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Messages - Grimpala

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Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Jetboat parts for sale
« on: November 02, 2018, 10:45:01 AM »
How much for a set of gas fills?

Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: Seat boats and Bimini for sale
« on: October 08, 2018, 11:20:22 AM »
Do you have any dimensions on the seats.

Random Boat Parts For Sale / Re: 454 Holley carbs and tunnel ram
« on: September 19, 2018, 12:19:26 PM »
No price must be free !!!

I'll take it at that price.

The No Wake Zone / Re: Selling project or parts boat
« on: August 22, 2018, 12:19:54 PM »
I drove from Dallas, TX to Sacramento to buy a boat from this site, so I'd say it's pretty far reaching.

Jet Pumps / Re: Control cable mount Need help!!
« on: August 06, 2018, 01:59:30 PM »
Jim got me fixed right up, been working great ever since!

how do u use it spray it on wipe it off?
do you let it sit for a while kinda in the same situation as original poster

I used CitriStrip from Home Depot to strip the paint off of mine.  Brushed it on and let it sit til the paint bubbled up then scraped it off.  Most places took two applications to get all the paint off, and I used a fine scotch brite pad for the contoured areas.  Then I washed the boat and wet sanded/polished the get.  It's not perfect, but it's better than the paint that was on it.

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / WTB -8 AN Lines
« on: July 15, 2018, 07:53:16 PM »
Looking to see if anyone has any old random an lines and or fittings they want to part with. 

Just put on a set of bassetts and need to plumb the T and water lines.  I'm going to redo everything over the winter and don't want to pay for new parts if I can find used. 

I need -8 fittings, 5 straight, one either 45° or 90°.  I can use assembled hoses if someone has those lying around.  I need one 30", one 18" and one ~6".  I can shorten longer ones if need be. 

Dig through your junk drawers and old parts bins and sell me your old, faded, discolored an fittings and hose. 

I have a few parts lying around to trade if you're interested in the that instead of cash.


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WTB / Re: Rear tie off
« on: July 10, 2018, 07:46:53 AM »
Could what you have be drilled/tapped or have new studs welded in place of the broken ones?

Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 454 Cam & Valve Covers
« on: July 09, 2018, 01:34:39 PM »
Check your PM's

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 14, 2018, 11:12:45 AM »
You guys plumb it however you want, it's not my boat.  But if I was doing it, I'd run it the way GM designed it.


There is an extra hole that goes into the water jacket on both ends of the heads. These should be plugged when they’re in the front, but left open when they’re on the back. There’ s an external coolant transfer line that connects the holes on the back side to a reservoir that vents the air and steam vapors that would be trapped in the head and cause hot spots.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 13, 2018, 11:32:40 AM »
And lt1 also has a closed cooling system in a car.

A jet boat engine, just sitting in the water is mostly dry / empty.

When water enters the top, it will seek the path of least resistance, and out the back, leaving the majority of the block and heads uncooled/dry.

If you restrict the water on the exit, you will over pressure the block and heads, pushing out a head gasket or even the core plugs.

When an Lt1 is in a boat, car rules no longer apply.

With a whole lake full of water, reverse flow cooling or not, it WILL stay cool. Exit temp should be 120° or so with headers.


When you say "out the back", what do you mean?   

The lake full of water makes sense, it's going to cool either way, just thinking it should be plumbed the way it was designed.

My understanding of how a jet cools the motor is that the block fills from where the water pump would normally mount, fills the block, then the heads, then out the water neck to the exhaust. 

Why wouldn't you plumb the LT1 the opposite of this, so that it fills the heads via the upper water pump holes, and then the block, then exits via the lower water pump holes?

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 12, 2018, 11:00:48 AM »
An LT1 is designed to cool the heads first.  I would think that plumbing to the block first would be bad for cooling.  The heads are designed to work this way and don't look like normal SBC heads with regards to cooling passages, steam pockets wouldn't be an issue like they are on a standard 350.  They're more like a 400 for cooling than they are a 350.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 11, 2018, 02:17:00 PM »
After thinking about it for a second, an LT1 would be a little difficult to plumb in a boat without some sort of adaptor.  Since the water neck is part of the pump you'd have to have a plate made up that would feed into the block on the top, then out on the bottom.  Basically two fittings on each WP attachment point instead of one.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 11, 2018, 02:12:33 PM »
So, how do you keep the heads cool, without forming steam pockets?


