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Messages - Jetaholic

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1
Jet Pumps / Re: Wanting to install wedge on pump
« on: July 09, 2009, 03:10:37 PM »
So in other words, they are commonly used as "band-aids" to cover up other issues that could be corrected by other means?

2
Jet Pumps / Re: want a split bowl...
« on: July 08, 2009, 10:24:51 AM »
I'm sure Tom at Jet Boat Performance can help. 805-466-4719

3
Jet Pumps / Re: want a split bowl...
« on: July 08, 2009, 10:19:51 AM »
OK then more than likely it's one that water lubricates.

Should be a direct swap. If the bowl is used I would recommend changing out the bowl bushings and shaft seals.

4
Jet Pumps / Re: want a split bowl...
« on: July 08, 2009, 10:04:46 AM »
Dominator split bowl is what I have. Ive been told that it is no problem to put onto my berk.

Not at all. Now is it the old style bowl where the back bearing water lubricates, or the new one that uses the grease zerk on the hub of the bowl where the droop goes?

5
Jet Pumps / Re: want a split bowl...
« on: July 08, 2009, 09:47:13 AM »
I am also, doing the same thing with a JC pump. Any help and and info would be great. I am also installing a droop snoot to.

What kind of bowl are you putting on (make)?

6
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: friends rogers jetboat
« on: July 08, 2009, 09:26:35 AM »
I buy it. Max MPH and max RPM are a reflection of hull weight and how it's riding, hardware setup, hydrodynamic design of the hull, pump efficiency, etc etc. My 18' Marlin with an AB impeller GPSed 79 @ 5400RPM last season and is now at 77 with an A impeller turning 5200-5300 RPM. That's with no shoe or rideplate.

Also from what I've read, Rogers boats have very good bottom designs so it's totally doable.

7
Jet Pumps / Re: How to check the bearing in berk.
« on: July 08, 2009, 09:22:32 AM »
You gotta think...that bearing not only has to deal with rotational force, but there's also hundreds of pounds of bowl pressure pushing on the back of the impeller. Since the shaft/impeller assembly is "suspended" from the thrust and tail bearings (with some support from the packing), that bowl pressure also is being applied to that thrust bearing as well. Kinda makes you wanna put the race bearing in doesn't it?

8
Jet Pumps / Re: want a split bowl...
« on: July 08, 2009, 09:19:17 AM »
Bowls are interchangeable. I have a JC as well but got an American Turbine split bowl from JBP a couple years ago. The cool thing about AMT bowls is that in the area where you'd normally put a stuffer, AMT has a machined area there. AMT makes impellers specifically for these bowls that has a wear ring skirt on the backside of the impeller that rides in that machined area, in effect acting like a built in stuffer.

Here's a vid of my boat running with an AMT split bowl and an Aggressor droop.


9
Jet Pumps / Re: Plumbing
« on: July 08, 2009, 08:28:34 AM »
I use Propless's setup as well. Simple and it works. Plus, you never have to worry about capping it off.

X2 on the 2sav jabbing Jeff!  ;D

10
Jet Pumps / Re: Wanting to install wedge on pump
« on: July 08, 2009, 08:11:09 AM »
This isn't why you run a wedge.

Not word for word, but verbatim, as Duane from HTP explained it to me:

Wedges are basically a calibration tool. Droop snoots add 2 bends in the water flow path...one where the droop attaches to the bowl and a second one at the nozzle mount (most droops have a +7.5* nozzle pin angle, which adds the 2nd bend in the water flow path). Usually when the diverter is in the "best MPH" position, it's angled relative to the front half of the diverter nozzle. This creates a 3rd end in the water flow path. The purpose of the wedge is to allow the diverter to be dead straight in the "best MPH" position, eliminating the 3rd bend in the flow path.

What you do is you run your boat at WOT to get the max speed, then find what diverter position gives you your best MPH.

From there you put it back on the trailer and place the nozzle in the position that gave your best MPH.

If the nozzle is DEAD STRAIGHT in this position, you don't need a wedge. If not, then follow these steps:

Referencing off of the keel, use an angle gauge to find what angle the diverter is at in the "best MPH" position.

