Jet Boat Plumbing

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73Challenger

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« on: May 02, 2013, 09:42:10 AM »
Hey everyone i am new to the Forum. I am rebuilding my grandpas 1973 Challenger. He was the Origional owner of it. He took the motor out like 10 years ago and now i am finally rebuilding it. I have fully rebuild motor and was wondering how to Plumb the water system. I know there is one inlet off the Jet that would give the boat water. I also have a dump that goes out the back of the boat. I am running Bassets. Does anyone have a Diagram on how to hook this up. The way he had it i do not think is correct by looking at pictures. If anyone could help me out i would appreciate it THANK YOU!!!


muffbro

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« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2013, 09:58:48 AM »
Welcome !!!!!   Post pics of yer boat!!

Ready or not!!

Hang tight.   One will be posted shortly
  • Boat #1: 1985 Bahner  -  19' 11"
I always wanted to be somebody...

I guess I should have been more specific.

73Challenger

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« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2013, 10:44:38 AM »
Thanks... I'm stoked for this thing to be done.. It has cost me way more then I though it would... Guess I should of know that..

Chad krieger

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« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2013, 11:02:06 AM »
U better make sure that the cracks by the jet don't go through the transum u will have more problems then u think. Go on the inside of the jet and push around the jet where I connects to the transum it might be rotted. Good luck bro

73Challenger

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« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2013, 11:09:41 AM »
Ohh Please dont tell me that.. I am pretty sure its fine tho. Ill for sure check into it.

RockyCapone

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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2013, 11:56:05 AM »
Oh no here we go again.
start here:
http://www.jetboatperformance.biz/pages/FAQ.html

and do a search here tons of info.
1978 Southwind Formula 1 T body
454 Berkley
IF I GET BORED AND HAVE NOTHING TO DO I'M CALLING GTJETS AND ASKING HIM IF I SHOULD RUN A T-STAT IN MY JETBOAT--THAT SHOULD BURN OFF 8 HOURS EASY
....it would have been cheaper to spend our money on cocaine and hookers

73Challenger

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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2013, 12:11:46 PM »
Oh no here we go again.
start here:
http://www.jetboatperformance.biz/pages/FAQ.html

and do a search here tons of info.

I actually found that before i posted this. My grandpa had it set up completly diffrent thats what made me question things. He had it where both the bassets hooked came out of the Thermostat. One inlets on the block was hooked up to water off the JET and the other side of the block was a DUMP out the back. So i was just confused on why he had it like this. Could very well be he had it incorrect but i do remember the boat running.

jet fever

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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2013, 08:55:17 PM »
Oh boy....

Check out my post about two months ago bro I have pics and tell u exactly how to plumb it with a thermostat.  Lets not argue if it needs one or not.  It don't need it but it can have one.  Set up my way u set it and forget it no turning any valves once set.  Tomorrow Ill copy and paste.  I posted before in a thread called water pressure.

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  • Boat #1: 76 Hallett Bubble Deck

jet fever

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« Reply #8 on: May 11, 2013, 06:56:18 AM »
I have a Thermostat 160* with a by-pass in the Thermostat housing to solve the Eng temp issue and no gate valves to solve water pressure issue the Reason = ( Gate valves may cause excess PRESSURE into block Or over transom headers if "Leaned out" to achieve proper TEMP in block, your restricting the flow on the exit to keep the water slow enough to keep at a warm temp.)

On over the transom headers one line goes from your Themostat housing and feeds your Header PRESSURE TEE which some have a gate valve to control inlet water PRESSURE because you want a fine mist off the Headers.   

One line goes to a gate valve and then overboard If you Lean out the gate valve your putting more water PRESSURE to the Header TEE because it cant dump overboard and it may end up with water in your oil and vise versa if its open too far too much water dumps overboard & you blue your Headers

I have a 12 psi Regulator with built in Relief valve off of the pump Jet drive "Water Feed" to not allow excess water PRESSURE into my block (the water dumps overboard if relief lifts I had to install a new outlet)

The water that feeds my wet stacks is supplied now from the Thermostat housing ( You could use from port on the intake manifold water crossover) that runs to the hose that goes to the gate valve on the Header TEE to control flow to the wet stacks without interupting water flow exiting the engine.  This gate valve is not disrupting "PRESSURE".  Adjust this gate till you get a fine mist from your Headers they don't need a bunch of water

The new route of the water exiting my engine is now from each fitting off of the Thermostat housing.  One fitting exits the block and dumps overboad the other feeds the wet stacks.



« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 07:09:16 AM by jet fever »
  • Boat #1: 76 Hallett Bubble Deck

jet fever

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« Reply #9 on: May 11, 2013, 07:41:41 AM »
Pump to 12 PSI Reg to tee
Tee to water pump inlet through motor out 160 Thermostat housing
From thermostat housing one line to headers one line to dump overboard.
The two are divorced Block cooling no restrictions to affect pressure - Your pressure is controlled before entering block Thermostat controls desired Temp and header cooling has no restrictions with its seperate water source you are just throttling that gate to control that water to Headers for FINE MIST

This is NOT the only way but my opinion solves Block TEMP swing issues - PRESSURE issues - COLORED header issues -

Set it and forget it

I'm talking about the whole engine cooling AND Header set up plumbing here You could use gates BUT that way you can't divorce water flow and pressure issues. I know people wanna put two cents in but You cant control that flow to adjust temp without affecting block pressure.  When you throttle back the rear gate your building pressure inside block.  Period.  Yes You can use only gates but your working harder not smarter. 
« Last Edit: May 11, 2013, 07:49:55 AM by jet fever »
  • Boat #1: 76 Hallett Bubble Deck

 


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