Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Topics - Stevecat

Pages: [1] 2
1
WTB / WTB Autometer Marine 6k Tach Chrome Trim Ring
« on: February 27, 2013, 10:17:48 AM »
I'm looking for an Autometer Pro Comp Marine tach 0-6k 3-3/8 size with CHROME trim ring.

See the attached pic

Autometer PN 200752-35. They run about $170 new and I'm trying to be a cheap bastard mofo and get one for less. If you have a NOS or a used one in good condition I would like to buy it from you. Thanks for reading!

Steve

2
Random Boat Parts For Sale / Tandem Axle Trailer $600
« on: May 28, 2011, 07:48:31 PM »
I used this trailer to haul an 18' jetboat but it will handle up to a 20' boat and will go smaller as well. You will probably need to change the bunkers to fit your hull.
Includes the spare tire you see in the picture.
Has a 4 wire in line harness, 2" ball. Forward axle has drum brakes and the tongue has a surge mechanism but it is not plumbed with lines and I do not know if it will work.

Call 503-957-6954 and leave a message. Trailer is located in North San Diego County. (Fallbrook)

Thanks for reading.

3
There it sits in the pictures - freshly extracted out of the arse of my boat. It saw 1 brief season of use up in cool, clean Oregon waters (where all jetboat parts thrive in the mineral and regulation free environment). No control handle, but control cables come with it (if you want them).

This diverter is currently located in Fallbrook, CA and I can ship anywhere and deliver for free in OC or SD County.

PM me or call 503-957-6954  :)

4
WTB / WTB Jeep Factory Wheels
« on: December 30, 2010, 12:27:07 PM »
I am looking for this specific wheel. I believe they came on 2002, 03 & 04 Grand Cherokees. They are 17" with 5 x 5" spacing. I need 4 of them.



Thanks for reading!

5
Random Boat Parts For Sale / BBO Hardin Logs & Snails $100
« on: December 08, 2010, 06:45:43 PM »
They are located in North San Diego Cty. I can deliver most anywhere in the LA/OC/San D county area.

Call 503-957-6954 & leave message or PM me. Thnks - Steve

6
The No Wake Zone / It's a '70's Thing
« on: March 01, 2010, 04:28:18 PM »
For those of you who are 40+ years old - you might enjoy reading this thread on the HAMB. My feeling is that the original poster must be a younger guy and he was asking a legit question. He had an old hotrod he was starting to work on and it had some "strange" (to him) hardware on the rear suspension.

Anyway he made this perfectly innocent post on the HAMB and it quickly took on a life of its own - gathering almost 200 replies in about 2-3 days. I especially liked the side thread that got going over the photo of the car from "Thunderbolt and Lightfoot". Enjoy  8)

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=450023

7
The No Wake Zone / Better Living Through Chemistry!!!
« on: January 29, 2010, 11:25:36 PM »

8
There's a guy in Albuquerque, NM who wants to buy some parts off an old truck of mine. If you have a pickup and are driving from San Diego/OC area to either Phoenix, AZ or farther East and want to earn $50, PM or call me at 503-957-6954.

The stuff you would haul is:
20 gal gas tank (empty but stinky)
1 wheel/tire
Miscl loose parts (door hinges and the fuel tank filler pipes) in a box.

This deal would happen around 2/8/2010 or anytime after that that fits into your schedule.

9
The No Wake Zone / Want to Borrow Windshield Knife - North County or OC
« on: November 22, 2009, 01:09:37 PM »
Anybody in North County or OC have a windshield knife (aka removal tool) that I could borrow, rent or buy? I'm thinking of the kind with the bent blade and the T-handle you use to help pull it easier. Thanks!

10
The No Wake Zone / Old Auto Tranny
« on: October 16, 2009, 05:06:45 PM »
I've got this 68 Travelall running (sort of) and it has a funny symptom. When I put it in any gear even R it acts like it is trying to run in high gear. It bogs down the motor and stalls it out. If I give it throttle it will move but it wants to move fast (even in R) and I started wondering if maybe something inside the tranny is locked up and won't let it slip.

Would something like this happen to an old truck that has been sitting for years without running?

I know nothing about automatic transmissions. Thanks lads!

11
The No Wake Zone / Old gas
« on: October 12, 2009, 04:26:41 PM »
I'm going to try and fire up a '68 International Travelall that I've had sitting around. The gas is probably at least 3 or 4 years old. It has two tanks. One has almost nothing in it and the other about 4-5 gallons.

