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Messages - jyeager

Pages: [1] 2 3
1
Jet Pumps / Re: Switching to studs
« on: April 15, 2015, 07:49:28 PM »
You can buy a piece of thread bar stock an cut them to you liking for less... Good hardware stores carry em.

2
Jet Pumps / Re: Switching to studs
« on: April 10, 2015, 10:25:58 AM »
Red. Locktite 262 or equivalent.

JMO.

3
Boat Racing / Re: Lucas oil colorado river challenge Parker AZ
« on: April 01, 2015, 08:42:39 PM »
I'll be there Jake!!!! Hope to see you out there


SRC


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4
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Carb question
« on: April 01, 2015, 06:26:41 PM »
Put a vacuum gauge on a manifold vacuum source and monitor it while you are making a full-throttle pass for a minimum of 12 seconds at WOT.  If the vacuum is high, you could gain from the increase in CFM.  If the vacuum is low, you are not taking full advantage of the CFM that you have now.

Post your findings and then a better educated guess can be made regarding CFM.

5
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Cleaning ceramic coated headers
« on: March 31, 2015, 04:25:31 PM »
So just as my luck would have it, first run out with freshly coated headers at elsinore yesterday, the bitchin elsinore trash bag they give you with your lake pass caught some wind and decided to lay its self perfect on the top of my header. Immediately was able to wipe some of it off but a lot of it was burnt on already. Just tried Scotch brite in a little spot which was a mistake. Anyone have any bitchin ways to clean this up? Was considering oven cleaner ornsomethin like that. Thanks in advance!
  Run them without water and burn off all you can.  When you have completed that use mothers and polish them back up.

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6
Jet Pumps / Re: Pump Work
« on: March 17, 2015, 02:47:18 PM »
I read *BN*'s (Brian Neal) posts years ago and he said that all that was needed was 1/16" down on the cavitation plates and it cured his problem. He actually gained speed but his porpoise was much worse than mine but his speed was a lot higher than mine too (88 MPH). I don't think he ever took it back to the track but at the river he posted a gain of somewhere around 5 or 6 MPH. He probably only gained a couple MPH since he was at the river and probably GPSing down river.

Squitcha? (Dan) posted that he ended up at 1/8 down on the cavitation plates and it cured his problems. However, he never GPSed his boat after the installation so who knows if he gained, lost or broke even.

I have only GPSed my boat at the river until this last test. I usually ran 78 MPH down river and 72 up river. So I figured that the current must of been around 3 MPH giving me an honest 75 MPH speed. When I tested at Lake Elsinore last week it ran 70 MPH. So that's where I am getting my data. I am probably going to run it at the river before I make the changes.

I am trying to only make one change at a time so i won't make any other changes until the plates are machined and then I will go from there.

With all that said, what are your guys opinions of getting the plates closer between 1/16" to 1/8" of down? I would think that it would create less drag allowing the boat to ride on less wetted area. Possibly finding a happy medium between ride quality and speed.

7
Jet Pumps / Re: Pump Work
« on: March 17, 2015, 02:38:11 PM »
If you install a more aggressive loader, the leading edges might hang down below keel.  Sure it will load the pump harder, but it will stick the boat to the water and scrub off speed.  Loading the pump is a balancing act with drag.  More load = more drag.  The question becomes, did the change make the boat quicker/faster?  As the setup becomes more aggressive, the drag increases; but the pump loads harder, creates more thrust, and performance increases.  That is until you go too far and the drag increases more than performance.  The only way to really get your float optimized is to test and monitor, make one change at a time and repeat.

There is a compromise to the performance gains.  Once you start going faster, the shutdown becomes more dangerous.

8
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 468 or 496?
« on: February 09, 2015, 07:49:39 AM »

I think your motor makes 810 or 820. 👍👍😝😝😝 how big is the cam in that thing btw?
What It all comes down to is money. If your building one from the ground up I would go with a 496 for sure.


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. Not 100% sure I will be meeting with Bostick next week and I will let you know big NOS cam is all I know.


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9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 468 or 496?
« on: February 08, 2015, 09:03:22 PM »
Do stroker motors tend to have more torque?
Don't know why I think that, probably read it somewhere.  :o

10
I can't wait for this event, got the room booked Friday til Sunday. This will be the first time the new boat will get to see the river. Never stayed at bluewater before but if it's anything like the avi it should be a blast!

Larry

11
Events / SCJB 2015 Event Schedule
« on: January 19, 2015, 05:01:16 PM »
The following dates and locations are planned** for this year's SoCalJetBoats.com events....
March 27-29 Parker, AZ @ The Bluewater http://www.socaljetboats.com/events/2015-scjb-season-kick-off-bluewater-parker-az-march-27-29/
May 9-11 Laughlin, NV @ The Avi (Mothers Day Weekend) Group Rate info TBD!
June 19-21 Big River, CA (Fathers Day Weekend) www.socaljetboats.com/events/fathers-day-big-river-2015/
August - The Avi, August 22nd
September Southwind Regatta, Blythe, CA: Sept 19th
October Laughlin, NV @ Big Bend State Park: http://www.socaljetboats.com/events/annual-scjb-2015-fall-get-together/

**Dates and Locations are subject to change.

12
WTB / Hallett mini day
« on: January 17, 2015, 06:37:55 PM »
Ok guys looking for a hallett mini day. Preferably less motor and pump. If anyone has one or can steer me towards one I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks


"RTCP"

13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Another milky oil thread ...
« on: January 16, 2015, 10:24:37 AM »
Your plan will be a good starting place. Does it have a big cam?


