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Messages - 86caribbean

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Tunnel Ram Question
« on: May 23, 2018, 09:21:08 AM »
The 660 center squirters are good carbs, I too have a BBC engine in my jet boat designed and built by me, I have two Holley 4160 600cfm vacuum secondaryís on my Edelbrock tunnel ram, and they work fantastic. They both have the Quickfuel Technology billet metering plates on the secondary side that house Holley jets so you can be in control of your secondary fuel curve. I had also linked the secondary vacuum canisters together so they will open at the same rate as manifold vacuum drops. I dyno tuned this engine with O2ís and EGTís in every primary tube and staggered the jets per what we saw exiting each cylinder. This has been a very reliable set up and never has had any miss under any throttle angle.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Cam question.
« on: January 24, 2018, 01:17:08 PM »
First thing is to be sure you actually have a lobe going away, take an oil sample to see if there is any signs of metal. Then pull the spark plugs so you can perform a compression test to possibly pin point the problem cylinder, then pull off both valve covers and roll the engine over to check for excessive clearance between the rocker arms and valve stem tips. Then if you think you found the suspect lobe, install a dial indicator on a known good lobe, intake or exhaust, and take a lift reading at the rocker arm/valve and compare it to the suspect lobe. Sad news is, if you actually have a lobe/lifter that is failing; the metal contamination has already traveled throughout the entire engine's oiling system and impregnated into the cam, main & rod bearings, itís time to completely dissemble the engine have everything properly cleaned and certain components replaced and prepare for a clean fresh assembly, thatís if someone wants to do it right, short cuts could result in another premature failure due to the residual contaminationÖ.good luck

