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Messages - TIMINATOR

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1
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Machine Shop
« on: July 23, 2015, 02:09:08 PM »
9-6 M-F  9-1 sat  623-877-8553   TIMM     TIMINATOR

2
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Machine Shop
« on: July 23, 2015, 08:50:40 AM »
We build a bunch of the Olds motors, but we are in Phx,Az. In fact, I wrote the Olds article for HOTBOAT magazine years ago. Other than there are some better intake manifolds and heads available for the Olds, the rest of the article is still relevant. We have reliable, iron headed 550-700+ HP pump gas motors running for 6-8+ years with no issues.
The only trouble that folks have with the articles content is that the shops don't know what's important with an Olds or why, and don't do everything as recommended, its an ego thing. I included in the intro to give the shop owner a copy of the article to read, then see what his thoughts were. I recommended to go elsewhere if they didn't want to follow the article completely. I have had a few calls from machine shops that had disappointing results from the article, because they didn't do everything that was recommended, they just picked and chose what to do. Then when it didn't work out, they called me to bitch. I always tried to explain nicely that if they were more versed in the Olds, why read the article at all? Why not write your own article. Treavor's iron headed, dual plane intake, single carb, +.030 455 ran 86 to 88 MPH for years till he sold it and the new owner put a built BBC in it. It runs slower with the Chevy....   We have a lot more happy customers than not.  TIMINATOR

3
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: 460 ford logs and snails
« on: June 26, 2015, 10:01:04 PM »
You still haven't called, so I bought a set of Hardin Marine logs and snails locally for $50.00.  I am selling my thru transom stainless headers with injection spyders, Bassett "T", and stainless hardlines to fit a 460 for $300.00. Changing boats. Bought Bassetts for the other one. These headers have been to the lake about 5 times and are in excellent shape.  Timm  623-877-8553  TIMINATOR

4
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Need help & info on 455 Olds
« on: June 23, 2015, 07:38:11 AM »
Factory Olds engines do not have an adjustable valve train. If a large cam is used, often the rockers or pushrods will fail. If it has been converted using the kit with the stock bolt size into the head, those often fail by either pulling out the threads in the heads, breaking off the top of the stud, or the poly locks coming loose. If this is the case, you can just fix the bad parts and hope it doesn't happen again, or remove the heads and have a machine shop ream and retap the stud holes for a regular size screw in stud, those are much stronger. Breakage of studs is usually caused by over tightening the poly locks, over compressing the valvesprings, or incorrect valvetrain geometry. We prefer using stud girdles as you don't need to over tighten the poly lock to get them to stay in adjustment.  Post pics.  TIMINATOR

5
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Need help & info on 455 Olds
« on: June 22, 2015, 11:56:39 PM »
IMHO an 8 quart pan is too small for a healthy Olds, they have serious oiling and drain back issues. If the engine needs to come out, and even if it doesn't, find a print or online copy of the HotBoat Olds engine build up from about 2005. Lots of good info about Olds engines and their inherent issues. The only dated info is regarding intake manifolds. All is true as written except the Crosswind dual plane is now the best inexpensive intake manifold for 5500/5700 RPM or less. We have made around 680 HP with that DUAL PLANE intake, (88 MPH in a Biesmeyer 18 1/2' jet.) The Performer RPM dual plane is just slightly better at the higher end of the range, mebbie 8-10 HP, but since a jet requires about 20 HP/MPH gain most don't think that for 100 bucks more is worth it for 1/2 MPH.
For lower HP engines, use the ARP conversion rocker studs and SB Ford stainless steel roller rocker arms, big cams and roller cams we drill and rethread the heads for 7/16" rocker studs.   TIMINATOR

6
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 22, 2015, 11:34:03 PM »
I don't think it matters to most, what pre lube is used as long as its a quality product. Clevite bearings are what we use, and I figure nobody knows more about Clevite bearings than Clevite. We have preferences for everything, based on what has worked for us in the past.
Quality bearings, proper bearing clearances (quality machine work), cleanliness, lots of quality oil flow, good oil drain back, and a well designed windage tray are all part of the equation too. Each family of engines has its own quirks and needs, careful attention to detail is the most important factor in longevity. There is no need for everybody to do things my way, but for those needing direction, my way is as good as any place to start. TIMINATOR

