Removing Diverter arm bolts

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TrollerDave

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« on: July 29, 2008, 09:10:54 PM »

I hope the pic works, I borrowed it from one of Beerjet's post.
I need to get off the three bolts that attach the the arm to the diverter.
I tried the allen wrench and I can feel them starting to strip, one actually did.
Any tips or tricks? I thought Reid LBSuperjet posted with the same problem, but I
can't find it. I just looked through all the pages of the Jet Pump forum and can't find
anything similar.
I would like to do the least amount of damage as possible, I have been reading this forum
for a long time ;D



FORKEDUP

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« Reply #1 on: July 29, 2008, 09:23:06 PM »
make sure you are using the correct size allen key, nice tight fit, when trying to turn the allen key tap on it with a hammer, while holding pressure on the allen key (loosening), this will work like a impact driver, has worked for me in the past, just be patient and apply a little more pressure (twist) as you go, eventually the tapping/hitting should free the bolt.  hope this helps ;D
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beerjet

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« Reply #2 on: July 29, 2008, 09:24:10 PM »
The arm on the side or the tiller arm on top .

-beerjet-
i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

beerjet

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« Reply #3 on: July 29, 2008, 09:31:31 PM »
Yup I'm retarded .  :-\ I just did that the other day . They put some loc-tite shit on there and it's tough . If you can get them off , go back on with some anti-sieze and just make sure you check once in a while .

-beerjet-
i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

TrollerDave

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« Reply #4 on: July 29, 2008, 09:55:23 PM »
It's the arm on the side. The heads of the bolts are messed up so it is hard to
find an allen that fits "perfect" or even good. The last time the bolts were out
may have been when the diverter was installed, 25+ years ago.
tap on it with a hammer, while holding pressure on the allen key (loosening), this will work like a impact driver, has worked for me in the past, just be patient and apply a little more pressure (twist) as you go, eventually the tapping/hitting should free the bolt.  hope this helps ;D
I wanted to see if there were any tricks before I got busy with the hammer.
I usually start out patient and then if it doesn't go my way, bad things happen :mad:
 

LBsuperjet

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« Reply #5 on: July 29, 2008, 10:19:14 PM »
yo! yes i did...i gave up and took it to jack at MPD, and being the super nice guy that he is, drilled them out for free for me! dont expect the same, cuz he was really busy, and i wasnt in a hurry, so i just dropped the whole assembly off w/ him and said ill be back next week. he might charge you, but he did A VERY CLEAN JOB!....kept the same 1/4" threads and everything...hope this helps  ;D

Nice boat is nice!

TrollerDave

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« Reply #6 on: July 29, 2008, 10:28:49 PM »
I knew you posted about it, I just couldn't find it. I remember guys were telling to put
a torch to it and all kinds of stuff, but I couldn't remember how it turned out.
I just wanted to get some input before I "carefully" start banging and drilling
and end up like this-> :banghead:

jet boat performance

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« Reply #7 on: July 29, 2008, 10:31:10 PM »
Try a Heat gun (or hair good hot dryer) and a GOOD allen head bit ,otherwize its time for "drillin"  :banghead: call if I can help  Tom

LBsuperjet

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« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2008, 10:40:27 PM »
I knew you posted about it, I just couldn't find it. I remember guys were telling to put
a torch to it and all kinds of stuff, but I couldn't remember how it turned out.
I just wanted to get some input before I "carefully" start banging and drilling
and end up like this-> :banghead:
LOLZ!...yeah i know youre not real close to newport beach, but im sure jack, or even tom could help you out...i basically said 'fock it' cuz i didnt wanna screw it up then be $300 into some new parts haha

Nice boat is nice!

TrollerDave

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« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2008, 10:49:33 PM »
Thanks for the replies.
I'll see if I can get a heat gun.
Do guys think a couple of "shock" taps with a hammer would help or hurt the situation?
Tom, professional opinion?

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« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2008, 11:54:07 PM »
Ok, I know at least half of you guys are going to give me shit, but here goes anyway.

#1. Dont use Never Seize on anything that is not made of mild steel or cast iron, they also make a special formula for copper and brass, but is sucks, and is for extremely high temps.

#2. Dont use the "Allen keys", the little "L" shaped wrenches, first because you really can't get any torque on them without a "cheater" and second because they are frustrating as hell. Go and get yourself a descent quality (Proto, SK, Craftsman, or if your independantly wealthy Snap-On) of allen sockets, these have plenty of leverage and you can use them with a small pneumatic impact.

