Berkeley 12jg bowl seal

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87hardin

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« on: March 09, 2016, 07:14:51 PM »
Can i get some advice, my bowl seal is not holding the gear oil in the bowl I have the parts to replace it, bearings new seal. Can this be done with out removing the jet out of the boat. It a split bowl I see the bolts that hold the bowl inside the boat could I just remove the bolts and take the bowl off.  What should I be looking for when it's off and what kind of silicone should I use putting it back together oh all so have the gaskets for the bowl and nozzle. Thank you for the advice in advance.



GT Jets

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« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2016, 07:23:43 PM »
Pull the bowl,  you will need to cut the sealant between the bowl and the TA.

Also,  you might want to remove the TA.

Do you have a rigid framed seal or a soft one?

Do not use silicone on the gasket,  use High Tack or Hylomar. Use 100% silicone for the TA and the Bowl area.

Also,  glue the seal to the bowl with something like Permatex number two or Yamabond.

Be very careful putting it back together.

Good luck
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

87hardin

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« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2016, 07:39:41 PM »
Sorry, but what do you mean by rigid or soft frame seal. If your talking about were the bowl goes into the plate, it looks like sealant. Does gluing the seal help from it coming off?. I understand the being careful what should i be looking for.

Brian

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« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2016, 09:16:28 AM »
Keep in mind that the bowl seal isn't designed to keep the oil in the bowl. It's designed to keep the water out. Therefore the seal needs to be installed the correct way with the lip facing the impeller.

GT Jets

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« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2016, 10:05:40 AM »
Keep in mind that the bowl seal isn't designed to keep the oil in the bowl. It's designed to keep the water out. Therefore the seal needs to be installed the correct way with the lip facing the impeller.

It's actually a double lip seal. It's seals both ways but the tension spring does go on the outside facing the pressurized water.

I use a Clipper line cutting seal. They are designed with a stainless shroud that keeps the seal from being destroyed by crap that can get wrapped around the shaft. Like fishing line, weeds,  ropes, bags and whatnot.

The difference between the rigid framed seal and the soft seal is personal preference,  but the stainless steel framed ones I have had very good luck with.


GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

87hardin

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« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2016, 07:51:39 PM »
Thank you for that information Gt. Bought sleeve from GS marine and having the bowl machined by a local machine shop. Going to pull the rest of the pump out this weekend and see how much more stuff has to replace.

jim brock

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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2016, 09:35:59 AM »
I test every Berkeley bowl seal with a vacuum guage, plug I fill hole. install the vacuum guage in the other. pump to 20 let it sit for 15 or 20 min. should lose very little pressure,  if it goes down in 30 seconds you damaged it in assembly,

87hardin

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« Reply #7 on: March 18, 2016, 12:33:03 PM »
Thank you for that information Jim.

 


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