SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => Boat Showcase => Topic started by: Bunger on July 19, 2013, 12:43:25 AM
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Bought my first jet boat finally. Picked up from a guy at work. My buddys dad and grandpa were the original owners and built the motor so the boats stayed in the same neighborhood for 40 years.
Anyways its a 74 jetster i believe 19ft.
Motors built up with forged crank and pistons head work and porting 12:1 compression. Tunnel ram with two 450's. bassett ot headers. Thing should rip. old owner said he hit 72. Berkeley pump balanced and blueprinted hydraulic place diverter. Bought it with the motor pulled and its gunna need some lovin to get everything lookin new and workin good.
Here she is
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Cant get the rest of the pics to load ill try later
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This should work
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cool ride..... welcome!!!
if you have never driven a jet, find someone who has , they handle much differently than a prop boat. enjoy....
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Ive drivin a bunch just havent got around to buyin my own.
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Welcome to the site, nice ride :thumbup: :thumbup:
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Welcome, love to see another Hallett on here. Good looking boat but the first thing I would do is change out those fiberglass tanks before they ruin that fancy engine. I think most of us with Halletts have had to do it by now so don't wait till its too late. If you have any questions about that thing there are plenty of guys here that can help.
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Ive drivin a bunch just havent got around to buyin my own.
then u r ready 2 ROCK!!!!!
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Yes I've already heard about the tanks I've already been calling around the local boat shops seen what they all have layin around. What are most people doing to mount the new aluminum tanks in the boat?
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Great to see another Hallett on the site. And I agree with hauls balls about the tanks. I had to replace mine a few years back with alum ones. Anyways. Cool boat and keep us updated.
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They are only the best boats ever made.
Ever.
In the entire history of boat building.
Ever.
-beerjet-
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They are only the best boats ever made.
Ever.
In the entire history of boat building.
Ever.
-beerjet-
Omar musta got off early and is already at Hooters.......
Ray
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Nice ride for sure.
You can get tanks from IMCO here in San Dimas.
They can make you some or they mite have what ya need in stock.
http://www.imcomarine.com/ (http://www.imcomarine.com/)
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Yes I've already heard about the tanks I've already been calling around the local boat shops seen what they all have layin around. What are most people doing to mount the new aluminum tanks in the boat?
I had tabs welded on mine similar to how the fiberglass ones were glassed to the hull. I then glassed those tabs to the hull, easy as that! Like I said before, there are plenty of guys on here that all have skills and/or tools that they are willing to offer if you need help or have questions.
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I had tabs welded on mine similar to how the fiberglass ones were glassed to the hull. I then glassed those tabs to the hull, easy as that! Like I said before, there are plenty of guys on here that all have skills and/or tools that they are willing to offer if you need help or have questions.
Oh that sounds simple enough. Ive done my fair share of fiberglass work doin the jetski thing for the past few years shouldnt be a problem. Just need to find some tanks now!
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Yes I've already heard about the tanks I've already been calling around the local boat shops seen what they all have layin around. What are most people doing to mount the new aluminum tanks in the boat?
http://www.socaljetboats.com/hulls/saddle-tank-mounting/msg156748/#msg156748 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/hulls/saddle-tank-mounting/msg156748/#msg156748)
I posted an article about a cool way to mount tanks.
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Nice! Welcome.
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Wow thats bitchin. I like the idea of being able to take them out
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Hey guys have a question. The timing cover on the 455 it came with was fully i stalld bolts were just finger tight no gaskets so since i have a full gasket kit i put it on the other day. It was a PAIN IN THE ASS! The rubber strip on the bottom made it tought. Ended up trimming the wings off the ends and dropping the oil pan like an 1/8 inch and pounded it in with a mallet. I was worried the rubber strip and that whole area leaking so i splooged some rtv in there. Is this how it always goes or is there a different way thats all suppose to go togethor? Any help would be rad. Thanks!
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There's a different way, it should go together with anything other than a 455!
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There's a different way, it should go together with anything other than a 455!
X2
I got a bbc 396 hanging out in my garage with your name on it.
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Hey guys have a question. The timing cover on the 455 it came with was fully i stalld bolts were just finger tight no gaskets so since i have a full gasket kit i put it on the other day. It was a PAIN IN THE ASS! The rubber strip on the bottom made it tought. Ended up trimming the wings off the ends and dropping the oil pan like an 1/8 inch and pounded it in with a mallet. I was worried the rubber strip and that whole area leaking so i splooged some rtv in there. Is this how it always goes or is there a different way thats all suppose to go togethor? Any help would be rad. Thanks!
The way I did mine was i put the timing cover on before the oil pan. The oil pan is the last thing to go on with the bottom end. The oil pan should fit pretty snug on the end seals tightening it evenly. I'm not understanding why you had to pound it in or why you are trimming things. Can you explain more?
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The way I did mine was i put the timing cover on before the oil pan. The oil pan is the last thing to go on with the bottom end. The oil pan should fit pretty snug on the end seals tightening it evenly. I'm not understanding why you had to pound it in or why you are trimming things. Can you explain more?
Okay we'll the timing cover has the rubber strip on the bottom where it meets the oil pan and that keeps it from sliding in. It makes since that the oil pan would have to got on first. When I get it off the dolly and on the engine hoist ill prolly redo it all. Just worried that is gunna leak somewhere in that are when I put it togethor.
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Dropped the motor in today and started sorting out some wiring and stuff. Found some cooling lines that need to be replaced. Also need a couple new an fittings. Where the cheapest place in so cal to get fittings and such?
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Also does anyone know where I can find an alternator bracket for this 455? Searched google and there's a trillion different ones.
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What oil should I put in this thing? Has a 12 quart pan
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Also is there a good way to get calcium build up out of water lines? I have all these bitchin steel braided lines and the smaller -8 lines are pretty clogged up and at 10$ a ft id like to reuse them
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Also is there a good way to get calcium build up out of water lines? I have all these bitchin steel braided lines and the smaller -8 lines are pretty clogged up and at 10$ a ft id like to reuse them
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Can't help you on a stock alternator bracket but I ended up making my own mount and adjuster. As for oil, I run VR1 in mine for the extra additives that flat tappets require(20-50w I believe). Try some CLR and water in a bucket with the lines submersed for a few hours, that might help loosen things up so you can run a pipe cleaner or brush through them. Haven't tried it myself so be careful of any anodizing or coatings that could be affected.
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I finally found a bracket that'll work for me on cp performance. And I'll try the clr! Thanks man
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Anplumbing.com for your fittings
Sent from my SGH-T999 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app
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As far as batterys go whats the minumum cca i need for this boat. The tray is setup for a series 27 battery. No radio or anything.
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I always run a 850 cca battery just because I'd rather have to much opposed to not enough. The starter will only pull as much as it needs so you won't over load it going bigger. My float always fires right up with no struggle on the starter, but I also don't have any electronics on the boat other than what the engine needs. One day ill add a radio.......maybe, just another thing to break on the boat I'd rather not worry about
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What do you guys use for a 3 way valve for fuel tanks?
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I don't use a valve for my tanks, I draw from both at all times. Both tanks feed a water/fuel separator and then runs to my fuel pump. Thought about running a valve but haven't found a need to really have one.
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I think my boats drawing more fuel from one then the other. Id rather run one tank up river then one back down
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I think my boats drawing more fuel from one then the other. Id rather run one tank up river then one back down
you should ALWAYS have a valve on each tank. if you're not running a valve you are flirting with disaster if you ever have a fuel leak. you'll have no way to shut off the fuel.
im a big fan of keep it simple. 90* ball valves on the tanks, to a fuel/water separator. you'll run both tanks into it, and use one output. run that to the fuel pump, after the fuel pump run a small micron inline fuel filter to catch the small bits, and then into the carb. try to keep bends to a minimum etc. every bend, every 90* fitting, etc can lower fuel pressure.
but safety first. you MUST have a valve on each tank to shut off the fuel.
if you want to run off one tank, just turn off the other side and it'll suck from the open tank. run both, open em both up. just realize that it'll suck from the easiest tank that it can pull from so it wont be 100% even.
