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What did you do to your boat today?

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loweryjennifer

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« Reply #1725 on: February 16, 2015, 12:29:35 PM »
Thanks guys. I found a pump. I am sorry but I do not have answers to your questions.


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GT Jets

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« Reply #1726 on: February 16, 2015, 12:50:32 PM »
Thanks guys. I found a pump. I am sorry but I do not have answers to your questions.


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Make sure to go through it before installing. Catch problems before they're problems.

Good luck.

GT

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  • Boat #1: 1992 Carrera 20.5 Elite (I/O bitches)
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If i get some free time tonight at work, ill play with it and post it for everyone to see.

Time to man up and yank it John!  :banghead:
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« Reply #1727 on: February 16, 2015, 12:58:51 PM »
At the very least, make sure that the splines and thrust bearing are good. If not, you can destroy an engine and/or suction housing quick.
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

Tylertjeep73

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« Reply #1728 on: February 16, 2015, 02:57:42 PM »
Getting rid of some nasty foam

hallett1974

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« Reply #1729 on: February 16, 2015, 02:59:34 PM »
Nice looking good.
Is it time for the River yet?????

lifted250

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« Reply #1730 on: February 16, 2015, 05:34:34 PM »
Rebuilt pump and changed boats doing new transom


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lifted250

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« Reply #1731 on: February 16, 2015, 05:37:28 PM »
Pics


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jamminjetta

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« Reply #1732 on: February 17, 2015, 01:44:36 AM »
I looked at pictures. Come on summer.


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HaulsBalls

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« Reply #1733 on: February 17, 2015, 08:56:14 AM »
Started working on removing the trailer so we can flip this big dog.  Once wrong side up I can fix a bunch of rock bar damage from the previous owner and get everything back to square.  Now that the intake is reset I can also blend the keel transition to feed the pump better.  Probably shoot gel on the bottom before it goes back on the trailer.
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Bunger

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« Reply #1734 on: February 17, 2015, 09:46:15 AM »

Started working on removing the trailer so we can flip this big dog.  Once wrong side up I can fix a bunch of rock bar damage from the previous owner and get everything back to square.  Now that the intake is reset I can also blend the keel transition to feed the pump better.  Probably shoot gel on the bottom before it goes back on the trailer.


That thing is bad ass


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« Reply #1735 on: February 17, 2015, 09:55:31 AM »
Started working on removing the trailer so we can flip this big dog.  Once wrong side up I can fix a bunch of rock bar damage from the previous owner and get everything back to square.  Now that the intake is reset I can also blend the keel transition to feed the pump better.  Probably shoot gel on the bottom before it goes back on the trailer.

Wow, that is an ambitious project.

Please post more pictures of how you rigged the stern.  What are you lifting from on the bow?

Thanks in advance.
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

HaulsBalls

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« Reply #1736 on: February 17, 2015, 10:46:47 AM »
Wow, that is an ambitious project.

Please post more pictures of how you rigged the stern.  What are you lifting from on the bow?

Thanks in advance.

Ambitious was actually purchasing this pile, it is bordering on insanity at this point but this is the disease that is jet boats.  I took a few pointers from some of the old timers doing the big Schiada and Spectra flips.  I built a sort of rotisserie as just about the center of the transom with some extra metal stock I had.  Utilized a few of the existing holes in the transom and plated the interior side with aluminum for a backer to the hardware.  Wrapped a chain around this mount twice to prevent it from slipping off and it allows for the boat to rotate around this point.  I will reset the bow strap to one side instead of straight on to naturally roll the boat as we lift.  At this point the boat is empty with only a sub floor installed, more pics to come as we actually roll it over.
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JARVIS

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« Reply #1737 on: February 17, 2015, 11:02:55 AM »
So the chain steel that chain is wrapped around... just slides as it rotates? And your supporting the load with your two hoists only right?... No stands?
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HaulsBalls

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« Reply #1738 on: February 17, 2015, 01:10:09 PM »
So the chain steel that chain is wrapped around... just slides as it rotates? And your supporting the load with your two hoists only right?... No stands?

The steel chain slips around the steel tube that is welded to my "rottisserie" mount if that makes sense?  Light pressure on either corner of the transom is all it takes to get this thing to rotate. Currently I have it supported on stands off the trailer as we create space for this to happen, once flipped it will land on these stand direct to the stringers for support.  Placing it back on the trailer upside down doesn't set it at a good working height, stands will allow it to sit lower.
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« Reply #1739 on: February 17, 2015, 02:01:09 PM »
The steel chain slips around the steel tube that is welded to my "rottisserie" mount if that makes sense?  Light pressure on either corner of the transom is all it takes to get this thing to rotate. Currently I have it supported on stands off the trailer as we create space for this to happen, once flipped it will land on these stand direct to the stringers for support.  Placing it back on the trailer upside down doesn't set it at a good working height, stands will allow it to sit lower.

