Post by: Flusher on December 20, 2015, 11:38:13 PM
Post by: Flusher on December 20, 2015, 11:57:46 PM
I wanted to have cool race parts on my boat too. I reverse engineered my Berkeley G bowl, the same way I did the original Dominator bowl, with just a test indicator and a mill equipped with a Digital Read Out (DRO). I generated a drawing in SolidWorks from the point that I measured. I did this for every surface that I could reach, inside and out. In some cases, I had to make special styli to reach into the curved vanes.
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 01:21:47 AM
I performed some basic Finite Element Analysis (FEA) to determine if my concept was feasible. Testing was simulated at 4000psi, approximately 10x the maximum operating bowl measured.
Stress testing revealed something interesting. By making the wall thickness more consistent, the failure point (red) was drastically reduced. It is important to note that that this is a very basic test and not truly indicative of real world results because I didn't model the vanes. The actual failure point of an un-modified Dominator bowl is spot on with the failure point (red) of the original test simulation. Of course that requires in excess of 2,000 horsepower to blow out a chunk. I leave this area unaltered as to not weaken ir further.
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 01:49:39 AM
I wanted to also integrate the bowl plug and vane extensions into this spacer that would extend back into the droop for water control, but I didn't have the time nor the guts to machine out 7/8" of my bowl vanes, potentially scrapping my bowl, and fit new extended vanes.
My intent was to come up with a design totally unique from what I had done in the past as well as what the copycats are doing. The contours are all elliptical radii, blending the spacer/cradle into the original contour of the bowl.
The bowl and spacer/cradle were modeled as one so that the contours blend seamlessly. The single model was then cut into two separate part detail models, one for the bowl and one for the spacer/cradle. The two separate detail models were then inserted into an assembly model.
The assembly model was imported into MasterCAM and code was generated to machine both parts assembled together.
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 02:19:35 AM
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 02:24:27 AM
Post by: capogniracing on December 21, 2015, 04:39:52 AM
Gimme that BECKY!
Post by: jyeager on December 21, 2015, 09:54:43 AM
Sent from McIntyre Park
Post by: lil_riddle_ on December 21, 2015, 10:19:09 AM
"It's the shit"
Post by: jimpen on December 21, 2015, 11:37:38 AM
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
Post by: coors909 on December 21, 2015, 12:24:11 PM
Sent from somewhere in Cali
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 10:15:04 PM
Joe I will give you 50 bucks for it right now.
Sorry Jim, I just can't take less than the customary SCJB offer of a candy bar wrapper and a half-empty beer with a cigarette butt in it, I got too much invested.
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 10:16:47 PM
Looks amazing joe! Topline work as always. 👍🏻👍🏻
Gimme that BECKY!
That is awesome. I love the spacer with the ride plate cradle. 👍🏻 nice work Joe
Sent from McIntyre Park
That is bad ass. Work of art.
"It's the shit"
Nice work! It's been awhile sense I have seen good machine skills
Sent from somewhere in Cali
Thanks you for the kind words
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 10:43:46 PM
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 10:50:52 PM
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 11:01:35 PM
Post by: Mrblueeyesnick on December 21, 2015, 11:15:20 PM
Sent from my garage drinking a cold beer!!!
Post by: Flusher on December 21, 2015, 11:22:06 PM
This stuff is awesome, amazing work Joe, keep up the good work
Thank you
Post by: Nick on December 22, 2015, 10:11:36 AM
Top notch work Joe, I still get compliments on my Ford rail kit that you and Chris made me. :thumbup: :thumbup:
Post by: Flusher on December 22, 2015, 08:52:25 PM
Amazing work! Now I get it, Flusher is Joe from B1.
Top notch work Joe, I still get compliments on my Ford rail kit that you and Chris made me. :thumbup: :thumbup:
Indeed.
Thank you. I enjoyed the opportunity to work with a Ford. Hope you are keeping up with your machine shop classes.
Cheers,
Joe
Post by: MorePower on December 22, 2015, 09:34:11 PM
I think you should make your own thread "Joe's badass shit" lol
Keep the pics coming brother..
Sent with my Fingers
Post by: crewchief22 on December 23, 2015, 06:02:52 AM
I'd get that idler trademarked or you'll be seeing Chinese knock offs available at Summit soon.
