SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: dbushey on August 22, 2014, 04:34:47 AM
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I just picked up a 1973 Wriedt with a 455 olds. The first time out the oil pressure dropped to 20psi after a couple laps at elsinore. The front and back intake manifold pan gaskets were leaking oil badly also. I have heard that this is typical for the 455 olds motors. What do you people think?
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Welcome to the Wriedt family I have a 75 Mavrick. Love the way it rides when it's running haha.
From what I've gone thru, been told and read you are going to want to et oil mods done ASAP.
I'm
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Manifold gasket replacement is a simple straight shot... What does the oil pressure start off at? What oil are you running? What's your engine temp? Do you know what mods have been done internally? What size oil pan?
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I don't know of any mods, oil pressure started at 45, oil pan looks like a stock pan but I don't really know except that it holds 5 quarts. I put 5-30wt
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Oh and the engine temp was very low as the dude I bought it from had water strait from the pump with no gate valve so it was running 120 or less. I am in the process of re-plumbing the system.
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Okay, def get a bigger pan. If you aren't sure of oil mods, it will help keep oil through the pump instead of running dry. When pressure starts to drop, what RPM are you at and for how long?
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It started to drop after running at 4500rpm for 60sec or so, not very long.
My plan is to run it easy for the rest of this season and pull the motor this winter. Hoping that is!
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5w-30 is thin.
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I have read that some use strait 40wt....
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I run straight 50. First 30 seconds cold itll be around 75 psi then drop to around 60 after a minute then after 20 minutes cruising at 4000rpm it'll drop to 30. And thats with a 12qrt pan. Like morepower said get a bigger pan. And when you go through the motor make sure you do the restrictors and what not.
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You should be running a straight weight oil. I run 40weight racing in might 455.
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Same here that seems like thin oil I'd swap over to a straight 40w like the guys are talking about. I run the Castrol hd40w and have had 0 issues
SRC
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I run a 20-50 blend with a zinc additive.
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20-50 with zinc sounds excellent or the old straight weight although the 20-50 has a little better protection when she first fires up.
Isn't the old gripe about the Old's is weak oil return anyway? Im sure theres Olds guys to tell you the cheap tricks to help all the way to the Mondello tricks.
as far as gasket leaks from block pressure I dont wanna bore anyone with my point of view on that but gate valve or pressure relief some way to throttle it may be helpful. Sounds like it has logs I had a Tahiti with logs no valve but water just ran through it it ran cold most the time.
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20-50 with zinc sounds excellent or the old straight weight although the 20-50 has a little better protection when she first fires up.
Isn't the old gripe about the Old's is weak oil return anyway? Im sure theres Olds guys to tell you the cheap tricks to help all the way to the Mondello tricks.
as far as gasket leaks from block pressure I dont wanna bore anyone with my point of view on that but gate valve or pressure relief some way to throttle it may be helpful. Sounds like it has logs I had a Tahiti with logs no valve but water just ran through it it ran cold most the time.
Just because I like you ....
The "20" in your 20w-50 is only at 0 degrees F. The "50" on the other hand is at 210 degrees...
You want to run that one by me again. I boat when the temps are near 90+. I don't the 20 wt is doing what you think it is.
GT
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No I was just trying to get you to chime in quickly where you been.
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I use straight 30 weight
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He's only at 120 temp
You didnt give him any suggestions GT
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No I was just trying to get you to chime in quickly where you been.
Here and there.... Been trying to put together a couple of engines and been spending a lot of time "shopping"...
You?
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Doing everything except anything to my boat.
But there is no water around here anyway. At least thats my excuse
so what info do you have for the Olds oil pressure
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Oh and the engine temp was very low as the dude I bought it from had water strait from the pump with no gate valve so it was running 120 or less. I am in the process of re-plumbing the system.
Jet Fever is making me do this or he'll put me in a time out..... :screwy:
The cheapest way to get some use out of this deal without hurting it would be to install a 3/4" gate valve and the associated fittings to throttle the amount of water to the engine. Basically you need to idle the boat in the water with the valve wide open, slowly closing it until you see the engine temperature start to rise. Typically a real good starting point is around the 140°F to 150°F mark. Once there, take it for a spin, the water temp should drop a little and be quite stable at about 130°F or so.
A good temporary and super cheap fix for the oil return issue would be to install some roll pins in the push-rods, this will limit the amount of oil feeding the top of the valve train with no other ill effects. Pipe cleaners have also been used with varied success. Just shove them into the push rod.
