Lockable dipstick

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B.CR33CH

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« on: August 01, 2016, 11:26:46 AM »
I'm having some issues with the dipstick popping out and loosing oil, anyone run a locking dipstick? any recommendations?


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« Reply #1 on: August 01, 2016, 11:54:06 AM »
More information.

What engine,  what breathers?

When does the stick push?
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B.CR33CH

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« Reply #2 on: August 01, 2016, 12:42:21 PM »

More information.

What engine,  what breathers?

When does the stick push?
489 stroker Chevy breathers are billet specialties both are pcv with hoses to the bottom of transom 10qt Dooley pan. I think it's mainly just when I hit some rough chop and pops out, it's a universal braided dip stick mounted on a header bolts pretty sure the heat effected the oring and now has very very little tension holding it in I rigged a spring to a water line and held it in rest of the trip no oil came out.


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« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2016, 04:11:23 PM »
I zip tie mine it bounces out. Smooth day no problem ruff day oil everywhere. Sandcar I do the same.


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Your Mom

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« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2016, 06:39:47 PM »
Take it off an put it somewhere in boat safe... Go get a rubber vac plug...done. BBF's are a must that way to.

roost

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« Reply #5 on: August 01, 2016, 09:53:03 PM »
489 stroker Chevy breathers are billet specialties both are pcv with hoses to the bottom of transom 10qt Dooley pan. I think it's mainly just when I hit some rough chop and pops out, it's a universal braided dip stick mounted on a header bolts pretty sure the heat effected the oring and now has very very little tension holding it in I rigged a spring to a water line and held it in rest of the trip no oil came out.


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PCV's won't let the crankcase breathe under load, so the issue is your crankcase is pressurized and blows the dipstick out. Put a conventional breather on one side and your problem will "cure" itself.
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« Reply #6 on: August 01, 2016, 10:08:55 PM »
489 stroker Chevy breathers are billet specialties both are pcv with hoses to the bottom of transom


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Not enough. I like the tossing the stick under the seat thing.   :thumbup:

You have to think about it in a weird way. The crankcase pressure is trying to leave in the same holes the oil is trying to run down. Open her up some more and maybe it will cure itself.

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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Ray

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« Reply #7 on: August 01, 2016, 10:09:49 PM »
PCV's won't let the crankcase breathe under load, so the issue is your crankcase is pressurized and blows the dipstick out. Put a conventional breather on one side and your problem will "cure" itself.

Took too damn long to hit post... Spot on bro.  :thumbup:

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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« Reply #8 on: August 02, 2016, 02:49:41 AM »
 OK I have to ask, why would someone run two breathers, both with PCVs, then run both hoses from the PCVs out through the bottom of the transom ?  ???
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« Reply #9 on: August 02, 2016, 03:16:46 AM »
Hmmmmmmm...... just bad parenting I guess!!! Lol
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« Reply #10 on: August 02, 2016, 03:53:23 AM »


Not enough. I like the tossing the stick under the seat thing.   :thumbup:

You have to think about it in a weird way. The crankcase pressure is trying to leave in the same holes the oil is trying to run down. Open her up some more and maybe it will cure itself.

GT
negative it's been wide open I'm 100% sure it's from bouncing around, I know that a vacuum is created that why I want to get a good dipstick to solve it, I was honestly just asking if anyone has used a locking dipstick and any preferred brands


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B.CR33CH

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« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2016, 03:58:34 AM »

OK I have to ask, why would someone run two breathers, both with PCVs, then run both hoses from the PCVs out through the bottom of the transom ?  ???
they aren't ran out the back of the transom I worded that wrongly they are zip tie to my rail kit by fly wheel cover with pcv valves, waiting on a oil catch can make mount and connect the to lines to it


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B.CR33CH

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« Reply #12 on: August 02, 2016, 04:04:44 AM »

Hmmmmmmm...... just bad parenting I guess!!! Lol
coming from the guy who hooks his distributor plug up backwards when It comes with a manual and post a complaint about MSD lol I guess we both had bad parents!!


