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'71 Tahiti Rebuild

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Bobbyblank

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« on: March 07, 2008, 08:31:16 PM »
Had a build thread on another forum, figured i would post here to see if i get more replies, the other site is a smaller forum. Here it is as it sits so far.

The boat is a 71' Tahiti clone of a Sidewinder. Its got an olds 455/berkley




Well, It has been in the upper 70's all week here in cali so i decided to pull off the cover and get busy on the boat. Decided to get the motor out so i could start up the "re-wire" on it, and boy does it need it! Looks like to monkeys played chinese jump rope with them. Figureing its going to be a month or so before i have the cash for the rebuild, i went down to my local Harbor Freight Tools and picked up a 1000lbs engine stand for a cool 39.99! I dont know if you canadians have them, but they are the best place to buy tools that you dont use to often. The quality isnt really the best, but if you only need to use the stuff every now and again, they have rock bottom prices. Well as far as pulling the motor, IT WAS A BREEZE. I had my father on the jack, and my girlfriend takeing pics and helping out as well. 25-30 minutes, not bad for pulling the motor out for the first time. Driveline looked pretty good, pump splines were in good shape, stringers looked solid, pretty good day so far. Then the gods aligned the stars in the shape of a pentagram and THIS happend. While pulling off the flywheel so i could mount the motor onto my stand, THE VERY LAST BOLT STIPPED!!!!!   . I ran out of options, so i drilled out the grade 8 bolt and hammerd in an "EZ-out" and i figured i was in good shape......until the EZ-out snaped inside the @#$% BOLT! bash. Well that was the end of the day, had to go cool off and think about my next step.. I guess im gonna use my plasma cutter and try to blast out what is left of the head and then go from there.......god, what a crappy way to end the day. But i did get some good pics
















To the victor goes the spoils!!!






And now the broken bolt  :banghead:

















flytime

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« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2008, 08:35:56 PM »
Welcome to the site Bobby. Look like you had a fun day. Dont get too discouraged. There is always tommorow. Good luck with the project.

Bob
the jet boat never did this to you bob ::)
Can I get next in line behind The Beav

Bobbyblank

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« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2008, 08:36:52 PM »
Well.....I got the bolt out . Went at it with a plasma cutter little by little and cut of little chunks of the bolt head off. after about 10 minutes, she was done! As soon as i got the flywheel off, the stud was finger tight of coarse....i guess the bolt head had rusted to the flywheel. Well after that speed bump was taken care off, i started stripping the motor down and getting it ready for the machine shop. All and all the motor looks pretty good. A little rust, but it sat for a while before the last owner rebuilt it and i dont think he drained anything. Now that the motor is out, im gonna start the rewire process and start setting the boat up they way i like it. Now, pictures for you guys to check out.....

















Well, thats all for now! Gonna start the rewire very soon. I just found a builder and sent the motor in for an inspection and estimate. Comments are welcome!

hotrod56cars

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« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2008, 08:42:43 PM »
Looks like you got to have a lot of fun. Here's a good info type of site for Olds engines...
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm#Table%20of%20Contents
What are your plans for the engine? Rebuild? More HP?

I like the "snail protector".  :D
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jet boat performance

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« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2008, 08:54:57 PM »
Very Nice Job ! Tom

Bobbyblank

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« Reply #5 on: March 07, 2008, 09:16:22 PM »
Looks like you got to have a lot of fun. Here's a good info type of site for Olds engines...
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm#Table%20of%20Contents
What are your plans for the engine? Rebuild? More HP?

I like the "snail protector".  :D

     Glad to see all the comments, i didnt get many on other boating sites. Thanks hotrod, i have been checking out 442.com and realoldspower.com for a while, they are LOADED with info on the 455. Great sites.
     As for the motor, it had a spun bearing when i purchased it. Constant problem with many olds motors from what i gather. I took it out on the lake anyway just to see how she ran anyway since i knew i was gonna rebuild anyhow. It did make for a good video though, you can hear it ticking in the background lol. I am haveing the bottom done, new bearings, lifters, adding oil restrictors, crank turn, resizeing rods, also new rings and ARP hardware. More agressive cam, getting heads decked and ported, new valves. Pretty much an overhaul, mild motor. When it was running, she did 60 at 4000rpm, plenty fast for now  ::).   Here is the video if you all want a good laugh  ::) 

     

flytime

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« Reply #6 on: March 07, 2008, 10:08:59 PM »
Sound familiar Wanabe. ;D
the jet boat never did this to you bob ::)
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wanabe

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« Reply #7 on: March 07, 2008, 10:16:56 PM »
Sound familiar Wanabe. ;D

Yep; heard that sound before; and soon thereafter I heard:
"BAAAAANNNNNG"
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wanabe

