1975 Blown Hallett

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Zep654

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« on: December 12, 2019, 06:40:42 PM »
I picked up this float back in June.  It is my first jet boat.  I had it shipped all the way from Cali to central PA sight unseen.  It arrived and looked awesome.  However, when I pulled the valve covers, I noticed five exhaust valves stuck open and after fixing them, I still saw no compression on multiple cylinders.  I decided to call this year a wash and rebuild it.  It was a gen IV 468 bbc with a mooneyham 671 blower.  Berkeley 12JC pump with A Agressor bronze impellor.  Jensen's engines out of nescopeck PA did the machine work.  I was going to have someone build it for me as I have never built an engine from the ground up (and mainly work on motorcycles and diesels), but it went almost four months and the guy never even touched it.  I decided its now or never.  Sink or swim if you will.  Here are some pictures of the boat and build so far.  I have done so much to this and have a decent amount of money in the upgrades and parts its insane.  I have 105 hours into the engine build alone so far and counting.  I am double checking my double checks so I hope it all works out.  I am looking to get it dynoed in the next month or so.  My fingers are crossed.

Parts list (used to be hydraulic flat tappet with a baby cam and 1:1 pulleys):

SRP pistons (calculated 8:1 compression now)
Total Seal file fit rings (gapless 2nd ring)
Forged shotpeened rods
Scat forged balanced crank
Clevite bearings
Melling m77 oil pump
10 Qt dooley oil pan
Gen IV bbc block (now 472 cubic inch)
World Ind. Merlin 1-043C 119cc iron heads
Cometic Stainless MLS 5 layer .070 headgaskets
dual valve springs with dampers
Comp 1.7 ratio roller rockers
Comp .135 wall 3/8 pushrods
Crower solid roller lifters
Comp 11-771-8 cam (242, 248   .646, .653    110 lsa
Blp 3 piece timing cover
Rollmaster torrington timing set
ARP EVERYTHING
MSD 6M-2L, blaster 2 coil, and pro billet hei distributor (locked out, 31 degrees BTDC advanced timing)
Moroso Ultra 40 8.65 wires
NGK heat range 8 plugs
2.5% over pulleys (40 tooth 1/2 pitch upper and 41 tooth under)
Jomar Professional stud girdles
Basset coated headers
Dooley air scoop
Two side mounted Holley 850 four barrel carbs
Weiand carb adapter and intake manifold with burst panel
Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump (7 psi)

Main bearing clearance is .033
Rod bearing clearance is .028
crank endplay is .0045
cam endplay is .004
Ring end gap is .033-.034
472 cu. in.
8:1 comp ratio

Here are some pictures!
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck


Zep654

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« Reply #1 on: December 12, 2019, 06:55:40 PM »


« Last Edit: December 12, 2019, 06:57:44 PM by Zep654 »
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #2 on: December 12, 2019, 07:04:21 PM »
I was testing to see If I knew how to post pics.  Here they come (hopefully)

It arrived:




Removing the Cali Registration numbers:












Re epoxied the suction plate:





Stuck valves:







  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #3 on: December 12, 2019, 07:08:57 PM »
Teardown:























Hand painted by me; new registration numbers:

« Last Edit: December 12, 2019, 08:30:18 PM by Zep654 »
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #4 on: December 12, 2019, 07:17:22 PM »




























Safecraft extinguisher:












  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #5 on: December 12, 2019, 07:24:55 PM »






No Compression teardown:





New transom silicone and gasket (no more yellow):







Dual 500 GPH (16.7 gallon per minute) bilge pumps:





New TBS front snout cover since old Mooneyham cover had two stripped holes and didn't have a sight glass:



















  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #6 on: December 12, 2019, 07:29:18 PM »
Before and After:









Buffing polish and ceramic coat:











Custom towels haha  I'm insane:



  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #7 on: December 12, 2019, 07:36:50 PM »
Machine work is done:











Mocking puke tank up (it doesn't look level, but it is and will be at the end):



Fixing bunks:











New better treated wood with Thompson's water seal:



























  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #8 on: December 12, 2019, 07:44:08 PM »
The build begins:











































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« Reply #9 on: December 12, 2019, 07:53:09 PM »
It continues: (got the scoop cover made and matches the seats)