7
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 22, 2015, 06:49:51 AM »
Clevite bearings = Clevite Bearing Guard. JMHO   TIMINATOR

8
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 22, 2015, 12:07:12 AM »
"CLEVITE BEARING GUARD is specially formulated with an Extreme Pressure rating to provide proper lubrication for internal components during assembly, and for the first crucial moments of operation after start-up" as read from the label and advertising.
Does it work? Hell yes! On certain years of Honda 4 cyl engines there is an oil pressure port thru the block/deck and the head gasket up thru the head to lube the overhead cam assembly(cam, cam bearings, rocker arms, and valve stems.) The gasket is marked "UP FRONT", but it may be installed incorrectly, as everything else but that oil passage lines up correctly. We get about one of those "Garage Mechanics" per year that can't read, and install the gasket incorrectly.  Those incorrect installations usually run about one to two WEEKS without any other lube but the clevite pre-lube that we put on everything! The cam will subsequently sieze in the cam towers and break the timing belt. Expensively.
Trust anyone you wish to assemble your engine, and use whatever you or they like. Engine Builder Magazine and their Shop Tip panel side with me, not the "wash it off" crowd, as they previously did. I'm not gonna argue about it. TIMINATOR

9
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 20, 2015, 08:05:44 AM »
I hope I answered all of your questions, except I forgot to mention your priming method is wrong. If you prime until oil runs from the rockers, you have washed all of the prelube from the bearings!!!
When pre lubing we use Clevite Bearing guard on everything, rocker arms pushrod ends too and timing chain (put that on with a brush and get every link and pivot lubed. When priming any V-8 or V-6 chevy you need to use a dummy distributor housing to seal the passenger oil galley or else you wont get any oil to that side of the lifter/cam area. But most importantly, over priming does nothing but wash all of the pre-lube from the bearings into the oil pan!!! Yes, I'm yelling again.
The proper way: If a flat tappet cam is used, mix the ZDDP additive(cam break-in additive) in a clean container thoroughly with all of the oil before putting it into the engine, otherwise the engine will start and run before the additive is mixed and thrown on the cam where it is needed. Non-detergent oil is best for cam break-in because the detergent "cleans" the ZDDP deposit off form the cam/ lifters reducing its effectiveness. Fill the crankcase, then prime the shaft with a small drill or speedwrench, we don't recommend using a big drill because it is more difficult for a newbie to feel what happens next. Start the drill, it will freewheel until the pump picks up prime (you can feel and hear when that happens), then it pulls down the drill again once the oil filter fills, then the galleys fill and the drill pulls down again. STOP HERE!!!  (yelling again). You only need the pump primed, the filter full, and the air out of the main galleys. Any more "priming" just washes the $65.00/ gallon pre-lube down into the pan. You already pre-lubed the rockers, pushrods and everything else while assembling the engine, it needs no more until oil pressure is attained. Even the Clevite rep has rethought his position on engine priming after our discussion. (See Engine Builder Magazine last year.) 
Just so you know, I am very introspective in our engine building, so much so that about 30 years ago we assembled an engine, pre-lubed it the recommended way of the day, then took the pan off to see if the pre-lube was still on the bearings, it wasn't, we did it again and again until we came up with how we continue do it now/still. Remember, the drill pulls down when pump is primed, then again when the filter is full, and then again when the galleys are full, stop there. For non-detergent oil, buy the cheap stuff, you will change it after cam break-in anyway. After the break-in we prefer Shell Rotella "T" diesel oil, it has a great additive package, near what racing oil has, and much cheaper. Its what we use in our race and go fast lake  engines.  TIMINATOR

10
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: 460 ford logs and snails
« on: June 19, 2015, 07:28:50 AM »
I'm interested in the logs /snails. No contact info for you...   Call me no text/landline 623-877-8553 ask for Timm

11
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 oil filter adapter
« on: June 15, 2015, 09:37:24 PM »
GM Dealer, parts guy that sells Pioneer, Elgin, or Dorman products, the core supplier or most machine shops. We save them when scrapping a bad block.  TIMINATOR