#3. When you have a bolt stuck in aluminum, especially stainless steel, there is a corrosion build up around the threads, you can turn that sucker until you turn blue, it's not coming off, stop, get a dead blow hammer (hard faced) and a brass drift punch and give it a few good smacks try again, if still a no-go, get the aluminum warm, but not hot enough to burn the paint (heat gun, Turbo Torch like used for soldering, or put the whole thing in the oven, but dont get it over about 350*F) then try again. Aluminum has a completely different expansion rate than steel, so this should work. If not you get to use a power tool.

#4. when its time to put it together, use the blue Locktite thread lock and sealer, but put a little dob on the end and at the head, this seals water out of the threaded area and prevents it from corroding. To remove, add a little heat and they will back right out.

#5. I always use the Red Loctite (high strength) when playing around with safety stuff like steering, a little harder to remove but good cheap insurance. Just remember to put it on both ends of the bolt.

Quik story;

I was a marine mechanic for over 15 years and would build at least 50-60 stern drives a year (OMC, Volvo, Mercruiser, Yamaha, etc.), I built one for a guy in the Salmon industry who had the drive rebuilt every year, he brought me his drive and it looked like it had been at the bottom of the ocean for twenty years, could hardly tell what it was.

So I tell him I have to do this thing on a T&M basis, and he was cool with it.

So i take about 10 hours to get this thing torn down, another half day to bead blast, sent to the powder coaters, installed and shimmed new bearings gears, and on and on, I give it back to him after two and a half weeks (he didn't think it was his) and told him to bring it back to me next year and I will go thru it for exactly half as much as I am charging you today, he just smiled, payed his tag and said deal....

He brought it back the next season lock clockwork and I had it done that night, that drive was torn down and clean in under two hours....I rebuilt that drive 14 times, he finally got a bigger boat...trust me this trick works every time.
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2008, 10:58:06 AM »
In a case like this when all else fails, before I'll drill, sometimes you can get them out by driving the next size larger allen socked into the stripped head. This will beat up the tool and wont work well with anything larger than an original 3/16" head bolt.  But the pounding and the solid grip will often get them out.   This is where its good to have a spare set of allen sockets ;D

Edit:  You may still end up drilling if you get the head to move but not the rest of the bolt

TrollerDave

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« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2008, 02:46:18 PM »
Ok, I know at least half of you guys are going to give me shit, but here goes anyway.

#1. Dont use Never Seize on anything that is not made of mild steel or cast iron, they also make a special formula for copper and brass, but is sucks, and is for extremely high temps.

#2. Dont use the "Allen keys", the little "L" shaped wrenches, first because you really can't get any torque on them without a "cheater" and second because they are frustrating as hell. Go and get yourself a descent quality (Proto, SK, Craftsman, or if your independantly wealthy Snap-On) of allen sockets

#3. When you have a bolt stuck in aluminum, especially stainless steel, there is a corrosion build up around the threads, you can turn that sucker until you turn blue, it's not coming off, stop, get a dead blow hammer (hard faced) and a brass drift punch and give it a few good smacks try again,

You sound like you done this before ;)

#1 What happens with anti seize in this situation (stainless and aluminum)?

#2 I just remembered about the sockets last night. I have to get a set. They make alot
     more sense than a "L" allen wrench.

#3 That is what I was wondering about in my other post.

by driving the next size larger allen socked into the stripped head. But the pounding and the solid grip will often get them out. 

Edit:  You may still end up drilling if you get the head to move but not the rest of the bolt

This is what I was considering. But have never done it before and I wondered if it would work
or just end up damaging the diverter.

Seperating the head from the bolt is exactly what I was trying to avoid. Been there, done that.

Thanks Guys.

GT Jets

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« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2008, 05:12:11 PM »
Never Sieze has Aluminum oxide (ground up aluminum), Zinc oxide (ground up zinc), and oil, sometimes they will use a soap material to thicken it up, (very common in grease), if you combine all those materials and put them in water, guess what happens if the oil "washes away", it corrodes.

BTW an allen bolt is made of Grade 8 steel, hard to drill with a hand held drill motor, possible just difficult, if you're pretty sure its gonna break, drill it while the head is still intact, this helps keep the bit centered and allows you to save the threads..
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #14 on: August 01, 2008, 10:26:09 AM »
Well 2 out of 3 ain't bad. The 2 still had a good enough head for the wrench to bite on.
But the wrench just spun on the 3rd. When I get time I'll see what I can do before I drill.

By the way, try using the proper tools before you go on the internet and look like a moron .
The hex head sockets made a HUGE difference.

 


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