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Takin her to Elsinore in the morning for a little shake down run. Pics to come tomorrow. *fingers crossed*
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Had a good day it ran bitchin. Need to mess with jetting stil cause its a little lean. Made a hard wide oped pass and killed the motor pulled a few plugs and they were white like straigjt out of the box. Went easy on her the rest of the day.
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Right on! Good look'n boat, let me know when you plan another trip out and I'll try to join you.
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Ya definately! Tryin to make it to parker this weekend if i can lock down insurance on it
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Also is there a good way to get calcium build up out of water lines? I have all these bitchin steel braided lines and the smaller -8 lines are pretty clogged up and at 10$ a ft id like to reuse them
Suggestion: Try soaking them in vinegar for a couple of days.
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Ya definately! Tryin to make it to parker this weekend if i can lock down insurance on it
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Ya definately! Tryin to make it to parker this weekend if i can lock down insurance on it
You can give Stacey Johnson a call at Wozencraft Insurance, she had the best rates for me and we pretty much have similar setups. Good luck
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Welp got water in the oil. Took a valve cover off and have milkshake all over the rockers and wat not. Is it pretty easy to suck water in through the headers when running water through them while idling? I also have to install the timing cover/ waterpump plate myself. Is it possible to get water in the oil through there? On sunday we acidently had the header valve open when we started it to check the timing and it seemed to kinda have a hard time cranking and ran boggy for a few seconds kinda how a jetski runs when it sucks water in. Now i dont have a valve on the water inlet from the pump. My buddys dad said they never ran one during the 20 years they had the boat and never had a problem.
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Welp got water in the oil. Took a valve cover off and have milkshake all over the rockers and wat not. Is it pretty easy to suck water in through the headers when running water through them while idling? I also have to install the timing cover/ waterpump plate myself. Is it possible to get water in the oil through there? On sunday we acidently had the header valve open when we started it to check the timing and it seemed to kinda have a hard time cranking and ran boggy for a few seconds kinda how a jetski runs when it sucks water in. Now i dont have a valve on the water inlet from the pump. My buddys dad said they never ran one during the 20 years they had the boat and never had a problem.
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Header water can be a pain if modified from it's original design. Most guys run the Bassett check valve to keep the water from entering until on the gas, I think 1500 rpm or so. If you are running a separate valve you might find a lot of baby sitting of the temp gauge and valve. Do you have a large cam or fairly stock? Heavy cams will tend to draw water back into the cylinder with water cooled headers, most guys will just run their headers dry to eliminate this problem. Not an expert on this or the 455 but timing/water pump cover could also be an issue in itself, may want to double check that area just for piece of mind. Hopefully you can flush all the water out of it and find the issue without costing you much $$$. Good luck
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Were pretty sure it sucked water in. It has a big cam in it which is making us think that. And i have the basset t valve but the ball and spring isnt innit ill def be putting that back in. Gunna change the oil and hope for the best! Starting to figure out the b.o.a.t. Acronym real fast haha
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I've taken water on thru my headers not once, but twice. Changed the oil and filter, cleaned all the milk out and it ran good. Trying to figure out the water goin thru the lines is a trial and error type deal. I've read on here a lot of guys run a valve (from h.d.) up by the driver seat to control the water, including myself. Only opened just a bit. I close it off at idle just to be safe.
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I've got the bitchin Rex marine valve up front but I think I'll run the t valve and the gate valve up front an make it idiot proof
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Welp got water in the oil. Took a valve cover off and have milkshake all over the rockers and wat not. Is it pretty easy to suck water in through the headers when running water through them while idling? I also have to install the timing cover/ waterpump plate myself. Is it possible to get water in the oil through there? On sunday we acidently had the header valve open when we started it to check the timing and it seemed to kinda have a hard time cranking and ran boggy for a few seconds kinda how a jetski runs when it sucks water in. Now i dont have a valve on the water inlet from the pump. My buddys dad said they never ran one during the 20 years they had the boat and never had a problem.
You should have a valve on the pipe from the jet. If one of your water lines were to break, and your in the middle of the lake, you would have no way of stopping the water from coming in the boat. It's not likely, but possible. I've had to replace some of my water AN fittings because they were so corroded or worn from rubbing the floor of the bilge.
Does that REX valve up front control water to the headers or water to cool the motor?
As for the water in the oil, when I have my inlet valve (ball valve on the pump inlet) open all the way I get a milk shake. I closed my valve a little and haven't had water in the oil since. This isn't the best way to control it. I need to balance the outlet or go with a pressure relief setup. Do a search about controlling temperature, it has been discussed ALOT.
Definetly put the ball and spring back in the tee valve for the headers. You should have either a fine mist or no water at all at idle. If you see water running out of the headers at idle, it's too much. I think REX has restrictors you can put in the water injection lines to get less water to the headers.
BOAT means "get a second job sucker!" :o Good luck.
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The rex valve controls water to the headers. And yea ill put the ball and spring back in that should def help. And eventually ill
Put the valve off the pump but i dont understand how that lowers pressure? Seems like it would
Only lower the volume of
Water flowing through the motor? Correct me if im wrong.
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The valve off the pump will not lower the pressure but it will lower the volume and in turn change engine temp up or down. The pressure will change depending on how water exits the engine(hose size, fitting size, amount of water dumps). I just increased the size of cooling lines on my engine last season due to a bit high water pressure on my block, now it never gets too high that it causes concern.
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What about alternators? I spun the + post on mine and broke a little diode thing on the back side of that plate. Its a motorola 35a 3 wire. Do they still make those? What can a replace it with? Should i get
It rebuilt?
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What about alternators? I spun the + post on mine and broke a little diode thing on the back side of that plate. Its a motorola 35a 3 wire. Do they still make those? What can a replace it with? Should i get
It rebuilt?
You can get one of those from just about any auto parts store, just take that one with you to match it up. Is it a marine alternator? I have a 3-wire in mine but it's wired to work like a 1-wire and I think it was about $40. Since you are running and open engine most auto parts will work but keep in mind that a sealed compartment will require marine grade components.
Here's the mock up of mine.
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The one i have is a marine but my motor isnt covered. So i can run just about any alternator i want? Amperage doesnt matter? I plan on pitting a stereo in it over winter. What does a 3 wire do that a 1 wire doesnt?
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I used to have a one wire on mine, after start I'd have to run the throttle up to 2000rpm or so to excite it which was kind of annoying. It also didn't work very well and I ended up with low voltage at the battery quite often. I switched it out for a three wire gm alt off a late 70's model truck. Cost me $15 at the junk yard rather than $100 for the 1 wire. The 3 wire allows you set up a low voltage light if you want as well and it automatically excites itself when you turn the key to on. Wiring it in is really easy as well.
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Does anyone know what car i can tell the autozone dorks to look up to get something that will work for me? If i use a 1 wire i just get rid of the wire going from the yellow exciter wire back to my purple ignition wire at my ballast resistor
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77 Chevy c10, 350 will get you a three wire.
My one wire was just wired right to the battery through a circuit breaker.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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So a 3 wire is what I have correct? One 10gauge wire from post to starter then one wire coming out of the alternator going to the purple ignition wiring?
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It sounds like it.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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I just talked to a guy at gsmarine and he said that people have back feed problems using automotive alternators on boats and it lets the motor keep running after you shut the key off?
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I heard that too. I soldered in a diode on mine and it seems to work fine. I've never had my batteries die either however I do disconnect mine when I store the boat. I drew up a quick diagram of how mine is set up. Got the diode at radio shack for like a buck. Part number 276-1661.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Hmm startin to think im better off spending 140$ on a marine specific one.