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Intelletronix Ignition
« on: January 10, 2018, 08:12:06 AM »
Iíd still go with an MSD product, instead of some unknown cheaper knock offÖ.Remember with a boat your looking for reliability and good service so your fun isnít cut short. Iíve used MSD products for 25 years now, from street machines, alcohol dragsters and marine applications; I have never had an issue. As with most things in life, you get what you pay for.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: What ignition to run?
« on: November 13, 2017, 08:01:24 AM »
Your goal with a boat is to have reliable fun on the water, ditch any pointís style ignition and go with some sort of electronic version, if youíre on a tight budget, go with a GM HEI for about $100 brand new, or if you have more money and if your future sights are set on performance and possibly building more power go with the MSD marine ignition system, I have this on my jet boat and it has performed flawlessly.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Newb 350 Chevy Jet Boat Build
« on: September 21, 2017, 03:21:30 PM »
These crate engines, as with most, are not designed for a marine application, it states this right in the description of the engine. The internal clearances are not set up loose enough to allow for thermal expansion of certain internal components while running an open cooling system.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Help with dry exhaust
« on: August 29, 2017, 09:32:26 AM »
Iíd ditch the zoomies before youíre asked to leave or be fined for loud exhaust at a lake or on the river, besides you will produce more power (low end torque) with a nice pair of quality equal length long tube headers. Plumb in a regulated amount of water into the primary tubes to keep the heat down, it will be slightly quieter, (no hassles from rangers) and definitely safer and more comfortable for passengers in the back. As a side note, your engineís air/fuel mixtureís for the front & rear cylinders will be much better off getting away from a single carb on a tunnel ram, Iíd choose a nice single plenum manifold or if your set on a tunnel ram go with dual four barrels, if your concerned about fuel mileage go with two vacuum secondary Holleyís, just my 2 cents worth.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: BBC Newbie Help
« on: August 22, 2017, 09:23:47 AM »
A word of caution, if that BBC engine was originally built for automotive use I personally wouldn’t install it in your jet boat. For a marine application certain internal engine clearances need to be slightly larger. Depending on the material of the pistons, cylinder wall clearance needs to be larger, I like to see an additional .001” for main and rod oil clearance, along with an additional .002-.004” for the thrust. Valve stem to guide clearance is another very important clearance that needs to be set correctly. All in all, for a marine application with an open cooling system you need to allow for certain internal components to grow due to thermal expansion while the external foundation meaning block & heads will not grow due to low temperatures. In addition, do you even know what is in that engine, and how it's set up?, example, compression ratio, cam spec's ect, ect. Plus that oil pan won’t fly, you need a marine pan like something from Dooley and a windage tray is a big plus. This may seem like a lot to digest, but looking at the big picture, if you decide to install it as is and score the cylinder walls or stick a valve in it’s guide and the piston hit’s it, these issues could be the demise of your engine really quick, do it once and do it right, you will be better off in the long run saving time and money.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Solid lifter question
« on: August 22, 2017, 07:59:49 AM »
Any solid lifter, meaning flat tappet or roller requiring a lash setting you will hear the lash being taken up when it’s running, but only if you know what you’re listening to. Any engine with a somewhat louder exhaust you will not hear a thing. Yesteryears mechanical grinds were much noisier, also having to keep up on lash settings, not so with today’s parts.  Don’t let anyone tell you that you will always have to be adjusting the valves, that’s an old tale from the past. With a quality set of roller rockers along with poly locks once you set lash properly (hot) you shouldn’t have to touch them for lengthy periods of time. I have run a mechanical flat tappet cam from Crane in my big block Chevelle for 25 years, and I haven’t had the valve covers off in years, also run a huge mechanical roller in my alcohol dragster and although I routinely check my lash, nothing ever changes. For proper adjustment, adjust the intake when you see the exhaust begin to open and adjust the exhaust when the intake is halfway closed, this way you are totally on the base circle of the lobe that you are adjusting.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water in cylinders?
« on: August 01, 2017, 08:07:58 AM »
Hopefully you didnít bend a connecting rod during this hydro-lock ordeal, just to make sure, while the plugs are still out crank the engine over by hand making sure it will rotate 360*, if a rod is bent, the piston skirt will hit the crankshaft counterweight and stop. Consider yourself very lucky if all appears alright, I have seen this numerous times.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Engine pop at 4500
« on: July 28, 2017, 09:33:18 AM »
If you have an open in a plug wire or a cracked spark plug you would be having a miss all the time. If your only having this in the higher rpm range, it could be a possibility that your valve springs are getting weak or even have a broken one, check them all very closely, maybe itís time to change them, springs only have so long of a life, heat and duty cycles will cause the coils to weaken.

Wow, it really does seem that you have an oil pressure problem, I also have a BBC in my jet boat built by me, I too have a Dooley 10qt pan, but only use 9 qts. I run a Melling HV pump with a GM factory windage tray. I use Valvoline 20w-50 VR1 oil and upon start up there is 80psi and even when oil temp is 180* cruising at 3,000rpm I have around 60psi and 35 psi at 950 idle rpm. So I would have to say itís an internal issue with a clearance problem or an early bleed off some ware. The Chevrolet engineís oiling system is quite simple and reliable, there is no way 20psi is normal or acceptable. Over my years Iíve seen some weird things that could affect oil pressure, extremely worn out cam bearings is one of them, causing an early bleed off before oil gets to the mains and rod bearings. Oil pump issues with the spring or bypass valve, but thatís kinda rare, but look over that pump closely, mating surfaces too on that 5th main cap, torque specs and pick up. I really donít feel you need any specialty items like a crank scraper, those items are above our performance level to see any gains, you have a legitimate problem that needs to be found before damage occurs. Iíve even seen an internal crack in a block that when it heats up and oil thins down the pressure would really drop, just a few ideas, but my honest opinion is that Iím thinking that engine needs to be looked into closely to find the culprit, perhaps get with your engine builder and discuss options.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gate valve routing
« on: June 22, 2017, 08:39:31 AM »
I’ll take my aircraft hydraulic ball valve any day over a gate valve, to me gate valves look like shit, they need to stay on the shelf at Home Depot. But to each their own, I plumbed my entire boat from scratch and it has worked and run flawlessly since it’s been finished, like the old saying goes, “if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it”. The gate valve has been around longer, and is slowly becoming obsolete.  The design of the ball valve makes it vastly superior to the gate valve, and is proven to last longer and cause less problems.  A ball valve utilizes a sphere with a hole in it to control flow.  When the handle is turned parallel with the valve, the hole is open to flow.  When the handle is turned a 1/4 turn, the sphere is also turned and the hole is now perpendicular to the valve and flow is stopped. Ball valves can almost always be operated after years of disuse and do not typically "freeze" in position.  A gate valve utilizes an internal gate that moves up and down on the stem.  The stem is connected to the handle which screws the gate up or down, opening and closing the gate.  The gate valve has a few disadvantages.  The biggest problem is that over the course of time, the stem which controls the gate may, and usually will break.  This means the gate is stuck in place, and the water will either be stuck on or stuck off.  Another problem is that gate valves are notorious for seizing shut after a long period of non-use.  If they are able to be freed up, they will usually start to leak.   