Cleaning:













































« Last Edit: December 12, 2019, 08:39:24 PM by Zep654 »
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

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« Reply #10 on: December 12, 2019, 07:57:48 PM »
























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Zep654

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« Reply #11 on: December 12, 2019, 08:10:26 PM »






Degreeing the cam.  Checked out at 106 intake centerline = perfect



























Measuring for Pushrod length(s):













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Zep654

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« Reply #12 on: December 12, 2019, 08:19:59 PM »
Put the manifold on and then noticed the new tall fabricated valve covers didn't fit by millimeters (the old ones were M/T fined covers that had stamped edges on them and fit).  Had to take it all apart:



Forgot the arp oil pump driveshaft like an idiot (my first time doin this!!):









Lockin 'er out at 31 degrees BTDC.  Hoping to run pump gas with my comp ratio, but I have AV Gas at my disposal if needed:









Making the transport table/cradle for the dyno:









  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Zep654

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« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2019, 08:24:58 PM »














More updates to come. Please let me know if you can see the pictures.  I just spent two hours trying to get them on here.  I'd hate to have to try again haha  Thanks guys!!!

Any guesses on horsepower?? (if it doesn't blow up    ....hopefully)
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

Flusher

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« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2019, 08:49:29 PM »
The picture are great!  Love the boat and the effort!
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

Zep654

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« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2019, 08:52:46 PM »
Thank you sir!!  I have way more, but they aren't as exciting haha.  I can't wait to get it runnin. 

If you guys have any opinions on the setup, parts, build.....go right ahead and ask or tell.  I'm all ears.  I know the cam isn't optimal, but I am just trying to get it running good for next year.  Thanks guys
« Last Edit: December 12, 2019, 08:56:30 PM by Zep654 »
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« Reply #16 on: December 13, 2019, 04:05:51 AM »
Nice job, I like your choice of scoop way better then the one that came with the boat. That boat should haul ass. Good luck with the rest of the build


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08chevyguy

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« Reply #17 on: December 13, 2019, 04:54:51 AM »
Love this thread. Gorgeous boat and should be a nice runner 🤟

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« Reply #18 on: December 13, 2019, 09:05:29 AM »



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« Reply #19 on: December 13, 2019, 05:41:42 PM »










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Zep654

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« Reply #20 on: December 13, 2019, 05:46:41 PM »
Silly Question, but does it matter how the belt is routed?  The way I have it is how it was when I received it.  However, I see almost all other blown engines route it toward the outside of the idler pulley.  If I do that, it is kind of close to the fuel line, but I think it would work that way too.  Opinions?    I am at a stand still until I can get to the dyno.  Only thing that sucks is, the dyno needs to pull the throttle backwards and my setup is a hard cable that pushes up on the "wheel" on the back of the carbs/blower.  I was thinking of rigging up a mini pulley on a bracket and then crosby clamping a cable to the "wheel" just for the dyno.  I didn't want to change my whole setup just for the dyno
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« Reply #21 on: December 14, 2019, 05:48:25 AM »
I run mine on the outside because it has to clear a timing cover mounted fuel pump.  I have seen them setup like yours many times.  I don't think it would  be an issue.  I adjust mine a little tighter than typically recommended.  When you watch it running, you will see it moving a lot.  I wouldn't want the teeth to touch.

Thought you might find this video interesting, it explained a lot for me. 
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« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2019, 06:35:23 AM »
Thank you for that video. It was very informative. I currently have it set to 1Ē of slack. I hope that is right on the money.

I just hope I can get the engine going on the first try and get it broken in, carbs tuned, timing set perfect and then..... figure out how Iím going to somehow get some antifreeze in the block so I donít completely ruin all my hard work over winter

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« Reply #23 on: December 14, 2019, 07:41:25 AM »
BDS recommends 1/4" from straight across the longest side (drive side).  I don't think that is tight enough.  I pull mine tight.  If the belt comes off, it will run through the boat like the Texas Chainsaw Massacre.
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« Reply #24 on: December 14, 2019, 04:12:02 PM »
The blower shop says 3/4"- 1" cold which is 1/4" hot.  Are you saying to set it 1/4" cold?