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In your diagram isnt the #2 wire just for the charging dummy light and doesnt need to be connected?
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In your diagram isnt the #2 wire just for the charging dummy light and doesnt need to be connected?
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It's the voltage sensing wire. Lots of people just jump it to the back of the alternator. That however creates the problem I was talking about earlier with the voltage drop.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Ok well i guess ill try the chevy c10 alternator. Sorry aboit all the questions but i cant even get a straight answer from the boat shops about which one to run so im baffled haha
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Haha no problem, if you want I can send you some pictures of my set up later.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Ok well i guess ill try the chevy c10 alternator. Sorry aboit all the questions but i cant even get a straight answer from the boat shops about which one to run so im baffled haha
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Shit idk why my phone keeps posting everything twice
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Ok got myself the c10 alternated just not and now I'm baffled as to how to wire it up.
Here's the old one then the new one
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It looks like the old one is set up close to the same way. Post on the back goes to the battery. Find out which wire is the switched 12v on the old set up.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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The yellow wire is connected to my purple ign wire at the ballast resistor
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The yellow wire is connected to my purple ign wire at the ballast resistor
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Alright I think I've got it dialed. Pin F1 is the exciter wire took that to purple ignition wire on terminal block and R2 is the battery voltage sensor and took that back to red hot wire on terminal block. I guess the idea with that wire is to get it as close to the battery as possible to pick up the voltage drop. Still trying to figure out if I need that diode or if there's one possibly built into the alternator. Don't understand how the alternator would keep the motor running once the ignition is off.
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Looks like you got it all rigged up right. Pretty clean job on the wires too. You should need a diode, you'll find out as soon as you try and turn it off.
What happens is the alternator will back feed through the exciter wire and keep providing current to the rest of the system.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Ok ill find oit today when i fire it up. Does the diode need to be soldered for resistance reasons or can i use a butt connector?
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I always solder all my connections but a butt connector should work fine.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Ok does the diode need to be soldered or can i use a butt connector? And how come the alternators dont come with a diode built in and how come trucks dont have this problem?
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Dammit my phone a piece of shit i thot the first post disnt go through
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Aight it works bitchin! Fired it up and it kept runnin after i turned the key off like you said. Went and got that diode you said to get wired it up and it works perfect! Thanks again for answerin all my stupid questions. I owe you some beers if i ever run into you on the water!
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Sweet!! Glad I could help, hit me up if you have any more questions.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Alright so the first trip out it ran lean cause the carbs were brand new out of the box. Went from a stock 58 main jets and put 70s in. Also put in 4.5 power valves compared to the stock 8.5s. Today it idled better but when I'd really put my foot in it it would start missing and sputtering. Seemed to run fine in the mod range. Didn't have this problem the first trip out. Could my fiberglass tanks be clogging my fuel lines? I tore apart one of the inline filters and didnt really see anything in it. Fuel,pressure was at 3psi when I was hammered down but I don't trust that guage it'll show 2-3 psi sitting in my driveway sometimes
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Could the new alternator be cause this? To much or too little voltage?
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Could the new alternator be cause this? To much or too little voltage?
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That seems a little low on the fuel pressure. That could give you problems at full throttle
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Im thinking thats gotta be my
Problem. I dont trust the guage at all i need to get a new one. It ran like it was starving for fuel and with new jets 12 sizes bigger i dont think it was the carbs statving it. Hopfully the pick ups in the tanks were clogged and the new tanks im putting in fix it
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Also noticed my headers are leaking between the flanges and manifold. 3 out of 4 ports on both sides i can feel air blowing through
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There new gaskets too. Is that somewhat normal for bassets? Doesnt seem right. Could that be cause the high rpm missing and sputtering?
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There new gaskets too. Is that somewhat normal for bassets? Doesnt seem right. Could that be cause the high rpm missing and sputtering?
That's probably not likely to cause a misfire or sputtering. I had the same issue with my exhaust leaking and it's a common occurance for some reason. I ended up replacing the gaskets with a bead of silicone on both sides to take up any of the gaps. You can take them off and try a straight edge on the flange to see if they are warpped or try to find thicker gaskets.
I think you should look over your fuel system first. What size line do you have from the tank? What type of fuel pump and GPH? Fuel pressure(replace the gauge)? How good are the carbs working for this setup(are they close to being tuned)? Since you have the potential to plug them with tank debris from the fiberglass tanks you could spend a lot of time and money chasing this issue, I've been there along with a few other guys around. I had 3 fuel filters at one point and still managed to get fibers in the float bowls along with a varnished intake manifold. Get an accurate fuel pressure reading and make sure your pump can supply the volume needed for both carbs, then maybe grab a few jets and head to the lake.
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Got -8 all the way to the bulkhead then -6 to each carb. Mallory 140 series pump and mallory regulater. The fuel system supported the 660 center squirts that were on it originally. So i think it should all be alrigjt and i went through thenpump and regulator yesterday and everythig looked good internally. As far as pressure the old guage at the lake sundayand one point showed as high as 7 then as low as 2or 3 but that guage would also say 2-3 just sitting in my driveway under the cover i think heat was building up pressure or something.. Yesterday i bought a new marshall and before installing it the old guage said 3psi when i turned the pump on. Pit new guage on and nothing registered. Tried again and got 2psi then adjusted the regulator and got rhe new guage up to 7.5. Then for shits and giggles i put the old guage on and it showed 12! Idk what to think im baffled.
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Im gunna try to swap the tanks this weekend and clean everything out new filters then see how the fuel pressure is. Then hopfully take
It to a carb shop and have them at least get me close.
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Got -8 all the way to the bulkhead then -6 to each carb. Mallory 140 series pump and mallory regulater. The fuel system supported the 660 center squirts that were on it originally. So i think it should all be alrigjt and i went through thenpump and regulator yesterday and everythig looked good internally. As far as pressure the old guage at the lake sundayand one point showed as high as 7 then as low as 2or 3 but that guage would also say 2-3 just sitting in my driveway under the cover i think heat was building up pressure or something.. Yesterday i bought a new marshall and before installing it the old guage said 3psi when i turned the pump on. Pit new guage on and nothing registered. Tried again and got 2psi then adjusted the regulator and got rhe new guage up to 7.5. Then for shits and giggles i put the old guage on and it showed 12! Idk what to think im baffled.
Sounds like you have a good setup for the fuel system but that pressure is a bit odd. It's in the ball park though so maybe having the carbs gone through and tuned will help. I tend to see a consistant 6-7psi when idling and not much change while running it up in the RPM.
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Ya im thinking andhopig that with the big change in pressure that it was the tank pock ups getting clogged
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Got itchy today ;D
Also took haulsballs' idea and glassed in a "dam" to keep bilge water from comin up the v into the carpet. Got one tank out and gunna get the other one tommorow. Picking up used 11gal tanks Thursday having my buddy weld tabs and relocate filler neck Friday and hopefully install the tanks Saturday and get on the lake Sunday. A lot of maybes though.
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welcome to the addiction u will soon need an intervention like the rest of us! sweet boat removin those glass tanks was def a move in the right direction great job not bein scared to tear your new boat up! if your engines needs 5-6 psi at idle it def needs that at wot your psi shouldnt fluctuate when u stabb it hard it should really only barley lower your gauge mostly only gauge movement from boat bouncin in the water u said 12 jets bigger in the carbs? that seems a lil much if it was runnin good just lil lean I wouldve started bout 2 size increments and where did u get your pv change info from did u measure your vacum at WOT and idle whatnot to justify PV change? there sum super sharp carb guys on here that could help u with a base tune and u could save money on a carb shop that might not kno how to wrk on old carb anyways get help with a base tune u will need a cheap vacum gauge talk to couple guys u can def get close than just look for that pretty brown on yhe plug great lookin boat! ill trade u sum pocket lint and a bag of skittles for it in yhe non runnin condition that old thing in! lol get your new tanks in all bugs worked out then make sure and BLOW that olds up real good before winter so nxt year u can..........put the correct engine in the boat!C:-)
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Very clean you will enjoy it love my jet
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If u know how to run and take care of that olds it will treat u write. I have read post on here where some guys talk shit about olds motors but I'm still running mine just fine while they are always breaking their 454 or 460 and sitting at home while I'm on the water every weekend so run it good and take care of it and it will do u fine.
