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12jc pump rebuild

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woskie70

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« on: May 09, 2017, 09:04:59 PM »
I am in the process of rebuilding my pump and had a question. What do I use to take this bolt or screw off?


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brian777

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« Reply #1 on: May 10, 2017, 12:14:38 AM »
A big flathead screwdriver


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Steveo909

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« Reply #2 on: May 10, 2017, 11:50:59 AM »
Impact gun


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jim brock

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« Reply #3 on: May 10, 2017, 12:45:09 PM »
Hammer and flat chisel

AZ Tom

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« Reply #4 on: May 10, 2017, 05:55:02 PM »
I am in the process of rebuilding my pump and had a question. What do I use to take this bolt or screw off?


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A big flat head driver on an pneumatic impact

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woskie70

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« Reply #5 on: May 11, 2017, 09:08:30 PM »
So I have now gotten everything apart and found a mess. This was my dads boat he bought new in '75. First time the pump has been touched in 40 years. I have taken on this family gem and trying to get it back to its glory days. My impeller is in pieces and my bearings are shredded. Here are some pictures. My number one question is did the impeller do to much damage to keep using the housing? Any info anyone has about any part of this is appreciated.


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woskie70

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« Reply #6 on: May 11, 2017, 09:11:34 PM »
A few more pics


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Steveo909

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« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2017, 07:34:40 AM »
Looks like the wear ring is still there. Take a torch to melt the insulator and remove the old wear ring and check for damage. Look at the vanes and the shaft also.


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steves86ta

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« Reply #8 on: May 12, 2017, 07:59:34 AM »
Wow. Ouch bud. That's the worst I've ever seen


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1980 Bahner 21' Mini Day
1968 Rogers project

78hallett

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« Reply #9 on: May 12, 2017, 09:52:57 AM »
How does this type of damage to the impeller happen. I was always told that it doesn't actually touch the wear ring.


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woskie70

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« Reply #10 on: May 12, 2017, 09:56:28 AM »
How does this type of damage to the impeller happen. I was always told that it doesn't actually touch the wear ring.


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I'm pretty sure it got something stuck inside and that's what caused the damage. After so many years who knows. The crazy part is the boat still ran over 60 mph like this I don't know how but it did.


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woskie70

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« Reply #11 on: May 12, 2017, 09:58:27 AM »
Looks like the wear ring is still there. Take a torch to melt the insulator and remove the old wear ring and check for damage. Look at the vanes and the shaft also.


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The shaft is toast. But I will remove the wear ring next time I get back to work on it. The vanes are not to bad


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Flusher

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« Reply #12 on: May 14, 2017, 01:58:29 AM »
How does this type of damage to the impeller happen. I was always told that it doesn't actually touch the wear ring.


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This was caused by a thrust bearing failure.  Bowl pressure pushes forward on the impeller and shaft.  When the bearing failed, the impeller ate into the suction housing.
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

woskie70

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« Reply #13 on: May 14, 2017, 08:46:31 AM »
This was caused by a thrust bearing failure.  Bowl pressure pushes forward on the impeller and shaft.  When the bearing failed, the impeller ate into the suction housing.
So do you think I can still use this housing or should I start looking for a new one?


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Coldduck1

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« Reply #14 on: May 14, 2017, 09:17:02 AM »
Take it to someone, I thought mine was trashed but a lot of it was repairable. Saved me a lot of cash over finding a new one. 


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Flusher

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« Reply #15 on: May 14, 2017, 06:03:01 PM »
So do you think I can still use this housing or should I start looking for a new one?


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All housings get really thin between the hand hole cover bore and the wear ring bore.  If it hasn't worn all the way through, you could get a little more life out of it.

Just understand that even undamaged Berkeley housings are prone to cracking in this area.  Also, the efficiency will be down because internal leakage past the wear ring will increase.

To specifically answer your question, I would have to see it in person before I would agree to use that suction housing.   Then, your application needs to be considered.  If it is destined for a cruiser AND it is not too far gone, you could potentially get a lot of life out of it.  In a performance application, it is not a matter of IF, but WHEN it will crack.

HOWEVER, if it does crack, the wear ring will spin, damaging the impeller.  It could also flood the boat as water will leak behind the hand hole cover.

I would also check the thrust bearing bore for damage seeing how the bearing disintegrated.

If it were me, just replace the damaged or worn parts.
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

woskie70

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« Reply #16 on: June 01, 2017, 12:54:17 PM »
So the screws broke off in here does anyone know how I could get the stubs out or do I need to replace it?


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Flusher

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« Reply #17 on: June 01, 2017, 01:40:09 PM »
So the screws broke off in here does anyone know how I could get the stubs out or do I need to replace it?


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That's fairly common.  We drill those out more often than I would like.  Usually, while the intake is being cut for a shoe and ride plate, I cut them out and through tap for 5/16-18.  Every once in a while I need to install a threaded insert.  When someone tries to drill them out with a hand drill, they always need at least one threaded insert.  The bolts are much harder than the aluminum intake, causing drill bits to walk.

You are in luck, maybe you can grab them with vise grips after spraying with penetrating oil.  A little heat will go a long way too.

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Steveo909

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« Reply #18 on: June 01, 2017, 01:53:18 PM »
So the screws broke off in here does anyone know how I could get the stubs out or do I need to replace it?


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This happened to me. I bought a screw extractor (ez out) set from the hardware store and got them removed. If you have never used one it takes a little practice. You have to first flatten the broken screw with a dremel or grinder, drill a hole on the middle of the broken screw, then lightly tap the extractor with a hammer while turning counter clockwise. Follow up with a tap to clean threads.


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woskie70

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« Reply #19 on: June 13, 2017, 05:20:17 PM »
So I'm looking at replacing his water line. Does anyone know the size of the line going into the pump? Mine is frozen solid and I can't seem to get the valve part off. Also where do you find replacement parts?


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bahner80

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« Reply #20 on: June 13, 2017, 05:24:49 PM »
That's a half inch nipple probably 3 inch long the brass gate valve you can find at Home Depot or Ferguson Plumbing

mash on it

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« Reply #21 on: June 13, 2017, 05:58:40 PM »
So I'm looking at replacing his water line. Does anyone know the size of the line going into the pump? Mine is frozen solid and I can't seem to get the valve part off. Also where do you find replacement parts?


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Looks like 3/8" brass nipple to a 3/8" to 1/2" bushing, to 1/2" gate valve, then a short 1/2" nipple then a 1/2" to 3/4" bushing. I think.

Take the handle (and gate assembly) out of the valve body before you take out the brass nipple.

Do this upon re-assembly. (remove gate assembly)

Hope that helps.

Dan'l
CJ/RR 212...under construction  "Pistol Annie"

woskie70

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« Reply #22 on: June 19, 2017, 09:43:28 AM »
At the finishing stages of the pump replacement and was wondering what kind of silicone to use for the gap between the bowl and the transom


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sevans01

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« Reply #23 on: June 19, 2017, 10:11:15 AM »
At the finishing stages of the pump replacement and was wondering what kind of silicone to use for the gap between the bowl and the transom


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I think I used 3M 100% silicone when I put my pump together. Whatever brand you choose it needs to be 100% silicone


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woskie70

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« Reply #24 on: August 30, 2017, 11:30:12 PM »
Thank you all for the help on this thread. Got he boat out and running great this summer


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