Post by: Blue2184 on December 23, 2015, 07:07:53 AM
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
Post by: carrera202 on December 23, 2015, 07:29:44 PM
Drinking a cold coors light and learning about boats
Post by: Flusher on January 03, 2016, 02:06:14 PM
Blowers are old news now. I don't think there is much market for idler pulleys. Plus, it is not really my design, I just admire that Halibrand design. Also, as an engineer, I am not down with copying someone else's design for profit.
On a side note, Halibrand should have taken the steps to protect themselves against the plethora of unauthorized copies of their products.
Post by: Flusher on January 03, 2016, 02:07:34 PM
I'll take a mini convo pro... 😎
I almost went that route myself
Post by: steves86ta on January 03, 2016, 05:59:36 PM
Post by: riverboatmike on April 28, 2016, 08:51:50 AM
Post by: Flusher on May 01, 2016, 07:22:04 PM
really admired the machine wrk just wondering how much weight savings and cost of cosmetic maching to a dominator pump
Thank you very much.
This started out where the customer was seriously into building as light a boat as possible, starting with the lightest pump in the world. He had a titanium shaft made. The steel ball bearings in the thrust bearing were replaced by ceramic. Then we were tasked with finding other areas to lighten the pump, starting with the bowl.
A typical Dominator bowl has just over four pounds removed. We try to build everything with minimal bloat anyway, but this is for the extreme.
Years ago, I got to work with a guy who made funny car bodies. He was heavily involved in composite applications for drag racing. He told me that at the pro level, each pound removed cost $1,000. When I commented, aren't they already at the class minimum? He said, yeah but the weight can be put back on, as ballast, where it will provide a performance gain.
Post by: Flusher on December 11, 2016, 01:26:02 PM
Anyway... I'm growing wary of being a boatless loser, so I am getting back at it, not to mention the years are going by faster and faster.
Post by: Flusher on December 11, 2016, 01:51:53 PM
The polishing on my blower has been driving me absolutely crazy. Since this is the first thing I see when I climb into my boat, in order to make me feel warm and fuzzy inside, it needs to be right (yes, I know it makes no difference to how it runs). To this build, it's important to me.
I decided that the cast bearing plates and cover would never clean up the way I wanted, so I decided to upgrade (I thought) to billet bearing plates and front cover.
I am really pleased with the front cover although I wish it was available without the sight glass and pressure relief valve or relocating them to the side and top respectively to give a broader look to the mirror-like polished front surface.
Post by: Flusher on December 11, 2016, 02:28:50 PM
I sent the part to the polishing shop that I have used in the past however, it had new owners that don't have the same attention to detail. They hit it really hard on the buffing wheel. Of course this removed the galling, but the part become really lumpy, looking like (as my high school auto body teacher would say) a sack of walnuts.
Sihilling Polishing has a reputation for specializing in polishing parts for high end restorations of Rolls Royce and the like. It was decided that this part will never be flat again without remachining. Until last week, I had no way of accurately picking up every surface so that I could remove material from only the damaged surface and not removing any material from the ribs.
Post by: Flusher on December 11, 2016, 03:15:52 PM
Hard anodizing penetrates into the material .003 to .004 and builds up on the surface .001 producing a very hard surface of aluminum oxide for wear resistance.
I would like to give special thanks to Dave at Embee Coating for helping me out with this.
The thing that makes hard anodizing a complex part expensive is; since hard anodizing builds up every surface by .001, for example, the press-fit on the bearings increases by .002 (.001 per side).
A liquid rubberized masking is applied and trimmed so critical surfaces are not exposed to the electroplating process. Any leaks under the masking could ruin the part.
Unfortunately, this plate was plagued with the same poor quality machine work as former. Over the past few months, I was able to spend eight full days wet-sanding out the galling to bring the surface back to flat.
This is all the time I could dedicate to this, I wasn't able to do all I wanted. Now, it is what it is. I'm pretty over messing with this part. Now, just hoping for the best.
Post by: Flusher on December 11, 2016, 04:58:49 PM
The wood in my transom is good, I just want to protect it and give it a more finished look. This is something I have been thinking about for a long time.
The wood in the transom of the customer's bubble deck was mostly good except for the area right behind and below the pump. He originally wanted the entire transom replaced. This would have required R&R of his carpet and added substantial time to his build. All the glass work became localized to just the bilge area, saving time and money.
