Intake Bolts

« **on:** November 21, 2010, 12:41:33 PM »

We are getting ready to install the intake on Bebo's engine. Do I need to buy an intake bolt "set" or can I use standard bolts that are the correct length?

Thanks

« **Reply #1 on:** November 21, 2010, 01:31:13 PM »

Frank i use stainless bolts with AN washes and lock washers that are the right length.

« **Reply #2 on:** November 21, 2010, 02:28:07 PM »

Quote from: BOOST on November 21, 2010, 01:31:13 PM

Frank i use stainless bolts with AN washes and lock washers that are the right length.

I use ARP's spline headed bolt kit, I never use lock washers due to the potential oil seepage in the valley. Use some quality sealer on the bolt threads like Permatex High Temp Thread sealer http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm

The torque sequence is extremely crucial...http://www.chevellebigblock.com/intaketorquepattern.html

Good luck guys!

GT

« **Reply #3 on:** November 21, 2010, 03:06:46 PM »

I would love to go either of those routes, but for budget reasons I want to know if there is any reason I could not use a standard zinc type bolt. I will buy stainless or ARP if necessary, but would like to opt for another route for the time being if possible.

« **Reply #4 on:** November 21, 2010, 03:09:03 PM »

Quote from: Tio Pancho on November 21, 2010, 03:06:46 PM

I would love to go either of those routes, but for budget reasons I want to know if there is any reason I could not use a standard zinc type bolt. I will buy stainless or ARP if necessary, but would like to opt for another route for the time being if possible.

Standard bolts work fine, just use some hardened washers (flat) and some quality sealant and you will be GTG, GM only in the last 15 years changed over to an integral washer type bolt.

« **Reply #5 on:** November 21, 2010, 03:12:03 PM »

Thanks Glen,
thats great news. Means we can spend money elsewhere to get this thing done!

« **Reply #6 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:03:55 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on November 21, 2010, 02:28:07 PM

I use ARP's spline headed bolt kit, I never use lock washers due to the potential oil seepage in the valley. Use some quality sealer on the bolt threads like Permatex High Temp Thread sealer http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/thread_compounds/a_thread_sealants/auto_Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm

The torque sequence is extremely crucial...http://www.chevellebigblock.com/intaketorquepattern.html

Good luck guys!

GT

Ive should of known GT was going to post and make everything I say meaning less good luck Frank.

« **Reply #7 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:16:02 PM »

Not to stir a pot, but are you saying that I should not use "regular" bolts? I don't want to screw something up over a few bucks.

« **Reply #8 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:16:33 PM »

Quote from: BOOST on November 21, 2010, 04:03:55 PM

Ive should of known GT was going to post and make everything I say meaning less good luck Frank.

LMAO, sorry BOOST, definitely not meant that way at all. I have a motor home with a 454 and it literally hemorrhaged oil on the Edlebrock Performer intake and all I did was to remove the split ring lock washers from the bolts and reinstalled them, leak went bye bye...

Didn't meant to offend, I'll try to be more selective in my wording in the future $:-\$

GT

« **Reply #9 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:23:25 PM »

Just my .02, but I definately prefer stainless. hell I even had the mani plugs that were not stainless start to rust on me

« **Reply #10 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:25:18 PM »

Quote from: Tio Pancho on November 21, 2010, 04:16:02 PM

Not to stir a pot, but are you saying that I should not use "regular" bolts? I don't want to screw something up over a few bucks.

No Frank GT is right on the money, i use stainless on all my hardware minus the drive line stainless doesn't rust and i never had a problem with a oil leak using lock washers,but if i did i go his route

« **Reply #11 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:33:10 PM »

10-4. What I am trying to do is get this thing up and running and then fine tune the importand stuff. I bought the ARP head bolt kit (non stainless) cuz I did not want to have to replace them later, but I thought the intake is a little less critical to replace after the fact. No doubt stainless is the way to give given my choices. But if I can get him running and on the water with standard bolts I think I will and change them out later.

Thanks for the input guys.

« **Reply #12 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:35:30 PM »

Quote from: GT Jets on November 21, 2010, 04:16:33 PM

LMAO, sorry BOOST, definitely not meant that way at all. I have a motor home with a 454 and it literally hemorrhaged oil on the Edlebrock Performer intake and all I did was to remove the split ring lock washers from the bolts and reinstalled them, leak went bye bye...

Didn't meant to offend, I'll try to be more selective in my wording in the future $:-\$

GT

No worries GT I'm a little sensitive right now

its cold and raining and I feel like this

« **Reply #13 on:** November 21, 2010, 04:59:59 PM »

Just a bit more of my .02 Frank, I know you are on a budget and all, but why not spend a few bucks extra and get the stainless? You wont have to buy the bolts again, and then change them. Just be done with it

« **Reply #14 on:** November 21, 2010, 05:16:44 PM »

I am going to price out the stainless on Summit/Jegs etc. Unless they are way too much I will probably go that route. Thanks for all the input guys. Keeps me from all the rookie mistakes.

« **Reply #15 on:** November 21, 2010, 06:29:00 PM »

I have stainless bolts from the industrial supply in everything outside the engine except the head bolts on my big block. I put allens every where i can access them and standard 6 points evry where else. An industrial supply like fastenal is much cheaper than the hardware store and then arp bolts. I have arp's on all the internals though. I also have grade 8 bolts and not stainless in the drive line assembly to the jet.

« **Reply #16 on:** November 21, 2010, 08:29:39 PM »

McFaddenDale Hardware on Grove in Ontario has a large selection of Stainless Bolts.

« **Reply #17 on:** November 21, 2010, 08:32:11 PM »

Talked to Boost a little while ago who also gave me the name of another local guy to get the hardware as opposed to ordering from Jegs/Summit. Thanks for all the info guys.

« **Reply #18 on:** November 21, 2010, 08:46:02 PM »

Here you go Frank SO CAL BOLT& SUPPLY
1846 K W 11TH street
UPLAND CA 91786 (909)931-9191

« **Reply #19 on:** November 21, 2010, 10:03:29 PM »

Quote from: Tio Pancho on November 21, 2010, 08:32:11 PM

Talked to Boost a little while ago who also gave me the name of another local guy to get the hardware as opposed to ordering from Jegs/Summit. Thanks for all the info guys.

I'm in agreement as well on the stainless. Your stock bolts will work fine, but stainless is soooo good looking and will remain so, you also don't need the expense of the overpriced ARP stuff.

Boost has ya hooked up!

Fortunately for me, Casa Grande is still kinda mom/pop and I got a place around the corner called Fred's Nuts and Bolts where I get all my weird stuff. If he ain't got it, or can't get it on the cheap, I prolly don't need it...... If I remember right, Moo's latest Allen head intake bolts, studs, nuts and washers cost me a whopping $25 or so, including the stupid long middle studs for the weird Ski Tow I'm adding this time around. He had it all on hand!

Ray

« **Reply #20 on:** November 23, 2010, 06:00:49 PM »

Frank did you buy the intake bolts yet? if not i have a set of stainless you can have.

« **Reply #21 on:** November 23, 2010, 07:40:42 PM »

Thanks Brian I have not. I will give you a call. I still want to come over for the carb. Maybe Friday?

Tio Pancho

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