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welcome to the addiction u will soon need an intervention like the rest of us! sweet boat removin those glass tanks was def a move in the right direction great job not bein scared to tear your new boat up! if your engines needs 5-6 psi at idle it def needs that at wot your psi shouldnt fluctuate when u stabb it hard it should really only barley lower your gauge mostly only gauge movement from boat bouncin in the water u said 12 jets bigger in the carbs? that seems a lil much if it was runnin good just lil lean I wouldve started bout 2 size increments and where did u get your pv change info from did u measure your vacum at WOT and idle whatnot to justify PV change? there sum super sharp carb guys on here that could help u with a base tune and u could save money on a carb shop that might not kno how to wrk on old carb anyways get help with a base tune u will need a cheap vacum gauge talk to couple guys u can def get close than just look for that pretty brown on yhe plug great lookin boat! ill trade u sum pocket lint and a bag of skittles for it in yhe non runnin condition that old thing in! lol get your new tanks in all bugs worked out then make sure and BLOW that olds up real good before winter so nxt year u can..........put the correct engine in the boat!C:-)
Sent from my GT-P3113 using SoCalJetBoats mobile app
The guys who built the motor and oroginal boat owner lives 5 house down when i first fired up the motor he was helping me adjust the idle ect. Said it was way to rich to get a low smooth idle and said the p valve were too big. I got a vaccum guage at aitozone and was gettin 10-11 at idle so i went with a 4.5
As far as the jets the 660 center squirts that were onnit had 76s and apparently it ran bitchin with those. so i just figured 70s would be a good place to start on the 450s then again i dont know shit about these big ol carbs. Especially two of them haha
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You waste no time! Glad to see your enthusiasm to get this stuff done, hope you don't get burnt out on it cause you have a solid boat. These few modifications are going to pay off in the long run, then all you need is to tune that engine. How did that multi-tool work on the tank removal? Seems to have left not much of a mess. What's the plan for the tank install, will you have it tabbed or just glass them in around the edges?
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You waste no time! Glad to see your enthusiasm to get this stuff done, hope you don't get burnt out on it cause you have a solid boat. These few modifications are going to pay off in the long run, then all you need is to tune that engine. How did that multi-tool work on the tank removal? Seems to have left not much of a mess. What's the plan for the tank install, will you have it tabbed or just glass them in around the edges?
Haha ya man im still on the high from buyin in so im trying to keep my momemtun going. Ya dude the multitool worked perfect. Wanted somethin with the least chance of sparking. And ya not much of a mess. And im just gunna glass over tabs like you did. Keep it simple
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You waste no time! Glad to see your enthusiasm to get this stuff done, hope you don't get burnt out on it cause you have a solid boat. These few modifications are going to pay off in the long run, then all you need is to tune that engine. How did that multi-tool work on the tank removal? Seems to have left not much of a mess. What's the plan for the tank install, will you have it tabbed or just glass them in around the edges?
Haha ya man im still on the high from buyin in so im trying to keep my momemtun going. Ya dude the multitool worked perfect. Wanted somethin with the least chance of sparking. And ya not much of a mess. And im just gunna glass over tabs like you did. Keep it simple
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Tanks r out! Cant make it out for labor day so im not rushin to get it done anymore. But pickin up the new tanks tommorow. According to measurments they should fit like gloves. Once those are in its goin to mr shoemaker to get the carbs dialed. Also talkin to jeff conrad yesterday and he was saying the mallory 140series pumps like i have are shit. Apparently they speedd up as voltage increase and slow down when voltage decrease from tthe alternator. He said holley blue is the way to go? Maybe that was my problem? The new alternator and fuel pump dont like eachother?
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Planning on glassing the tanks in using tabs like the pics shows. Also a tab on either side vertically. Anyone see a problem with that? My cousin thinks flex is gunna cause shit to crack but ive seen a few boats done like this. I dont see a problem.
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Pics
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That's pretty much the concept I used on mine. I had 2"x2" angle aluminum the was cut into about 6" lengths, then had them welded in the same locations as you show in your pics. My whole idea was to secure the tanks in the same location as the original. Another way would be to use pieces of wood to create bulkheads to sandwich the tanks in front and back, then tab then into the floor with glass. I don't think you will have any issues doing it the same as mine, these hulls don't flex and twist like some of the lighter ones.
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Ya im goin for it. Droppin em off at my welding buddies shop today. Whats a good way to clean these out and then make sure i get everything out of them?
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Ya im goin for it. Droppin em off at my welding buddies shop today. Whats a good way to clean these out and then make sure i get everything out of them?
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Ya im goin for it. Droppin em off at my welding buddies shop today. Whats a good way to clean these out and then make sure i get everything out of them?
I have a large supply of stainless hardware that I dumped in my tanks along with some simple green and water. I drove to work with them in the bed of my truck for a couple of weeks, changing the water every couple of days and rinsing them out. I drive Santiago Canyon everyday so it gets to sloshing real quick!
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I have a large supply of stainless hardware that I dumped in my tanks along with some simple green and water. I drove to work with them in the bed of my truck for a couple of weeks, changing the water every couple of days and rinsing them out. I drive Santiago Canyon everyday so it gets to sloshing real quick!
Good idea. I can get all the stainless hardware I want from work ill give it a try. I also heard diesel fuel works too?
Also when u were fleshing up tho tanks did you change out the fuel pick ups at all? The ones on these were a joke and only 5/16. I'd like to swap out to 3/8. Can I just use regular fuel line? Just worried about it breaking down constantly soaking in gas.
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Good idea. I can get all the stainless hardware I want from work ill give it a try. I also heard diesel fuel works too?
Also when u were fleshing up tho tanks did you change out the fuel pick ups at all? The ones on these were a joke and only 5/16. I'd like to swap out to 3/8. Can I just use regular fuel line? Just worried about it breaking down constantly soaking in gas.
if you need any other stainless stuff let me know brother I can get it also
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Good idea. I can get all the stainless hardware I want from work ill give it a try. I also heard diesel fuel works too?
Also when u were fleshing up tho tanks did you change out the fuel pick ups at all? The ones on these were a joke and only 5/16. I'd like to swap out to 3/8. Can I just use regular fuel line? Just worried about it breaking down constantly soaking in gas.
For the fuel pickup you will need to have a new tube welded into the tanks. For marine fuel tanks the pickup is drawn up a tube and out through the top of the tank for safety purposes. You will need to have the tubes removed and larger one welded in if you think fuel volume will be an issue. I'm not sure what size mine were but they are probably similar to what you have. As for fuel lines coming from the tanks, I have all -6AN hardware(3/8") and hose all the way to the carb. You can even go to -8 to the pump and -6 to the carb depending on the pump you are running and fuel volume needed for that setup, I'm sure someone on here can chime in with their setup as well. -6AN at a minimum though.
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Basiclly need something like this. Anyone have any ideas?
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Called
Imco they were no help at at all. Tim at TMR didnt know what to tell me. Im baffled.
