SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Hddaddy on April 18, 2014, 09:52:25 AM
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My issue is the following, boat runs great all day, once it is "hot" the 50 amp breaker will pop. After resetting it, boat runs but starts having an issue with what I believe is the timing, starts backfiring through carb. Running HEI ignition, Indmar 454. Bad breaker? or something else. Someone suggested that it could be an alternator problem or battery issue. Any thoughts?
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Try setting the timing when the motor is warm instead of setting it at cold.
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You have a short somewhere. Nothing in a jet boat should draw 50 amps...
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If there was a short, wouldn't it do it when motor is hot or cold? Seems to only do it after its been running for awhile.
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If there was a short, wouldn't it do it when motor is hot or cold? Seems to only do it after its been running for awhile.
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Do you have individual fuses for things? Or just everything on a single 50 amp? Surprised you don't have a burned wire. 50 amps will toast smaller gauge wires.
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The 50 amp is the main. Have fuse block under dash. 50 is on back of motor. Believe it feeds off of battery or starter.
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No burnt wires, everything works until the breaker trips. Then once I reset it I start having the backfire in carb. I know, sounds crazy.
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Sounds like something in the ignition circuit. Does it pop the breaker as your running? How long after cooling down will it run correctly again. The hotter wires get the harder it is for current to flow so see if any wires are hot, loose or faulty connections. Maybe also have the battery load tested.
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Sounds like something in the ignition circuit. Does it pop the breaker as your running? How long after cooling down will it run correctly again. The hotter wires get the harder it is for current to flow so see if any wires are hot, loose or faulty connections. Maybe also have the battery load tested.
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Happens only after the boat has been running for awhile, ran from Thompson bay to steam boat on havasu and breaker popped well at full throttle, lost all power.. Have to wait for breaker to cool down (aprox 5 min) before it can be reset. I can honestly tell you, that the batteries are fine. Why, you might ask, well that's what I do for a living. I am a battery distributor.
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Your alternator my be over charging the system and blowing the breaker. To much charge will screw with the coil and timing will sound off.
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Your alternator my be over charging the system and blowing the breaker. To much charge will screw with the coil and timing will sound off.
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That might explain why it only pops after running for awhile. Causing the breaker to get to hot....
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I vote alternator. Maybe a bad coil?
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I vote wire connection is getting hot. Just a guess though. Make sure you post up what it turns out to be. Got me curious.
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I vote wire connection is getting hot. Just a guess though. Make sure you post up what it turns out to be. Got me curious.
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Will do, at shop now, waiting to hear back from mechanic. I was at a loss, so I 'm letting the pro's handle it.
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Thinking faulty ground.
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Faulty diode in the alternator could likely be the cause.
Easiest way to diagnose is to start the engine and put a voltmeter on the battery, test for "AC" voltage. If you read AC volts at the battery, replace the alternator...
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Does that systems have an on sensor in it ? If so I've seen those things pop those fuses
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Will do, at shop now, waiting to hear back from mechanic. I was at a loss, so I 'm letting the pro's handle it.
o2 sensor stupid auto correct
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No o2 sensor. I'm guessing alternator. I'll have an answer tomorrow hopefully.
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So as of now I am at a loss on this issue. Everything seems to check out okay according to the mechanic. What to do now :'(
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Stupid question but what size wire do you have between your ignition and your starter? Had a hot rod that had the same problem couldnt figure it out. Some old drunk at a show said change the ignition wire to a #10 at least. Thought he was full of shit. Thought it couldn't hurt though. I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem! Dont know why......
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Stupid question but what size wire do you have between your ignition and your starter? Had a hot rod that had the same problem couldnt figure it out. Some old drunk at a show said change the ignition wire to a #10 at least. Thought he was full of shit. Thought it couldn't hurt though. I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem! Dont know why......
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yup the starter/ignition wire needs to be a good size. thats why i use relays so i dont have to run giant cables around inside of my boat.
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Any idea what alternator you have? Are you running a voltmeter or an ammeter?
Here is a little test to try and narrow it down. Run a 10 gauge wire from the post on the alternator to the positive side of the battery and run it again.
If it wired in the conventional sense, the power from the alternator goes to an orange wire, all the way to the dash and back. these wires would traditionally go "through' an ammeter and they would typically have a 35 am alternator.
On most boats, they use an internally regulated alternator, the exciter wire is the voltage typically to the dash ign. wire. This tells the alternator the condition of the charge. If the alternator is seeing too low of voltage from the exciter wire, the alternator will full field and definitely cause the breaker to trip. It may not do it when the boat is "cold" because the battery has not yet reached full charge.
I am grasping at straws here, but this experiment wont hurt anything and is totally reversible.
GT
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I appreciate all the suggestions and thoughts on this. But, I have had this float for 6 years with no issues, it is an 2002 model, so I am a little stumped on this problem. What concerns me is that this has happened on a couple occasions and when your at wot and lose all power and have no control with family onboard. Its scary, still have it at shop, hopefully Monday after they run it they can figure out the problem.
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Any idea what alternator you have? Are you running a voltmeter or an ammeter?
Here is a little test to try and narrow it down. Run a 10 gauge wire from the post on the alternator to the positive side of the battery and run it again.
If it wired in the conventional sense, the power from the alternator goes to an orange wire, all the way to the dash and back. these wires would traditionally go "through' an ammeter and they would typically have a 35 am alternator.
On most boats, they use an internally regulated alternator, the exciter wire is the voltage typically to the dash ign. wire. This tells the alternator the condition of the charge. If the alternator is seeing too low of voltage from the exciter wire, the alternator will full field and definitely cause the breaker to trip. It may not do it when the boat is "cold" because the battery has not yet reached full charge.
I am grasping at straws here, but this experiment wont hurt anything and is totally reversible.
GT
Voltmeter, Leece Neville alternator
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Check the eye terminal connections at the starter motor. Check for corrosion or looseness.
What you are searching for is a voltage drop, which draws current. Basic electricity. I am trying to help you seek out on which side of the system the problem is.
A loose battery terminal will do the same thing. Oh, and I don't care if it starts "just fine" this has absolutely nothing to do with it.
GT
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I understand, ill check it all out and will post the answer when it is figured out.
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Need I find the specs for the coil, the ignition circuit and the alternator and ohm test them. I would check them all cold and right down your findings then run it for awhile to get it hot stop and test all components again and see if one of them is reading a lot more ohms then cold test. Also check wires from starter to relay or the breaker. This is the kind of issue that drives us all nuts.
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I vote wire connection is getting hot. Just a guess though. Make sure you post up what it turns out to be. Got me curious.
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Well after a month of fighting this issue, problem solved. Bad tachometer.
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