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Machining taper on a lathe?

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Flusher

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« Reply #25 on: December 20, 2016, 10:45:56 PM »
Aluminum Berkeley?
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« Reply #26 on: December 21, 2016, 05:31:43 AM »

Aluminum Berkeley?
Yeah .


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« Reply #27 on: December 21, 2016, 06:57:57 AM »
The leading edges of the impeller vanes need to be sharp.  Those impellers also have huge fillet radii that extend out into the hub and shroud.

I bet you will see some cavitation burn in these areas.
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« Reply #28 on: December 21, 2016, 10:18:21 AM »

The leading edges of the impeller vanes need to be sharp.  Those impellers also have huge fillet radii that extend out into the hub and shroud.

I bet you will see some cavitation burn in these areas.
Detail my impeller?
  change impeller to a Legend or a aggressor ?


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« Reply #29 on: December 21, 2016, 02:48:17 PM »
I was thinking more doing a tuneup on your impeller.  Detailing is a more involved process.  I don't think you are ready to upgrade to a stainless.

Just understand that a proper front detail will take RPM out of the engine.
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« Reply #30 on: December 21, 2016, 05:55:15 PM »

I was thinking more doing a tuneup on your impeller.  Detailing is a more involved process.  I don't think you are ready to upgrade to a stainless.

Just understand that a proper front detail will take RPM out of the engine.
If I pull my impeller ..do u have time to tuneup my impeller ? I'm not worried about loss in some rpm.


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« Reply #31 on: December 21, 2016, 08:06:34 PM »
Aluminum impellers are pretty soft and nick pretty easy.  Every little imperfection contributes to cavitation and reduced performance (picture 1 & 2).

You can tuneup minor damage with a file.  Start filing with the file vertical (picture 3) to remove all the dings.  Once you get all of the dings straightened out, file to the bottom of the vanes (picture 4) to sharpen the leading edges.  You want them pretty sharp.  I break the edge only enough so that it doesn't cut me.

This example is to the point where I would hit it with a sanding roll in a die grinder.  You really don't want to remove material from the front surface of the vanes.  It's important to not change the angle of attack.

Tuning your impeller won't cause it to lose RPM unless it has severe damage.
« Last Edit: December 21, 2016, 08:10:03 PM by Flusher »
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« Reply #32 on: December 21, 2016, 08:32:18 PM »
A front detail is quite a bit more involved.  The vanes are thinned, recontoured, and sharpened to bite harder and so each vane bites the same.  The hub is machined to blend smoothly with the shaft.  There is quite a bit of hand grinding and polishing after machining.

A properly front side detailed impeller will bite and launch a lot harder, about equivalent to a stock impeller that is one full cut size larger.
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« Reply #33 on: January 01, 2017, 05:38:56 PM »

A front detail is quite a bit more involved.  The vanes are thinned, recontoured, and sharpened to bite harder and so each vane bites the same.  The hub is machined to blend smoothly with the shaft.  There is quite a bit of hand grinding and polishing after machining.

A properly front side detailed impeller will bite and launch a lot harder, about equivalent to a stock impeller that is one full cut size larger.
Hey bud was taking to u the other day about tuning up my impeller. Well I started and this thing has some deep casting marks but i got a little done. Just seeing if I'm going the right way lol


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« Reply #34 on: January 02, 2017, 07:14:42 PM »
The polishing makes zero difference,  don't waste your time.

The nicks and dings on the leading edges are what you want to "tune" out.
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« Reply #35 on: January 02, 2017, 08:01:24 PM »
Thanks bud ..I've worked on it alittle more today. I'm wondering about the pits in the casting ?


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