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Messages - IRRebel

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The No Wake Zone / Re: Anyone use a boat trailer lock?
« on: July 26, 2013, 08:38:37 AM »
Pits aren't scary or mean dogs...Media makes them out to be attack dogs. Been bit by a few dogs but never a bully breed. Best insurance is everything you have to protect your investment. I raised my fence to 8' and added carpet tack strip along the top edge, 4 dogs, cams, guns and various things inside prop....Don't have a sign that states beware...must read enter at own risk, dog on duty and smile your on camera.

Never thought about carpet tack strips........Wonder if that'd work for keeping strange women that keep waking up here out of my master bathroom???   ^-^


Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: D@mn 455
« on: May 29, 2013, 11:11:03 AM »
Sounds fine to me. 50 wt is gonna carry more static pressure than normal and the thing I noticed running the VR-1 in my old Biesemeyer's 460, it was pretty damn consistent pressure across the RPM range. Hot/cold didn't seem to matter. It had been running 10w30 Castrol before I bought it, but the idle oil pressure worried me (10-15 psi or so hot) so when I changed it, I went "all in" with the VR-1/50. Old, tired motor, figured it could use a little love and tenderness......   :screwy:

Now, that being said, understand that excessive oil pressure is back pressure of oil that is having trouble, too heavy, or can't get into where it's being pumped to go. On a fresh engine, these are normal numbers. As things loosen up and wear in (Bearings, mainly) pressure will subside a tad. You're not to the excessive point.

Your numbers aren't abnormal by any stretch. I'd stop worrying about the number and pick an oil and stick with it knowing what normal pressure range is using it. Changing to different oils constantly is another recipe for disaster.   ;)


Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Distributor advice / BBF 460
« on: May 21, 2013, 12:04:21 AM »
I'm on the Unilite bandwagon here as well. With a Hyfire box.   :thumbup: :beer:


Events / Re: Big River Fathers Day Weekend 2013
« on: May 19, 2013, 10:33:27 PM »
Oh don't tell me sold out........Vacation time requested......this early? really?


WarZone / Re: GT izms
« on: May 14, 2013, 10:58:36 PM »
Glenn, I thank god I know you every day!

LOL! IT's such a shame the only ones who realize what a great person your are, well....are US!!!!   :thumbup: :beer: :thumbup: :beer:


Jet Pumps / Re: ANY help on this jet and I would be very grateful.
« on: April 29, 2013, 09:34:43 AM »
Don't forget the guitar string...


Sent from my SGH-T989 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app

This ^^^ was the most brilliant idea I had ever heard! Makes any future teardown a snap!  :thumbup:

But if it is an o-ring seal between the transom adaptor and the bowl, don't grease it, don't use Vaseline or any other petroleum based product. It'll eat that rubber alive. Use Silicone Lube (You can get small containers of it at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc, larger tubes of it from any Pool Supply for about $7. If you have a pool, it's the same stuff you use on the pump basket cover  ;)  )

If it's just a bead of silicone, use a good  marine silicone that comes in a caulking tube, not the Kitchen and Bath stuff........If the TA had a gasket to the hull, I wouldn't bother with a new one, Just silicone it on as well. Now the guitar string GT mentioned, before you Silicone bead around the bowl, wrap a Guitar string (round wound G string works best) around there, all the way around, and pull it through it's ball end at the top of the bowl, then stuff it up in there as far as you can, cinched tight. Then Silicone bead over it. If you ever have to remove the bowl or TA adaptor again, just yank on the guitar string, Silicone gone!  ;) Can even remove the bowl without removing the TA most of the time!!


The No Wake Zone / Re: son in law needs your help getting nascar ride
« on: April 15, 2013, 09:58:16 AM »

Is Jimmy Johnson soon to be known as the "other kid from El Cajon?"......... 8)


Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: How fast should it be?
« on: April 10, 2013, 08:34:32 AM »
I'd be with GT on this. 21', open bow, great pleasure craft, that does 55 MPH....I'd leave the focker alone and maintain it!!!!!

First, maintain it and keep it working, you see the threads on here how many of us are rebuilding or blowing $hit up???

A 21' heavy ass, open bow, boat to your target MPH is a VERY big order. And you're gonna burn through equipment to do it like I burn through a bottle of "Cabo".

Can't get half nekkid, bikini-clad women in a non-running boat in the driveway...............