12
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 15, 2015, 09:29:19 PM »
Timm at TUF-ENUF MARINE PERFORMANCE  623-877-8553  M-F 9-6 Sat 9-1 hope I can help  TIMINATOR

13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 15, 2015, 01:13:41 PM »
Your loop looks to be -6, if so, its too small. -8 would be the BARE MINIMUM IMHO. Stuck pistons on pins is detonation, or lack of oil. The pins get lubed from throw off oil from the crank bearings, not enough at the crank, not enough at the pins. The shop that told you to just plug the holes is wrong. The bypass to the side of the filter boss is to bypass oil if the filter gets plugged, the one I told you to remove is under the oil filter hollow threaded tube, it is there if the cooler gets plugged. You remove it if you don't have an external cooler. In a car or low rpm stock type boat, if the clearances are loose because it was run in a car first for say 50k - 85,000 miles or more and it has a stock car (smaller than a boat) cam, it may work. But the oil pressure will be low at rpm. Sometimes you get lucky sometimes not. Usually high mileage gen V or VI transplanted car motors with the cooler lines plugged work until you add a cam, or carb/ intake manifold. We see those every season. Usually early in the season because the last owner blew the engine, installed a truck motor over the winter, and sold the boat early in the new season.  TIMINATOR

14
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 15, 2015, 08:24:17 AM »
What SIZE line did you loop as if you were using a cooler? How many 90 degree fittings? You can dispense with the external line if you remove the internal bypass/safety valve under the oil filter screw on fitting. When we do the gen V and VI blocks we also "port" the area around the oil filter and pump/rear cap, to remove any sharp edges, and there are a lot of sharp edges there. In my opinion, a -8 line if there are any angle fittings, is marginal for the external line. If you don't remove the internal bypass valve and plug the external ports, you force all of the oil thru the small (about 1/4" or 5/16") hole in the bypass, AND the internal valve is set at 5-7 lbs. bypass causing a larger pressure drop also. We see more gen V and VI engines with oiling problems than all others put together. Other issues we have found are incompletely drilled passages that don't fully intersect, and many sharp edges near the pump and filter area. Due to what we have seen over the years, we port every oiling system in every engine we build. Even stock ones although we don't do many of those. Pistons are also cooled by the oil from underneath (this can act as the wall clearance is too tight), and not enough oil can also cause the pins to seize in the pistons ripping the tops off of them.  TIMINATOR

15
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: XM 278 Cam Question?
« on: June 14, 2015, 05:12:32 PM »
If you use a hydraulic roller in a boat, rev kits are a good idea, they allow a lower spring pressure at the valve and make up the difference by pushing on the lifter body itself. The lesser spring pressure against the plunger reduces the amount of lifter bleed down and power loss, but the loss is still there. We prefer to only run solid rollers in boats because of the oil aeration allows the lifter to partially collapse at higher RPM or at any longer distance running, dropping the available HP. The solid roller setup is usually cheaper in the long run, than the hydraulic roller, especially if the rev kit cost and extra installation labor is figured in.
In a 21 Daytona with a 572 Chevy (268@.050/ .690 lift) in back to back testing the solid roller was 9 MPH faster. In a 25 Daytona blower motor 565" deal (264@.050/.668 lift) there was 11 MPH difference. These were both pretty hefty hyd rollers, and with a smaller hyd roller there would be less difference, but why use a smaller roller if your spending the money anyway?
    If you read and believe "magazine Horsepower" (you shouldn't), keep in mind that they are reading dyno Horsepower. Dyno HP is usually "corrected" to sea level air pressure (29.92"hg) and 68 degrees air temp. These conditions are rarely ever encountered at the lake, especially in summer. Dynos don't move, they sit there, they are not "going bow high" on the launch, trimmed out (also bow high) and throwing all of the oil up against the bottom of the crank and whipping it into a 'milkshake", nor are they going over waves and boat wakes, also throwing the oil against the crank. Oil against the crank slows the crank, rods and pistons sapping HP, aerating and heating the oil also. Hot oil is thinner and bleeds past the lifters plunger quicker, aerated oil is thinner and does the same thing. Any time the plunger bleeds down, it reduces the lift and duration of the cam.
Don't think aeration affects your hydraulic cam?  Buy a milkshake at your favorite "burger barn." See how full it is, don't drink any and let it sit for a half hour. See how full its not, the difference was air. Keep in mind that the "shake maker" probably only turns 1500 rpm and is 1 1/2" diameter, your crank goes 5000 rpm + and is 6" diameter. On the dyno we could make more HP by running a 10 quart pan with 6 or 7 quarts in it, all dyno operators know that, even with a windage tray.
Can't afford a roller cam? Use a solid cam and high lift rocker arms, that will help. No more lifter bleed down.
Olds motors have one of the worst  oiling systems known to modern engines, if you run a hydraulic cam, there is about 20+ HP to be gained by doing all of the correct oiling mods during rebuild, more if  you run a big cam, or just run a solid. 
Sorry about "jacking" the thread, but its good info....     TIMINATOR