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aquaholic72

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« Reply #13 on: August 02, 2016, 04:33:47 AM »
coming from the guy who hooks his distributor plug up backwards when It comes with a manual and post a complaint about MSD lol I guess we both had bad parents!!


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lmfao!!!! My parents were assholes!!! But just so you all know, I'll take a pick of the diagram on the back of my box that I followed. .. still didn't say shit about how the wire colors crossed..!!! Just sayin,, green purple to orange n purple with no explanation. . Come on now,, lmfao at least I cough it quick...
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B.CR33CH

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« Reply #14 on: August 02, 2016, 05:29:48 AM »
lmfao!!!! My parents were assholes!!! But just so you all know, I'll take a pick of the diagram on the back of my box that I followed. .. still didn't say shit about how the wire colors crossed..!!! Just sayin,, green purple to orange n purple with no explanation. . Come on now,, lmfao at least I cough it quick...
its all good man I'm just messing with you!


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« Last Edit: August 02, 2016, 06:31:03 AM by B.CR33CH »

roost

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« Reply #15 on: August 02, 2016, 08:00:58 AM »
they aren't ran out the back of the transom I worded that wrongly they are zip tie to my rail kit by fly wheel cover with pcv valves, waiting on a oil catch can make mount and connect the to lines to it


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If you go with a puke tank, get rid of the PCV's. You're mixing automotive technology with a jet and the result isn't good. Puke tank with hoses from both v/covers, breather on the tank and NO PCV's. PCV's only evacuate at idle and off-idle (until intake pressure drops). Don't know how much you idle, but by going with 1 open breather you create air circulation from atmosphere to the intake at idle and allow the crankcase to vent to atmosphere when vacuum drops and the crankcase builds pressure. 
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« Reply #16 on: August 02, 2016, 08:15:27 AM »
negative it's been wide open I'm 100% sure it's from bouncing around, I know that a vacuum is created that why I want to get a good dipstick to solve it, I was honestly just asking if anyone has used a locking dipstick and any preferred brands


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Bet you a billion dollars the crankcase is not in a vacuum running balls out.

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

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« Reply #17 on: August 02, 2016, 08:20:08 AM »
Another thing.

Where is the vacuum coming from? The engine makes virtually zero at wide open throttle.

It's not gobs down a freeway,  it's climbing Pikes Peak at wide open throttle.

GT
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

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« Reply #18 on: August 02, 2016, 09:15:19 AM »

If you go with a puke tank, get rid of the PCV's. You're mixing automotive technology with a jet and the result isn't good. Puke tank with hoses from both v/covers, breather on the tank and NO PCV's. PCV's only evacuate at idle and off-idle (until intake pressure drops). Don't know how much you idle, but by going with 1 open breather you create air circulation from atmosphere to the intake at idle and allow the crankcase to vent to atmosphere when vacuum drops and the crankcase builds pressure.
Thanks I'll do that when I get the tank. For now I'll ditch one pcv breather and get a normal breather and a lockable dipstick from Lokar


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« Reply #19 on: August 02, 2016, 10:53:20 AM »
Bet you a billion dollars the crankcase is not in a vacuum running balls out.

GT

Another thing.

Where is the vacuum coming from? The engine makes virtually zero at wide open throttle.

It's not gobs down a freeway,  it's climbing Pikes Peak at wide open throttle.

GT


If you go with a puke tank, get rid of the PCV's. You're mixing automotive technology with a jet and the result isn't good. Puke tank with hoses from both v/covers, breather on the tank and NO PCV's. PCV's only evacuate at idle and off-idle (until intake pressure drops). Don't know how much you idle, but by going with 1 open breather you create air circulation from atmosphere to the intake at idle and allow the crankcase to vent to atmosphere when vacuum drops and the crankcase builds pressure. 

 With the hoses zip tied to the rail kit, there is no vacuum anytime. He never said the PCVs are going to the intake manifold. 


 
Thanks I'll do that when I get the tank. For now I'll ditch one pcv breather and get a normal breather and a lockable dipstick from Lokar


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 Are the PCV hoses going to the intake manifold ? If your just running the hoses down to the rail kit, and not to the intake, ditch both of the PCVs and get two normal breathers on the valve covers (no hoses anywhere).