Do I have to drain it or can I pour something in to mix and give it new life?

12
The No Wake Zone / Monday Afternoon Traffic Jam
« on: August 10, 2009, 07:46:22 PM »
Sometimes living up here has it's advantages!  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

13
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Berkeley Packajet 460
« on: August 03, 2009, 12:23:17 PM »
Anybody know anything about these engines? Anything special about them? Thanks!

14
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Olds Experts - Please Inform Me
« on: July 28, 2009, 12:31:50 PM »
Hi. I am starting to talk myself into buying '73 Glastron boat with an Olds in it. The seller says that the Olds 455 is probably the original. Block is a '73 casting is F. Heads are G. He thinks it has a marine/rv/performance cam but no specs on it. He replaced stock rockers with Mondello (sp?) rollers. Eldebrock performer intake w/ 750-1406 carb. Logs were upgraded to 4". HEI MSD ignition.

I would be using the boat for cruising and towing skiers and water toys. Not wanting to go over 50mph.

I am aware of all the "issues" with Olds and oiling. I have an "extra" 455 hanger queen from out of a '74 Laveycraft. I'm just not that into tearing apart motors nor becoming an expert on Olds.

My question is: since nothing is a sure bet and we are talking about 30 year old metal, I understand all the risks. But if I use the boat like it was designed for in the 70's instead of trying to rev it over 5k, is this motor combo likely to be OK for me? What additional questions can I ask the seller about the motor?

Thanks for your help!

15
The No Wake Zone / boatpix.com
« on: July 27, 2009, 11:28:50 PM »
Anyone have any experience with these guys? Reason I ask is:

Sunday I was out with the family and just happened to be cruisin along throwing a large roost when what should appear in the sky ???  ::) ::) ::)

...but the boatpix.com copter!!! Whoo hoo!

Suddenly, I was very very excited!  ;D They were flying sideways above me like I was Steve McQueen  8), not Steve-cat. O0

And I started thinking (always the start of trouble)  :sly: If any of those pics they are taking turn out, I am going to have me one of these dealios:


'cept, ah... ehem my boat isn't that cool, or fast, and my humidity is lower and my state knows how to count ballots.

So after I get home I've got a jones going to get on their website and wait for them to post up my pics.  :o

That's when the letdown started.  :banghead: :mad: :screwy:

Weird deal #1 - there's no preview or gallery of their pics. Instead, they ask you to basically give them a database of who you are and where you live and what boat reg# you are. (wonder how THAT could be used for ulterior motives??) Then they must take what is already a freakishly expensive process and make it MORE expensive because they then have to match up their photos to your info you gave them. (WTFO, how much better cheaper would it be to let ME look at the fuggin pictures and pic MYSELF out of the gallery??)

Weird deal #2 - the pricing isn't obvious. It's kind of an afterthought and hidden away on another page of their site. AND IT IS INSANE $200+ per pic.

Weird deal #3 - no digital files - it's "artwork" so they sell you a BIG poster. OK fine - but what century is this now? How am I going to scan their $200 poster so's I can make it my avatar, huh?

Weird deal #4 - Next they want you to "help them" by getting all that "messy" money chit outta the way by "pre approving" your credit card with them NOW - b4 they start looking around to try and match up your boat reg # to their photo.

At that point I bailed out and quit. I no longer had a jones for my imaginary helo-roost pic. I felt like it was a 1/2 step away from being a pfishing scam. (Cept the helicopter was real.)

I think they have a GREAT idea and a SHEETY implementation. Sort of the Windows Vista of boat pictures.  :banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

Anybody use them and LIKE IT?

16
Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Idle speed drops then motor dies
« on: July 27, 2009, 04:17:49 PM »
Hi - need suggestions on what might cause this. All 4 seasons that I used my boat, the motor has always idled about 1000 and never had issues running at idle.

This season, after I got all the wire shorting issues resolved I have had good times so far.

Last two times out - weather is unusually hot here in P-town, I have had to run a long time at idle while trying to get noob skiiers out of the water. After running at idle for 15 mins or so, temp gage still says motor is at 120-140, but idle slowly drops down to 600 (which I like) and runs well there for 10 minutes. After that, it will not run at idle - will die. Runs OK if I goose the throttle back up to 1,000 or more.

What might this be caused from? Thanks!