16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Piston to wall?
« on: June 14, 2015, 04:22:43 PM »
Make SURE that the machine shop knows the differences between a boat and a car motor, especially a jet! In the Phx,AZ area, only a few do. We get to repair the carnage from the car shops all of the time. Weisco has instructions with the pistons that have recommended clearances. When in doubt, use the larger recommendation. A little extra piston/ wall won't affect anything but longetevity, and I can't even say when we had a jetboat motor in here that the bore was worn out, usually rust rings from the O.T headers, or from leaving the carb uncovered/rain. If the shop argues with you on the clearances (car guys think that the clearances need to be TIGHTER, because boats "have the whole lake to cool them") RUN!!!!!   The block and heads do run cooler, but the pistons and valves run hotter because the boat engine is making more HP at the same speed as a car, and therefore they are larger and need that extra clearance.  EVERYONE ELSE: DON'T USE HYPEREUCTETIC PISTONS IN JET BOATS!!!!!!   There's a post explaining it.    TIMINATOR

17
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Elgin valves?
« on: June 14, 2015, 03:49:26 PM »
More exhaust valves are failed from incorrectly set up and regulated O.T. headers than anything else! The higher the HP and RPM the more you need better valves. We use Ferrea Super Duty valves in the good stuff with O.T. headers, you can drop back to the Special Alloy for Lightning dry type exhaust. Less HP, like hydraulic cams, we use a minimum of their 6000 series. "Get away with" and exhaust valves should be a mutually exclusive deal.  You can stuff a cam in anything, but how long will it live?   TIMINATOR

18
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Push rod size
« on: June 14, 2015, 03:41:11 PM »
Stock 5/16 pushrods are fine with up to about a 230@.050 cam, and log exhausts, those only need marginally heavier springs, and the added RPM is no big deal unless your pump is worn out. The biggest deal is to run the valve train geometry to make sure you are using the correct length pushrod. Things that affect valve train geometry: Decked block(especially if BHJ decked), milled heads, bigger valves in old heads, a lot of valve jobs, adding roller rocker arms, head gasket thickness, size of cam (lift and base circle), valve length, aftermarket heads, going to or from solid or hydraulic lifters (seat cups are at a different height), and I'm sure that I missed a few more.  TIMINATOR

19
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 454 breaking pistons
« on: June 14, 2015, 03:28:23 PM »
GEN V and VI come with "Over-hyped-you-f***ed-me" Hypereuctetic) pistons. They are fine with a stock or low performance engine only, you can get away with them at a slightly elevated HP level if the cooling, clearances, timing and jetting are near perfect. More power, or any one or several of the issues mentioned and you break skirts first, then above that, the piston is gravel in the pan, and the pin and top of the rod make a big hole in the cylinder wall. Go forged if you want to make power, and find a machine shop that KNOWS BOAT MOTORS!!!(OK, this time I'm yelling). The number one problem we see at our shop is freshly built jet boat engines with cracked or shattered pistons, and usually after only a few outings, if cammed, manifolded and big headed. We have two in here now... 
Lets do a comparison of cast, hypers, and forged pistons on a scale of one to ten:
                     COST     and       STRENGTH

CAST                1                            1

Hypereuctetic    7                            2 or 3

FORGED           10                           10

Why pay the big bucks for something (hypers) that is only marginally stronger than cast? For a stock or near stock engine use cast, anything else, use forged. There was a very good HOTBOAT article about this subject, find it, read it, and post it. I can't, (legalities, I wrote it).
 
