SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: mike rod on November 12, 2016, 12:04:51 PM
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Hey guys I just had my 454rebuild from ground up it's now 30 over with all new parts and I just wanted some advice/opinions on the break in some do's and don'ts any advice would be appreciated thanks
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What camshaft? Roller? Flat?
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Don't put it one fyno right outta the gate and enjoy the time to yourself as far as running the boat and seeing its performance..
Sent from the Waterwheel crew
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I'll have all the specs for you just getting the build sheet but non roller lifters
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DO:
Set your timing prior to firing.
Prime your carb float bowls.
Follow your cam manufacturer's break in procedure.
Check for oil and water leaks before firing.
DO NOT
Crank it excessively trying to start it the first time.
Try to pump fuel to the carb by cranking the starter.
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Use a drill mounted oil pump primer to get oil pressure up before you install the distributor. I also prefer to get the distributor in and timing set before installing the spark plugs, crank the engine over a few revolutions, confirm you have oil pressure and no leaks, then install spark plugs.
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Fill carb bowls with fuel through sight plugs. Use an empty water bottle and a small amount of gas. Punch a small hole in the cap. Squirt gas in carb and crank to fire until carb is primed. Be sure to have a fuel pressure gauge to be sure there is fuel pressure to keep engine running once it fires. About 7 psi for a holley. Good luck.
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Don't forget to leave the driveline sitting on the ground.
If you have to stop for one reason or another, start from the beginning and completely do it over.
Have some zip ties and a pair of diagnals on your pocket, to set the throttle speed, use a tie wrap
GT
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Holy shit!! And may angels leed you in!!! Bahaha lmfao!!! Lucas break in oil, set her at 2k and hit the key for 20 min fluctuating rpm all bit! It's not rocket surgery , she'll go or blow..😄👍👍Good luck..
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You know there is very little that requires break in. If all the clearances are right, it'll be fine. If all the bolts are tight, it'll be fine. Just make sure it has oil in it, and doesn't overheat. Think of it this way, does Nascar break anything in, do Folks "break in" a new vehicle, is Top Fuel "broke in", does a dyno session "break it in", . I think we all know the answer. Give 'er. If it is good, no problem, and if you did something wrong, you will know right away. Just my two cents worth.
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You know there is very little that requires break in. If all the clearances are right, it'll be fine. If all the bolts are tight, it'll be fine. Just make sure it has oil in it, and doesn't overheat. Think of it this way, does Nascar break anything in, do Folks "break in" a new vehicle, is Top Fuel "broke in", does a dyno session "break it in", . I think we all know the answer. Give 'er. If it is good, no problem, and if you did something wrong, you will know right away. Just my two cents worth.
Nascar breaks in engines.
GT
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You know there is very little that requires break in. If all the clearances are right, it'll be fine. If all the bolts are tight, it'll be fine. Just make sure it has oil in it, and doesn't overheat. Think of it this way, does Nascar break anything in, do Folks "break in" a new vehicle, is Top Fuel "broke in", does a dyno session "break it in", . I think we all know the answer. Give 'er. If it is good, no problem, and if you did something wrong, you will know right away. Just my two cents worth.
Every single engine that goes on a dyno goes through a "break-in" procedure... unless your dyno operator is a hack. And basically you do not break in a flat tappet cam... you just pissed away a lot of money and time as it will fail... no ifs ands or buts.
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According to the Crane Cams catalog:
Initial lubrication is extremely important. There must be a molybdenum coating between the cam lobe and lifter to prevent metal-to-metal contact. Before installing your new cam, coat all lobes and the bottom of each lifter with a moly disulphide based assembly lubricant. Use a high quality 30 or 40 weight oil. Do not use a multi viscosity oil, such as 10W-30 or 20W-50. Also, for extra protection, an anti-wear additive (zinc dithiophosphate) must be added.
IMPORTANT! Do not allow the engine to run UNDER 1500 RPM for the first half-hour or so. Also, CHANGE RPM FREQUENTLY to direct oil to different places. Slow idle speeds or continued operation of the starter will result in severe cam and lifter wear during the initial start-up period. Prime the carburetor before starting so that you may immediately start the engine and bring it to break-in RPM.
REMEMBER... the first 10 minutes are the most important in a new camshaft life.
After you have completed the "break-in," immediately change the oil and filter.
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According to Larry Shepard, from the MoPar Engines 8th ed. book:
Engine Break-In with Rough Bore Finish
When chrome flashed rings are used, cylinder bore finish should be 15-25 micro inches. This is fairly rough as is the production bore finish of 20-30 micro inches. The proper break in procedure with this bore finish is (for a car):
* 10 part throttle shift cycles @ 3500 RPM
* 5 part throttle shift cycles @ 5000 RPM
* Cool down to dead cold
* 3 part throttle shift cycles @ 750 RPM below maximum
* 3 part throttle shift cycles @ 250 RPM below maximum
* Cool down.
* Race.
Engine Break-In with Smooth Bore Finish
With the new smooth hone finish (AN5OI Sunnen stone-wet) on the cylinder walls, resulting in 10-15 micro inches, the following procedure should be used for engine break in:
* Each run should consist of short interval 1/2 to 2/3 load bursts.
* 5-6 runs beginning at 4500 RPM.
* Increase the engine speed each time approximately 500 RPM. Cool each 2-3 runs. Don't let the engine get over 180-degrees F (car).
* Final run of break-in cycle -- Max power RPM.