17
I am finally nearing the end of my "bite off more than I can chew" project. I did an extreme makeover boat edition to my Apollo. Changed the whole rear end from an enclosed engine/deck to a tournament ski style. So I have this small little storage lid and I need to re-glass the openings on either side of this lid.

I need your ideas on how to fill this area in. There are curves going everywhere. These areas will be attached to the hull not the lid. Ideally, I'd like to end up with just a shell thickness (1/4") as if the factory laid this up back in '74. However, I am also OK with there being some kind of foam backing underneath the exterior surface. Whatever gets the job done, looks good after paint, can take some drunk idiot standing on it...

Thanks everyone!

18
Hi all! I have a friend with a tournament ski boat who is having trouble. Here's his story:

"Itís an 88 Sanger Comp Ski Boat 21í with a 351 PCM engine.

The tach is reading double while idling nicely and runs smooth up to around 4000 (2000) when the engine starts to sputter and cut-out. We put in new points, cap, plugs, coil, fuel filter, fuel, oil filter and oil.  I checked the voltage on the shunt resistor and it was 4v, so the coilís running about 9.  I just ripped the carb out to give it a good cleaning.  Itís a Holly 4bbl single pump with vacuum actuated secondaries.  The actuator had a split diaphragm, so it wasnít working, but itís rare that we get to that point, and gagging way before that.  I gave the carb to a repair shop. Iíll have the carb back in this weekend to see if that clears things up, but it still seems electrical to me."

Do any of you have opinions on what the tach reading 2X might indicate? This is not a situation where he changed the tach settings or bought a new tach - it just up and started reading 2 times higher. Thanks for any suggestions!


19
The No Wake Zone / Boat Fires - Big/Small Poll
« on: June 12, 2009, 06:51:33 PM »
Ray's sunk boat due to BIG fire got me wondering whether there is any other kind of on-board fire. I have some thoughts/ideas to share but b4 I do I wanted to hear anyone's experiences with fires.

Here's my categories:

#1 Fire: Have you or someone you know ever had a "small" fire that they were able to put out?

#2 Fire: Have you or someone you know ever had a "big" fire that did major hull/engine damage but did not sink the boat?

#3 Fire: Besides Ray's fire/sinking, have you or someone you know ever had a fire that burned the hull down to the water and sunk the boat?

20
WTB / WTB Tach/Speedo Housing/Cover Thingamajiggy
« on: June 10, 2009, 07:44:56 AM »
I need two of those curved tube housings that come up off the hood/deck and mount a tach/speedo. Sorry I don't have a pic. Tried to find an example online but no luck. They look like a big curved pipe.

Maybe one of you is still running with them and can post a pic... thanks for any help!

21
Hulls / Viagra for my boat?
« on: May 15, 2009, 02:06:59 PM »
Back before I found SCJB, I thought my boat was OK. But now I have "speed envy." I need your opinions on what might be "wrong". Here's what I know and don't know:

I bought the boat and used it the summers of '96 & '97. It is a 1976 Apollo, which is probably a splash of a splash of a splash. I have attached a picture of what the shape of bottom looks like. 18' long. Just weighed it and with full gear, 1/2 full gas tanks but no crew it is 2,100#. For those two seasons, the boat was "stock" with the motor all the way back against the pump. All I used it for was skiing and tubing the kids. 3,000 rpm = 30-32mph. 4,000 rpm = 40mph. BBF (don't know what cid 429/460 I assume.) Fuel tanks are in the front. Hull always rode "wet" with the spray coming off about 1' behind the driver.

Then I moved to San Diego for 6 years and never used the boat the whole time. It sat in storage and eventually flooded full of rain water. So when I moved back to OR, I ripped everything out down to the shell, took all wood and foam out - and started from scratch. I changed a bunch of stuff about the layout - I moved the motor forward 20" and changed the seating arrangement. I replaced my jetovator with a PD. Trim angle will have about a 2mph impact good or bad depending on the position. But "best" speed is with only 1 notch up from neutral.

OK, now the boat handles EXACTLY the same as before motor relo. Still doing the same speed at the same rpm. Spray still comes off the hull at about the same location. In other words, moving the motor cg didn't really help or hurt the ride. Based on everything I read online, I would have thought this would have ruined the ride but it wasn't good even with the motor in the "correct" location. Also, I measured the distance from keel bottom to bowl CL and it is 8". I have checked for hook as best I can and I do not believe I have any but it's not something I look at every day.

