Tahiti jet and outboard the same hull?

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Dyna4424

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« on: September 09, 2017, 07:46:21 PM »
I have a 78 Tahiti tiger bubble deck outboard with a merc 175. Oil injection decided to stop working and i seized the motor up pretty good. The cost for me to rebuild the motor or buy a new one is outrageous. So my question is, and I hope someone has the answer. Is the 18ft tiger bubble jet the same hull as the outboard? Could I convert my outboard to a jet? I have a pump and motor in my garage out of another boat that my dad graciously provided for me, but before I cut and grind, any info on this would be helpful.
  • Boat #1: 1978 Tahiti


Flusher

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« Reply #1 on: September 09, 2017, 09:35:24 PM »
I just did a Hondo, anything is possible.

To really know if it's worth it, really need to see the shape of the keel around where the jet intake will be.  Can you post pictures of the keel?
  • Boat #1: 1991 Hallett 20.5'
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tunnels

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« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2017, 08:32:39 AM »
If the conversion wont work, You can buy a wrecked boat with a good motor fairly cheap on sites like autobidforyou.com. The jet would be much cooler but it looks like you will loose the back seat!
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Dyna4424

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« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2017, 11:56:30 AM »
I just did a Hondo, anything is possible.

To really know if it's worth it, really need to see the shape of the keel around where the jet intake will be.  Can you post pictures of the keel?

I can post some pics tonight when I get home. Hopefully its a yes because right now, i have a really big conoe. And I dont need a backseat! I just need room for an icechest, my dog and lady 😂
  • Boat #1: 1978 Tahiti

Dyna4424

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« Reply #4 on: September 10, 2017, 04:51:55 PM »
I took the best pics I could with it still on the trailer.
  • Boat #1: 1978 Tahiti

GT Jets

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« Reply #5 on: September 10, 2017, 05:37:14 PM »
That would be a fairly difficult hull to convert, the splashwell is the hard part... It will need to have stringers installed.... I would find a different boat.






GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

Dyna4424

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« Reply #6 on: September 10, 2017, 05:52:17 PM »
That would be a fairly difficult hull to convert, the splashwell is the hard part... It will need to have stringers installed.... I would find a different boat.






GT

When I first got the boat, I tore the carpet and floor up because it had some water sitting in it and replaced it. When I did that, there were stringers. If you're talking just 2 from front to rear. They may need to be replaced but I'm open to doing a little manual labor. Boat has some sentimental value so if I can keep it and restore it without spending the amount the 3 new boats cost, I'm willing to do it
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« Reply #7 on: September 10, 2017, 06:48:05 PM »
When I first got the boat, I tore the carpet and floor up because it had some water sitting in it and replaced it. When I did that, there were stringers. If you're talking just 2 from front to rear. They may need to be replaced but I'm open to doing a little manual labor. Boat has some sentimental value so if I can keep it and restore it without spending the amount the 3 new boats cost, I'm willing to do it

Look at what you will have to do to the splashwell.... That will tell you what you need to know.

You can find someone with a drill fixture for the pump and the holes are not a really big deal. You will need to change the rear of the deck to finish off the transom. You will need to reconfigure the interior, or eliminate the rear seat all together.

The trailer will need to be adjusted for the added transom weight, otherwise it will be too tongue light to tow.

None of the original electrical system will work, it will need to be completely rewired.

You will need all controls replaced, including the steering cable (too short) and foot throttle.

Is it worth dong? Not to me.... If you have a vested interest in this hull, then yes, maybe it is worth it to retain the sentimental value.

Just keep in mind, you will have a seventies jet boat and you will not have any sweat equity available to fall back on. It will be a $3500 boat if the conversion comes out right.

Not trying to be a Debbie Downer, just trying to inform you of the huge endeavor you are about to embark on can get overwhelming very fast.

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2017, 07:09:46 PM »
Look at what you will have to do to the splashwell.... That will tell you what you need to know.

You can find someone with a drill fixture for the pump and the holes are not a really big deal. You will need to change the rear of the deck to finish off the transom. You will need to reconfigure the interior, or eliminate the rear seat all together.

The trailer will need to be adjusted for the added transom weight, otherwise it will be too tongue light to tow.

None of the original electrical system will work, it will need to be completely rewired.

You will need all controls replaced, including the steering cable (too short) and foot throttle.

Is it worth dong? Not to me.... If you have a vested interest in this hull, then yes, maybe it is worth it to retain the sentimental value.

Just keep in mind, you will have a seventies jet boat and you will not have any sweat equity available to fall back on. It will be a $3500 boat if the conversion comes out right.

Not trying to be a Debbie Downer, just trying to inform you of the huge endeavor you are about to embark on can get overwhelming very fast.

GT

I knew it wasn't going to be easy. As far as the hull goes, there is nothing left in it except carpet. All wiring is gone. Gauges are out. I have steering and throttle cables from the boat I got the engine and pump out of. I didn't tgink about the trailer so I appreciate that. And as far as the transom goes, I feel that is going to be what separates whether I do this or not. I didnt really want to mess with the deck
  • Boat #1: 1978 Tahiti

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« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2017, 08:02:12 PM »
I took the best pics I could with it still on the trailer.
The pictures are perfect.

