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Messages - rivrrts429

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Kill switch / dead man ?
« on: February 04, 2018, 11:03:37 AM »
This is what Iím using now. Seems to work well. Havenít been pitched lately so no real world experience but testing is flawless lol

V-Drives / Re: Just another v-drive on scjb
« on: January 10, 2018, 04:10:36 AM »
It looks like the same as my hull , I have a 19í schiada, the lines look the same . Would of loved to talk to the guy

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Yes, itís a Schiada. His screen name is 500bbc over on RDP if you want to contact him.

Lower River / Re: Big River area land lease
« on: December 29, 2017, 01:48:20 PM »
Thinking of buying a place in Big River.  I know the master lease expires in 2029 so its a little bit of a gamble...  Anybody have info on this area or how the lease deal works?   I would be a little skeptical to invest big money into something that may go away in 11 years....

Itís definitely a gamble when youíre talking about negotiating with C.R.I.T. for land lease deals.

We are in Big River and love it but itís definitely something in the back of our minds. Itís likely the Indians will renew and all is well but theyíre very unpredictable too.

I think youíre kind of answering your own question if your gut is already hesitant.

Unless itís an unheard of deal where itís worth the risk I probably wouldnít be dropping a bunch of coin into an investment you might not have in a decade or two.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Oil pan questions
« on: December 13, 2017, 10:55:25 AM »
I️ run a Dan Olsen 13 qt. and itís been a great pan. I️ like the Stephís as well.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Marine motor parts
« on: December 08, 2017, 06:51:09 AM »
Fuel vapor can/will settle in the lowest part of your bilge, covered or not.

Anything not insulated can make things go boom. I️ cannot see a downside to using marine rated equipment.

Of course we did it for years without marine grade items and all survived but now that theyíre readily available, and required, why wouldnít you?

Boat Showcase / Re: Lets See Your Rides
« on: August 19, 2017, 04:21:11 PM »
My junk...

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Low Oil Pressure?
« on: August 03, 2017, 01:34:56 PM »
Where do you tap in for an oil temp gauge?

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Weld a bung and temp probe on your oil pan.

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What type of exhaust are you running with this setup? Any specifics (collector length or any other special features) that you can include about the exhaust would be greatly appreciated. CK

HiTech built my pump and supplied my headers. They're the jacketed stainless steel with the so-called anti reversion tubes on the website, maybe a 14" collector. Scroll down from this link.

I wasn't sure what to expect from a quality standpoint but 5 years, 1100 horse, and they're run really hard and they still look and run like new. No leaks or cracks and no reversion issues.

Im running a solid roller Lunati .254/.259 duration, 112 lobe separation, .703/.693 lift on a 1071 blown 509" and zero issues on reversion.

Anything can get reversion if your not thorough with your setup but blower motors don't tend to have that issue much.

The surge is cool the first one or two times but sucks for any kind of decent dock manors. I'm going to dial back the surge when the motor goes back to the builder for a health check up this winter.

Boats For Sale / Re: Craigslist & ebay boats
« on: July 28, 2017, 02:22:51 PM »
It had a 468 BBC when I owned it. I sold it less motor and new owner put the LS and painted it.

Definitely a fun boat!

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Boats For Sale / Re: Craigslist & ebay boats
« on: July 28, 2017, 12:46:18 PM »

A blown LS would be cool

My old boat. Tom Papp (RIP) had his hands all over it.

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Boats For Sale / Re: 21 Eliminator Daytona
« on: June 25, 2017, 10:12:14 AM »
Love it!

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Jet Pumps / Re: Hi helix impellers
« on: June 22, 2017, 09:11:52 PM »
We are below Parker in Big River

Jet Pumps / Re: Hi helix impellers
« on: June 22, 2017, 08:45:05 PM »
I run a Hi Helix B in a 21' Bitz. 1130 horse and a best of 117mph on GPS.

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Boat Showcase / Re: Time to go efi
« on: June 06, 2017, 05:04:31 PM »
What kind of exhaust, wet or dry? Is it a closed loop circuit type setup? Just trying to learn where guys are mounting their O2 sensors without getting wet if it's an open type circuit where it's monitoring vitals and adjusting parameters as it reads them.

Fabrication / Re: What's the scoop
« on: May 26, 2017, 07:41:58 AM »
How many beers did he have? lol

The arrestor probably does more to block the air flow than any air flowing back up to the front of the scoop.

Probably need more motor info. Any motor remotely stock I doubt would see any real world benefit that you could feel. You probably would end up having two ugly holes in an otherwise nice scoop and no noticeable gains.

Boat Racing / Re: Ideas of how to gain mph?
« on: May 24, 2017, 06:38:29 AM »
I'm not sure what pump set back means but I see it a lot or mentioned a lot . What exactly do I need to be looking for as far as the reverse bucket causing drag and what to I trim? Do I want the bucket  to open further than it does etc?

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It's not the bucket but rather the part where the water flows backwards when you close the bucket when putting in reverse. You can mill it down to reduce drag. But for every action you will have a reaction. Most likely you will lose most if not all reverse capabilities.

I have mine milled down and reverse is gone but I also don't need reverse and was looking for every mph I could get.

With your package I don't see it making any noticeable difference. You're not running speeds where it has much of an effect. You have a nice cruiser, enjoy it for what it was designed to be and put the effort into the Chevy/Berk package.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ceramichrome headers
« on: May 17, 2017, 04:54:36 PM »
Coating can cover up imperfections so just check them out really well. Not saying this is the case in yours but just make sure the usual spots like the weep holes and inner areas around the collectors were prepped well before coating.

One benefit to the coated pipes is that they will be quicker to cool off. The heat tends to stay more insulated inside the pipe. I could touch mine in half the time I could when they were chrome.