TBS instructions:

 "Allow ĺĒ to 1Ēof side-to-side movement on the straight (long) side of the belt. With
the engine at full operating temperature you should have ľĒ of side-to-side movement.
*Note: Do Not over tighten the belt. Doing so can cause severe damage to the crankshaft and drive components."
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

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« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2019, 08:28:13 PM »
Old hydraulic cam specs compared to new solid roller cam:

Am I going in the right direction, the wrong direction or, "it will work, but not the best setup" (note: I didn't pick this cam myself)

Old:

Intake duration at .050:  232
Exhaust duration at .050:  237
Intake valve lift: .547
Exhaust valve lift: .547
LSA: 114
Degrees of overlap: 6.5

New:

Intake duration at .050:  242
Exhaust duration at .050:  248
Intake valve lift: .646
Exhaust valve lift: .653
LSA: 110
Degrees of overlap: 25

Thoughts??
  • Boat #1: 1975 Hallett Bubbledeck

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« Reply #26 on: December 15, 2019, 05:34:38 AM »
The blower shop says 3/4"- 1" cold which is 1/4" hot.  Are you saying to set it 1/4" cold?

TBS instructions:

 "Allow ĺĒ to 1Ēof side-to-side movement on the straight (long) side of the belt. With
the engine at full operating temperature you should have ľĒ of side-to-side movement.
*Note: Do Not over tighten the belt. Doing so can cause severe damage to the crankshaft and drive components."
If you feel more comfortable with TBS recommendation, then you should stick with that.  With your belt routing, you have more degrees of wrap around the crankshaft and blower pulleys.  I think it would be more difficult for the belt to jump the lips of the idler pulley because centrifugal forces will try to force the belt into the idler pulley.

My concerns would be; the belt coming into contact with itself on the inside, and the belt jumping teeth on the pulleys.  I wouldn't want the belt shredding right behind me.

When you dyno it, you will have a safe environment to break in the engine and make adjustments before you start making power pulls.
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« Reply #27 on: December 15, 2019, 06:08:02 AM »
The blower shop says 3/4"- 1" cold which is 1/4" hot.  Are you saying to set it 1/4" cold?

TBS instructions:

 "Allow ĺĒ to 1Ēof side-to-side movement on the straight (long) side of the belt. With
the engine at full operating temperature you should have ľĒ of side-to-side movement.
*Note: Do Not over tighten the belt. Doing so can cause severe damage to the crankshaft and drive components."
Re-reading TBS instructions, it specifically states "side-to-side movement," not deflection in a single direction from static.  Here is diagram from the BDS catalog.  It may be an issue of semantics.  Either way, you will know when you run it.
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #28 on: December 15, 2019, 06:09:20 AM »
Re-reading TBS instructions, it specifically states "side-to-side movement," not deflection in a single direction from static.  Here is diagram from the BDS catalog.  It may be an issue of semantics.  Either way, you will know when you run it.
No coffee yet, forgot the picture
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #29 on: December 15, 2019, 06:56:22 AM »
I apologize if you thought I didnít trust you. Iím glad youíre helping me. I just wanted to confirm. It seems like we are both on the sam page!!  The diagram confirms that as well.

 I made the throttle for the dyno, itís kinda flimsy but as long as it can make 5-6 runs to 6500, itíll be easy to switch er back.

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« Reply #30 on: December 15, 2019, 07:01:31 AM »


I apologize if you thought I didnít trust you.

No worries!  No apologies necessary.  You should question everything.  Keep posting.

Cheers
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #31 on: December 20, 2019, 05:35:55 PM »
awesome post
(we all love pictures)!
ur in this balls deep / looking forward
to seeing this ship get wet


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« Reply #32 on: December 21, 2019, 07:39:21 AM »
I walked out to the garage this morning and noticed gear oil leaking from the pump upper right fitting (the one at like 2 o clock...the fill hole).  Any idea why this would happen?  The other hole isn't leaking.  I hope this isn't the case, but is there any chance somehow there was water in there and it froze which expanded and pushed the oil out?  I should note, I only had zerk fittings so that is what I put in at the time after I filled it up with oil.  Maybe it is leaking from the zerk?

