May 23, 2012, 03:14:38 AMLatest Member: jjfoster41

Author Topic: Capping Q/A  (Read 808 times)

74Charger

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
  • Liked: 0
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Registered User
    • View Profile
Capping Q/A
« on: October 19, 2011, 09:19:24 AM »
Hey guy's I just want to start out and say this form is great and very informative. I am a new member here and would like to try my hand at doing a resto of my 77 charger. I spent the weekend removing most of the trim & seats off the boat getting ready to strip the paint. I had hoped that the bond line that was covered by the rub rail was something like a Tahiti hull. But once I removed it I found something entirely different, It looked more like a bottle cap on my OG Coors bottle. How do I go about capping the boat? Do I need to cut the lip that over lap’s the bottom of the hull and glass from there? I have some fiber glass experience from building speaker boxes and center concels but that is the extent of my knowledge. I called GS marine and they told me if they where to do it the cost would be around $1,000 just for the cap work(No gel coat and paint). My wife will shoot me if I spend that type of money! Can anyone help? I am going to attempt to post some pictures of where I sit now with the boat. My vision is to paint it hemi orange and go with a general lee theme minus the Mopar motor.

SuperJet

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 521
  • Liked: 5
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Capping Q/A
« Reply #1 on: October 19, 2011, 12:37:40 PM »
Quick answer(I'm @ work) you are going to have to ope up that seam and v grind it so there is good bonding area. I will post pics of mine when I get home from work tonight.


Sent from that vibrating thing In your pocket using Tapatalk
  • Boat #1: 1978 Sanger SuperJet
Mine was stiff when working it back and forth on the trailer.
Once I got it on the water and under power, it was amazing!

SuperJet

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 521
  • Liked: 5
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Capping Q/A
« Reply #2 on: October 19, 2011, 06:27:50 PM »
here are some shots of my Sanger when I did it last winter. Sorry in advance for the poor quality.





Basically what you are trying to achieve, is to make two different pieces into one and unless you open up the seam where they are tabbed together  your glass job will crack.. I hope this helps. If you are looking for more pics on what capping a boat entails click these links.

http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/project-superjet/


alright well i can seem to only find the link for my build. But if you search hard enough you will find a thread started by Ralph Brunt. on his race boat he decided to start capping.. good luck and if you do end up going fo it just remember. We like pictures >:D

SJ
  • Boat #1: 1978 Sanger SuperJet
Mine was stiff when working it back and forth on the trailer.
Once I got it on the water and under power, it was amazing!

74Charger

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 6
  • Liked: 0
  • Karma: +0/-0
  • Registered User
    • View Profile
Re: Capping Q/A
« Reply #3 on: October 20, 2011, 08:29:36 AM »
Thanks Super Jet! What was the wax paper used for on your build pictures? also what do you mean by " Tabed Together"? Again thanks for you insite.

wizard612

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 471
  • Liked: 0
  • Karma: +4/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Capping Q/A
« Reply #4 on: October 20, 2011, 04:30:39 PM »
I would go about it by first glassing the INSIDE of the seam with probably three layers of 6oz mat 6" wide. prep the surface first by grinding the existing surface and clean with acetone before glassing ( this pretty much means taking out the interior).

Next grind out the OUTSIDE of the seam down to the new glass about 4" wide. Clean as before. Glass in the cap with enough layers of 6oz mat to be higher than the finished contour.

Grind/sand down the outside to the desired profile getting down to about 120 grit.  Mask an inch above and below your glassed cap clean and prime with a good polyester sanding primer/filler. sand to final contour and feathering the edges getting down to 400 grit before painting.

This is old school capping and takes mucho time and effort.  I don't know how Shoemaker is having his caps done now days but it sounds like they don't do it that way anymore since $1,000 I don't think will cover the materials.

SuperJet

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 521
  • Liked: 5
  • Karma: +0/-0
    • View Profile
Re: Capping Q/A
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2011, 06:39:02 PM »
Yes it was wax paper lol. It cut down sanding time by a bunch. I did this because when I capped my hull I used epoxy resin and it doesn't sand as easy as polyester or vinylester. Tabbing refers to the seam on the inside where the two halfs are bonded together with glass. the way I did my hull is ok but if I had more time I would do it the same way Wizard advises. This is very old school but, it makes the best bond. I can assure you that the way I did my hull is plenty strong enough. This season my hull has seen some water that I was sure was going to sink me and the boat came out in tact with no cracks.If there are any more questions fell free to ask if I can help  I will

SJ
  • Boat #1: 1978 Sanger SuperJet
Mine was stiff when working it back and forth on the trailer.
Once I got it on the water and under power, it was amazing!

 


Powered by EzPortal
Buy GoPro HD cameras at GoPro.com
anything