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Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Ckaz21 on March 13, 2014, 07:09:43 PM
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Out of '84 454 hardin marine engine.
Rods have gm stamped on them along with the numbers 367 or 357 (not sure if its a 5 or 6 on those numbers)
Sorry the pics are blurry
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They look cast to me. Normally forged anything will have a thinner part I line. Cast normally will have a bigger grinf mark on them.
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I think you mean the other way around casting leaves a very fine parting line from the mold forging leaves a thicker line that has to be ground off.
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They look cast to me. Normally forged anything will have a thinner part I line. Cast normally will have a bigger grinf mark on them.
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Actually that's backwards. Forged has a wide mark, while cast stuff has a thin line where the molds came together.
Also I'm pretty sure all gm rods were considered "forged" by definition, but I could be wrong. I'm sure someone else will chime in on this.
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Oh you guys are right. I was writing that in class tonight. My mistake
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So were you saying they look forged or cast? Tried to find info online but there is very little.
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I am pretty sure that all connecting rods were forged before the factories started going to the powdered metal process in the early nineties. Those are forged.
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So are the factory forged rods not as good as the aftermarket stuff? I'm going to throw a 100-150 shot of spray on it, I'm buying forged pistons but I wasn't sure if the rods would hold but I guess since they're forged I should be ok?
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So are the factory forged rods not as good as the aftermarket stuff? I'm going to throw a 100-150 shot of spray on it, I'm buying forged pistons but I wasn't sure if the rods would hold but I guess since they're forged I should be ok?
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Just make sure to use good bolts. That's the weak link IMO
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Just make sure to use good bolts. That's the weak link IMO
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yep at just a 100 or 150 shot stock rods are fine just have them rebuilt using good rod bolts
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They are forged... they are the "truck" style rods, which are the better of the two (actually 3) versions of the 3/8 bolt stock rods. Resize with ARP bolts in them and they'll be plenty fine for a 150 shot...
matter of fact... with a good tune, I've thrown 275 at a set of beamed and shot peened 3/8 rods w/ARP "pro" bolts and they took it perfectly fine for dozens of bottles worth of passes. GM rods are really not as bad as people like to claim them to be... You'd be amazed at what you can reliably build with on a nicely built/machined 2 bolt studded, balanced cast crank, 3/8 ARP bolt rod, bottom end.
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They are forged... they are the "truck" style rods, which are the better of the two (actually 3) versions of the 3/8 bolt stock rods. Resize with ARP bolts in them and they'll be plenty fine for a 150 shot...
matter of fact... with a good tune, I've thrown 275 at a set of beamed and shot peened 3/8 rods w/ARP "pro" bolts and they took it perfectly fine for dozens of bottles worth of passes. GM rods are really not as bad as people like to claim them to be... You'd be amazed at what you can reliably build with on a nicely built/machined 2 bolt studded, balanced cast crank, 3/8 ARP bolt rod, bottom end.
Same here with my 67' Camaro 275 shot with a four speed never had any problems. Like I said good bolts is the key. 396 .030 forged crank & 10:1 pistons squeezed the shit out of it....never should've sold that one!!!!
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That's a sick ride man! Thanks for the info guys I'll slap some ARP bolts in them and call it good!
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Just make sure you have the big end resized after you install the bolts... the big end bores will distort a little bit with the installation of new bolts and the better clamping of the arp provides.... .002 out of round just installing new bolts is not uncommon.
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Resizing is a must. Rebuilding 101. I guess I shouldn't assume that. Guys if you're building a motor and spending money on parts at least buy a book to make sure doing it right.
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