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you are not going to be able to find this part on a shelf. jet boat pickup tubes are a custom piece.
my imco tanks have pickups similar to this and i have -8 hose all the way to the carb bowls for fuel delivery:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svyohelah.com%2FTheBoat%2FFuelTank%2Fpics%2Fnewtanksfuelpickup.jpg&hash=1cf43bd89417ab1d468f7319c768c4ca4804d8b1)
they need to be welded all the way around and the weld needs to be solid so it doesnt suck air bubbles thru a little pinhole.
u can use the plastic pickup tube but theres a potential for the screen to be clogged and also for air leaks if the tubing itself is cracked, or where its smushed onto that fitting, and then theres another possible leak at the female opening of that fitting itself too.
ie:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2Fjacksparrow1956%2F2011-06-28_114753_scan0005.jpg&hash=040d6f3e6d56b50cee1772c2550980ba3dcb9e89)
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you are not going to be able to find this part on a shelf. jet boat pickup tubes are a custom piece.
my imco tanks have pickups similar to this and i have -8 hose all the way to the carb bowls for fuel delivery:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.svyohelah.com%2FTheBoat%2FFuelTank%2Fpics%2Fnewtanksfuelpickup.jpg&hash=1cf43bd89417ab1d468f7319c768c4ca4804d8b1)
they need to be welded all the way around and the weld needs to be solid so it doesnt suck air bubbles thru a little pinhole.
u can use the plastic pickup tube but theres a potential for the screen to be clogged and also for air leaks if the tubing itself is cracked, or where its smushed onto that fitting, and then theres another possible leak at the female opening of that fitting itself too.
ie:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2Fjacksparrow1956%2F2011-06-28_114753_scan0005.jpg&hash=040d6f3e6d56b50cee1772c2550980ba3dcb9e89)
So ka0tyk has a good idea here. If you have not installed the tanks yet(fingers crossed) maybe you drill out the old pick up and weld in bungs to accept a pipe fitting with tube welded to it. You can even plug the original pickup location and have a bung welded in the same general area to install the same pipe fitting/pickup tube. This is something I look back and wish I had done on mine before I did the install.
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I made some pick ups like pictured above for a friends boat about 2 years back out of copper tubing and brass fittings and on another friends boat about 6 months ago. Both boats still running fine with no problems. Only cost about 20 bucks to make and all joints were soldered after being threaded.
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Well right now i can match the size of the stock pickups using a stainless nipple with a 1/2to3/8 reducer. The old tanks seemed to work for the last 39 years. But i also thought about drilling the bungs out and threading them to 5/8 and using 1/2" parts. Where would i find the aluminum tube thing your talking about? Im really baffles about what to do. Dont want to have to pull them out after i glass them in but also feel like going bigger than the stock pickups would just be overkill
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I actually had the same issue went to a local plumbing shop and he had all the fittings and the tubing and sweated them together for me cost $10 , I haven't had a issue yet
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So as far as materials use brass fittings and a copper pick up tube?
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So as far as materials use brass fittings and a copper pick up tube?
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That's what I had in my tanks , I broke the top elbow , it looks like I called the same companies you have with no luck order a couple of the plastic ones , nothing I was comfortable with , stopped by the plumbing shop and they hooked me up , I've had no problems since !!
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Welp right now im thinking about a stainless 1/2-3/8 reducing bushing and a cut to length stainless nipple for the dip tube then having my brass barbed 90° coming out the the top. That way i have 3/8 all the way through. All my fuel line is -8 or3/8 so i dont see the need to use a bigger diameter pickup than my fuel lines. Im going to mcfadden today to play around with brass versions then order the ss parts off mcmaster.
When you say plumbing shop you mean just a regular ol commercial/resi. Plumbing contractor or what?
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Yep , just a regular retail plumbing shop
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Thinking about this. Brass compression fitting and 3/8 aluminum tubing. It's super solid.
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I think you just simplified this beyond anyone so far. Well played
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I think you just simplified this beyond anyone so far. Well played
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Haha thanks man. I spent a hour at mcfaddendale looking through fittings going effin crazy. Finally saw these fittings and a roll of aluminum tubing and thought holy shit that's perfect. Trying to re engineer the wheel and shit never works haha
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I could spend an hour at McFaddendale's just making sure there's nothing I can't live without. I usually walk out of there with an empty wallet. Good job with the fittings, that should do the trick.
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What do you guys recommend for a filter setup? Was running just a napa inline throw away filter for each tank. Kinda wanna step that part of my game up.
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I use a screw on one like an oil filter. I have two, a fuel water separator/filter and then another one that's just a filter.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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Any particular brand to get? I think id be fine with just the seperator filter combo.
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Any particular brand to get? I think id be fine with just the seperator filter combo.
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I'm running a Mallory Marine filter setup. Both tanks run to the filter block and then send one feed to the fuel pump. It's a nice spin on filter and are available with or without a water separator. Just make sure you get 3/8 or larger for the fitting size.
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My old man picked these up today. Debating what i should run now
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I'm running that type. Cut to length. No issues
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Got the tanks glassed in and plumbed today. She's almost there. Also picked up one of those fuel filters hauls balls was talking about.
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Bitchin. Got the tanks glassed in all bitchin. Everything plumbed and put gas in em. Got home and the pass side tank is leaking at the base of one of the tabs. I just can't win lately haha. Didn't notice a leak when I had water in them cleaning them out. So it's back to the drawing boards. =
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Bitchin. Got the tanks glassed in all bitchin. Everything plumbed and put gas in em. Got home and the pass side tank is leaking at the base of one of the tabs. I just can't win lately haha. Didn't notice a leak when I had water in them cleaning them out. So it's back to the drawing boards. =
looks good man how hard was it all? I might be gettin a 18ft kachina that needs all the work done I've just gotta wait 2 weeks to see ifhe still wants to do it. If you don't mind me askin
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It's all super easy just time consuming. Make sure they don't leak before u put them in either haha
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It's all super easy just time consuming. Make sure they don't leak before u put them in either haha
hahahaha well at least you tested it out now and not with interior in and on the lake. That's sweet man I like your set up even when I met ya on the lake that day. Well I hope I get that thing I put a thread up asking about the hull I don't know much about the 18fters and really wanna learn thanks for the info brother appreciate it
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Ya man thats true i need to be more positive. But i just wanna drive the damn thing haha tired of working on it. Oh well shell be dialed soon enough. Sounds like as soon as i get the tanks dialed its gunna go to r&d marine by my house to have those guys dial in the carbs the closest they can get em. Id rathrr have them get it close than have me expirement with it on a motor that not so "forgoving" . Too many nice internal parts in it to risk blowing it up trying to jet it myself.
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Ya not only that but once she's good then you can relax and enjoy it the way you want to and plus you did pretty much everything yourself ya know👍👍 can't wait to see it after your all done with it
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Well looks like the the original 660 center squirter s are going back on it. Got quoted 400$ per carb to tune the 450cfms by the carb shop. Can rebuild the 660s that are already dialed for the boat for 50$.
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Had my buddys dad color sand buff and wax her. Ready for parker this weekend
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Got it to the river finnally. Ran absolutely bitchin. Got up to the sand bar across from foxes, cracked a brew then saw milky oil all over my stringer that came out the dip tube. Motors full of water. About an inch and a half about the fullmark on the dip stick. I just cant win with this thing =[ guessing either the water pump plate or blew put an intake gasket. So the motors gettin yanked. Also gunna do something to regulate pressure from the pump.
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=[
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I had the same issue on an old motor that was in my boat. Thought it was the head gasket, then too much water going into the headers getting pulled back in. Turned out one of the heads was cracked.
RoB~SoCalJetBoats~
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How does a head crack? Man i hope mines just a gasket. That sounds pricey haha
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How does your header spray look at idle and when running on plane? With those water cooler headers there is a common issue with water regulation and it seems most of the time too much water which gets pulled back into the engine. Also, too much cold incoming water touching hot engine parts can cause all kinds of problems so make sure your header water regulation looks good either before or after you look over the other gaskets. Don't get discouraged by this, you're gaining experiance and more reasons to play with your boat!
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I usually dont run water through the headers at idle just because of the big cam i have. But when im at cruising speed i usually turn the valve to the med or high position and will get quite abit of water coming out. I didnt think sucking water in above idle was an issue?
