SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Hornet951 on October 18, 2013, 01:10:25 AM
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ok so i built my 455 old new everything did the machine work on top end high volum oil pump 10qrt pan cam lifters ect ect.... the only thing i didnt put back in was the valley pan .now thats it s in the boat after breaking in the cam .tuneing the carb n so forth i shut it down n its leaking out of the in take manifold between the block n intake .now i just threw out the rube gaskest n put rtv cause thats what ive always done .so just asking cause its leaking again n again should i put the valley pan back in it .ive tryed to reseal it twice now n all torqed right .any suggestions .oooooh n uesed all the fel pro gaskest to if that makes diffrence .
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What kind of intake are u using. If u are using a aftermarket intake u don't use the valley pan also u need to use gasket that blocks off your heat risers and use RTV around the water jackets only and let it sit for a bit before u put the intake back on. Once u have put the intake back on and tightened it down them let it sit for a day so all the RTV is dry.
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the intakes a edelbeok torqer .n i did it sat for almost two day but thanks ill try n do it again.also i was doing some more research have you ever heard of dimpling the block n intake so that the rtv sticks beter . should i try n do this befor just for lil extra ins ?
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do you have any type of pcv system? it sounds like you have a shitload of crankcase pressure if you're blowing the RTV out... the valley pan just keeps oil from splashing the bottom of the intake, heating it up... especially with the older crossover intakes it would be hot and the oil would splash it and heat up. you shouldnt have an ill effects from not installing it...
are you sure the intake is properly seating to the surrounding area? any large gaps, etc? properly torquing the bolts when you install it and not over tightening them?
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"the intakes a edelbeok torqer .n i did it sat for almost two day but thanks ill try n do it again.also i was doing some more research have you ever heard of dimpling the block n intake so that the rtv sticks beter . should i try n do this befor just for lil extra ins ?"
Dimpling the block won't hurt. I've done with and without. Make sure that you clean off all of the sealing surfaces on the block and intake real good with Scotch-brite and acetone. RTV usually doesn't stick to itself very well if you're putting new stuff over old stuff. And (obviously) all of the oil needs to be off the surfaces. Make sure your bead is tall enough to reach the bottom of the intake (plus some).
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yeah im running the pcv in the vale cover .n it dosent seem like it is when you pull it out n put your hand over it but ill double check it .also its all been torqed to spec starting with the first n ending with a higher torqe setting like my book says .
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hey mp im pretty sure im putting plunty of rtv on the surface . but when i do it again ill lay an extra thick n wipe up what oooooozzzeesss out but thanks guys ill try n play with it more tomrrow when i get a chance to play with it but thanks guys imma look over everything .anything else ishould look for our anything when im out there torrow .also if anyone you guys need a water pump cover let me know .sell it cheap n a set of i think theye 3 inc exhaust bells .thanks guys
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Get everything clean, set a bright flashlight in the valley and set the intake in place without gaskets, look to see if you have any uneven gaps around the sealing surfaces. You will have light coming out, but you want to look for anything that looks excessive or crooked. You might have to cover youself and the top of the engine with a towel or tarp to make it dark enough to see the light through the gaps.
Do you have any history on the cylinder heads? Have they been surfaced excessively? Has the block been decked? These are things that can affect the intake manifold from seating properly.
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I had a 455 in a kona I had I bought it with the intake off they said they said they dropped a bolt down the carb so they took it off so we put it back to gather and the gap on th back of the block was huge and some of the bolts on the intake all most needed to be reemed out it was a torker 455 intake It would blow oil out the back no matter what I did I came to the conclusion the heads where milled and the intake was not matched does it bolt up fine is it the same intake that was on before it leaked
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well thanks guys for all the help n as far as history with the heads n block other thank haveing them done .no machine work that i know of n as far as the block gose it came with the boat it had spun a baering so i rebuilt it n did the heads n did the opening for the oil that everyone had suggested .but ill go check the gaps n stuff .as far as the holes and everything lineing up it seems perfect .but the gap in back dose seem a lil excessive .idk ill have to look again but thanks guys i didnt get a chance to realy play with it today got called into work so now its off to the garge to see what i can find out n drink a cold beer .thanks guys
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If you ditch the rubber end seals, don't use regular red, blue, or black RTV. I would recomend using GMS (General Motors Sealant, or Chrysler Threebond) They are assembly adhesives that will damn near seem as though you welded the two. Biggest question is if the heads or deck were milled. If so, then the intake must be milled to accomodate the change in angle/depth. Mondello's book can tell you what the per .001" milling will change everything and where to take the measurement on the head to determine if they were milled any. I have the book but it's not handy as I write this. :banghead:
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thanks guys as of a couple days ago I got to go out n light it off n see if it puked oil still but after I pulled the intake off cleand everything real good n dimpled the surfaces it seem to be good but thanks for all your guys help .