with what you have to work with thus far. Whereas a different hull and pump package could do it with less than 600 ponies....Food for thought. :thumbup:


If you're gonna quote somebody, quote em fairly...

To the OP, IMHO you should use this boat for it's intended design, to have fun.   My opinion still stands if you want to go 75+MPH, try to find a boat to do just that. You have a killer "grocery getter" in that Spectra that if maintained properly will last a lifetime. And should do 60-65 MPH reliably with the right engine/pump modifications. 75 MPH will cost you what another boat would., Just my humble opinion again...

Have some fun and use it, don't be like me and only build em so someone else can use them.... :banghead: :screwy: :thumbdown:

GT
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #34 on: July 17, 2011, 08:59:46 PM »
Bang for the buck and the Spectra running 80 is a difficult but not impossible task. It can be done with the "E" pump, and cheaper than replacing the entire pump package. Since I sold 3 sets of the Pro-Comps last week(with my selection of parts), and I have a waiting list for used ones(BBFord and BBChevy), I would like the contact info for anyone selling some used. I leave a Dart and RHS (warrenty deal) head sitting next to the Pro-Comp on the bench for comparison purposes, and 3 sets of AFRs that all dropped valves, (all of the AFRs were purchased complete), and the flowbench is available for use before purchase too. They sell themselves,  as do the carbs(we assemble, blueprint, and jet them for their intended use. Notice to lurkers: do NOT buy anything based on anyone's opinion, even mine, oh wait a minute, I don't deal in opinions.  Do your own research, or you will get what you deserve. No offense to anyone. Some day we can discuss the conversation with the guy that bought the Banderlog board a few years ago. If required we can even get into the TIMINATORS 5 rules for discussion. TIMINATOR
TUFENUF MARINE PERFORMANCE  623-877-8553
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JET PUMPS!!!
PM or call me with JETTECH questions for HOTBOAT MAGAZINE!!  see them in the magazine!! OOPS! not anymore! HOTBOAT is boobs up! MODESTY IS A CRUTCH FOR THE INCOMPETENT!

GT Jets

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #35 on: July 17, 2011, 09:25:05 PM »
Bang for the buck and the Spectra running 80 is a difficult but not impossible task. It can be done with the "E" pump, and cheaper than replacing the entire pump package. Since I sold 3 sets of the Pro-Comps last week(with my selection of parts), and I have a waiting list for used ones(BBFord and BBChevy), I would like the contact info for anyone selling some used. I leave a Dart and RHS (warrenty deal) head sitting next to the Pro-Comp on the bench for comparison purposes, and 3 sets of AFRs that all dropped valves, (all of the AFRs were purchased complete), and the flowbench is available for use before purchase too. They sell themselves,  as do the carbs(we assemble, blueprint, and jet them for their intended use. Notice to lurkers: do NOT buy anything based on anyone's opinion, even mine, oh wait a minute, I don't deal in opinions.  Do your own research, or you will get what you deserve. No offense to anyone. Some day we can discuss the conversation with the guy that bought the Banderlog board a few years ago. If required we can even get into the TIMINATORS 5 rules for discussion. TIMINATOR


Just can't leave this lying there............


The heads don't drop valves, valve train geometry and assembly does....Because the heads were "bought and bolted" caused the failure, not the parts, just my 2 cents.

I don't do Fords, not because they are inferior or anything immature like that. Just not what I am familiar with. Dart makes some of the best heads the American dollar can buy, for a Chevy anyways.

BTW, I am having to really bite my tongue on the Chinese "crap" you are pushing to be "better" than high end American made products that I have never had a single bad thing to say about..Nor have I personally been involved with a failure that did not have some extenuating circumstances...

Now don't get me wrong, I have built some really redneck budget "grenade" motors and had fun with them, but when it comes to full on marathon motors, no expense is spared.

So far (knocking on wood) I never killed a motor I didn't expect would someday die a horrible and grotesque death....But then again, I never expect knock off parts to perform as well as the "real deal"... :screwy:

For the lurkers........If building something you want to be proud of, involve someone who has a good track record and involve them early on in the project, if something sounds unreasonable, get another opinion.  ;)

GT
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

the.perv

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #36 on: December 20, 2011, 10:16:52 AM »
Now that its months later I have pulled the bbf460 out & found that it is .040 over (468ci) & I killed two rod bearings (1 & 5). I do not know why, the oil pump was in good shape as well as the oil pump drive shaft. I am looking at a 521 stroker kit & since its .040 over it will be about 524ci. I have read alot on here & understand that my hopes of 70ish were probly high (due to weight of hull) but I can settle for 60ish MPH. So I will try to keep you all informed as the build starts.

P.S. Any thoughts on roller cams & roller rockers (does this make motor more durable)??? & since its a JE pump should I change out the impeller to stainless steel?

enginedoctor

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Re: What motor to build? Will the pump work?
« Reply #37 on: December 20, 2011, 04:41:02 PM »
I enjoyed all of your comments on this thread, they all have merit.....but Jus wanted to add that I for one will never use anything other than American components for obvious reasons, my 2 cents  :)
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