Hypers came out when the Federales mandated 50,000 mile mandantory smog compliance to the vehicles original owner. The factories needed a harder piston that wouldn't wear as much in the ring grooves or skirts, and could run at less clearance, all to help the smog deal. A large cast piston company knew that adding more Silica (sand) to the aluminum piston would make it harder, and they spent big bucks to conceive a way to take a normal cast (Hypo-euctetic) piston and add more sand than would normally stay in solution when cast. That's considered a Hyper-euctetic solution.
 Take a glass of iced tea (no sugar) and stir in sugar slowly until no more will dissolve into the tea, that's a Hypo-euctetic solution. If you add more sugar than it can hold at that temperature, the rest just goes to the bottom, and its still a Hypo-euctetic solution. If the temperature is raised in a very controlled manner and put in a preheated mold, JUST RIGHT, then the extra sand will stay in suspension and cast well. The extra sand makes the aluminum harder, that's what was wanted, but it also makes it more brittle, NOT what we want in a performance piston.
When GM first started putting the Hypers in all of their engines around the late 1990s (my brain is foggy about the date , not the facts) we R&R'ed at least 4 or 5 sets of them a WEEK for a local dealer, some with only "Black Death" (localized overheating and micro welding) on the skirts to siezed or exploded pistons and blocks that needed honing or replacing. We did those for about 2-4 years before they were all fixed or blocks replaced and honed as required. The rest of them were sold to old folks and peeps that babied their stuff until the wall clearances opened up. Many second owners got those babied cars/trucks and killed the pistons in the first weeks of ownership, and we did a lot of stockish motors. We always add at least .001 piston/ wall clearance minimum, and to this day do not install hypers unless its a stock or mild deal and we still add .001-.002 extra clearance depending upon the circumstances. We WILL NOT build a jet boat motor with Hypers at all for any reason. We are in Phoenix,AZ. and it gets to 110-115 here in the summer, we also do lots of motors for the Colorado River folks from Yuma to Laughlin where Summer temps will go to 120+.
Back to that harder piston deal, glass is made from Silica sand and is harder than a piston, but you wouldn't make a piston from it!  TIMINATOR

20
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 990's vs 781
« on: June 03, 2015, 07:38:49 AM »
OK clarification time, pump not loose by normal standards, but ours. MY bad.
If anybody is interested I'll post pics and info on sparkplug "reading", or I'll look up the year and month of the HOTBOAT article on plugs and reading them and then all can find it online, I've got the article/issue around here someplace, (I wrote it).  TIMINATOR

21
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 990's vs 781
« on: June 03, 2015, 07:28:12 AM »
GT, we all know the factors that affect pump RPM at any HP level, and know that any boat speed probably can be attained by a wide range of RPMs. Our PREFERENCE (not shouting, just emphasis) is to build torque motors and keep the pump RPM down. Since we do all of our engine and pump machining and assembly in house, it is easier for us to match the engine to the pump and vice versa, than most shops. I.E. Motor guy lies about the HP and pump guy has to cut or change the impeller or loosen the pump to get the engine in its power band.
One of my best friends is a retired pump/ flow engineer and we spend lots of time and research on this subject. As a matter of fact he is the Comp jet guy that runs the small block, I'm sure you know who he is. His engine would be more reliable, except his philosophy is to use the lightest, smallest, cheapest, (yes cheapest) part that will JUST do the job, like Pro-Comp rods, no chit!. The last race in point, one of his injectors failed (totally) early in the second heat, and he finished the last heats all on 7 cylinders. Too cheap to carry a spare, really. I believe he ran second and third in those later races. Usually he just splits the block or cylinders. Again the "anybody can build it strong enough, it takes an Engineer to make it JUST strong enough" philosophy.
Back to us. He keeps harping on the fact that pump efficiency relates to output pressure VS input pressure, and even before his input we made our pumps "tighter"(more efficient) than most, and that complements my preference for torque engines. Given the choice, I will always make my power at a lower RPM than most. We prefer the results: less wear, less noise, less fuel consumption at cruise, and less expensive components, because its not the HP that hurts parts, its the RPMs. All of our 70 and 80+ MPH boats run single carb, dual plane intake manifolds at under or around 5000 RPM. Its how we roll, been doing it for 40 years and have it down pretty well. We use single plane intakes to over 100 MPH, and haven't put a tunnel ram on anything in about 10-12 years, except for two guys that had them and liked the "look". They pay for that in fuel and know it. As an example I ran a 21 Daytona for 4 years with thru transom exhaust, swim platforms, pump in STOCK location, American Turbine aluminum "A" impeller (untouched, out of the box), single plane Merlin intake, single stock 1050, AFR 320 heads, Comp roller cam, 10.6 compression, REGULAR pump gas and no additives. 102 MPH RADAR and GPS at 5700 RPM.  Dave (Aggressor) sent me a high helix "A" stainless impeller for evaluation when he first started making them and with no changes it dropped the RPM to 5500 and it only ran 96/97 MPH. Since it was cammed for 6200 RPM, I did what anybody would do, I stuck a bottle on it and it ran 6100 RPM in the 100teens. Still on regular. A ton of folks in Phoenix rode in it, it was only a lake boat, with a bimini top. I used to ride around with the top up and smoke a lot of boats that way. Me, a smartass, but prepared and anal(short for analyze)   TIMINATOR 

