SoCal Jet Boats
Discussion => Boat Showcase => Topic started by: 74 Southwind on May 23, 2016, 03:20:08 PM
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Well I think I've put this off for too long..
What sup all? The wife an I picked up our first boat a couple months ago. At the time we were nearing our wedding and didn't have a lot of money to spend, but wanted a boat for this season. We both grew up going to the river with her family (known each other a LOOONG time) its where we started dating, where we got engaged and where we spent our bachelor and bachelorette parties!
But enough about that. We picked up this 74' Southwind as a "runner" but in a little rough shape.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi49.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff286%2Fyltaco05%2FIMG_8363.jpg&hash=1aad459289acc593977694df00ec90b35c43e74c) (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/yltaco05/media/IMG_8363.jpg.html)
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and here are some links to some old threads i found on the boat:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/southwind-18/msg47959/#msg47959 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/projects/southwind-18/msg47959/#msg47959)
http://www.socaljetboats.com/project-boats/1974-southwind/ (http://www.socaljetboats.com/project-boats/1974-southwind/)
She's got an 86' Chevy 5.0L with TPI Fuel Injection, Berkeley 12JC pump, blue paint over the black gel, and thats about it. The seller fired up the motor, took a little coaxing, but sounded healthy once running (minus some sputtering from 4 year old gas). I immediately took her to the car wash to clean her up before bringing her home. Thats when I really found out how bad the blue paint was... Oh well, our first trip was in 2 weeks and there were bigger fish to fry.
Some of the seats weren't mounted, none of the gauges worked, fuel selector valve needed to be wired, old fuel needed to be pumped out, wiring that needed lots of attention, alternator and brackets and wiring, and lots and lots of TLC.
So over the next couple weeks I removed the interior, gauges, wiring, etc. Cleaned out the tanks. Changed the oil, spark plugs, added an air filter, alternator, belt, etc. Re wired all the gauges, but a cheap volt meter to fill the one that was missing. scrubbed and mounted the seats. Added some Eyes to the Transom for trailering / mooring. Unfortunately my phone took a swim (first time ever doing this :banged:) at the river so I lost ALL of my pictures during this first stage. I also greased all the zirks and flushed the oil in the bowl. I must add, though I have good auto/offroading knowledge and have been around boats and watercraft (we also own a pair of jet skis) this is MY first boat and I learned SO MUCH from lurking this board and I thank all of you that as helped out, though you didn't even know it!
Went to Parker in early April for the Bachelor and Bachelorette parties. backed the boat in the water but left it on the trailer, fired her up and looked/listened for anything wrong. All seemed well so we launched her, then the rain started which forced us to dock for a bit till it cleared up enough for her maiden (with us) voyage. Once we finally were able to take her out, we hoped in fired her up and took it easy, again checking for anything "unusual" thats when I noticed only the Voltmeter was working, all other gauges were dead... no big deal, there was a temp gauge on the motor, that my buddy kept his eye on so we set off.
She ran very well, handled great and i was very happy. She did 50 mph with 2 full tanks and 5 people, she isn't a speed boat, but i felt that was "reasonable" for the little 305. The only other mishap was apparently some crap in one of the tanks. as soon as we ran out of gas and switched tanks, she started to loose power and stutter. I shut her down and we floated down river a bit, fired up and was running fine again for 30 seconds or so, then started to sputter and loose power again. so we repeated this game till we could get to the gas station at pirates, filled up the empty tank, switched the valves and we were off to the races again.
Since then I have emptied that tank and found some "tarnishing" on the tank. I was going to put a gallon of diesel and drive around a bit to loosen it all up then siphon out as mush as possible, fill up a few gallons of gas, drive around, siphon it out, then fill her up completely to dilute whatever diesel i couldnt get out to a point where it won't matter.
I have purchased a new tach, new sending units for the oil and water temp gauges, new fuel filters (again, just in case) and some speakers to go with an amp I've had laying around (why not? 8))
The Check Engine Light was on so I finally tracked down the wires needed to read it, turned out to be the MAF circuit... Went to check the relays and thats when I found all of them are fried, melted plastic and everything... hoping thats all it is cause a new MAF is hard to find and expensive i hear. Plan to switch to speed density to get rid of the MAF anyway, but have to decide if Im keeping the TPI or not. the biggest motor I can go with TPI is a 383, not sure if that will be big enough for the long term, and Id hate to find out the hard way... Picked up some new relays and connectors and hopefully have the wired in this week.