The No Wake Zone / Re: your first ride
« on: January 22, 2013, 07:38:31 AM »
First ride was a beat up '73 Dodge Club Cab 4x2 pops gave me......Slant 6 with "three on the tree".....Loved that truck, couldn't break it no matter how stupid I tried. Damn thing is probably still running out there somewhere...... Tailgate was held on by bungee cords, later built a flat bed for it out of 4x6's that out-weighed the truck, but that's another story.......In my Junior year in HS I bought a '73 Nova SS (Somewhere Mom has pictures of it....never made it out of primer/bad brown original paint before I wrecked it). It was blown up when I bought it ($300 at the time). So I made a deal for a 427 from the guy we used to get engines from for pops dump trucks, etc, rebuilt it and threw a tunnel ram on it and a 12 Bolt rear....and a few months later drove it through a Beer Distributor store street racing when an axle broke.........Problem was, is wasn't open at the time......Fitting, I guess. Did fix it and sell it later to fund the '69 Firebird 400 Convertible I drive for a few years later......sold that to fund Divorce #1, and regretted doing so ever since.

First New car was an '89 Turbo Grand Prix. Had previously bought my wife (At the time) a Grand Am with a Quad-4 (VERY under rated engine, DAMN that thing would run!) and needed sumpin' faster. Quad-4 Grand Am was STILL faster, if you must know......1/4 mile time slips here to prove it here somewhere, but ex-wife handed me my ass at Quaker City Drag Strip 3 out of 4...... ;)


Dave's boat is beyond immaculate!

My daughter won't even be seen in or near mine when Dave's around. She rides in the Root Beer Float!  :sly:

That being said, old LT had pics of Moo and Ruger in the Moo boat....that lasted, Once, until just outside the NWZ st Bartlett Lake when I hit the throttle. Moo crawled clean up under the bow shaking like an Epileptic and Ruger (puppy then) bit and pee'd on Becca trying to do the same........

So much for water dogs that won't stay out of the pool..........  :screwy:


WarZone / Re: Vegas hospital
« on: January 11, 2013, 08:34:06 PM »
Yeah I got released yesterday so now I'm home relaxing with my big bottle of pain pills.. Lol


Now, you know how on the bottle it says 'Alcohol may intensify the effect" ?? 

It DOES!!! ;)


The No Wake Zone / Re: Looking for a good but cheap tow vehicle
« on: December 26, 2012, 05:57:00 PM »
X2 on the 4x4. Even with a locker in the rear, my friends sometimes have trouble on some ramps. Not to mention the fact there are many places you can avoid ramp hassles altogether and launch from the beach.  :thumbup:

I kinda liken buying a boat towing truck or SUV in 4x2 much like having a vasectomy and only getting one nut clipped......It ain't helping you much on savings when later on it potentially costs you a fortune and you wind up getting done what shoulda been done in the first place.

I remember my buddy towing my 21' Biesemeyer down the windey cliff to get into Bartlett Lake and the brakes on his Xterra a glowin and smokin........ I guess the surge brakes on the trailer weren't adjusted up or working enough for him. I towed it easily all the time with an F350, which is a bit of overkill, but personally anything less than 3/4 ton won't work well with some of our rigs. 

The No Wake Zone / Re: My kinda flatbottom
« on: November 27, 2012, 11:34:32 PM »
MY GAWD I thought you had a picture of my dad for a second there!

Somewhere, Mom has a pic of pops running my uncles boat he built out at Gilford Lake in Ohio. Basically a 12' aluminum rowboat he put a twin cylinder Wisconsin engine in midship. THEN made a propshaft etc from an old V-Drive and set it up to steer like an airplane with a pedal on each side of the motor.

Was cool, I get it, but was a solution to a non-problem. My dad thought it was the coolest thing ever. So when I put a tunnel rammed 427 in my '73 Nova SS, imagine my surprise how pissed he was after taking it to work one day when his truck was dead.

I thought I was being nice letting him take it......................Never did THAT again.

WarZone / Re: Be aware
« on: November 27, 2012, 08:46:50 PM »
Assuming that the story is much as you describe at the beginning of this thread, what do you expect Daniel to say?   Most of you who have actually met him, feel favorably towards him, so it stands to reason that his life is going a bit sideways.  He apparently doesn't think anything he says to a group of guys on the interweb, is going to help him in any way.   He knows where is.  One day he will surface and explain but hoping it happens soon isn't gonna help much.    Bummer but it is what it is.   Until it isn't.   Ya know?

Y'know what John? That's EXACTLY what it is, methinks. And you've met him too, I beleive.

But I don't think it's something that likely needs to be shared here, but at LEAST with Harry!