Never had the pump apart so I don't know what cut impeller or what condition everything is in. Yesterday I found an ad for my same boat (except stock - no whupass on the rigging) on Craigslist and the guy is claiming it will do 60-70 mph but I'm taking off 10mph just because it's crackslist talk. Still - I'm starting to think that either:

a) my pump has serious issues
b) my pump CL is way too high above keel and I need to redo intake or go to a droop
c) my hull sucks.

I would like to do an honest gps 50mph at 4,000-4,500 rpm and I would be happy. Doable?

22
removed the loose sheet metal baffle plate that has been banging around inside the valve cover for who knows how long!  :-[

I had never had the covers off until now.

The rocker arms have been hitting the sides of the filler/breather baffle plates. The left side actually broke off the spot welds holding it onto the valve cover and it's just been getting the crap beat out of it for some time.  :sly:

This boat stuff just never stops.

23
WTB / WTB This Kind of Morse Control Lever
« on: May 03, 2009, 01:37:54 PM »
Model CH2300P

Mine is even older style than this one. I am hoping they improved things when this model came out. Anybody got one of these (the skiboat style)?


24
After 3+ seasons of absolutely NO motor issues my luck finally ran out. Thurs eve I'm out on the river for my final check of new PD and cables. They are all good. So I'm just cruising around. Nobody else out - I mean nobody. No other boat trailers at the ramp. And of course, I'm doing 3k rpm and the motor coughs once, then catches and then stops dead. The tank I was on was very low so I assume I ran it dry but I've done that (on purpose) and I get a little different deal with some sputtering and time to switch tanks. But change over and I have about 1/8 left in the big tank (35 gal). I check the engine just in case there's a giant on/off switch that had moved itself into off. Nope. So I start carefully trying to restart. About 4-6 tries battery is getting tired. I am almost to the point where I will need to start paddling or call 911 in the next 30 min before I go over Willamette falls. I wiggle the coil wires and the dizzy cap basically doing nothing. But I try one more time and boom off she fires.

So I chalk it up to no fuel.

Take it back out the next night. Same deal nobody else on the river except I am smart and bring a daughter and boyfriend to row just in case. I also put 15 gals in each tank. Boat fires right up. Off we go after warmup. 15 minutes into a run up river and wham same thing. A cough and total stop. Now I doubt it is fuel and start wigglin ignition wires. Try the motor and it fires right up. Start back for the dock. Runs great. Near the dock I put it idle and let the BF drive. He gets in the seat and touches the throttle and it dies. I make him start rowing. I try starting and it fires up. I idle to the dock and we go home.

So how do I go about troubleshooting this? I need to be in the water or at least on the trailer in the water. But I want to bring some chit to try swapping out so I've got a chance of fixing it instead of getting stranded and go on the evening news. It's got to be fuel or ignition.

BBF. Points, coil nuttin fancy. Elec choke is on and hooked up because this is Oregon not SoCal. And I will say that I bet the choke is working because this early in the season the water is friggin cold. The temp gage is basically 120-130 instead of 130-150 during "Summer" season. My fuel lines run from bow and keel tanks uphill to a 3-way and then down into the bilge, up to the mech fuel pump and then up to the carb. This is the way they were all last season too and no random stopping like now. There's some pics of the motor in my gallery but I can put some more on this thread if need be.

Thanks for any help dudes!

25
Here's a before and after pic. I had a jetovator and had it locked into a fixed trim angle. Now I have the new PD and I left off the rudder. Things are good. I have mild wood. Assometer says I have picked up a leetle bit of mph. I can set a little down trim and get a sweet hole shot and small roost for pulling skiers. I can trim at max up and get a cougar attracting rooster. So life is good...


But I have almost zero reverse thrust now. There's only one of me in the boat so I can't verify that the bucket is all the way down but it sure as hell is when I test in my garage. All I get is a crappy little reverse thrust and A LOT of water splashing into the back of my boat. I also have no neutral now. Used to have just a tiny bit of forward when I was in neutral. Now I have a lot (sez the new dent in the back door of my tow rig.)

With the before gear, I had really nice control of the boat. Slide in and out of reverse at idle and the boat would respond. Now I just have forward, forward.

Help!!! Thanks.

Pages: [1] 2

Website Security Test
Powered by EzPortal

anything
Website Security Test