Bassett T's !?!?!?

« **Reply #25 on:** September 04, 2007, 06:03:59 PM »

It's been running great all season long till the bassett T got stuck shut.

« **Reply #26 on:** September 04, 2007, 08:06:27 PM »

I have never had one stick closed, but I have had many that get stuck open and let water in at idle. The design if plumbed right make it almost impossible to stick closed. The spring is what presses the bal onto a seat and that causes the water to stop flowing to the headers. Just check to make sure you have it correctly plumbed. With that control valve you will one time or another forget to turn it on or off.

« **Reply #27 on:** September 04, 2007, 10:13:13 PM »

You can get a 3/8 water pressure gauge from the hardware store, use it to replace the water drain plug on the side of the block. It s a cheap way to insure you are not pushing the pressure limits, especially since you are making changes to the plumbing configuration. Ive been fighting the water in oil problem, I cant go over 15psi or gaskets leak. (copper). decided to go with the pressure bypass rather than the regulator. High flow at low rpm to keep it cool. Running the manuel valve for the header water.

« **Reply #28 on:** September 04, 2007, 11:09:52 PM »

Got the T apart and it turns out that if you get the smallest amount of sand in it it wedges behind the ball and does not allow it to move.

« **Reply #29 on:** September 04, 2007, 11:23:33 PM »

Well now that fukin sucks .

-beerjet-

« **Reply #30 on:** September 05, 2007, 07:23:41 AM »

You'll regret running just a ball valve. Why don't you run a high-flow inline filter in front of it to keep the sand/crap out. Just clean or replace the filter every once in a while. Try to stay out of shallow water. Remember, even at idle your pump will suck shit from 3-4' down. As a rule of thumb try to run it in not much less than chest deep water. That will prevent a lot of problems. Don't forget to pull the little drain petcocks out of your block and run water through it to flush sand out of your block. This is sounding more like the users error than it does equipment failure. Sorry Marc.

« **Reply #31 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:01:11 AM »

Here's a stupid question, why didn't you make your engine's water outlet dump into the header's collector's, where those bungs are just sitting there?

« **Reply #32 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:07:11 AM »

just get a Banderlog valve and never worry about it again

http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html

« **Reply #33 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:10:02 AM »

Quote from: Blue on September 05, 2007, 08:07:11 AM

just get a Banderlog valve and never worry about it again

http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html

I've seen the link before but never clicked on it, that thing is SIK and next season I will have one of those on my boat.

« **Reply #34 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:11:38 AM »

Quote from: Blue on September 05, 2007, 08:07:11 AM

just get a Banderlog valve and never worry about it again

http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html

BTW, I wouldn't try that on through transom headers like marcsrollin has, I'm sure the headers 4" rubber tube needs cooling all of the time, back to the "why not dump the engine's water outlet into the header collector's?"

« **Reply #35 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:22:09 AM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on September 05, 2007, 08:11:38 AM

BTW, I wouldn't try that on through transom headers like marcsrollin has, I'm sure the headers 4" rubber tube needs cooling all of the time

I REALLY dont think you want to be pumping water into your headers under 1500rpms. Thats the reason for the valve. $:-\$

« **Reply #36 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:29:05 AM »

Quote from: Brad @ SoCalJetBoats.com on September 05, 2007, 08:22:09 AM

I REALLY dont think you want to be pumping water into your headers under 1500rpms. Thats the reason for the valve. $:-\$

Marc's boat has through transom headers. Marc's boat's headers have 5 water inlets per each header. 4 of those water inlets are on the header where it attaches to the cylinder head, just like "normal" boat headers. The 1 other water inlet on those headers is in the collector, which is after the header rises and falls below the boats water line. So although I agree with you that you don't want water in the 4 water inlets below 1500 RPM's, I disagree with you that you don't want water in the collector below 1500 RPM's.

Let's see what Marc's reply is as to how many RPM's he was turning when the header collector's rubber hoses failed. Marc?

« **Reply #37 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:53:34 AM »

Quote from: hotrod56cars on September 05, 2007, 08:29:05 AM

Marc's boat has through transom headers. Marc's boat's headers have 5 water inlets per each header. 4 of those water inlets are on the header where it attaches to the cylinder head, just like "normal" boat headers. The 1 other water inlet on those headers is in the collector, which is after the header rises and falls below the boats water line. So although I agree with you that you don't want water in the 4 water inlets below 1500 RPM's, I disagree with you that you don't want water in the collector below 1500 RPM's.

Let's see what Marc's reply is as to how many RPM's he was turning when the header collector's rubber hoses failed. Marc?

got it.

edit: btw, wasnt arguing, just misinformed about the setup on these.