The No Wake Zone / Re: Presidential election
« on: November 06, 2012, 08:37:46 PM »
we need to pray if romney wins cuz we will be folkered

Looks like we're screwed again for 4 years!

Not that Romney was much better, mind you, but I think he woulda done less damage and repaired some of the damage already begun. Obama already knows the game and how to really screw the country up now.


Engine Mechanical / Electrical / question on Blowers (6-71 etc)
« on: October 06, 2012, 07:34:24 PM »
Now, I'm not a newb at these. and maybe this is best reserved to ask EngineDoctor, Lakesonly, and Obnoxios001 directly, but I thought the question relevant enough that the masses opinion may be valuable.

I recently sold this cat a great deal on a Teflon Stripped 8-71 blower and shipped it to him in Australia. It wasn't a cheapo Weiand, Dyers, BDS or Blower Shop unit either, a real Kuhl unit and fresh. This is going in a weekend drag car and week day/off-season cruiser that will be used OFTEN.

Anyway, he's in the middle of a 540" or so Chebbie build and wants to do this right. He asked me what I thought about rods, pistons, rings choices etc and that is a lot opinion based, y'all can throw what you think, his "mates" are telling him all billet, but my advice was this. Tell me if I'm wrong.

"Forged pistons are a must, and quality, cleaned and beburred paramount for your build. There is some question as to whether forged  factory or similar rods or billet I or H-beams are the order of the day because we do not know the pressures of boost involved, OD ratios, etc, let alone the quality of Aussie Hi-Test gasolines. My personal opinion is this. QUALITY forged I-Beam rods will out perform and out last the best of the best of "billet" I-Beam or H-beam rods on a year to year, mile for mile, cruiser/weekend racer build. ANY Forged steel crankshaft will outperform and out last ANY custom billet crankshaft. End of story, always, no one has proven me wrong yet.

Again, my personal opinion is that while the billet stuff, in Drag racing or other, and is replaced after every run, MAY be physically stronger (I seriously doubt that, just CHEAPER to make more of them), but replacing those in those circles is nothing, and WEAR is a matter they never even remotely see, whereas for you and me? A HUGE deal! I don't beleive, never have, that a billet crank or rods needs to be involved in any Street or Marine application. Nor does aluminum. Racing? those guys have almost unlmited budgets and yes, on paper and a 2 million dollar Rockwell Hardness machine their stuff MAY be "Stronger", but not "Harder" to take wear and tear. Meaning they can throw more HP at it for shorter periods, then replace everything and do it again next weekend. We, the "normal people" cannot, and will not do that." 


Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: Sander question
« on: July 19, 2012, 08:24:30 PM »
For working on paint or ESPECIALLY gel, This little guy is what you want!

It's a Hutchins water bug. Air operated, and has built in garden hose conection/regulator! make quick work out of it!  ;)

Bought this puppy for RJ! He ain't seen it yet.   :thumbup:

The No Wake Zone / Re: my finger
« on: July 16, 2012, 01:27:34 AM »
As observant as all you should be ..... I'm not the gentleman in the picture.
My hands always smell like hookers and cocaine.  :o


I was biting my lip to NOT reveal that piece of information!


Mini Jets / Re: looking for another mini hull
« on: July 04, 2012, 08:01:38 AM »
You're about to become a parent, WHY are you trying to hurt yourself?  ;D


Trailers / Re: trailer tires
« on: July 02, 2012, 08:52:21 AM »
 I disagree, and am with Crewcheif. I only use trailer tires (And have never had a failure, like anything else, they need to be maintained, checked, armor-all'd, etc), and I trailer an hour at minimum, normally 3+ hours to get to water at freeway speeds (75MPH here in Arizona).

Reason being, car tires are designed to give better ride and control in many varying conditions, even at high speed such as the forces of accelerating and stopping, turning, etc. Trailer tires do not need most of this. What they need, and do, is much stronger sidewalls (You're gonna curb 'em far more often, and stress/tear up the sidewalls on tandems or triples particularly just cornering), and their "ply" construction and ratings are real because they are bias ply tires, and harder compounds to absorb more heat, and induce less wear and tear since they are usually quite a bit smaller in diameter than you're car/truck tires. THUS, they spin much faster and much more often per mile.

Trailer tires are typically 6 or 8 bias ply in light trailers. Radial tires are normally 2 ply plus a steel belt (not counted as an actual ply), and the "ply" rating on them is a "strength equivalent"  abbacus computation to compare them directly to bias ply tires because the DOT requires it. Whether that number is accurate or not is not the point. If you doubt this, next time you replace your $600 each Heavy Duty 12 ply rated off road truck tires, cut one open with a sawzall. I think you'll be surprised. Load ratings are another thing that are completely different and you cannot directly compared between trailer tires and passenger car/light truck tires.