Also picked up a used Place Diverter, just need to pick up a few odds and ends to get it mounted up..
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I will also be making a small dash plate to add the switches, CEL, ALT lights, volume knob, etc. as I don't want to drill into the dash just yet.
But lastly the biggest transformation is removing ALL the blue paint and starting to restore the Gelcoat. I did a little test area and man is it a difference. Not a big fan of the "Raiders" boat, but she will do just fine till we repaint/reupholster.
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Hoping to have the gel restored, electrical/gauge work and stereo installed for the Parker Float. Who's all going?
Sorry for the novel.. But if you read the whole thing and have any advice, suggestions, constructive criticism, Im all ears!
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Awesome. Welcome to the socaljetboats/Southwind family bud 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Sent from McIntyre Park
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Congrats! I grew up in a Southwind and own one too! Will be neat to see the original gel shine again
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That's awsome! Welcome..we are Sothwinders too! Great boats!
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Thanks! I didn't know too much about southwinds till I found this and did some research, was very happy to find out how much people loved them. We are very pleased so far, just want to clean it up and make it go faster!! haha
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Any specs on the five liter tpi sbc?
Or the pump? Impeller, etc?
Dan'l
<<<Building a fishing boat with a 5.0 4bbl/Dominator pump.
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Any specs on the five liter tpi sbc?
Or the pump? Impeller, etc?
Dan'l
<<<Building a fishing boat with a 5.0 4bbl/Dominator pump.
Only specs I "know" are 5.0 TPI from an 86-88 Camaro, all stock. 12JC Pump, don't know the impeller cut. don't even have proper RPM/Speed numbers to make an educated guess. hopefully I'll have some better info in a couple weeks when we take it out again.
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'Only specs I "know" are 5.0 TPI from an 86-88 Camaro, all stock.'
that's a start.
'don't even have proper RPM/Speed numbers to make an educated guess'
Working tach would help.
As Glenn said 'That motor is never going to be a screamer. 220 hp at the absolute most.'
I'm lookin at 275 ish
Dan'l
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Have the new tach going in before the next trip. Gonna set the gate to Glenn's suggestions as well.
Gonna swap motors as soon as I can build s new one. The debate is either going 383 and keep the tpi or go carb'd BBC or BBF.
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Have the new tach going in before the next trip. Gonna set the gate to Glenn's suggestions as well.
Gonna swap motors as soon as I can build s new one. The debate is either going 383 and keep the tpi or go carb'd BBC or BBF.
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Keep in mind that that engine goes "open loop" at anything above 3/4 throttle sensor input, so you can pick up an open loop kit for about $40 that will allow you to adjust the idle mix a little bit.
It will run a little better warmed up too. Honestly if you're thinking about keeping the TPI, I would put a Mercruiser style thermostat system on it, water pump and all.
GT
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Any links to this open loop kit? I have t found anything yet.
What's the reason behind the mercruiser set up? If I keep the tpi I'm going stealth ram which would give me the clearance to run the bypass t-stat setup from hardin. I assumed that would be good but if not please tell.
Thank you!
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Any links to this open loop kit? I have t found anything yet.
What's the reason behind the mercruiser set up? If I keep the tpi I'm going stealth ram which would give me the clearance to run the bypass t-stat setup from hardin. I assumed that would be good but if not please tell.
Thank you!
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I will see if I can find one of the kits. It's been a long time. Basically it's a flashed PROM and a potentiometer with a little wire harness for the o2 sensor plug.
Works fair, not perfect, but probably a little less fat than it idles now.
As for the I/O cooling system, you are limited now by water entering the engine being "lake temp". The logs help, but you could circulate the water in the block and get the temperatures up to about 160°F throughout the system. It would run a little cleaner, you can also use a resistor to trick the water temp sensor in thinking is much warner than it is, this will trim the fuel charge and dial it in a little closer. That should be a 5 volt water temp deal, but again, I need to do a little homework.
I had a 1992 TPI injected Corvette 5.7l with aluminum heads in a 1972 K5 CST Blazer 4x4. That thing was an animal. Still got 20mpg with a 6" lift and 35" tires. You could literally set the cruise control at 95mph.
Miss that one.
GT
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I appreciate all the help. I'm definitely interested in doing all that.
So theoretically, what kind of hp/speed to you think I could see with a 350 or 383 with the TPI?
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I appreciate all the help. I'm definitely interested in doing all that.