 Like roost said, PCV needs vacuum from the intake to work, one PCV hooked to the intake and one open breather on the other valve cover.

 And again like roost said, once you get the puke tank, just straight hoses to the tank and a breather on the tank.


 Butt all that aside, I have one of those universal braided dip sticks on my car too. And it doesn't stay in place very well once things get hot either.  So your right, its probably bouncing out mainly from heat and vibration.
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« Reply #20 on: August 02, 2016, 11:07:04 AM »


 With the hoses zip tied to the rail kit, there is no vacuum anytime. He never said the PCVs are going to the intake manifold. 


 
 Are the PCV hoses going to the intake manifold ? If your just running the hoses down to the rail kit, and not to the intake, ditch both of the PCVs and get two normal breathers on the valve covers (no hoses anywhere).

 Like roost said, PCV needs vacuum from the intake to work, one PCV hooked to the intake and one open breather on the other valve cover.

 And again like roost said, once you get the puke tank, just straight hoses to the tank and a breather on the tank.


 Butt all that aside, I have one of those universal braided dip sticks on my car too. And it doesn't stay in place very well once things get hot either.  So your right, its probably bouncing out mainly from heat and vibration.
Thanks for all the input I'm going to make some changes and see what happens clearing the information I was given was not correct. I knew that it was never helping crankcase pressure but I didn't know it was effecting the breathing of it. I also think I have valve cover issues they barley clear my stud girdles maybe need to get some different ones to allow more volume in the heads? Now can I put the catch can on one side or should both valve covers connect to the catch can?


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« Reply #21 on: August 02, 2016, 11:36:06 AM »
Thanks for all the input I'm going to make some changes and see what happens clearing the information I was given was not correct. I knew that it was never helping crankcase pressure but I didn't know it was effecting the breathing of it. I also think I have valve cover issues they barley clear my stud girdles maybe need to get some different ones to allow more volume in the heads? Now can I put the catch can on one side or should both valve covers connect to the catch can?


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 Once you get the tank, both valve covers go directly to the tank (large free flowing hoses). Then the tank needs a good breather or breathers on it.  And run the hoses so they the don't sag in the middle.  They need to drain either back into the valve covers or the tank. If you have a big saggy section in the middle the hose will fill with oil eventually and the system wont breath right. 
Welcome to the club of broken boats :o  Pay here$ bend over and move along.

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« Reply #22 on: August 02, 2016, 11:41:05 AM »
Thanks for all the input I'm going to make some changes and see what happens clearing the information I was given was not correct. I knew that it was never helping crankcase pressure but I didn't know it was effecting the breathing of it. I also think I have valve cover issues they barley clear my stud girdles maybe need to get some different ones to allow more volume in the heads? Now can I put the catch can on one side or should both valve covers connect to the catch can?


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Catch cans look cool and all, but if it were me I'd just replace one breather and test it. I haven't found many engines that blow out the dipstick when vented properly (unless they're on their last leg).
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B.CR33CH

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« Reply #23 on: August 02, 2016, 11:53:35 AM »

Catch cans look cool and all, but if it were me I'd just replace one breather and test it. I haven't found many engines that blow out the dipstick when vented properly (unless they're on their last leg).
okay I'll try that then I'm 100% sure it pops out in rough water only not do to anything else I have a breather I'll throw it on get a locking dipstick and go from there...


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« Reply #24 on: August 02, 2016, 12:45:43 PM »

 With the hoses zip tied to the rail kit, there is no vacuum anytime. He never said the PCVs are going to the intake manifold. 






negative it's been wide open I'm 100% sure it's from bouncing around, I know that a vacuum is created that why I want to get a good dipstick to solve it, I was honestly just asking if anyone has used a locking dipstick and any preferred brands




He stated under a vacuum. I said "nope".

Don't you have some parts to peddle? No puke tanks?

GT
  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
  • Boat #2: 19' Bubble deck Jet BBC Berkeley
If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
Ray

 


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