SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: el mojado on April 11, 2018, 07:12:24 AM
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I have my engine sitting where I like it. Angles are good; 2 degrees up then 2 degrees down to keep the jet input shaft and crankshaft parallel. Rails are level. I am using blocks with 4 degrees machined into them and sit flush to the rail and plate. My issue is that the plates are not sitting on the rail; 1/2 inch gap in rear and about 3/4 in the front. Will this work? ...... BBC, 496, Jacuzzi, 21 ft. Mini cruiser
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Pics will help diagnose
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I figured it out. I will flip the rails so the flat side is up an level to the stringers. Then cut the plates to sit on the rails and maintain my geometry.
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When you say plates you mean your motor mount plates correct
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And two degrees is a shitload... How long is the driveline? how much "pan room" do you have left?
GT
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I figured it out. I will flip the rails so the flat side is up an level to the stringers. Then cut the plates to sit on the rails and maintain my geometry.
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Yup... The vertical should be below the horizontal...
GT
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The driveline is a standard 2 u joint split yoke kinda deal. What kind of angle works better? From the searching I have done, 2 degrees at each u joint seems good. 2 up and 2 down to get the crankshaft line parallel to jet input shaft. The blocks have 4 degrees machined into them from Tom at JBP. That would now put my rails level and the engine sitting 4 degrees up.... what am I missing???
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And two degrees is a shitload... How long is the driveline? how much "pan room" do you have left?
GT
I have enough pan room. Not sure exactly but enough
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The driveline is a standard 2 u joint split yoke kinda deal. What kind of angle works better? From the searching I have done, 2 degrees at each u joint seems good. 2 up and 2 down to get the crankshaft line parallel to jet input shaft. The blocks have 4 degrees machined into them from Tom at JBP. That would now put my rails level and the engine sitting 4 degrees up.... what am I missing???
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Really only a degree or even get away with a half. The pump shaft angle should be at three degrees to the stringer, the crankshaft should be exactly the same, which you do have, so that means you should likely have a 1 degree down on the rails in the fron to eat up the last degree for the blocks...No?
GT
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Initially I did have 2 down, then 2 up, but info coming from you seems to be biblical around here so I went with your recommendation. 1 degree down from shaft then 1 up. Thanks for everyone's responses. I made a few mistakes but I was able to recover. In the end, it looks good, not professional, but good.
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Initially I did have 2 down, then 2 up, but info coming from you seems to be biblical around here so I went with your recommendation. 1 degree down from shaft then 1 up. Thanks for everyone's responses. I made a few mistakes but I was able to recover. In the end, it looks good, not professional, but good.
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That deal is beautiful... Great job.
GT
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That deal is beautiful... Great job.
GT
Thank you sir.... last question: are stainless bolts ok for the blocks/feet?
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All mine are stainless good bad or indifferent. Be sure you use anti seize though.
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Thank you sir.... last question: are stainless bolts ok for the blocks/feet?
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I'm not a fan of stainless hardware, but in the case of precision stuff, they will be every bit as strong as the aluminum. Never Sieze or Loctite is necessary, stainless galds very easily. I use grade 8 which is twice as strong as SS..
GT