So theoretically, what kind of hp/speed to you think I could see with a 350 or 383 with the TPI?
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Really depends on the test of the set up, our aluminum tunnel hull with a ZZ4 made the GPS say 83, so on a glass v bottom I would have no problem saying 65. With a very light payload.
Too many factors to really give you a solid estimate.
GT
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Really depends on the test of the set up, our aluminum tunnel hull with a ZZ4 made the GPS say 83, so on a glass v bottom I would have no problem saying 65. With a very light payload.
Too many factors to really give you a solid estimate.
GT
Hmm, Im thinking i'll go carb'd BBC and put this TPI setup in the buggy Im building. I wan to go fast! haha.
Any luck on that open loop kit? I've got nothing... Im hoping to rewire the relays tonight as well as get the alternator completely mounted with the new bracket. My father-in-law (whose been around boats his whole life) said i should be able to just rotate the plate on my logs where the fitting are and get the clearance i need.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi49.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff286%2Fyltaco05%2FMobile%2520Uploads%2Fimage_1.jpeg&hash=f8cf0b7870eca52c160c9d082b7c55811bacfa14) (http://s49.photobucket.com/user/yltaco05/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpeg.html)
Also I realized I was mistaken.. there is one 5/8 out of the motor that dumps through the transom and one 1/2 hose that goes back to the tailpipe
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We had a great time in Parker for the Tube Float. Floated from our place at the Plantation to our buddies place next to the ramp where the float ends. Man what a sit show that was. My wife got some good pictures of that that Ill post up later.
Before the trip I got the relays for the EFI rewired and replaced and mounted, the previous owner had them wired completely wrong. Im still having MAF issues, but just ran it unplugged, best its ran since I've had it. Hopefully its just the damaged wire at the connector that I found, could be the MAF itself or even the ECM, I'll diagnose later.
I also rewired the gauges so they all work, cleaned out the tank that had some crud in it, installed the place diverter, re-mounted the alternator, installed the battery mount i made, installed a stereo (2 6x9's and 1 10" sub) and tried my first attempt at gelcoat restoration.
As for some numbers:
first time out she ran 47.8 mph at unknown RPM with a heavy load (600-700 lbs of people, 28 gallons of gasoline, full gear)
this time she ran 51.2 mph at 4000 RPM with a lighter load (300 lbs of people, 28 gallons of gasoline, full gear) place diverter was 2 clicks down from full up IIRC
Also this was my first time playing with a place diverter and also the rudder along with it. I noticed when all the way down, the boat seems like its harder to get going, not like its slipping but like going against a strong headwind or something. I can really feel the difference when I click it up. When full up, roost is about 2-3 feet high, I don't care about having a giant roost, just want to make sure I installed everything correctly. I also noticed the steering is a lot more stiff now, i assume this is due to the rudder. when idling or coming off idle its a bitch to turn the wheel, but once moving its butter, like it was before installing the diverter and the rudder. is this normal? Ill post some pics in a bit
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As for some numbers:
first time out she ran 47.8 mph at unknown RPM with a heavy load (600-700 lbs of people, 28 gallons of gasoline, full gear)
this time she ran 51.2 mph at 4000 RPM with a lighter load (300 lbs of people, 28 gallons of gasoline, full gear) place diverter was 2 clicks down from full up IIRC
Pretty solid numbers for a five liter. :thumbup:
My Saguaro originally had a 460 Ford in it, did 52 mph with only the driver and low on fuel, - from previous owner.
With a mild 350, and 3 aboard and nearly full fuel and ice chests and gear, went an honest 55 @4600 r's.
I never felt a steering advantage with a rudder. I have since removed it.
Dan'l
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I actually did notice an improvement in low speed maneuvering with the rudder, it was just significantly more stiff than before. It was much easier to dock or retrieve though as I wasn't going lock to lock on the steering or having to increase throttle to get it to turn. I was very pleased.
I am debating on going 350 with some work, or keep what I've got. The wife certainly doesn't want a race car, and pretty soon we will want a bigger boat anyway. Just don't know if the value of our boat is hurting because of the 305.
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TPI... AHH i remember that. Ive had my fair share of TPI vehicles...
And ive built more than one. They can run well, They make a shit ton of torque but everything is over by 4500 rpm...
Look into doing a speed density conversion and ditch the maf sensor and ugly ass air filter deal. Get a nice k&n that goes on the end of the TB that'll give you some decent power. After converting to SD it may help your rich condition out a bit.
