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Messages - 78Southwind

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1
Hulls / Re: Southwind by Gemcraft, "Limited Edition" ???
« on: September 15, 2017, 09:45:50 PM »
Yes, I believe you are right. I read some posts about company split, name copyright issues and stuff like that. Bummer. Yup, I tend to lean towards previous owner mod. The more I look at the skulls they are different.  Thank you.

I was just going to post what Tim (previous owner of Southwind's grandson) told us but I found his post pretty easy. So here goes...

Funny story....

My grandpa complained to fleet wood for taking that name. they ended up in court over it. the end decision was that they both could use the southwind name as a type or model, but not a manufacturing name, so it was southwind by fleetwood..southwind by jemcraft. the jemcraft had to be changed from jeNcraft. my grandpa's last name was Jennings, so he called it southwind by jencraft until a jeweler already had that name trademarked. so off to court he went and to piss off the jeweler he said, hell i will call it jeMcraft to use the jeweler as a pun. and there you have it..southwind by JEMCRAFT. there are still some early models out there with the jencraft name on the titles, don't worry, they are still the same..

3
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Nitrous Set-Up
« on: February 11, 2016, 06:28:48 PM »
I decided to move these posts so I can find them easier...

I got this in the mail a couple days ago. I am going to add a 175 HP shot.



78Southwind
What's the best way per cubic dollar to retard the timing? I currently have a 6M-2 box. I have been looking at the Programmable Timing Computer since it's a good price but it looks like you have to lock out your distributor. I really don't want to lock out the timing. So now I am leaning towards the Digital Retard Control or a 6 plus. Any other ideas?

Also, I want to use my claysmith fuel pump (14 to 16 psi) to fuel both the main fuel system and the nitrous fuel system. I am looking at running two fuel regulators and dead head them at 6/7 psi. I also want to run a fuel safety switch on the nitrous fuel system. For the electrical, I am going to run a toggle switch to arm the nitrous system then a microswitch set for full throttle and a nitrous push button. Yada Yada... So does this sound good?


capogniracing
Just went/going through the same thing. I was thinking of a msd-6425 ignition and a msd- 8970 retard. A magnafuel 500 pump running both regulators. And I'm still gonna have locked out timing and a crank trigger. I would love to go with the Msd 6520 and think this is the best dollar for dollar but I need to be able to retard atleast 11 degrees and the 6520 only is capable to retard 9.9 which would work great for your set up. And maybe run a seperate fuel pump for nitrous to avoid a possible lean out. That's my 2 cents.


78Southwind
Ok, so you have to lock out your timing on the msd- 8970 retard box too. If I am running a fuel safety switch to the solenoids (say set 6 psi) should I really have to worry about a lean condition?

capogniracing
Andy gave me a full lock out dizzy and with a safety switch I would think your good to go. Those clay smith are around 140gph right??


jyeager
6 lbs is good for the safety switch. Start with retarding 2 degrees for every 50 hp shot of nitrous. That will give you a good base line for tuning. 👍👍👍👍
I don't like using the same fuel pump for both nitrous and motor but that's me. I use a Holley blue for the nitrous side and now a aeromotive with a bypass for the motor side.


78Southwind
I can see using a separate fuel system for racing but it just doesn't make sense to me for play. If you're running a safety switch then the nitrous won't fire unless you've got good fuel pressure. Maybe I will do some more homework and see what I find. I plan on running 78/78 fuel and nitrous jets with a 6-8 retard. I am thinking about running one of my gunnel tanks with a mixture of 91/110 and just switch to that tank when I want to run a nitrous pass. Edelbrock says to use 92 octane pump gasoline or better with 175 HP shot.

jimpen
That jetting would be real fat.


78southwind
That's what came with the kit and what Edelbrock suggests.>>?

Flusher
What about when the fuel pressure drops as the demand increases after the N2O fires?


jyeager
I agree. i used the normal squared jetting 2 passes and dumped down the fuel side because it was so fat. It killed my plugs The recomended jetting from Edelbrock and NOS is a fat tune up for sure. Also spark plug gap plays a good role in the tune. :thumbup: :thumbup:


78Southwind
Interesting thanks...

4
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Rotella vs. VR1
« on: April 14, 2015, 08:36:30 PM »
i was just at autozone tonight to pick up VR1 50 wt, it wasn't on sale.... didn't realize it was a F-ing secret sale :sly:

It's so secret even the employees don't know about it and if you get a lazy employee who doesn't scan it you when you call them up you're screwed. :thumbdown:

5
Jet Pumps / Re: Pump Work
« on: March 17, 2015, 02:47:18 PM »
I read *BN*'s (Brian Neal) posts years ago and he said that all that was needed was 1/16" down on the cavitation plates and it cured his problem. He actually gained speed but his porpoise was much worse than mine but his speed was a lot higher than mine too (88 MPH). I don't think he ever took it back to the track but at the river he posted a gain of somewhere around 5 or 6 MPH. He probably only gained a couple MPH since he was at the river and probably GPSing down river.

Squitcha? (Dan) posted that he ended up at 1/8 down on the cavitation plates and it cured his problems. However, he never GPSed his boat after the installation so who knows if he gained, lost or broke even.

I have only GPSed my boat at the river until this last test. I usually ran 78 MPH down river and 72 up river. So I figured that the current must of been around 3 MPH giving me an honest 75 MPH speed. When I tested at Lake Elsinore last week it ran 70 MPH. So that's where I am getting my data. I am probably going to run it at the river before I make the changes.

I am trying to only make one change at a time so i won't make any other changes until the plates are machined and then I will go from there.

With all that said, what are your guys opinions of getting the plates closer between 1/16" to 1/8" of down? I would think that it would create less drag allowing the boat to ride on less wetted area. Possibly finding a happy medium between ride quality and speed.

6
The No Wake Zone / Re: What did you do to your boat today?
« on: February 13, 2015, 09:56:30 PM »
Cool, Gary said you bought one. I saw it on DJ.

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