SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: HUGETHING on February 07, 2010, 07:54:55 AM
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hey guys I need your help, I have read a bunch of posts on this subject but I also read on a video as well about getting the oil to return faster to the pan. I have no Idea what to do or to look for. Does anyone know of the so called video and where I might find it?
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hot boat had a article on that in the magazine, try mondelo olds .com you drill some holes in the sides of the heads and plum hose down to the oil pan...
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Try this article. I didn't read it all but it looks pretty in depth...
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0302phr_oldsmobile_455ci_engine_build/index.html
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Call A&D or JBP both great supporters of this site. All the info is common knowledge and is already out there. They make oil restrictors, windage trays, etc. for these motors. some people just hog out the existing drain holes a bunch. Some people drill and plumb an external line from heads to pan. There are dozens of ways to skin this cat and most of them are pretty easy. Or just keep an eye on your oil pressure guage and don't hot rod.
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Iam going through my 455 olds right now and have researched alot, The whole idea ive found is not to starve the pump. Oil just dosnt get back to pan fast enough . Oil resticters on 1234 mains also in lifter galies 9/16 push rods youve got to drill out the heads to ecept the 9/16 rods drill and match bearings for the resticters mondello sells over sized bearing 399.00 to much. Also the hole from the lifter valley to timing chain area grind the lower side of the hole and remove the lip good luck hope it helps. You can drill and tap back of the heads install fittings and lines to a T and then to pan useing the drain hole with a fitting . disconnecting line at T makes oil change less painful. :thumbup:
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What's this video you speak of?
Harry's got it, mostly. Restricting the oil, rerouting the oil, IMO, is not such a good thing. You can never get too much oil to any part of any engine, IMO. Yes, drainback is the main issue. Hand grinding all casting flash, and even smoothing the lifter valley and tops of the cylinder heads is never a bad idea. A windage tray, crank scraper, and large capacity oil pan with trap doors is a must. Do that, you should have a good 6000 rpm Olds engine that will hold it's own with the chebbies and ferds.
Simple Physics over re-engineering what millions was spent to make it the reliable torque monster it is. Control where the oil goes and limit it's chance to "froth", you're GTG!
Just my humble opinion.
Ray
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What's this video you speak of?
Harry's got it, mostly. Restricting the oil, rerouting the oil, IMO, is not such a good thing. You can never get too much oil to any part of any engine, IMO. Yes, drainback is the main issue. Hand grinding all casting flash, and even smoothing the lifter valley and tops of the cylinder heads is never a bad idea. A windage tray, crank scraper, and large capacity oil pan with trap doors is a must. Do that, you should have a good 6000 rpm Olds engine that will hold it's own with the chebbies and ferds.
Simple Physics over re-engineering what millions was spent to make it the reliable torque monster it is. Control where the oil goes and limit it's chance to "froth", you're GTG!
Just my humble opinion. Ok. :screwy:
Ray
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Just wanted to thank everyone for the feed back it helped out alot.
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Drill the oil return holes in the heads bigger and the holes on the block need to be hogged out to thats what im doin on mine and adding oil restrictors and a 10 qt pan