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14
Projects / Re: 1978 Daytona 19 project
« on: January 13, 2015, 11:26:32 PM »

Why didn't you do a set back while Chris (Joe ^-^) was doing the bottom? Just curious.

It has already been set back.  It could be set back further but we talked about the cost to do versus the benefit of moving it back the remaining little bit and it just didn't add up.

15
That would be:

Embee Coating
2100 Ritchey Street
Santa Ana, CA 92705
714-546-6907

Jeff, Tiki on the forums and NJBA racer, is manager there.  They have a lot of experience in coating parts for jet boats (particularly what to NOT blast and coat).  Having them do my headers was some of the best $ I have ever spent.

Cheers,

Joe

16
and gel will not dry over epoxy.

100% complete myth.

I have been doing it since 1996. The problem is that the mixing ratio of the epoxy used has to be dead nuts and completely cured before polyester products are introduced.

I have made several fairly large repairs on old and newer boats using West Systems and the Tap Plastics epoxies. Never one time did I have an adhesion issue or a gel coat repair problem.

The issue has to do with the hardener off gassing if it was mixed too "fat". The ratio on epoxy resins is an exact science, very different from polyester.

As long as the ratio's were correct (I use a paint mixing scale) and the epoxy is fully cured, you can block sand, clean and directly apply poly gel coat as a finish. The advantage IMHO is that there is zero "shrinkage" on the epoxy resins unlike that of polyester. So no bleed through will ever be realized.

Not a poke, just laying down some facts....  ;)

GT

17
Jet Pumps / Re: Set back or not?
« on: January 04, 2015, 11:15:21 AM »
The setback provides greater leverage on the thrust point which provides more lift and less drag.

I did this one a few months ago.  It was designed to handle both big power and less.  The pump was set back as far as possible without cutting through the transom.  An inch of keel was left just in front of the wood transom.  The rear flange of the intake was shortened to half-way through the last two intake bolts that attach through the fiberglass.  The intake was pushed back until the back of the ramp of the short turn radius just touched the wood for the transom cutout.  We feel it should have had a full setback which places the hand hole cover fully outside of the transom, but the owner wanted the extra rigidity to prevent the epoxy from cracking.  For this setback, a box was machined out of aluminum to seal around the inside of the hand hole cover, which is removable from the outside.

The engine was moved forward so that the @$$ wouldn't drag, providing better balance.  It will be a tight fit, but the original upholstery will be retained. The Jet-a-way is there for ease of disconnecting the drive line for running the engine while on the trailer and a longer drive line is used.

On mine, I do not have the room to move the engine forward.  I don't want to cut the floor or give up space around the back seats.  There should be enough room to leave the engine in its original location and do a full setback to where I can squeeze in a Jet-a-way and have the hand hole cover completely outside of the transom should I want to install a blow-off valve.

Cheers,

Joe

18
Projects / Re: new/old Daytona
« on: December 30, 2014, 07:23:16 AM »
We will be testing at Aha quin this weekend.

19
Projects / Re: new/old Daytona
« on: December 13, 2014, 08:35:25 PM »
Yes. Same boat but a few years back. It looks way better now.

That was my favorite sounding engine at Lake Ming NJBA.  I was helping with the 017 Place Craft two spaces down.

I love the cam-actuated throttle and I couldn't get over the 73% overdriven PSI.  The blower pulley barely fit over the snout and I swear the crank pulley was at least 10" diameter.

Wish I would have asked what range of drive ratios do they take with them to track?

Cheers,

Joe

20
Boat Racing / Re: Speed Chart
« on: December 10, 2014, 02:17:19 PM »
There's always somebody faster!!!!
But I do love doing that racing thing with you and your family Jake. It's expensive I could never afford it. But I can live my racing dreams through you. GOOD TIMES !!!
As long as I have my little hot rod boat to get my blood flowing  is good enough for me. 👍👍👍


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21
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Fuel Problem???
« on: December 04, 2014, 07:39:51 AM »
What kind of ignition coil? Sounds like a coil is dropping.

Might try a spare coil.

Water was my first thought, or a collapsing fuel line on the intake side of the fuel pump.

GT

22
Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: Wtb: tunnel ram
« on: November 21, 2014, 01:00:41 PM »
Nope no blowers, need room for the kids in the back seat

sent from my garage drinkin cold ass coors light


23
Events / SoCalJetBoats Vol. 2 DVD Release Party!
« on: November 17, 2014, 10:58:14 AM »
Yes it was. I think I will take the stairs from now on. I was not stuck in the elevator but it was funny. I am glad that no one got hurt.


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24
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Let's stir the pot
« on: November 17, 2014, 09:15:23 AM »
read this:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/03/bearing-clearances/

boat motors are almost always used high rpm in varying temperature conditions.  cars and other race applications might always see constant temperatures and mild rpms, thus tighter tolerances. 

25
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Let's stir the pot
« on: November 17, 2014, 02:05:55 AM »
I heard a good one this weekend.  “Experience comes from opinions and opinions are formed by experience.”

One thing I have learned is to pick ONE expert who’s opinion you value and listen to only that person.  If you pick and choose from different opinions, you will usually end up with a lot of mix-matched useless parts.

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