22
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 990's vs 781
« on: June 02, 2015, 10:20:57 PM »
didn't think that took any explanation, still don't

23
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 990's vs 781
« on: June 02, 2015, 09:40:22 PM »
We don't set up our pumps that loose.  TIMINATOR

24
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 990's vs 781
« on: June 02, 2015, 08:16:43 AM »
I agree, the set up/ RPM seems wrong. The first thing I'd do is check the tach. MSD and others make a digital tach checker. We check them for free here, you can't tune unless you know the truth. Most of the boat tachs we see are off from 200 to as much as 500 RPM at around 5000 RPM, mostly they read high, just like most non-GPS speedos. About 3 or 4 times a year we have guys come in with similar readings and when we check the tach, we find that they are set to the 6 cylinder position! I can understand that because most car guys with big blocks can't believe that their engine only turns 4200 RPM wide open.
In your case, I don't believe that is a correct RPM reading unless your pump is worn out or assembled incorrectly. With your engine, I would expect more along the lines of 4600.
I also believe that a loader will slow your boat by a few MPH too. We have plenty of 70 and 80 MPH boats out there without loaders. If the boat doesn't unload going down the lake, it will probably slow it. The river guys use them to keep loaded in the rough water of the river(Parker/Havasu) After doing the jetting/ timing thing, we take top and bottom pump pressures to see if the shoe/loader setup is correct. For most loaders, we end up going back to a rock grate to see where we are, checking the speed and pressures as we change stuff. Also, just because an impeller is stamped "A" doesn't mean it still is, it may have been modified and not correctly, or where it should be, and not restamped.
Some of the things that affect RPM in the pump are in no particular order: brand of impeller(legends and Aggressors are "tight"), shouldered or old type wear ring, wide or narrow wear ring, side and end wear ring clearances, age of impeller (beat up / eroded leading and trailing edges, brand of bowl, stuffer or not, clearance from impeller to bowl, nozzle size, age/wear in bowl, blueprinted bowl and/or impeller, loader, shoe, shape of hull in front of suction, angle of suction installation, ride plate angle, droop and what brand/type and length, brand of suction housing, type and fitment of clean out cover(yup, really!), and I'm sure GT will add some more that I haven't thought of!
Back to the engine now. IMHO I would try an RPM Airgap intake or a Dart singleplane intake with an 850 to a HP 970 carb with your setup. Try to borrow one before you buy. Most of our big valved, unshrouded, bowl ported, factory oval port headed, solid roller cammed, 496s run fastest with one of those intakes. They usually run about 75-80 at our altitude and 115 degree heat. Check the tach and bowl pressures, top and bottom before spending any cash. TIMINATOR

25
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: 750 Holley running super rich
« on: June 01, 2015, 09:58:59 PM »
fuel level or fuel pressure too high, lousy ignition, set idle mixture to about 3/4 turn, power valve too high for the cam, take two aspirins and call me in the morning  TIMINATOR

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