« **Reply #38 on:** September 05, 2007, 08:58:52 AM »

« **Reply #39 on:** September 05, 2007, 09:30:16 AM »

Quote from: Blue on September 05, 2007, 08:07:11 AM

just get a Banderlog valve and never worry about it again

http://www.banderlog.com/products/waterInjectionValve/waterInjection.html

Im getting one of those cause this whole valve thing phucks me up. Open / close. Screw it

2sav

« **Reply #40 on:** September 05, 2007, 10:58:20 AM »

You guys still need to keep debris out of that electronic thing don't you? I'm not sure why everyone is sold on that. Now it's more complex. more complex=more possible problems.
Shit I'm an IT guy and I'll be the first to tell you the latest aint always the greatest. I used the T-Valve with a regular old home depot status ball valve and inline fuel filter in front of it. Every now and then I'd open up the filter and clean it out. You should still be dumping water into the collectors like I said on page 1.
"Maybe weaken up the spring in your T or plumb the headers so the water dumps into the collector instead of the individual tubes."

Just don't take the water away from the individual headers. Instead take the outlet off your transom and dump it through the collectors. If you're not gonna listen to anyone on here you might as well call the professional at Rewarder. they did make the header's you've got didn't they? Plumbing headers is something they do very well. What I'm saying is what he told me to do.

« **Reply #41 on:** September 05, 2007, 11:20:32 AM »

Quote from: UNDONE on September 05, 2007, 10:58:20 AM

You guys still need to keep debris out of that electronic thing don't you? I'm not sure why everyone is sold on that. Now it's more complex. more complex=more possible problems.
Shit I'm an IT guy and I'll be the first to tell you the latest aint always the greatest. I used the T-Valve with a regular old home depot status ball valve and inline fuel filter in front of it. Every now and then I'd open up the filter and clean it out. You should still be dumping water into the collectors like I said on page 1.
"Maybe weaken up the spring in your T or plumb the headers so the water dumps into the collector instead of the individual tubes."

Just don't take the water away from the individual headers. Instead take the outlet off your transom and dump it through the collectors. If you're not gonna listen to anyone on here you might as well call the professional at Rewarder. they did make the header's you've got didn't they? Plumbing headers is something they do very well. What I'm saying is what he told me to do.

Yea, I don't think debris is good for anything in that system. Also, that relay system is not the cure for through transom headers as there still will not be water going through those runner hoses at 1500 or 2000 RPM's (depending on where it's set at.

As far as more parts = more possible problems, I agree with that to an extent, but man I got to say that I love cold beer and I ain't getting rid of that fridge and trading it for a large tub of salt anyday of the week.

KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) is good but so is techonology.

« **Reply #42 on:** September 05, 2007, 12:34:35 PM »

I am gonna try to answer everyones questions and comments here.

1.I was at wide open throttle when it happend.
2.The headers are made by Bassett not rewarder.
3.Everything worked fine the way it was set up for many many many hours of ideling and WOT all season long the way it was set up.
4. I did not run the dump water from the engine through the headers due to not feeling comfortable with that much water flow to my headers incase the flaps got pushed shut due to slowing down and getting water pushing on them from the outside.

« **Reply #43 on:** September 05, 2007, 04:08:21 PM »

Quote from: Marcsrollin on September 05, 2007, 12:34:35 PM

I am gonna try to answer everyones questions and comments here.

1.I was at wide open throttle when it happend.
2.The headers are made by Bassett not rewarder.
3.Everything worked fine the way it was set up for many many many hours of ideling and WOT all season long the way it was set up.
4. I did not run the dump water from the engine through the headers due to not feeling comfortable with that much water flow to my headers incase the flaps got pushed shut due to slowing down and getting water pushing on them from the outside.

1. So much for Rod's "it must have happened at idle theory"...

2.

3. I definately agree with that.

4. It's worked for countless boats with through transom logs and snails.

« **Reply #44 on:** September 05, 2007, 04:29:25 PM »

Agreed Rod.

« **Reply #45 on:** September 05, 2007, 06:56:52 PM »

Quote from: Emanon Performance Marine on September 05, 2007, 08:58:52 AM

wtf does that mean?

« **Reply #46 on:** September 05, 2007, 07:03:37 PM »

just get a outboard mark

all the water is out of the boat or new over the transome header.

« **Reply #47 on:** September 05, 2007, 09:07:37 PM »

as for the debris deal the Banderlog has a cleanable filter...just simply unscrew and wash it out..The banderlog has proven itself to many boaters so don't knock it

« **Reply #48 on:** September 05, 2007, 09:56:29 PM »

Quote from: bkplesh on September 05, 2007, 06:56:52 PM

wtf does that mean?

Hell I don't know

OBs are my favorite now;
http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=6b0rrrl

« **Reply #49 on:** September 05, 2007, 10:01:49 PM »

Quote from: Emanon Performance Marine on September 05, 2007, 09:56:29 PM

Hell I don't know

OBs are my favorite now;
http://video.tinypic.com/player.php?v=6b0rrrl

just playing

Marcsrollin

Ema Non-Performance Marine - BANNED

78 PROPDUSTER

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beerjet

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Brad @ SCJB

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2savage4you

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hotrod56cars

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