Plumbed to the neck first it'll feed the heads then the block.  Correct?   Then out the block where the pump would go and off to the manifolds.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 08, 2018, 04:47:18 AM »
If you do run it, run a vented Opti, not that early crap.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: LT1 IN A KONA
« on: June 08, 2018, 04:46:32 AM »
Plumb it to the water neck first instead of to the block.  Pretty simple swap.  The cooling system was designed to run in reverse so I'd leave it that way. 

However, unless you're swapping to an old school dizzy or putting cool on plug I would think twice about running an LT1 in a boat. 

The opti was pretty much junk on a street car where it saw minimal moisture, a jet is going to be hell on it.

The cool thing is, you can machine the intake and modify it to accept a dizzy off of a 99-00 Chevy van and then run updated OBII with a newer ECU and you get a decent top mount dizzy with FI control.

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Engines / Engine Parts For Sale / Re: 454 Cam & Valve Covers
« on: May 31, 2018, 10:43:42 AM »
Still have this stuff taking up space in the garage. 

Anyone want to play Let's Make A Deal?

Sold the pistons

$40 for the valve covers

$180 for the cam/lifters/springs.

Stripped the paint off the deck to see what was underneath and found out why the P.O. repainted.
Got the stripe back, but looks the white was real thin on the deck.

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Stripped the paint off the deck to see what was underneath and found out why the P.O. repainted.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Rebuild or replace?
« on: May 15, 2018, 06:17:19 PM »

You need the vacuum numbers at WOT... Closer to 0"hg the better.

Going to try to hit the lake this weekend, I'll get some numbers and go from there.  Thanks for the info.

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Rebuild or replace?
« on: May 14, 2018, 11:09:21 AM »
It is really a trial and error thing. First thing I would do is to get a Wide open throttle vacuum reading and run a Go Pro on the upper velocity plates to witness the plates opening angle. If the carburetor is under demanded (like on a big cammed BBC) they will be WFO, but a mild small block may need that help to lower the vacuum pressure.

What's the set up?


Stock BBC out of a 78 truck, peanut ports, logs and snails, Performer 2.0 dual plane and a 750 CFM Edelbrock 1407 on top of a 1" open spacer, turning an "A" impeller.    It makes ~18 - 20Hg at idle and I figure ~225 HP.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Rebuild or replace?
« on: May 13, 2018, 08:25:39 PM »
Buy the strip kit, jet them up a wee bit, go down one needle size, pull the tiny fuel filters and discard, drilling the counterweight on the velocity door gains some much needed top end and allows the vacuum levels to get lower, this in turn equals more HP if the jetting can be made to match.

Any suggestions on hole size(s)/spacing/location(s) for the counterweight holes?

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Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Rebuild or replace?
« on: May 12, 2018, 07:05:31 AM »
A jet boat engine thrives on high RPM torque and the AFB type carburetor limits how much air the motor can pull in. They can be made to work better, but never work great. You would be much better off with a mechanical secondary Holley type deal. You also have to be careful with some of the Edelbrocks because they can have these teeny tiny little fuel filters in the carb top that restrict fuel flow when they are even a little dirty, causes an extreme lean condition.


I guess that makes sense with that goofy air door at the secondaries.  Any tips on hopping it up a little?  Don't have the scratch for a holley at the moment.

Engine Mechanical / Electrical / Re: Rebuild or replace?
« on: May 10, 2018, 10:56:27 AM »

Looking at your picture, you have the worst carburetor on the market for a boat



I guess I'm not understanding what you're trying to do. Where on the boat were the pictures taken of the paint being striped and what do you mean by 'tub' when removing the paint?

Your boat's 42 years old, if the metal flake is the original and not been re-painted the deck flake might have faded quicker than the side flake being exposed to direct sun. Resin and gel never stops curing.

The top two pics were taken around the outside perimeter of the seating area, basically where your arm would rest while riding shotgun. The bright white is paint, the yellowish white is what appears to be faded/discolored gel, and then there is metal flake blue underneath. 

I guess someone could have sprayed white gel over the original blue flake.

I cut a hole in the dash to install another gauge and then sanded the plug just to see what's going on. 

The layers are as follows:

White paint
White/yellowed gel
blue metal flake gel

Haven't stripped the whole boat yet, but that's my next step, curiosity has gotten the best of me.

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