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« Reply #8 on: March 07, 2008, 10:19:17 PM »
... While pulling off the flywheel so i could mount the motor onto my stand, THE VERY LAST BOLT STIPPED!!!!! ...
Hey flytime, does THAT sound familiar?
Same problem here Bblank.
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flytime

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« Reply #9 on: March 07, 2008, 10:21:37 PM »
I thought about that to but I didnt want to give you too hard of a bad time. We still need to get that fuker out of there. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
the jet boat never did this to you bob ::)
Can I get next in line behind The Beav

wanabe

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« Reply #10 on: March 07, 2008, 10:25:21 PM »
Keep at it Bobby; good work.
You're reading the same places I have on the BBO; I've read on the oil mods that it's more important to make sure you have quick return to the pan/valley (some say is even more important than the restricters) so be sure to do the head mods. I'm sure 10qt pan is planned (if it wasn't already there).
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hotrod56cars

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« Reply #11 on: March 07, 2008, 10:27:37 PM »
... I'm sure 10qt pan is planned (if it wasn't already there).

It's already there.
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flytime

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« Reply #12 on: March 07, 2008, 10:28:56 PM »
You got something we dont know about Rod? A little present perhaps?
the jet boat never did this to you bob ::)
Can I get next in line behind The Beav

hotrod56cars

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« Reply #13 on: March 07, 2008, 10:31:11 PM »
You got something we dont know about Rod? A little present perhaps?

 ???  His engine has a 10 qt pan already on it. Look at the pics up top  ::)
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NO REGRET$ ... Arguing on the internet is like competing in the Special Olympics / no matter how good you do you're still retarded!!!!!

                                                          1978  19' Mach 1 Tunnel jet

flytime

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« Reply #14 on: March 07, 2008, 10:33:34 PM »
 :banghead:
« Last Edit: March 08, 2008, 09:17:17 AM by flytime »
the jet boat never did this to you bob ::)
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Bobbyblank

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« Reply #15 on: March 07, 2008, 10:34:40 PM »
Yea, when that bolt head stripped, i was freaking out  :mad:. I had just said something to my old man about how easy i got the motor out, and five minutes later........ I guess something had to go wrong lol. If the EZ out would have been a little better quality and didnt snap off, i would have had no problem getting it out. I couldnt drill into the EZout so i just zapped it 2 dozen times with a cutter and pulled out all the slag i could.

Yea, 10q pan already in place. I think the previous owner just tossed in a high volume pump which made the problem of emptying out the pan even worse, and with a high volume pump and no restrictors, the engine was doomed to fail. Pisses me off though, he had to have known about the bearing when i got it off him, as soon as i started it in the water with a load on the motor, you could hear it. When you run it out of the water, it wasnt really noticeable..  I guess as long as he can sleep at night  lol.

flytime

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« Reply #16 on: March 07, 2008, 10:36:34 PM »
Bastard! :mad:
the jet boat never did this to you bob ::)
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wanabe

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« Reply #17 on: March 07, 2008, 10:38:33 PM »
???  His engine has a 10 qt pan already on it. Look at the pics up top  ::)
Yep; 10q pan clear as can be; I guess I scanned the pics too fast.
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hotrod56cars

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« Reply #18 on: March 07, 2008, 10:55:25 PM »
Misuderstood. We need a 10qt for "patches". :banghead:

PM sent.
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NO REGRET$ ... Arguing on the internet is like competing in the Special Olympics / no matter how good you do you're still retarded!!!!!

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« Reply #19 on: March 07, 2008, 11:12:33 PM »
I guess as long as he can sleep at night  lol.

Did you by chance buy this off a guy in Modesto???  Sounds like the jerk I got my Miller from.  He had to know things were wrong and maybe that's why he was dumping it.   :banghead: :mad: :-\
~Greg
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« Reply #20 on: March 08, 2008, 05:22:13 AM »
good job and welcome to the site

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« Reply #21 on: March 08, 2008, 09:28:01 AM »
Hello Bobby and welcome to the site,