As for the oil weight, I would not run anything less than 40 wt. 15w-40, 20w-40, straight 40 would all work just fine.
You have to be real careful with that station wagon pan... Too full and it will foam, too low and you run out of oil... You should be able to run it about a quart too high and you will be better off.
As for the intake manifold end leaks, does this have an iron or an aluminum intake... If aluminum, you do not need the cookie pan.... Use nothing but RTV on the ends.
GT
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Thanx GT.
I didn't just wanna catch up on homeboys thread.
Excellent procedure writing skills.
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Doing everything except anything to my boat.
But there is no water around here anyway. At least thats my excuse
so what info do you have for the Olds oil pressure
Went down to Nacimiento last week, pretty sad, water level is at 17%.... Heading to Shasta in September and I heard it's at 31% which computes to 147 feet down from crest. Holy chit...
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Yup.
C'MON EL NINO damnit.
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I remember shasta when it was above the tree lines in the late 80s and 90s. Miss that place and fire works in the delta
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I want to thank everyone for the informational and educational responses. I have completed the motor and plumbing fixes. We are hoping for a fun weekend. Again Thank you!
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update on my olds oil pressure and temp... Used the Castrol 40wt HD, added a 3/4" gate valve. the oil pressure was up around 50psi at start up and dropped to 30psi when temp came up to 130-140.
the boat ran great all weekend, fired up every time and out ran some other jet boats! the biggie no more WATER in the oil and no more oil leaks.
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Sounds like his oil problems are fixed I have no idea how to start a new thread so I'll just jump on this one cause it's close to what I got. I got a 455 olds it has a 10q pan, stock pump and oil restrictors. Couple issues. Oil pressure drops to 25 once warm. Read about oil type I use 20-50 with zinc add. I also read about temp issues due to contact with crankshaft. Level is little under full on stoke dip. Second issue is around 4600 oil starts leaking pretty good. Somewhere near the back on the driver side. Read about crankcase pressure and controlling with breathers. I have Pcv going to back of carb . And a mopar style breather going to fame arrestor. No baffles tall aftermarket stainless steal valve covers because of aluminum heads and the rollers.
I want to raise my oil pressure and maintain it. Stop my leaks. What you guys got?
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Sounds like his oil problems are fixed I have no idea how to start a new thread so I'll just jump on this one cause it's close to what I got. I got a 455 olds it has a 10q pan, stock pump and oil restrictors. Couple issues. Oil pressure drops to 25 once warm. Read about oil type I use 20-50 with zinc add. I also read about temp issues due to contact with crankshaft. Level is little under full on stoke dip. Second issue is around 4600 oil starts leaking pretty good. Somewhere near the back on the driver side. Read about crankcase pressure and controlling with breathers. I have Pcv going to back of carb . And a mopar style breather going to fame arrestor. No baffles tall aftermarket stainless steal valve covers because of aluminum heads and the rollers.
I want to raise my oil pressure and maintain it. Stop my leaks. What you guys got?
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Build a Chevy. JK. I have always heard that 455 olds have oil pressure issue and my buddy had one in his 76 Nordic. He ran straight 50 valvoline race. Didn't seem to change anything. So unfortunately he built a Ford for it. Now it's just a slow 76 Nordic. I hope he reads this. He is going to be pissed. LMAO.
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Sounds like his oil problems are fixed I have no idea how to start a new thread so I'll just jump on this one cause it's close to what I got. I got a 455 olds it has a 10q pan, stock pump and oil restrictors. Couple issues. Oil pressure drops to 25 once warm. Read about oil type I use 20-50 with zinc add. I also read about temp issues due to contact with crankshaft. Level is little under full on stoke dip. Second issue is around 4600 oil starts leaking pretty good. Somewhere near the back on the driver side. Read about crankcase pressure and controlling with breathers. I have Pcv going to back of carb . And a mopar style breather going to fame arrestor. No baffles tall aftermarket stainless steal valve covers because of aluminum heads and the rollers.
I want to raise my oil pressure and maintain it. Stop my leaks. What you guys got?
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The oil pressure drop depends on the oil temperature. Toy could either be short on oil or possibly making a root beer float (foamy, delicious mess). The foam could also explain the leaks.
IMHO, throw the PCV valve in the parts pile and add another MOPAR breather.
To start a new thread in the app, go to browse forum and hit the quote icon.
On a PC browse the subject and hot start new thread.
Good hunting.
GT