Heres some info on it. In your case might be cheaper/easier to buy a painless SD harness and yank a computer from a junkyard...
https://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ecm_swap_730/ (https://www.eecis.udel.edu/~davis/z28/ecm_swap_730/)
With that stock plenum and runners, the fun is over by 4500 or so. You can drop in a cheap 350 with some vortec heads and get a vortec base for the TPI and itll make some good power. I hate to say it, but IMO the 305 is better off an anchor than anything else. If you have the ability look into burning your own chip. Its relatively cheap to do and not to difficult. Also check the timing, if that thing came out of a car i think its set at 6 degrees if i remember right. Bump it up to about 10-12 initial and it should run pretty well.
I had a 91 z28 with a 355, zz4 cam, stock plenum up car ran 12.80's with a "stock" tune. Car would pull 1.5 60 foot times but the fun was over by the eighth mile. It was literally like driving down the freeway from there to the 1/4.
I really wanted to do a TPI in a boat. Cool to see one.
The other side to this coin is you already have the fuel system for EFI. Consider an EFI Ls swap... they run pretty well.
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also look for a corvette distributor cover. They are aluminum VS the plastic on the fbodies. And they look great
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-92-Corvette-GM-Iroc-Formula-TPI-Distributor-Cover-Extention-Aluminum-10108425-/190691457393 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-92-Corvette-GM-Iroc-Formula-TPI-Distributor-Cover-Extention-Aluminum-10108425-/190691457393)
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I'll have to double check... but I think the '85 TPI cam was 202/206 @ .050 and .403/415 lift.
Throw some 1.6 rockers on for a little more lift- .430/442. Cheap and easy, just a valve adjustment.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Block-Chevy-SportsmanRoller-Tip-Rocker-Arms-1-6-1-3-8-Stud,33319.html (http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small-Block-Chevy-SportsmanRoller-Tip-Rocker-Arms-1-6-1-3-8-Stud,33319.html)
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i can tell you that the below combination will make some damn respectable power...
Stock crank
.030" over sbc
World Products "s/r torquer" heads 72cc
.125 dome pistons
ZZ4 cam/springs
Summit 1.5 roller tip rockers
Stock TPI setup
Make sure to get all the sensors for a 350, if i remember right i had a nightmare with the 305 knock sensor running on my 350. I dont know why
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All great info! I was thinking of going SD, already been talking to a guy that will build the harness and supply the ECM and burn the chip for whatever I want. I think he wanted $500 for everything ready to go. I originally wanted to put the stealthram intake on it, but I've been told that's too much air for the 305.
I think I'm going to pull the MAF off and run the filter off the TB and switch to SD down the road. The only reason I thought of keeping the MAF system was I heard they handle more mods and CI than the SD system.
I think I'll keep an eye out for a 96-01 vortec 350 and build it up a little and swap out when ready.
On another note. I sanded this thing down to 220 and back up and it still has bad scratches from what I'm assuming when they did the paint job. Did I just do a crappy/rushed job? Or is the gel just done and I'm better off painting it?
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All great info! I was thinking of going SD, already been talking to a guy that will build the harness and supply the ECM and burn the chip for whatever I want. I think he wanted $500 for everything ready to go. I originally wanted to put the stealthram intake on it, but I've been told that's too much air for the 305.
I think I'm going to pull the MAF off and run the filter off the TB and switch to SD down the road. The only reason I thought of keeping the MAF system was I heard they handle more mods and CI than the SD system.
I think I'll keep an eye out for a 96-01 vortec 350 and build it up a little and swap out when ready.
On another note. I sanded this thing down to 220 and back up and it still has bad scratches from what I'm assuming when they did the paint job. Did I just do a crappy/rushed job? Or is the gel just done and I'm better off painting it?
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500 sounds like a great deal.
On the vortec deal.... Go to your local pick a part on half off day you can yank an R motor out of a truck/suburban/tahoe for 100 bucks....
Stealthram is okay... i had a friend with one... didnt impress me. Did help his breath in the top end though... Though, i think in a boat the stock plenum would be your best bet. Youll want/need the torque down low.
you went to 220, how high up did you go? What are you using to buff?
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i can tell you that the below combination will make some damn respectable power...