The biggest complaint, and legit, on trailer tires when they fail is because they just "flew apart". That's usually not the case. These tires RARELY wear out, on the tread side of things and besides looking at that, air pressure, and weather checking, noone pays any attention to them. There are date codes on these things (there's a website to tell you where and how to check that), and it's very common to find tires 5-10 years out of useable date. I have project boats here that I KNOW the tires on the trailers are original from as far back as 1976, still hold air, plenty of tread left, look decent, and I wouldn't tow them down the street to the Circle K. The rubber compounds degrade over time, through heat, UV light, alien intervention, whatever.

18 wheeled tractor trailers or any heavy truck still use bias ply, know why now?


PS, some reading for ya

WarZone / Re: FUBAR Knees...Who's got em?
« on: June 07, 2012, 07:51:00 PM »
Mine are bad too. Cindy said that was from all the begging and pleading beside the bed and considering it foreplay....... :sly:


Jet Pumps / Re: wedge gaskets?
« on: June 06, 2012, 02:12:55 PM »
That's the first Dominator insert pump I think I've seen. Pretty much the same as a Berk JE/JF but with a split bowl.

Ride plate looks a little "cranked way up" there to me, which probably isn't helping, but what kind of power you hitting this thing with?

One thing the regular style intakes have are stabilizing fins under the boat. The JE, and yours obviously, don't have those and can get quite squirrely when enough HP is applied. Berk used to make add-on fins that are attached to either side of the intake opening under the boat and bolted through the hull. Might be some floating around out there, but would probably sooner find an honest politician with the name Obama. So that's out without having someone like Nick whip up custom ones.

It does appear they were trying to force the bow down with that wedge, ride plate adjustment and probably ran the diverter down as well. This would actually inflate the problem, not correct it. This would force the bow down and effectively make the back of the boat feel "light". This isn't a car, it steers from it's ass, different physics and it's keester needs to remain firmly planted in the water. I would lower that rideplate so it is even with the keel to start, flip the wedge around as you planned, and play with diverter settings first. You'll probably end up with a sweet spot with the ride plate in the 1*-2* range up as already indicated before you are done. This is simply a try, test, try again, test again scenario, but sould get you a good starting point.

I would also consider a loader to replace that intake grate.


Edit: Tha tis a nylon wedge, should be grooved on mating surfaces and no gaskets needed. I habitually use a thin coat of sillycone, however.


The No Wake Zone / Re: SCJB History Quiz
« on: June 05, 2012, 09:33:52 AM »


Not that I'll win, I just think Brad finally has a sense of humour about it, lol.


WTB / Re: Looking for a cheap tunnel ram
« on: June 01, 2012, 03:04:15 PM »
If the price is right I could go that way. Send me a pm with all the goodies. :-) more than likely I can't afford it but it never hurts to have a goal in mind.

LOL! I hear that! Trust me, I'll take care of you on the drive/intake stuff. You got stuck with a manifold you didn't/couldn't use for whatever reason. THAT is by far and away the cheap part of a jet boat blower motor, my brother. BUT, you shoulda bought the brand new 6-71 Weiand complete kit I had for sale last summer for $2500!

Some apple pie, some beers, we can outline what you SHOULD do to acheive that FD weekend! Even if it is a Chebbie, I'll leave all the Ferd hats at home since I'm bringin an Olds..........


Dont run the valley pan and the center holes are the when and u don't need them the gasket Will block them fine if it makes u feel better about It u could cut it out but i wouldn't its smog shit and not needed

X2. Don't cut the center holes out and stay away from the valley pan dealio. They are notorious for sealing problems causing milkshakes. The pic of the ones you were looking at are fine, Felpro Permaseals even better.

Somewhere, Don't remember if it's on this site or another, but Barry (obnoxious001) has a great step by step post on intake manifold installation. If I find it, I'll link it here for ya, but just remember to use Gaskacinch around the ports, and wipe some clear gasket silicone around the water jacket ports. Yes, both sides of the gasket, and I do the heads and mani also. I also throw the rubber end gaskets away and use the same gasket silicone (In a caulking gun) to lay down a nice thick bead on the ends instead of those things. If you're gonna use them, then the same thing, wipe some silicone on them, the block, mani and a little bead above and below them on the corners to help them seal.


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