Will you continue to support the bow with the cherry picker?
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

JARVIS

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« Reply #1740 on: February 17, 2015, 02:31:15 PM »
The steel chain slips around the steel tube that is welded to my "rottisserie" mount if that makes sense?  Light pressure on either corner of the transom is all it takes to get this thing to rotate. Currently I have it supported on stands off the trailer as we create space for this to happen, once flipped it will land on these stand direct to the stringers for support.  Placing it back on the trailer upside down doesn't set it at a good working height, stands will allow it to sit lower.

totally understand, thanks!
  • Boat #1: '81 tahiti mini day cruiser
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HaulsBalls

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« Reply #1741 on: February 17, 2015, 02:57:28 PM »
Will you continue to support the bow with the cherry picker?

Just for lifting, it currently sits on stands and bracing.  The bow eye is backed by a 2"x 6" sandwiched by a 3/8" aluminum plate on the interior of the hull, this was the first step to ensure it could handle the roll and not blow out the bow.
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« Reply #1742 on: February 17, 2015, 03:08:49 PM »
Just for lifting, it currently sits on stands and bracing.  The bow eye is backed by a 2"x 6" sandwiched by a 3/8" aluminum plate on the interior of the hull, this was the first step to ensure it could handle the roll and not blow out the bow.

I am debating doing a n almost identical hull, that's why I ask.  Will it balance just being supported by the stringers or are you going to support under the bow as well?

Thanks again,

Joe
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

HaulsBalls

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« Reply #1743 on: February 17, 2015, 03:39:18 PM »
I am debating doing a n almost identical hull, that's why I ask.  Will it balance just being supported by the stringers or are you going to support under the bow as well?

Thanks again,

Joe

I think it will need something under the bow along with the stringer support.  This thing is long from dash to bow, I don't think there will be enough counterbalance without something up front.  I will cross that bridge when we get there, might be minimal weight at that point.
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« Reply #1744 on: February 17, 2015, 03:49:28 PM »
I think it will need something under the bow along with the stringer support.  This thing is long from dash to bow, I don't think there will be enough counterbalance without something up front.  I will cross that bridge when we get there, might be minimal weight at that point.

Thanks, keep us posted
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

loweryjennifer

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« Reply #1745 on: February 17, 2015, 08:12:47 PM »
Got the boat flipped and starting to scrape the paint off the top. 👏👏👏👏


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74 SleekCraft

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« Reply #1746 on: February 17, 2015, 09:01:39 PM »

Pics


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thats my old tahiti. I built those seat bases and fiberglassed them down.


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Mrblueeyesnick

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« Reply #1747 on: February 18, 2015, 01:20:01 PM »
Went down to aero marine and got my resin and fiberglass for my stringers. Anyone in the Hemet/San Jacinto area that has done stringers before, if there is any way that you could come by and help me that would be great. I'm new at doing this kind of stuff and could really use the help. Thanks


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HaulsBalls

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« Reply #1748 on: February 18, 2015, 01:47:30 PM »
Went down to aero marine and got my resin and fiberglass for my stringers. Anyone in the Hemet/San Jacinto area that has done stringers before, if there is any way that you could come by and help me that would be great. I'm new at doing this kind of stuff and could really use the help. Thanks


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I can't say I have done stringers yet but make sure you measure everything to keep it square and centered.  Building a jig from the original dimensions could help locate the new stringers in the hull as well.  Also, looks like you're using epoxy and not a laminating resin.  You should make sure to sand those stringers real good before each layer of epoxy you build up and do not lay too many glass layers in one pour as they may not wet out properly.  Epoxy is good stuff and this repair is going to be very strong if done right. Take your time and you will be fine.
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JARVIS

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« Reply #1749 on: February 18, 2015, 03:34:10 PM »
It's a non blushing epoxy. If your still concerned.... wipe it down with soapy water.  The best stuff to remove the amine blush. after that....you can give a quick sand to give next layup a little tooth to hold on to. After the sanding, wipe with acetone. Should be ready for next layup.  Epoxy tends to run and you'll get that on vertical surface...like stringer.  You can thicken resin cabosil, etc. To give it a little thickness and minimize how much runs down. Just a little....kinda like syrup....honey consistency maybe to think. It's won't add much strength.... just to help control the resin from running to lowest point leaving the glass with too little resin.  Aside from that....make sure stringers fit as flush as possible ... use braces to keep them square... add some weight to the tops to keep them against Hull.
Also, radius the top corners of the wood....glass doesn't like 90 degree bends. And for bottom where it meets Hull....you'll need a filer of some sort(not bondo) to create a radius from stringer to Hull. Plastic spoon is good enough of a radius.. you can use it as a tool.
As for epoxy itself....I'd mix it in a cup....(must be exact....VERY little wiggle room) then poor in a flat tray....little a paint tray. Epoxy gets hot...and in a cup the volume generates heat quick and you loose your pot. In the tray heat dissipates and pot lasts longer.  Have a plan of attack as epoxy may  too fast to do one whole side. It's possible. You gotta super quick and have a helper.
Keep us updated.  ,
  • Boat #1: '81 tahiti mini day cruiser
-JARVIS-


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