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Had my buddys dad color sand buff and wax her. Ready for parker this weekend
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Looks clean man! I want to do this to my boat
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I usually dont run water through the headers at idle just because of the big cam i have. But when im at cruising speed i usually turn the valve to the med or high position and will get quite abit of water coming out. I didnt think sucking water in above idle was an issue?
reversion will kill exhaust valves, etc... its not gonna suck it into the oil side of the motor.
im guessing too much pressure or you blew a gasket/seal somewhere. get the water out of it asap, dont let it sit with water. new intake gaskets (head gaskets are tough to blow on these things...) and put a pressure relief valve on the pump and go boating. :beer:
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Ya im gunna pull and swap gaskets. I have a full gasket kit so i might as well. As far as the pump inlet goes do i need a gate valve and a pressure relief? Any pics of the setup i need to run?
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Ya im gunna pull and swap gaskets. I have a full gasket kit so i might as well. As far as the pump inlet goes do i need a gate valve and a pressure relief? Any pics of the setup i need to run?
gate valve will limit flow which will regulate temperature. the pressure relief valve will vent out excess pressure to a dump line out the back of the boat. this topic has been beaten more than a dead horse and some people get by with just a gate valve, some people dont.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fblown_nordic09.JPG&hash=6ea6476090125611d64f2510b4ce9c805d16c1a6)
I like TJ's setup. Clean, strained, and he's got a smaller separate line for his headers and the block. If its good enough for his blown injected beast, it should be good enough for anyone else.
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Wow thats clean. Not really understanding the need for the seperaye line to the headers? Is that where excess is dumped instead of the back of the boat?
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Alright so should i run a pressure relief valve or a pressure regulator?
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Relief. Stay away from regulator
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Ok. Home depot brand is fine?
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Honestly your better off buying the kit offered from jbp, it's about a 100 bucks and comes with everything not to mention the valve is marked so adjustments are easier. By the time you piece it together you'll be about the same price
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All you need is a gate valve and a way to hook a hose up
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A gate valve wont regulate pressure only volume. Youd use a gate valve to adjust temp
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I have done it this way for ever no problems
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Ya but ive got a olds haha. Plus my pumps been worked on im sure theres a little more pressure than a stock one
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Pulled the motor yesterday. Pulled the pan off and Put the hose on the motor to try to find what gaskets leaking and couldnt find a drop. Left the block pressurized for about 4 hrs and still nothing. Figure my pump puts out more pressure that my house does?
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Could I have gotten this much water in through the headers? Been pretty careful with the header valve but have forgot to turn it off a few times....
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Nice 750 in the background. I had a 96 SXI with a lot of stuff done to various things. Riding a 701 sj now
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And a fresh pump puts out about 150psi per Jack McClure's advice. Your house is closer to 10psi
And a gate valve does reduce pressure. Pressure regulators constrict flow to reduce pressure.
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Thanks its my brothers. I had a superjet too but had to sell it to break out another thousand haha
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And a fresh pump puts out about 150psi per Jack McClure's advice. Your house is closer to 100psi. fixed.
And a gate valve does reduce pressure. Pressure regulators constrict flow to reduce pressure.
I miss my 750 but I love my square nose.
I sold my 750 when I bought my boat and quickly regretted it. I live almost on Lake Norman and I ride the ski way more than I drive the boat.
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Little update. Yanked motor changed intake and timing/water pump cover gaskets. Used the bitchin felpro gaskets and a bunch of rtv. Picked up a pressure relief valve setup from bob at bjs marine. Tits lookin piece. A bit pricey though. Gunna wake up early tommorow and try to get some oil and a few other things and try to make it to elsinore for a little shake down. Anyone gunna be out there?
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Shitty pic but you get the idea
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And a fresh pump puts out about 150psi per Jack McClure's advice. Your house is closer to 10psi
And a gate valve does reduce pressure. Pressure regulators constrict flow to reduce pressure.
Just read this......
A jet pump will not generate over about 80psi unless you get into the 800HP range.
Typical city water pressure is between 40 and 65 pounds.
On the ranch I was living on we had 80 pounds of water pressure at the barn.
To add to that, if flow is reduced, the pressure will drop dramatically. That is how the pressure regulator works, it is just using the pressure as a control medium.
Not being a smart ass, just keeping the facts on the surface. ;)
GT
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Shitty pic but you get the idea
Constructive criticism.
You should not ever have just rigid fittings on the water line from the pump. Especially without some sort of brace. There can be a buttload of vibration in that area and if that nipple breaks off, the boat will surely sink like a stone. There realistically should be a shut off valve and some type of vibration eliminator from the pump to all that hardware. I use hydraulic hose.
Also, like you mentioned, that is not a pressure regulator, but a pressure relief valve. There is still the possibility of over pressurization with that set up. Hope all works out for you.
As an fyi, I think you have had a reversion issue. There should NEVER be steam coming from the headers at anything less than about 1500-1800 rpm.
If you get too much water to the headers, try increasing the dump line size.
GT
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A gate valve wont regulate pressure only volume. Youd use a gate valve to adjust temp
Hate to disagree with you here, but the regulation of flow is the same as pressure. The only other adjustment you can possibly make is to the dump line outlet size.
If you were to regulate the pressure, it is the same thing as regulating flow. Just a different controlling medium.
The nice thing about using a gate valve (sound of beating a dead horse in the background) is that the rate of flow is NOT linear like a pressure regulator. Also no moving parts... (more beating)...
GT
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Boat ran good. But anything over 30 mph and the water pressure would go above 15 even with the pressure relief valve back oit all the way. When id hammer down out of the hole it would max out the 30 psi guage. Would a gate valve help bring it down? Water temp neverrr goes above 110.
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Boat ran good. But anything over 30 mph and the water pressure would go above 15 even with the pressure relief valve back oit all the way. When id hammer down out of the hole it would max out the 30 psi guage. Would a gate valve help bring it down? Water temp neverrr goes above 110.
Not enough information to say exactly what you need....
What size is the outlet of the dump line?
You should always have a valve on the pump. Really no argument not to.
You are flirting with blowing a freeze plug (called Welch plugs).
This is why I do not agree with the pressure relief valves... IT IS NOT FOOL PROOF.
I would install a gate valve in front of the relief and run it with the valve about half open and see where you end up.
So to potentially help you out more.
How large is the dump overboard fitting inside diameter?
approximately how much HP we dealing with?
How are your headers controlled?
Are you running a thermostat?
GT
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-10 from pump to a t that splits into -8s going into water pump plate one -10 out of intake manifold to over board one -8from intake to header valve at drivers seat then obviously back to headers. No thermostat. I think theres just too much water for that relief valve to handle. So im guessing that gate valve will limit the water flow and let that valve work better and keep the engine temp up
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Also hp is approx 450-500 i belive
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Some pics from yesterday and a pic of relief valve setup
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Well first problem i see is like Glenn said no gate valve. The valve serves two purposes, to shut off water incase of blown hoses and to adjust water flow which will also adjust pressure. And second, swap the regulator from the top of the t to the front of it. That way pressure is pushing on the regulator and not flowing right by it.
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-10 from pump to a t that splits into -8s going into water pump plate one -10 out of intake manifold to over board one -8from intake to header valve at drivers seat then obviously back to headers. No thermostat. I think theres just too much water for that relief valve to handle. So im guessing that gate valve will limit the water flow and let that valve work better and keep the engine temp up
How large is the actual port in the dump line overboard fitting? The easiest way to measure it is with a drill index. It should be about 3/8" to 7/16". And since you are not using an automatic header valve, you should have a gate to regulate incoming flow. What valve do you have to control header water?