And to the only thing I have found thats more expensive than a woman....... the 455 Oldsmobile  ;D,
I am no pro at all this stuff yet, but with the knowlege/help from all the guys here on this site and some mechanical "know how" you'll have whatever imformation your wallet can afford, and through their "trial and error" the information will be priceless. I thought (beings it had already been mentioned) and it has been my biggest messiest problem hands down since I decided to stick with the olds, is getting the oil back into the pan, and keeping it from filling the valve covers, and blowing it out of the breathers, or worse case suck the pan dry spinning the bearings.
 And beings you have time waiting for the machining, this will be the perfect time to eliminate a potentially familiar sound you have already experienced (the video)
First double check the return passage where it runs back through the head and block for properly alligned return passage back into the valley (mine didnt line up right where the head and block mated) so with some mild porting I had a smooth clean passage. Then when familiar and satisfied with the way it all flowed I drilled and tapped into the same passage for my return lines, first couple of pics shows approx location, there isn't alot of room for error so you'll want to make sure you measure twice and drill once (I tapped a 1/4 pipe thread into the head for the fitting (1/4 pipe to 3/8 compression 90*).
 Then I went to the hardware store bought a ( 1/2 pipe to 3/8 compression 90*, and a 1/2 coupler) then I cut the coupler in  half and made two bungs to weld into the pan, before I drilled holes in the pan I created the two separate paths for return lines (Some will say the starter/logs gets in the way so "t" off the filter/passenger side and run ONE SINGLE line back to the pan) But when I mocked mine up there was plenty of room so I opted for the dual returns.
The other pics are where the welded in bungs will go exactly, I marked them drilled the holes, welded them in, then sent the pan (with all the metal/slag) to the machine shop so it could be hot tanked and cleaned up with everything else.
 I didnt do it in this order last time I went through the bottom end and ended up not wanting to risk  leaving behind shavings in the pan (after block was rebuilt and ready to install) so I plugged the holes and slapped the pan on, and ran it without finishing it.........every time I put my foot in it, I regretted not doing it right when I had the time.
Any way I know this got a little long winded but as simple as it looks it takes some thinking out, and hopefully this will help, and simplify it for you.
Good Luck !!! and keep us posted.
John





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do it twice you're a fool !

hotrod56cars

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« Reply #22 on: March 08, 2008, 09:33:55 AM »
DOZZR, very cool post. I'm curious as to why you put the oil pan's return line bung's where you did, instead of higher in the pan? I would have never thought of checking the oil return passeges in the heads and block to see if they matched.

I saw your Tahiti at the AVI last year, sweet boat!
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« Reply #23 on: March 08, 2008, 09:48:01 AM »
The pan has the windage tray in it, that spot is as high and forward as I could get it while still staying below the tray (avoiding dumping oil onto the crank) and beings the oil naturally flows to the rear, I figured forward would be the spot where the oil level would be the lowest under WOT conditions.
I never would have picked up on the head to block return passages either, but I read somewhere that when you start mixing and matching all the different years and pieces the molds changed slightly creating mismatched allignment, and with the oil issues I have had to deal with I thought that little bit if info. was worth remembering ;D

Do it once it's a mistake,
do it twice you're a fool !

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« Reply #24 on: March 08, 2008, 09:53:04 AM »
That's why I asked, I knew you had a reason DOZZR!
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NO REGRET$ ... Arguing on the internet is like competing in the Special Olympics / no matter how good you do you're still retarded!!!!!

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« Reply #25 on: March 08, 2008, 10:11:14 AM »
There is one other thing my engine guy swears by,  that I still am not to sure about, but maybe this is the place/post to to clear it up.
I bought oil restrictors for my first build and when I gave them to Don (engine guy) he asked what they were for ( I know he knew but he wanted to drive his point home), when I told him he threw the bag in the trash  :o, I about shit, then asked what the hell he did that for, and his response was that if I wanted to slow the flow to the top end we would just put smaller holes in the cam bearings. It made sense, and I wasn't going to convince him otherwise so I let him run with it. It seemed to do the trick, but I still wonder ????
Any comments ????

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do it twice you're a fool !

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« Reply #26 on: March 08, 2008, 10:15:58 AM »
I'm guessing it would be better to have the oil have no issue's getting back to the pan than trying to slow it down going up to the top. Wait a minute, that has nothing to do with restrictor's.  :banghead:
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NO REGRET$ ... Arguing on the internet is like competing in the Special Olympics / no matter how good you do you're still retarded!!!!!

                                                          1978  19' Mach 1 Tunnel jet

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« Reply #27 on: March 08, 2008, 11:26:02 AM »
There is one other thing my engine guy swears by,  that I still am not to sure about, but maybe this is the place/post to to clear it up.
I bought oil restrictors for my first build and when I gave them to Don (engine guy) he asked what they were for ( I know he knew but he wanted to drive his point home), when I told him he threw the bag in the trash  :o, I about shit, then asked what the hell he did that for, and his response was that if I wanted to slow the flow to the top end we would just put smaller holes in the cam bearings. It made sense, and I wasn't going to convince him otherwise so I let him run with it. It seemed to do the trick, but I still wonder ????
Any comments ????
That would be called a "free mod", flip it over and drill a smaller hole in the cam bearing instead of spending extra money on the restrictors.

You can restrict the oil later by installing a roll pin in each of your pushrods, instead of buying "restricted pushrods" :screwy:.....hand full of roll pins < $5  restricted Pushrods  $200+ :o
« Last Edit: March 08, 2008, 11:35:12 AM by Josh@JBP »

 


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