wedge gaskets?

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Tomanyprojectz

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« on: May 29, 2012, 08:39:51 PM »
What's up everyone! Had a quick question. Previous owner installed a wedge with thick side up. Well theres one gasket and its between the wedge and nozzle. This gasket blew to pieces and i have water shooting up under acceleration.  Being a noob lets say I take the wedge off, do I need a gasket between the nozzle and I guess you would call bowl? With no water leaks? And if I leave the wedge on should there be two gaskets on both sides of the wedge? My pump is a dominator and I think its a early 12 s. No ribs where it say dominator. Hard to read but the only pump numbers I see under the inspection plate is 042393757... what dominator.actor do I have ??
 
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« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2012, 08:55:16 PM »
I got a Dominator pump too, don't know the model. If you're running a plastic wedge, you don't need gaskets.

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Tomanyprojectz

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« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2012, 09:29:37 PM »
Really! So i think I will remove the nozzle and  remove what's left of the gasket and reinstall with no gaskets. Oh and I will flip the wedge too.
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« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2012, 09:36:21 PM »
Really! So i think I will remove the nozzle and  remove what's left of the gasket and reinstall with no gaskets. Oh and I will flip the wedge too.

Spray the bridge and the cop driving 'cross it.

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« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2012, 09:41:48 PM »
Wedge might have been installed that way for a reason.  Possible porpoising issue or ski boat.   Do you have a droop, diverter or angled pin?

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« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2012, 09:53:30 PM »
Wedge might have been installed that way for a reason.  Possible porpoising issue or ski boat.   Do you have a droop, diverter or angled pin?

..or to lower thrust and accent the droop

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Tomanyprojectz

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« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2012, 10:05:32 PM »
This boat has a very bad problem getting squirrelly at high speeds. Lets say you had car lanes on a lake... you will be hauling ass and all of a sudden you change 3 lanes left or right sliding .then the boat grabs the water causing the boat to almost flip... yes I know it sounds crazy but very true. So the previous owner installed the wedge thinking keeping the bow down will help prevent left to right sliding. He also installed a bigger rudder or fin on the nozzle. All those did not help... pump does have a ride plate... seems to do it too with jetavator up. Last owner gave up. What do you think lol?
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« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2012, 10:10:19 PM »
Wedging nozzle downward creates leverage to lift bow.

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« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2012, 10:15:14 PM »
Interesting ....if you have your jetavator and its down the bow is tends to stay down... kinda acts like a trim tab right? Wouldn't the wedge so the same with thick side up? Not saying your wrong tho just learning here
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« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2012, 06:03:04 AM »
I should have said wedging the snoot down is what lowers thrust, not pointing nozzle down.

This is basic theory behind all droop snoots, lower thrust and get the boat out of the water.

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« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2012, 06:19:58 AM »
I should have said wedging the snoot down is what lowers thrust, not pointing nozzle down.

This is basic theory behind all droop snoots, lower thrust and get the boat bow of the boat out of the water.

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« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2012, 08:33:34 AM »
I have a small keel in front of my intake and by adding a straight snoot(with 4 degree pin) it seems to ride and steer well.

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« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2012, 02:50:24 PM »
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1994 ELIMINATOR FORMULA 454

Tomanyprojectz

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« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2012, 02:51:35 PM »
I guess u can't upload pics from phone... I will most pics of my setup later. What's a keel? A type of shoe or loader?
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« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2012, 07:08:47 PM »
I have a small bolt on skeg/fin in front of the intake grate. My hull once on plane would run very loose and porpoise even with fin but would steer okay. Now that I have the straight snoot(further thrust)....it runs/steers more solid and doesn't seem to bounce over chop.

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« Reply #15 on: May 30, 2012, 11:09:22 PM »
I guess u can't upload pics from phone... I will most pics of my setup later. What's a keel? A type of shoe or loader?

Don't quote me, but your keel is the bottom edge of your hull as far as I know.