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Gate valve routing
« on: June 21, 2017, 12:35:13 PM »
Internal engine water pressure should be regulated from the pump, or your head and intake gaskets will fail prematurely. I too use a ball valve in between the pump and engine, mine is about half way open, I found that setting from monitoring engine temp (125*-150*) and water pressure. I have a mechanical Auto Meter water pressure gauge that is tapped into the thermostat housing in the intake manifold. Remember in a regular closed cooling system the pressure is around 15-16 lbs (radiator cap relief pressure), without any regulation or restriction, internal engine water pressure from the pump can be between 30-50psi and the gaskets won’t stand that for very long. My internal water pressure at idle is only a few pounds and and does not exceed 12psi at WOT. As far as 90* fittings, I would limit the use of them an elbows unless really needed due to space.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Baseline Jetting Suggestions
« on: April 13, 2017, 10:27:39 AM »
To truly read spark plugs for an air/fuel indication an otoscope is needed. New plugs must be used and after a few hard pulls/passes the engine needs to be shut down ASAP. To really see deep down inside the plug shell at the color ring captured on the porcelain cone, you need an otoscope ( lighted magnifier) to truly see it, the naked eye with natural or florescent light is not enough to truly see the color ring. Color on the plug tip or shell base can only tell one thingÖ.problems, not an air/fuel ratio indication.

The Parker Strip / Re: This weekend April 14-16
« on: April 13, 2017, 08:24:17 AM »
Sure will, wife and I will be in that area from tomorrow morning until Sunday afternoon. We'll be camping at River Island (Buckskins sister campground one mile up river), we usually hang out in Dutch Harbor and across from Sundance. I'll be wearing a silver Coors Light cowboy hat(my river hat)...LOL Look for us, blue & white 18' caribbean jet boat with blue bimini BBC engine with all the hot rod goodies.....Cheers  8)

Jet Pumps / Re: Splash back
« on: March 09, 2017, 05:21:00 PM »
Talk to Tim at Place Diverter and buy the low profile forward/reverse cable, arm and bucket and your problem will be solved. I had the same problem with my boat, it drove me nuts, but the reverse splash is gone now.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Popping
« on: March 09, 2017, 05:11:36 PM »
It's an ignition issue, ditch the Petronix unit, I had the same problem on my bbc engine. I installed the MSD marine box with their pro billet distributor and the problem was gone instantly.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Cylinder heads
« on: June 09, 2016, 11:39:54 AM »
Jamie, I wouldn’t dismiss what James Bostick has told you, I’m going to side with him also on this topic. The GM rectangle port iron heads are great, there is a lot of potential in those heads, but you have to ask yourself, how much more power and speed are you really after?. Remember one important thing, bigger WILL NOT guarantee you more power, bigger port volume can hurt overall performance due to loss of velocity filling the cylinders, the only way to get the velocity back along with volume is to turn higher RPM, (piston speed), your pump is now in question, what’s your max RPM now? We all know how important cam selection is, Flusher spoke of loosing dynamic compression, this is another concern with big lift and long duration cams in an engine that won’t see the necessary RPM to justify these components. Usually in larger displacement engines we can have cams custom ground with a wider lobe separation to get the dynamic compression back, not requiring as high of RPM to fill the cylinders adequately. Sounds like you have money burning a hole in your pocket, just be wise in your choices, also going with a big solid roller cam may require more maintenance and upkeep, also quicker valve spring fatigue. Taking some of these expensive steps may not give you the results your looking for, and also put you in a category of giving up some reliability and fun. If your 496 is healthy it should be putting out close to 600hp, I just built a 489ci BBC with 781 oval port heads with the larger valves and mild port & bowl work and it dynoed just shy of 600hp, hell my 10.0:1 467ci with shit box slightly worked peanut port heads made 541hp on the dyno. It’s all about the complete combination within the useable rpm range along with everything working in harmony to produce good power.