GT
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Its a rex marine valve for the headers. I also have the basset t but i use the rex valve just because inhabe a tall cam and dont waant to worry about reversion. And the dump fitting is a 1/2 npt to -10 adapter so im guessing 7/16
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Its a rex marine valve for the headers. I also have the basset t but i use the rex valve just because inhabe a tall cam and dont waant to worry about reversion. And the dump fitting is a 1/2 npt to -10 adapter so im guessing 7/16
You have two possible fixes.
The easiest is to install a gate valve.
The other is to install an aluminum plug in the pipe coming if the pump suction housing and drilling it out to 1/4". This will reduce the flow to very close to where you need to be, but be warned that it can plug fairly easily with debris and cause an overheat and you still can't shut off the water if a hose gets burnt/blown off.
The valve is more serviceable and adjustable, since you took the factory hose connector off the pump, there is too much water entering the engine. The original hose barb in the pump was 3/8"mpt x 5/8"hose and had a .230" hole in it, you now have a .375" hole and this is way to much water to try and deal with.
Go buy a Red and White threaded gate valve and be done with it. You will likely have to get a 1/2" valve and a couple of bushings, I use 3/4" valves.
Jmho
GT
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Def gunna go with the gate valve. Gunna pick one up on my way to the river this weekend and test it out and also move the relief valve like stated above.
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Gate valve worked pressure is about 10 while cruising and up to 15 at wot. Still milkshaked the oil tho. Only thing left is head gaskets right?
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Wait don't pull heads what kind of intake are u running.
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Tunnel ram dual carb
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Wait don't pull heads what kind of intake are u running.
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Tunnel ram dual carb
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Wait don't pull heads what kind of intake are u running.
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I just changed intake and timing cover gaskets. Used good felpro stuff
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What kind of motor.
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Pm sent
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Ok that's fine I'm a 455 owner too had the same problem call me tommrow. I think your gate valve is open to much.
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Ok that's fine I'm a 455 owner too had the same problem call me tommrow. I think your gate valve is open to much.
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Hmm really? Ive got the pressure down to about 12psi according to the guage i put on the intake
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That's wrong take the gauge off and put it inline with your gate valve I'm telling when u are done with dinner call me also pressure relief valve get rid of it u don't need it. Too many things to worry about.
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Thats good Pressure inside your motor (You don't want more) Is that WOT?
however with your Gate valve you still have too much water volume enterting your block if it is still mikshake inside your oil
A relief setup might be your next step if all else fails. It worked for me
This is a hot topic and probly the most asked question your gonna get alot of opinions.
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Thats good Pressure inside your motor (You don't want more) Is that WOT?
however with your Gate valve you still have too much water volume enterting your block if it is still mikshake inside your oil
A relief setup might be your next step if all else fails. It worked for me
This is a hot topic and probly the most asked question your gonna get alot of opinions.
I also got a relief valve after the gate valve
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Now I can't get the damn thing to start to flush it with clean oil! Tried a new distributor cap. It starting doing this at the river. After I'd get it fired up it wouldn't be a problem but starting it cold took forever. Now it won't start at all in my driveway. Any ideas?
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Is it loading up with gas when you turn it off My boat had something wrong with the carb and would leak gas into the motor when turned off .would be a complete pain to start after it sat for a bit
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Its possible these carbs are freshly rebuilt but are a little "weathered". Had a few external fuel leaks when i first put them on. What was leaking on yours?
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Its possible these carbs are freshly rebuilt but are a little "weathered". Had a few external fuel leaks when i first put them on. What was leaking on yours?
the floats were stuck because the pressure regulator was set to high
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And that was with a brand new carb ran good once running but you could see it leaking as soon as you turned it off
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Hmm thats possible ill check it out. I think fuel pres is about 6or7 sitting still
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Are we talking Holley carbs? If so it's typical for the oring on the needle n seat to dry up and cause the floats to dump fuel. Pretty quick fix.
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Are we talking Holley carbs? If so it's typical for the oring on the needle n seat to dry up and cause the floats to dump fuel. Pretty quick fix.
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Yes 660 center squirts. Brandnew needles and seats
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the floats were stuck because the pressure regulator was set to high
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x2 I don't have a bitchen set up like a lot of guys do but I had that issue with mine this year and it turned out to be too much fuel pressure and my fuel pump was bad once I did that I was good I'm no expert but here to share what I've had go wrong and thanks to the guys here great knowledge
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If this is a flooding issue u can tell really easy. Fuel pump on ( if electric) or cranking (if mechanical) look in the carbs- if the floats stuck or needle n seat oring not sealing you will see fuel dumping down the venturis or sometimes overflowing out the vents.
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If this is a flooding issue u can tell really easy. Fuel pump on ( if electric) or cranking (if mechanical) look in the carbs- if the floats stuck or needle n seat oring not sealing you will see fuel dumping down the venturis or sometimes overflowing out the vents.
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Okay ill check tommorow. Wheres the vents?
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Okay ill check tommorow. Wheres the vents?
pull off your flame arrester or air cleaner look down the carb it will be obvious
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pull off your flame arrester or air cleaner look down the carb it will be obvious
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for whatever reason the fuel pres was reading 8 this mornin and still not a drip out of anywhere in the carbs. Dry as a bone
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Could it be a bad coil or ballast resistor? Or the points in the distributor? Ignition switch. I feel like its a spark problem
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Could it be a bad coil or ballast resistor? Or the points in the distributor? Ignition switch. I feel like its a spark problem
pull a spark plug out put it back in your plug wire and ground it out get somebody to help you turn it over What do you have for a ignition
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Blaster 2 coil with the resistor and a Mallory marine dist. It's all old stuff was all on the motor while it sat for 5 years.
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Blaster 2 coil with the resistor and a Mallory marine dist. It's all old stuff was all on the motor while it sat for 5 years.
you running points or a points eliminator kit
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Points as far as I know
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Points as far as I know
will if it is points and you leave your ignition on with the motor off you can fry them and there for no spark an easy fix if you have points
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Thats very possible. How long doesnit have to be left on for to fry them?
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Thats very possible. How long doesnit have to be left on for to fry them?
doesn't take much time specially if they haven't been replaced in a while also take a look at your ignition key check the wires behind it sounds like a spark issue for sure but I could be a variety of things
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doesn't take much time specially if they haven't been replaced in a while also take a look at your ignition key check the wires behind it sounds like a spark issue for sure but I could be a variety of things
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Wouldnt it not crank if it was a key problem
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Wouldnt it not crank if it was a key problem
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It could just be bad connection on igniton side of the switch and ok on the crank side. With the key on- check for power at the coil, if none, work your way forward and check for power through the ignition switch. Process of elimination. If all checks ok and it turns out the points are smoked- throw those POS in the garbage and drop in a Pertronix electronic conversion kit. you can trash the ballast resistor as well, and you'll never have to worry about setting dwell or replacing points again! :thumbup:
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Just put the meter on it. Batt was at 11.92 + side of coil only showed 4.2 and where the purple ign on wire goes onto the ballast showed 9.2 volts. Somethin isnt right there
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Also just put a new coil on and got nothin
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Had 10.2 at the coil after charging the batt for a bit. Also noticed when i pulled the exciter off the alt it went up to 11.3. And the fuel pump seemed to speed up? Charging the battery cause it was almost dead gunna try again tommorow
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Also found a set of new points in the spare parts box and those didnt seem to do anything either. Been trying starting fluid ect
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Also found a set of new points in the spare parts box and those didnt seem to do anything either. Been trying starting fluid ect
(951)764-5019 call me it hard to explain certain things over the phone
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Heres my dizzy. I cant find a part number on it to order the the right pointless conversion kit. Can anyone shed some light. I belive its the mallory marine model but from there website theres a few different ones. I can take a better pic later if need be
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Well got it fired all day. Charged the battery since last night 10 seconds of cranking and some starter fluid. Ran bitchin. Ran it for about 10 minutes. Started up almost instantly when I hit the key after it was warm. Do these setup s just not get enough spark when the battery's low to start? Didnt really change anything from yesterday. Couldn't really figure out how to adjust the points. Do I gap them while it touch the high part of the rotor of the low part?