Once this angle is found, find the angle of the diverter in the "dead straight" position.

The difference between the two is the amount of wedge you need. If the "dead straight" position is lower than "best MPH" position, you wedge up by the difference, and vice versa.

11
Jet Pumps / Re: How to check the bearing in berk.
« on: July 08, 2009, 07:54:26 AM »
Pull the handhole cleanout cover (or if it's easy to remove, pull the loader out and do this from underneath), reach your hand in and try to move the shaft forward and backward. ANY signs of movement is a sign that the bearing is fried.

12
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: vavle cover breathers
« on: June 28, 2009, 04:35:43 PM »
Running a PCV valve will help. PCV valves introduce manifold vacuum into the crankcase, which will drop crankcase pressure.

13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Boat shake
« on: June 07, 2009, 01:14:25 AM »
Thread jack...  Hey jet where ya been ??? havent seen ya around these parts lately :sly:

Hangin' out on Performance Boats...I stop in around here once in a blue moon ;)

Hey Brad...you should have Dilworth push his Jet Dynamics business around these parts. Rumor has it that guy really knows his shit.

14
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Boat shake
« on: June 05, 2009, 10:37:47 PM »
Simply put, if your old one didn't have the weight on it, then you have an internally balanced rotating assembly, which means you have to run a neutral balance flexplate (one without the weight on it).

15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Too much , too little
« on: April 14, 2009, 06:50:16 PM »
Lets try this out for size ;D
454 with 049's Dart intake Holley 850 annular carb jetted at 91 prim and 94 sec.

this was run on a 460 BBC with great results. I hope i have the same results  :sly:

Sounds to me like you MIGHT need to go up about 10 jet sizes...you might be able to get away with 9 1/2 though.  lol jk ;D ;D

Nordic...been hangin' out on Performance Boats a lot. Gettin' ready to start my new build.

16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Too much , too little
« on: April 14, 2009, 05:54:28 PM »
Propless and I were talking about this very subject not too long ago. From what he told me, and it makes complete sense in my mind...

The airflow rating of most 4 barrel carbs is obtained at 1.5" of vaccuum. That being said, if you have the correct size carb that the motor wants, you should have 1.5" of vaccuum at WOT.

This makes sense because if the vaccuum reading is higher than this, that means that the carb is flowing the max that it can, but the motor is trying to pull more air through it than it can flow, causing the higher vaccuum reading (restriction = higher vaccuum). On the flipside, if your vaccuum reading is lower than this, that means that the engine cannot pull enough air through the carb to create 1.5" of vaccuum at WOT because the carb is not restrictive enough (i.e. too big).

With 1.5" of vaccuum at WOT, the carb airflow rating is maxing out right at the amount that the motor wants at WOT.

Vaccuum gauges are a very useful tool in tuning a motor. Fairly inexpensive, if you know how to read them they will tell you what the motor is doing and what the motor wants.

Remember, carburetors require a vacuum signal in order for them to work properly, so if you have a carb that is so big that at WOT it doesn't restrict airflow enough to sustain sufficient vacuuum for the carburetor to work properly, your motor will run like garbage at WOT.

17
Jet Pumps / Re: Pressure releif valves
« on: April 04, 2009, 08:45:28 PM »

Stop and think for a second! If it were anywhere near 300 , How far would it shoot out of the overboard dump!

Another thing to think about is what side of the impeller is the motor getting its water from? ( hint , The suction side not the pressurized side )

Take another look at a Berk suction housing Marc...you'll see that the entrance to the engine water outlet on the suction housing is actually BEHIND the wear ring and off to the side of it, which would be the pressure side of the impeller. After all, something has to push that water through the motor...it's not gonna flow through it all on its own.

18
Jet Pumps / Re: White lightning Top Loaders
« on: February 08, 2009, 01:02:21 AM »
Thanks Tom, I will be getting with you about a Diverter here in the future, just got to make up my mind on man vs hyd.

As far as comparing them to other loaders I honestly can't do that. However I do run a White Lightning loader and over a rock grate I did pick up about 5mph as well as a tremendous amount of pull in the midrange. It will load your pump harder so you may lose a couple hundred RPM, but IMHO they're well worth it.