Stock crank
.030" over sbc
World Products "s/r torquer" heads 72cc
.125 dome pistons
ZZ4 cam/springs
Summit 1.5 roller tip rockers
Stock TPI setup
Make sure to get all the sensors for a 350, if i remember right i had a nightmare with the 305 knock sensor running on my 350. I dont know why
Ooooo thank you! That's just the kind of thing I'm looking for. Once I can siphon some funds so the wifey doesn't know, I'll start picking up some parts and get building.
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Ooooo thank you! That's just the kind of thing I'm looking for. Once I can siphon some funds so the wifey doesn't know, I'll start picking up some parts and get building.
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quick note on the vortec heads... they take special retainers/keepers if you run any kind of lift. Or they need to be machined....
Running a pair of these on the bahner with a fairly large cam (540" or so) and no issues yet. They are basically a "worked" vortec head
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2151/overview/ (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pmx-2151/overview/)
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500 sounds like a great deal.
On the vortec deal.... Go to your local pick a part on half off day you can yank an R motor out of a truck/suburban/tahoe for 100 bucks....
Stealthram is okay... i had a friend with one... didnt impress me. Did help his breath in the top end though... Though, i think in a boat the stock plenum would be your best bet. Youll want/need the torque down low.
you went to 220, how high up did you go? What are you using to buff?
I went (all wet) 220 - 600 - 800 - 1000 - 1500 - rubbing compound with a wool pad - polishing compound on a foam pad - McGuires boat wax by hand.
I was rushed so that might be the case. I'm trying to post a pic for reference.
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I hate to say it, but IMO the 305 is better off an anchor than anything else.
At 51 mph, its a pretty fast anchor... :screwy:
i can tell you that the below combination will make some damn respectable power...
Stock crank
.030" over sbc
World Products "s/r torquer" heads 72cc
.125 dome pistons
ZZ4 cam/springs
Summit 1.5 roller tip rockers
Stock TPI setup
Make sure to get all the sensors for a 350, if i remember right i had a nightmare with the 305 knock sensor running on my 350. I dont know why
ZZ4 Cam is very lazy.
I stepped up to this: 222/232 @ .050"-I .478"- E .500",-114*LS, 109* ISL, set at 105.
My build:
9.5:1, 113 heads, ZZ intake/750 Holley, vortec bottom end, logs and snails.
Pulls a AA to 4400 now.
Dan'l
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I went (all wet) 220 - 600 - 800 - 1000 - 1500 - rubbing compound with a wool pad - polishing compound on a foam pad - McGuires boat wax by hand.
I was rushed so that might be the case. I'm trying to post a pic for reference.
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I would have tried around a 400 in between the 220/600
Other than that, the process o sounds okay. Might just be the gel
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At 51 mph, its a pretty fast anchor... :screwy:
ZZ4 Cam is very lazy.
I stepped up to this: 222/232 @ .050"-I .478"- E .500",-114*LS, 109* ISL, set at 105.
My build:
9.5:1, 113 heads, ZZ intake/750 Holley, vortec bottom end, logs and snails.
Pulls a AA to 4400 now.
Dan'l
I had to pass smog so thats why i stuck with the ZZ4. And like i said it ran VERY well.
I had a friend with the GM LT4 Hot cam, its a little more aggressive. His car ran pretty good. We are going to swap the cam from the bahner to the LT4 hot cam soon. The one we have in there is to big
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Hmm. Well when I get more time I'll try again. Back down to 220 and back up with a 400 in there as well. And I'll take my time. Next trip with the boat is August I think. We are going for the 4th but wife wants to take the skis, man I need a new trailer so I can just take both.
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I can't wait to start building a new motor. Thanks guys!
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Hmm. Well when I get more time I'll try again. Back down to 220 and back up with a 400 in there as well. And I'll take my time. Next trip with the boat is August I think. We are going for the 4th but wife wants to take the skis, man I need a new trailer so I can just take both.
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are you using a real buffer to buff it? Or one of those cheaper ones? Sorry if thats offensive, i dont mean it to be.
Theres some stuff that auto body stores carry. I forget the name. But it does all 3 steps at once. Might go check that out might work for you
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It's a real buffer. Variable speed.
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been googling til my eyes bleed. I cant find what the stuff is called i was referring too...
but it would cut, buff and polish with one pad at one time.
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damn that would be nice... There is a detail shop by my house, since the boat is still hitched up, I may drag it there tomorrow and talk to the guy. I get all my detailing supplies from there and the owner is VERY knowledgeable. I'll let you know what I find out
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Hey joey it's John, boat looks good man keep it up.
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What's up man! Thank you, nothing compared to yours, you are kicking ass over there!
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