On the engine front,  I am still hoping to get it dyno'd within the next few weeks. I did get the throttle cable setup for the dyno jimmy rigged up



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« Reply #33 on: December 21, 2019, 07:42:41 AM »
I walked out to the garage this morning and noticed gear oil leaking from the pump upper right fitting (the one at like 2 o clock...the fill hole).  Any idea why this would happen?  The other hole isn't leaking.  I hope this isn't the case, but is there any chance somehow there was water in there and it froze which expanded and pushed the oil out?  I should note, I only had zerk fittings so that is what I put in at the time after I filled it up with oil.  Maybe it is just leaking from the zerk and there is no issue?

On the engine side of things,  I am still hoping to get it dyno'd within the next few weeks. I did get the throttle cable setup for the dyno jimmy rigged up and the dust covers on ready for transport:



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« Reply #34 on: January 29, 2020, 05:17:47 PM »
Five days until D Day









Wish me luck!  I hope she doesn't blow up!
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« Reply #35 on: January 29, 2020, 05:39:20 PM »
Can't wait to see it run
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #36 on: January 30, 2020, 11:13:47 AM »
🤟

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« Reply #37 on: February 04, 2020, 03:40:48 PM »
Took the engine over to Andy Jensen in Nescopeck, PA.  He and his guys are awesome!  Couldn't have asked for a better experience. 













93 Pump gas.  31 degrees timing.  9 pounds of boost.  2.5% overdriven.  472 BBC.   7.9:1 compression

741 HP.    693 TQ.   64 psi oil pressure at 6000 rpm.  38 gallons of fuel per hour (!!! hahaha)


I am stoaked to say the least!!!!  Now I just have to stab it in the boat and hook everything back up!  I can't wait to be rippin!!
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Zep654

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« Reply #38 on: February 04, 2020, 03:42:41 PM »
If you guys can tell me how to post videos from facebook on here, I'll do it.  It sounds awesome
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« Reply #39 on: February 12, 2020, 05:53:07 PM »
Droppin her in!!!





























« Last Edit: February 12, 2020, 05:58:51 PM by Zep654 »
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« Reply #40 on: February 13, 2020, 06:12:38 AM »
Took the engine over to Andy Jensen in Nescopeck, PA.  He and his guys are awesome!  Couldn't have asked for a better experience. 













93 Pump gas.  31 degrees timing.  9 pounds of boost.  2.5% overdriven.  472 BBC.   7.9:1 compression

741 HP.    693 TQ.   64 psi oil pressure at 6000 rpm.  38 gallons of fuel per hour (!!! hahaha)


I am stoaked to say the least!!!!  Now I just have to stab it in the boat and hook everything back up!  I can't wait to be rippin!!
The columns with "*" is uncorrected torque  and horsepower numbers and the columns with "**" are corrected numbers?
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #41 on: February 13, 2020, 06:13:37 AM »
What's the 411 on the yellow Vette?
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

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« Reply #42 on: February 13, 2020, 05:52:52 PM »
The * column is at 28 degrees timing, and the ** column is at 31 degrees timing.  Nothing is different other than that.  I am beyond happy with the results considering I was on 93 pump gas and only overdriven by 2.5%.....

As far as the vette.  That is just a c7r car cover.  It is a 2017 Z06 with 610 to the wheels.  Z07 package with the carbon ceramic brakes and stage 3 aero, including the competition suede seats.  It is my dream car and is a blast!!!  I've had her to 175 and it had more but was climbing very slow.  Not like my older 04 Z with 725 rwhp.   That would spin the tires at 90 mph in 3rd!!  Took me a loooooong time to save up for this one (and to find the one with all the options I wanted before I did a few things to make it my own) (I made the shift knob a few years ago and it fit perfect on the mgw shifter so I ran with it).  70 mph-0 in 128 feet.  Almost 1.2 lateral g's.


















Only mods are:

Borla catless x pipe
MGW shifter
BMS air filter
Katech ported throttle body

Back with the boat tonight. I got the water lines plumed, fuel lines on, engine mounts torqued, few other odds and ends...