The coating will never have the natural chrome look but will outlast any chrome header.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Ceramichrome headers
« on: May 17, 2017, 04:41:08 PM »
You're going to pay for what you get. Not all coating companies are created equal.

I had it done on a set that I ran dry, no water injection. A very high end hot rod shop sent them out for me to the only coater they will use. The prep work was where the money was well spent.

I ran them for over a year and they literally looked new when I sold them. No dulling or greying (which they tend to do).

They will last a long time with nothing more in maintenance than a wipe down. Do yourself a favor and make sure you don't shop a coater based on price and you'll be happy with their longevity.

Gelcoat / Paint / Fireberglass Repair / Re: Sub floor vs stringers
« on: May 05, 2017, 02:41:44 PM »
I do want to go aluminum. They don't seem to be in bad shape. I've just never been a fan of fiberglass tanks

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If the tanks are good stick to ethanol free and/or AvGas. Ethanol and fiberglass tanks don't mix.

Sweet boat. Looking forward to following along.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water/gas/foam in oil
« on: April 26, 2017, 09:28:17 PM »
Rivrrts if he does not have a big cam. Is reversion a common problem? The rise is going to be a bigger air gap than on a  snail and log.  Also how do people pressure test jacketed headers?

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Reversion is less common the smaller the cam. There are specs on most any header websites like Rewarder and Bassett giving examples of suggested cam sizes to lessen the chance of reversion. Of course there are ways around everything and lots of different ways to lessen the chance of reversion like introducing water at the transom and water exiting above the water line.

For lack of better terms they check the pressure no different than they would check a gas line. Cap the one end, pressurize the exhaust tube, put a gauge on it and watch to see for any line loss. Places like Lightning and Teague can all check them for you. I'd imagine a reputable exhaust company can do the same.

Ok rvrrts below is the pictures.. One thing I don't understand is.... If it's getting reversion through the headers how the hell does it get in the crankcase without misifire or hydrolock? Is it just pushing past the rings? And yes the exhaust exits below water line.

It doesn't take much water to turn the oil to milk shake. I've seen milk shake from slight condensation under valve covers that burns off rather quickly and returns back to normal with no ill effects.

Water exiting below the water line, especially at idle or shutdown is not ideal. With no way to regulate the system it's not hard to imagine how easily water can become a reversion issue.

Most reversion occurs at shutdown. You'd know how serious the problem was if you had a hydraulic issue but when there is just enough to end up in the pan I'd say it's most likely happening at shutdown, becoming steam, pooling on the piston, and finding itself in the pan. This scenario would explain why you're not experiencing any misfire. Just enough to milkshake the oil.

If you can eliminate the cause being a leaking jacketed header or typical reversion then I'd pull the intake manifold and take a look. You may have an intake gasket issue and water is leaking into the oil valley and down into the pan.

I'm no professional on this deal. Plenty of people on this forum with way more knowledge on the issue than I have but these are the most common places to check in my experiences. Also the easiest for the DIY weekend warriors like ourselves to solve without paying labor to someone that you can easily do yourself.

I didn't read the entire thread but are you running an oil cooler? If so it's also another place water can find its way into the oil system.

The good news is that these boats are fairly basic and it's rarely an overly complicated issue to resolve. Only a few places water is entering the oil but will take checking a few common places and making one check at a time, confirm or deny the culprit, and then move on to the next possible location.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Water/gas/foam in oil
« on: April 26, 2017, 07:24:59 AM »
Can you post a picture of the jacketed header where it meets the rubber hose and then post a picture of your transom where the exhaust exits?

Jacketed headers on a jet can be a pain in the ass and most times need to exit the transom slightly above the water line. If the exhaust is submerged below the water line and at an idle the exhaust itself can flood quickly with water introducing a large amount of moisture where it doesn't belong. There is so much water introduced into the exhaust on jacketed headers to keep them cool to the touch that ideally you want the water to be introduced to the exhaust stream as close to the transom as possible. This is why many people will have folks like IMCO or Teague run jacketed pipe from the end of the collector all the way to the transom and only introducing the water that's cooling the header back into the exhaust stream at the very farthest point from the motor.

Yes, you want to run the line of raw water coming into the system wide open for maximum cooling effect. To counter the issue of too much water I run a pressure relief for the overboard between the pump and motor. This isn't a system that guys like GT are fond of but on a jacketed setup it helps to counter any reversion issues on jet boats when running jacketed headers but still trying to maximize the cooling effect on the header.

I run jacketed headers with an aggressive cam (.740) and it was a must when being rigged that the exhaust exited just above the water line at idle otherwise milky oil would be an issue. Putting a modern style jacketed header on a boat that utilized the older log style headers isn't always a plug-n-play type scenario.

I'd pull off each exhaust and check the manifold flange where it meets each cylinder for any signs of water reversion such as rust around the head or header. It wouldn't hurt to have the headers pressure checked as well. If those headers are cheaper type jacketed they probably have a steel inner pipe rather than stainless and can be prone to rusting through if the header isn't drained routinely.

I've had my share of challenges with jacketed headers on a jet boat. It's all a pretty basic system but you need to learn their nuances to set them up properly. Your problem is likely something very easy so I'd start at the basics first.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Holley 750 Power valve
« on: February 22, 2017, 07:38:35 AM »
A good starting point is to adjust the bottom of the floats so they're level, or perpendicular, with the bottom of the float bowl. Slap it back together and then recheck with the sight.

The No Wake Zone / Re: Sunset pictures
« on: February 17, 2017, 06:45:11 PM »
Big River...

Arcade / Re: Induction thoughts
« on: February 17, 2017, 05:45:42 PM »
Just out of curiosity, what blower are you running and how fast are you spinning it?

A small pulley and a chiller will make all your dreams come true, just saying lol

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