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I had a points dizzy for years and one day it just gave up.. called Mallory and sent it in and they gave me a unilite... Cost me about $150 it was a re-man but basically brand new.. couldn't tell the difference.. oh and unless its a closed engine compartment on a boat you do not need a marine dizzy.. just get a standard automotive one..
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I had a points dizzy for years and one day it just gave up.. called Mallory and sent it in and they gave me a unilite... Cost me about $150 it was a re-man but basically brand new.. couldn't tell the difference.. oh and unless its a closed engine compartment on a boat you do not need a marine dizzy.. just get a standard automotive one..
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Oh that's bitchin! I might just do that. The pertronix s conversion setup is like 150 I'd rather have them give me a reman one.
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Yea.. just go on prestoliteperformance.com and get the number.. I sent mine in to have it rebuilt and they recommended a unilite and I have had no problems..
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I had Brand new Imco Tanks made on my Hallett after havins serious fits with the old tanks
I have replaced All fuel lines (Larger) pick up tubes (Larger) everything tank to carb and when I first ran the boat still felt the affects of those old Fiberglass tanks and shit in my Holley.
Difficult battle
Make sure its a spark issue but I wouldnt be surprised if its still that good ole Fiber Flakes and shards of glass in there
my particular experience was my fuel pressure was 6 and I was trying to think of what could be wrong. What was wrong was I had a junk in the carb
However I did buy a standalone MSD
On my Tahiti I ran a Petronix for years was great for the money.
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I had Brand new Imco Tanks made on my Hallett after havins serious fits with the old tanks
I have replaced All fuel lines (Larger) pick up tubes (Larger) everything tank to carb and when I first ran the boat still felt the affects of those old Fiberglass tanks and shit in my Holley.
Difficult battle
Make sure its a spark issue but I wouldnt be surprised if its still that good ole Fiber Flakes and shards of glass in there
my particular experience was my fuel pressure was 6 and I was trying to think of what could be wrong. What was wrong was I had a junk in the carb
However I did buy a standalone MSD
On my Tahiti I ran a Petronix for years was great for the money.
Theres no possible way that could be it. New tanks, new fuel lines, new fuel filter setup, different carbs then inwas running with those tanks and a fresh rebuild on them. And the thing runs so damn good when it is running. Plus the fiberglass tanks i yanked out werent that bad.
Im starting to think the voltage was too low to get the thing to fire? The motor would crank but it wouldnt fire. Charged the battery all day and it fired right up.
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Anymore ideas on the milkshake before I yank these heads? It's gunna get real expensive once I pull them. Manga flux, getting them rednecked ect....
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Anymore ideas on the milkshake before I yank these heads? It's gunna get real expensive once I pull them. Manga flux, getting them rednecked ect....
when I first put my motor together fresh from the shop I had this problem end up pulled the intake twice 1st time I used the expensive gaskets and it leak during the cam break inn pulled off the intake put regular felproes on it hasn't leaked since it was leaking at the water port from the head to the intake just a thought
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Alright. Don't really know where else to look so I'm going to pull the heads off tommorow. Get them magnafluxed ect. Anything I need to know before pulling the heads? Besides praying that my block isn't cracked?
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Anyone?
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Hoping you can keep me from reading the entire thread...
Does this thing have a ballast resistor on it?
Does the coil get a full battery voltage when cranking?
Are you sure you don't have an internally resisted ignition coil along with a ballast resistor?
GT
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Also, if your battery does not show you 12.5 volts static, it is a junk battery. Put a jumper on the (+) side of the coil right to battery voltage and hit the key. It sounds like something is wired funky.....
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Also, if your battery does not show you 12.5 volts static, it is a junk battery. Put a jumper on the (+) side of the coil right to battery voltage and hit the key. It sounds like something is wired funky.....
Yea it has a ballast resistor. Another problem i had was after more than 5-10 seconds of cranking the neg terminal got superrrr hit to where it melted the lead. On the other optima i had laying around same thing happened wth the pos term. Once i get the motor togethor first thing im getting will be a high torque started. And yes i did check the grounds and resisitance from battery to the block, starter ect and it all checked out
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Got a question for the oldsmobile guys. How come 3 different gaskets come with the water pump gasket kit? For different styles of water pumps/plates? Or am I suppose to use all 3 or something?
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What kind of fluid am i suppose to run in the pump bowl? Havent touched it since i got it. And is there a way to drain whatevers in there?
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I run sae90 in mine. I have to fill mine every time I go out... My seals are bad. I just squeeze mine in until it comes out clean on the other side. I know some people replace the plugs with zerk fittings and fill it with grease.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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I run 85w-140 I think, same top it off every time out
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What a BEAUTIFUL boat bud! I am Jealous! :D
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What a BEAUTIFUL boat bud! I am Jealous! :D
Ill trade ya haha
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Hahahahaha you wish! I'll trade ya but I keep my motor ;P
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Finnally got the boat running right and the water out of the oil. Oil issue i had was after running up or down river for 10-15 minutes at 3000-3500rpms oil pressure would be good start at 60 and drop to 40 once it got warm. But as soon as id slow down and come off plane it would drop to 15-20 and hang there until id idle for a minute then its start climbing. Also the motor idles real low after a long run and is sometimes hard to keep idling without goosin the throttle. Its a 12 qrt pan of vr1 straight 50w.
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Any ideas? Is this normal? Is my oil getting too hot?
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Blake! You need to check your tail light fluid man!
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Blake! You need to check your tail light fluid man!
hahaha im so paranoid
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Lmao!!!! You're not the only one dude.... FML
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Is it considered paranoid if after just reading the last couple of post I had to go out in the garage and check my oil.
More power any news yet?
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bitchen boat! i grew up on one of these great solid boat
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Nice!
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Pics
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Bitchin boat I have the same boat. I feel your pain on the problems you are going through.
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Finnally got the boat running right and the water out of the oil. Oil issue i had was after running up or down river for 10-15 minutes at 3000-3500rpms oil pressure would be good start at 60 and drop to 40 once it got warm. But as soon as id slow down and come off plane it would drop to 15-20 and hang there until id idle for a minute then its start climbing. Also the motor idles real low after a long run and is sometimes hard to keep idling without goosin the throttle. Its a 12 qrt pan of vr1 straight 50w.
I'd get an oil cooler.
What oil pump do you have?
Should be a high volume pump, it might not be circulating it around fast enough.
One thing at a time though.
-beerjet-
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Kind of a broad question I'm sure, but I'm gunna re upholster this thing here pretty soon and just want an approximate cost guess from you guys . I'll be building the seat frames myself and I don't need the removable seat cushions done because the p/o had them done. So just need the seat frames covered. Gunna stick with the original waffle stitching which I know will add to the cost a bit. I know there's a million variable but I just need a rough estimate so I know what I need to set aside $ wise. Thanks!
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Kind of a broad question I'm sure, but I'm gunna re upholster this thing here pretty soon and just want an approximate cost guess from you guys . I'll be building the seat frames myself and I don't need the removable seat cushions done because the p/o had them done. So just need the seat frames covered. Gunna stick with the original waffle stitching which I know will add to the cost a bit. I know there's a million variable but I just need a rough estimate so I know what I need to set aside $ wise. Thanks!
Probably $1500-$2000 ball park.
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Blake, shoot me a text I'll get you set up for upholstery
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Martinez marine, talk to eddie let him know Will Shipley sent you over her will take care of u for sure he did a Southwind for more power and it turned out sick as well as a few other boats for guys here on socal.
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Anyone know where to get offy tunnel ram gaskets? Summit has them on there site but it says will ship from manufacture on 4/18/15 haha i dont have thay much time
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I am useing good felpro gaskets marine jim Brock can order them or he might have them siting around
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