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« Reply #43 on: February 16, 2020, 11:15:42 AM »
Fuel and water lines are plumbed (wish I could have went with braided lines and an fittings, but I figured this will get the job done and you can barely see the lines under the blower/engine shroud):





10 hours laterrrrrrrrr.  Puke tank bungs are welded and the valve covers are polished!!!  It was my first ever time tig welding aluminum by the way, so take it easy on the "bubblegum" jokes bahahaha.  Can't wait to get this thing on the water:

















« Last Edit: February 16, 2020, 11:19:39 AM by Zep654 »
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« Reply #44 on: February 16, 2020, 04:10:57 PM »
Imco puke tank and breather lines are on.  (note:  There were already holes in the transom for the puke tank [oddly] so I used them.  I know its a bit lower then the heads, but I can't mount it to the back of the blower like I wanted because of the throttle setup)  Just have to hook up some wiring and order some longer arp bolts for the valve covers and ignition box layout

















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« Reply #45 on: February 21, 2020, 05:42:14 PM »
It's DONE!!!!




















Now I just need to get it insured.  Had insurance with Progressive after answering all their questions honestly.  Then somehow they didn't know it was an exposed engine, so they dropped me.  I cannot for the life of me find a company that will insure a 700+ hp, 45 year old boat, with over transom headers and an exposed engine. (in Pennsylvania)




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« Reply #46 on: February 22, 2020, 09:12:04 AM »

Now I just need to get it insured.  Had insurance with Progressive after answering all their questions honestly.  Then somehow they didn't know it was an exposed engine, so they dropped me.  I cannot for the life of me find a company that will insure a 700+ hp, 45 year old boat, with over transom headers and an exposed engine. (in Pennsylvania)

http://www.socaljetboats.com/boat-insurance/?PHPSESSID=k1ibt20uvqqlotpil6c5ie4lt4

If you use the SCJB website, there is an insurance section. A lot of guys have gotten insurance through Nikki.

Great job on the boat and the detailed thread.  :thumbup:

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« Reply #47 on: February 22, 2020, 09:55:24 AM »
Thank you for your help and compliment, sir.  I have called Nikki and also talked with her associate Kathryn Yeager.  They don't cover my area.  They did refer me to a few other insurers, but none are willing to seal the deal.  One, oddly, was because they don't insure boats over 26 years old (that's only 1994 build year....doesn't seem that old to me).  I've called geico, progressive, state farm, markal, liberty, farmers, kincaid, grundy and hagerty.  Wozencraft is checking at the moment and seems to be my last hope.  I didn't think insurance would be this hard
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« Reply #48 on: February 22, 2020, 10:36:46 AM »
    just loved following your project,
    lots & lots of pictures !!!
    insurance (or as i call it 'Legalized Theft')
    is also a dilemma in my neck of the woods
    describing my 40yr old boat to 23yr old girl over the phone
    I could hear the crickets in the background ...
    when I forwarded pictures to her
    her comment was 'wow...cool boat'
    it's the rarity and power they just don't know
    what they are dealing with ??
    Great job and hope your coverage gets sorted


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« Reply #49 on: February 22, 2020, 04:02:40 PM »
Thank you sir!!!  I canít wait to take it out!!  (And everybody loves pictures!!).  I hope the insurance stuff works with Wozencraft. Even if I have to pay extra, thatís fine as long as Iím covered

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« Reply #50 on: February 22, 2020, 08:56:50 PM »
Thank you for your help and compliment, sir.  I have called Nikki and also talked with her associate Kathryn Yeager.  They don't cover my area.  They did refer me to a few other insurers, but none are willing to seal the deal.  One, oddly, was because they don't insure boats over 26 years old (that's only 1994 build year....doesn't seem that old to me).  I've called geico, progressive, state farm, markal, liberty, farmers, kincaid, grundy and hagerty.  Wozencraft is checking at the moment and seems to be my last hope.  I didn't think insurance would be this hard
Wow youíve covered all the bases. Nick Rose is also a name a lot of boaters have mentioned. The website says nationwide

http://nickroseinsurance.com/marine/

I also heard that a few times about a 20 year old boat being uninsurable. Good luck.


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« Reply #51 on: February 27, 2020, 05:11:35 PM »




Still no luck on the insurance.  Might be able to get it if I do the Tres Martin Performance school, but its almost $3000.
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« Reply #52 on: February 27, 2020, 07:33:58 PM »
Wow, those classes are really intended for large sport or offshore boats... not sure how relatable it is to these style boats. Never the less, Tres is an icon on that industry.


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