With a 500hp 454, American Turbine AB impeller, Agressor droop and White Lightning top loader, in an 18' Tahiti style boat my top speed was 79mph @ 5400RPM with no shoe or ride plate.

19
Jet Pumps / Re: cavatation issues
« on: September 24, 2008, 09:35:45 AM »
Little bit more info needed. Are you running a stock wear ring or a bronze shouldered one? What is your axial clearance (i.e. clearance between the impeller wear ring skirt face and housing, or shoulder if shouldered wear ring)? What brand impeller? What brand was the last impeller and what were the clearances on the last impeller? Also, what brand is your loader?

20
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: sbc problem
« on: September 23, 2008, 01:46:38 PM »
And yes....Bahner says ...

He will always be 2sav around here  ;D

21
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: sbc problem
« on: September 22, 2008, 07:56:18 PM »
Ok I took off the fuel filter and the fuel is comming out fine on each side. I also took off the fuel pump. It still had gas in it and the gas dumped out of the inlet hole but not out of the outlet hole. Does this mean it needs to be replaced? I will probly replace it anyway but I just wanted to know if there was a way to know if thats the problem for sure or not. Thanks again guys.

Again...plumb in a fuel pressure gauge and go run it. While you're running it at different throttle settings, monitor the fuel pressure at each RPM setting. 3000, 3500, 4000, 4500...etc etc...all the way till you hit your top RPM. If you see the fuel pressure start to drop, you may very well have a fuel line collapsing while the engine is under load demanding more fuel. But ya have to run it to find out. If fuel pressure holds constant even up to the point where it sputters and dies, then that verifies the integrity of the fuel system from the tanks to the carb and helps narrow things down quite a bit.

Also...from what you describe about fuel dumping out the inlet but not the outlet, that could point to the check valve diaphragm on the outlet side being the culprit. What kinda fuel pump does it have? If it has a Holley, you may be able to take it apart and clean it out. Sometimes debris can get caught in the check valve diaphragms and cause them to hang open, allowing fuel to drain back down towards the tank instead of remaining pressurized in the line.


22
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: sbc problem
« on: September 22, 2008, 09:29:08 AM »
Sounds to me like at high engine speeds you're losing fuel pressure. Check the fuel pump as well as the carb. Would be a good idea to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and monitor fuel pressure while you're running as well.

23
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: diagrams 460 firing order
« on: September 21, 2008, 06:21:56 PM »
your advice sucked...

Well...I was giving advice on a FORD...what did you expect?  ;D

24
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: diagrams 460 firing order
« on: September 21, 2008, 05:29:02 PM »
ok so go ahead and start your timing on the five so your firing order is the same...fords a ford chevy is a chevy...i get what you are saying, but its completely stupid...point your dizzy towards one and call it a day...that is what the manufactures do as well right? when you point your dizzy to number one its not the same i will leave it at that

OK...all I did was offer that bit of advice up for those who are used to working on Chevy's and are working on a Ford 460 for the first time to simplify and make it easier to figure out the firing order of one, and you came on here and debated the accuracy of the advice I gave. You tried to prove me wrong and you weren't able to...I'll leave it at that.

25
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: diagrams 460 firing order
« on: September 21, 2008, 04:36:16 PM »
Quote from: 1980Nordic
yeah but you half to skip the one...so technically thats not the same...

IT'S ONLY THE #1 BECAUSE FORD SAYS IT'S THE #1!!!

The cylinder numbers do not matter one bit!!! It's all about in what order each physical cylinder fires. The number is just a name given to the cylinder by the manufacturer and does not have anything to do with the firing order itself. It doesn't matter which number you start the firing sequence in. It's all in what order each one fires.

Again the world is not flat. Just like the earth rotates, so does the rotor contact in a distributor. It doesn't have a "starting point" per se...you could start at a Ford's #5 cylinder and treat it as the #1 cylinder and go through the firing order just like you would a Chevy, and you will still get the firing order right as long as you go counterclockwise on the dizzy cap.

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