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« Reply #16 on: June 02, 2012, 11:37:14 AM »
ok heres the pics of my pump, i just noticed that my "ride plate" if it is one is angled pretty far up? on a 19 formula should it be even or some what angled down? also, my steering wheel prob has 4 inches of play before it starts to turn the nozzle of the pump. to me that is not normal at all. what do you think? and my steering cable is a rotary type which i dont know if you can adjust. the problem with my boat is at high speeds it gets out of control left to right.* 2012-05-12_15-54-53_103.jpg (0 kB - downloaded 52 times.)
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« Reply #17 on: June 02, 2012, 11:49:31 AM »
also i have a water leak inside my boat from the steering tube through the plastic swivel on the transome, in the pics theres a little black rubber piece to help prevent water from going inside by boat from the outside, this black piece the only seal or is ther another?
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Tomanyprojectz

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« Reply #18 on: June 05, 2012, 09:53:03 PM »
I would like to replace the bowl gasket because its torn... I cannot decide if i want to keep the wedge yet... I'm leaning on keeping it with thick side down instead of up. So the steering nozzle is off... ride plate screws to bowl .. the ones you adjust ride plate are out... 6 of of 8 bowl bolts are loose and i I'm afraid of breaking something loosing the other two. These two bolts are the ones where the angle iron is to adjust ride plate. Should i loosen them and hope for the best? Opinions? Maybe there's thread lock on the bolts? all I know is I will have a heart attack if i brake the bowl or something
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« Reply #19 on: June 05, 2012, 11:27:33 PM »
Your ride plate should be 1 or 2* up in conjunction with keel to start with.

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« Reply #20 on: June 06, 2012, 02:12:55 PM »
That's the first Dominator insert pump I think I've seen. Pretty much the same as a Berk JE/JF but with a split bowl.

Ride plate looks a little "cranked way up" there to me, which probably isn't helping, but what kind of power you hitting this thing with?

One thing the regular style intakes have are stabilizing fins under the boat. The JE, and yours obviously, don't have those and can get quite squirrely when enough HP is applied. Berk used to make add-on fins that are attached to either side of the intake opening under the boat and bolted through the hull. Might be some floating around out there, but would probably sooner find an honest politician with the name Obama. So that's out without having someone like Nick whip up custom ones.

It does appear they were trying to force the bow down with that wedge, ride plate adjustment and probably ran the diverter down as well. This would actually inflate the problem, not correct it. This would force the bow down and effectively make the back of the boat feel "light". This isn't a car, it steers from it's ass, different physics and it's keester needs to remain firmly planted in the water. I would lower that rideplate so it is even with the keel to start, flip the wedge around as you planned, and play with diverter settings first. You'll probably end up with a sweet spot with the ride plate in the 1*-2* range up as already indicated before you are done. This is simply a try, test, try again, test again scenario, but sould get you a good starting point.

I would also consider a loader to replace that intake grate.

Ray

Edit: Tha tis a nylon wedge, should be grooved on mating surfaces and no gaskets needed. I habitually use a thin coat of sillycone, however.

   
« Last Edit: June 06, 2012, 02:19:09 PM by IRRebel »
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« Reply #21 on: June 06, 2012, 07:24:09 PM »
Very informative post irrebel thank you  :) .... being a first dominator this type would explain why it was hard for me to identify what I had being a noob. That was icing on the cake for me to get a loader and readjusting the ride plate and wedge.. the fins you mention is something I'm goin to look into. Once again thank you.... and thanks big Johnson for the reply as well :beer:
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Tomanyprojectz

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« Reply #22 on: June 06, 2012, 07:31:11 PM »
I forgot to mention its a stock mkv 454 from marine power... roughly 300 hp
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« Reply #23 on: June 06, 2012, 09:33:14 PM »
just got the bowl off,  some pictures below. besides gaskets torn at wedge, i also have a nice chunk of  gasket missing from the bowl... so very bad leaking wedge and a leak at the bowl = slipping clutch feeling? what about lost of top speed? last time out i just felt like i was really reving higher than usual to goooooo. and when i launched it, it took 15 minutes  just to move... i was at 3,000 rpms going no where and out of no where... slam! i go. like i droped the clutch  in a race car. after that the boat took off every time but still seemed like more throttle to go then it should. also...... i dont know the proper name for the shaft the impeller is on but i can feel grooves on it where it contacts the bushings in the nozzle, nothing to deep though where im concerned. and the blue ring thingy in the pump, what is that? wear ring? i lift up at the end of the shaft and theres play but def. less than 1mm. no unsual noise coming from pump either last time out. just no go... remember the boat has 90 hours on it..... in my opinion  90 hours is nothing so the odds of needing a pump rebuild is slim... but than again its a machine.... what makes it worst its a boat  ^-^.  the reason for the bowl coming off is to replace the gaskets that are leaking due to age. i hope fixing all the leaks will restore the go in it so i can experience my crazy left to right drifting again  :o. if it needs a rebuild it will be after summer season cuz im running it  :)
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