After experimenting with different router bits and finding every possible way to over complicate this, I discovered the fastest and easiest way was to cut the wood down to the exterior glass with a Dremel Multi-Max oscillating tool, bevel it with a 4" grinder with a 36-grit flapper wheel, and block sand flat.
I intend (once again) to finish the glass work this Christmas.
Post by: Flusher on July 12, 2019, 08:02:32 AM
Scored a Dart Big M a few days ago. Special thanks to Bostick for inspecting it for me, and to chaosmotox for transportation.
Post by: Six-Oh-Nine on July 12, 2019, 06:58:33 PM
Feeling the call to the water again. I have been on hiatus, from my own personal goals, for far too long. I have been 100% focused on making, what I feel are some really nice parts (https://www.instagram.com/b1_racing/?hl=en). I'm excited to start making progress again, focusing my efforts on getting my engine back together.No problem bud... I’ll get her cleaned and checked out in a couple days.
Scored a Dart Big M a few days ago. Special thanks to Bostick for inspecting it for me, and to chaosmotox for transportation.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=201)
Post by: Flusher on July 30, 2019, 07:10:57 AM
I really enjoy programming and solid modeling. Sure, I could have just run the same program twelve times, but what fun would that be? Wrote a macro to loop a subroutine twelve times, moving the fixture close to the door, for easy part rotation.
Post by: Zep654 on August 12, 2019, 05:15:33 PM
Post by: Flusher on August 16, 2019, 06:33:04 AM
Post by: Flusher on August 16, 2019, 06:47:00 AM
Post by: 08chevyguy on August 16, 2019, 10:59:01 AM
Look forward to watching this come together Sent from my SM-J727T using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app (http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=201)
Post by: Flusher on August 16, 2019, 04:41:45 PM
Loving the attention to detail Joe
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This is absolutely amazing! Please keep up the good work. I hope you keep up with the pictures so I can keep drooling. You are a genius with the machine work. She want's to be wet again!Thank you
Post by: Flusher on January 28, 2020, 05:36:43 AM
I have always wanted to run Oliver rods. Finally scored a set of the Big Block Max Series, in 6.535" length, to hang on my Crower 4" crank. Hopefully a set of CP pistons are in my near future.
Post by: Flusher on January 28, 2020, 12:55:09 PM
It is best to just save money and build an engine all at one time rather than stacking parts for years, hoping to, one day, have a complete engine. Believe me, I understand the whole "wanting to see progress" thing. Here are a few thoughts about why this is a bad idea:
Technology Changes Constantly
A perfect example, just a few months ago, when I bought my Oliver Big Block Max Series rods, that was the best Oliver rod available at the time. I see that Oliver now has the Big Block Max Plus Series rods, which apparently are rated for higher horsepower applications. I wouldn't have hesitated to spend a little more on the upgraded set, because I have plans to upgrade my blower at some point.
Cylinder heads are a perfect example of exactly why you shouldn't buy a new castings until you need them. Port designs evolve constantly as well as manufacturing technology. The Dart 320s, for example, flow way better today than castings from years ago.
Learning Curve
I actually started my build before I even owned my boat. I figured that i had to start somewhere. I bought my 4" Crower crank in 1999. It is a 6 counterweight, non-twisted forging, 4340 crank. At the time, I was building an engine modeled after what my friend built for the previous owner of what is now my boat. I was unnecessarily concerning myself with things like rod ratio and such. A 4" stroke made sense back then.
Now that I know more about jets, I would have opted for a 4.250 stroke. A bigger and heavier boat needs a bigger impeller to launch. You have to make big power to turn a jet pump impeller high RPM. I don't want low-end, but power at a lower RPM (compared to a car) that corresponds to the requirements of the impeller.
Depreciation
I have seen many people work very hard to buy a lot of expensive parts and store them for years. Then some life changing event forces the sale of said parts for pennies on the dollar.
I have found that, the longer things sit around unused, the more they degrade. These last few months, I have been cleaning house at my shop in preparation to move in my CNC mill. I marvel at the money that I just threw away because stuff degraded beyond use.
One way or another, it's costing you to store whatever it is that you are waiting to get around to. I bought an '89 3500 because it had a 454 and a Doug Nash overdrive. I figure, I could have purchased four overdrives (new) for what it cost me to store that truck.
If you are not enjoying what you are working so hard to pay for, it's not worth buying. "Things you own end up owning you" Tyler Durden.
Cheers,
Joe
Post by: 08chevyguy on January 28, 2020, 03:38:50 PM
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