Looks like a pretty good shape.  Time to start taking some measurements and making some decisions.  The pump drives the location of the engine.

Could you take a measurement along the keel from the transom?  Does the sharp V end about 30" forward of the transom?  If the intake opening protrudes into the sharp V, you will definitely need to laminate some glass inside to facilitate blending the transition between the fiberglass keel and the intake opening.  I find the nicest installs work out best if I build up a flat in front of the intake cutout and blend it forward into the keel.

While you are in a laminating mood, you will want to build up a flat spot, between the intake cutout and the transom.  Most likely you will need to grind the bottom in this area to clear a ride plate.  It would be a good idea to machine your intake for a shoe and ride plate if it isn't already done.

I would try to set the intake so the keel cutout is 1" forward of the inside surface of the transom fiberglass.  The wood will need to be trimmed and sealed for clearance.  Try to make the hole in the transom as small as possible.

When you cut the hole in the keel, measure from the lifting strakes so the hole is as straight and centered as possible.

What type of mounting system will you use?  Do you have a bare block to use for setup?  What engine?

Good luck,

Joe
  • Boat #1: 1991 Hallett 20.5'
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« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2017, 08:09:31 PM »
The pictures are perfect.

Looks like a pretty good shape.  Time to start taking some measurements and making some decisions.  The pump drives the location of the engine.

Could you take a measurement along the keel from the transom?  Does the sharp V end about 30" forward of the transom?  If the intake opening protrudes into the sharp V, you will definitely need to laminate some glass inside to facilitate blending the transition between the fiberglass keel and the intake opening.  I find the nicest installs work out best if I build up a flat in front of the intake cutout and blend it forward into the keel.

While you are in a laminating mood, you will want to build up a flat spot, between the intake cutout and the transom.  Most likely you will need to grind the bottom in this area to clear a ride plate.  It would be a good idea to machine your intake for a shoe and ride plate if it isn't already done.

I would try to set the intake so the keel cutout is 1" forward of the inside surface of the transom fiberglass.  The wood will need to be trimmed and sealed for clearance.  Try to make the hole in the transom as small as possible.

When you cut the hole in the keel, measure from the lifting strakes so the hole is as straight and centered as possible.

What type of mounting system will you use?  Do you have a bare block to use for setup?  What engine?

Good luck,

Joe
Lack of stringers changes everything!

Exactly why I shouldn't allow my fingers to run on without seeing the big picture.

If you are dead set on undertaking this project, you will also need to ensure the bottom is not too thin and flexible as all the thrust load is transferred through the intake into the keel.

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  • Boat #1: 1991 Hallett 20.5'
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #11 on: September 10, 2017, 10:23:49 PM »
Man I have a 1970 Tahiti hull that I cut the pump out of that might be easier to glass back in it's a full stringer. Needs gauges,interior,paint,and a trailer. I have a title for it if you want it it's yours


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« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2017, 08:29:44 AM »
Man I have a 1970 Tahiti hull that I cut the pump out of that might be easier to glass back in it's a full stringer. Needs gauges,interior,paint,and a trailer. I have a title for it if you want it it's yours


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How much and where are you located? If i could keep this boat I have in tact and maybe eventually find a motor, I would love that. Do you have pics?

And I appreciate all the responses and the help! If the hull I have is going to be my operating victim, I'll send all the measurements and be asking for help every step of the way. I never thought I'd ever "build" a jet boat 😂
  • Boat #1: 1978 Tahiti

randog

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« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2017, 01:10:47 AM »
I'm by Joshua tree it would need quite a bit of work. But it yours if you want it


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« Reply #14 on: September 12, 2017, 08:51:15 AM »
I'm by Joshua tree it would need quite a bit of work. But it yours if you want it


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Could you post up a couple pictures?
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« Reply #15 on: September 12, 2017, 08:53:51 AM »
I don't when I'll get down there it's at my dads but it ain't pretty and will need some work


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« Reply #16 on: September 12, 2017, 11:39:09 AM »
I don't when I'll get down there it's at my dads but it ain't pretty and will need some work


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I appreciate the offer. If you could grab some pics of it, I am interested. Work is inevitable no matter which way I go. I would rather do repair work on a hull that alresdy has the important stuff done instead of cutting into mine.
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« Reply #17 on: September 12, 2017, 11:43:26 AM »
I appreciate the offer. If you could grab some pics of it, I am interested. Work is inevitable no matter which way I go. I would rather do repair work on a hull that alresdy has the important stuff done instead of cutting into mine.
Right


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« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2017, 08:28:42 AM »
I would jump on this
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/bpo/d/nordic-jet-boat-project-no-tr/6301645512.html


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« Reply #19 on: September 13, 2017, 10:13:30 AM »
I would jump on this
https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/bpo/d/nordic-jet-boat-project-no-tr/6301645512.html


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Appreciate that! That's a good find. I need to expand my search. I'm trying to be lazy and not have to drive too far. But all the gems are worth the drive
  • Boat #1: 1978 Tahiti

 


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