Glad to hear you got your boat running good again, when I bought my boat three years ago, it came with a Petronix billet dist and the Flame Thrower coil, I figured Iíd keep it even after I built a new BBC engine, I heard pretty good things about them, but after it shit on me twice, and even after I took it to Petronix in Glendora and they tested it and said itís fine. I installed an MSD Marine system with their Pro Billet dist and never looked back. I have had it for three years now and everything has worked flawlessly. I should of invested in the MSD system right away, Iíve run their products for over 25 years and never had an issue with my Chevelle or in my 7 sec alcohol dragster. Just fuel for thought if the Petronix gives you a problem in the future again.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Better crank case breather
« on: May 26, 2016, 03:13:52 PM »
This could be a possibility, without pictures of the set up itís hard to tell. Style of valve covers, baffles inside or if the breather is located towards the rear, allowing oil to get up into the breather easier. I like sealed valve covers on a boat that both covers are vented into a sealed collection canister that is vented, like something from Moroso. I still would diagnose the cylinder health for piece of mind just to make sure nothing fishy is going on causing excessive blow by.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Better crank case breather
« on: May 26, 2016, 10:30:36 AM »
First off, you need to find out why you have so much oil mist or blow by/crank case pressure. Regardless of how many hours you say are on the engine, Iíd start with pulling the spark plugs, give them a visual and then perform a cylinder leak down test, this will tell you a lot about how well the cylinders are sealing between rings and valves, and even head gaskets. One thing you never want to do is just mask or Band-Aid a problem, it has to be corrected, mechanical problems just donít go away, they get worse and sometimes cost you more in the long run.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley 4150 Rebuild
« on: May 25, 2016, 05:57:18 PM »
News flash, your still going to have to mess with it, there no way those guysís can dial in your carb for your application on the work bench. If it's really just a reseal/freshen up, just buy a Holley rebuild kit from Summit Racing and do it yourself, itís not rocket science, jump in and learn a little bit, it wonít hurt you.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Build sheet......Builders
« on: May 23, 2016, 11:44:47 AM »
Yeah, thatís the engine I built for Scott a few years back, and installed it here at the house for him. I also have many more assembly pictures of that engine build if interested. If you have any questions just PM me on here, plus there are others on this forum that know me and have my contact info.

Jet Pumps / Re: Pump work?
« on: May 19, 2016, 04:35:29 PM »
You always seem to know betterÖUmm, lets see, your about to put together your third engine in how long?...two years?...thatís a track record Iíd sure be proud ofÖ.LOL...nothing left to discuss, the owner of the boat on this thread will do what he feels necessary within his budget be it right or wrong.

Jet Pumps / Re: Pump work?
« on: May 19, 2016, 04:19:59 PM »
Okay Steve, it’s not being a dick, it’s being real….For the record I don’t have 10K in my engine, and if you have the balls to pull your “baby bottle” off come try and give me a run with your junk yard engine…

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