when you look through the breather holes you can see the cam and there is no scoring or scrapes on it at all.  she looks brand new.  I already ordered a new gasket and high volume oil pump w/new shaft.  It should be here in a couple days. Im pretty sure the heads are dove-c's.

Question  #1 what oil pan is on this motor stock or after market 10qt or???
     
              # 2 Is that msd dizzy in the motor?  be shore to check the drive gear on
                dizzy to see if  drive pin is OK?? I have seen shaft broken and pin on dizzy
         
              #3 If stock pan and some used them I would not use a high volume
                   pump my O2 on that
 
             #4 check cam drive gear to see if worn bad ?
 
            #5 Use a heavy duty oil pump drive hex not a stock one !!!!
 
            #6 How long did motor run with no oil pressure
     
           #7 Its hard to see if any  water was in top end. If ever thing turns out OK
           
            #8 Be sure to roll you push rod on flat surface to see if any are bent
 
          #9  Turn motor over see if all piston come to top no bent rods
   
          #10 check berg to , clean head and block surface real good !
       
          #11 cut oil filter and check for metal in it will tell you a lot 

before you put the dizzy back in, get one of the oil pump primers that you spin with a hand drill and spin the pump for like 5 mins to see what kind of oil pressure u get, plus if theres any crap in the rotating assy from the old pump it may help get it out. Trust me on this one.

My self if I had a motor that ran 1 or 2 min with out oil OR MORE  , It would get complete take down and inspection and all new berg put back, even if they look good, black is not good ether. Check cam to see if is flat And clean it all oil galleys.
 I just saw 1 to 2 min or more that it got hot to, and that you came back in under load back to dock.

i've had two bbf fords after messing around with the dizzys have no oil pressure! seems to me them stupid oil pump rods gotta be right on...i may be doing it wrong but after a couple trys i have my own system down...i ran both motors a minute or 2 seeing if the pressure would come up then shut them down...i would check to make sure the oil pump rod is going into the distributor...it may just be me but it seems like that is where i have been having my issue

Was there a clip on the shaft just below the boss in the block, if the hex gets F-ef up, the rod will want to spit out of the pump and into the dizzy...I've heard....Fords hate me.

GT

pulled the motor today.  the pump shaft definatly busted and bent.  Im assuming that happened when we pulled the dizzy out to correct the timing.  there is no clip that holds it into place pretty much just a shot in the dark and feeling.  pulled a few of the rod caps and there is normal markings on it from rotating.  pulled 3 of the main bearing caps and they looked good too with no scoring.  I am really confused here as to what happened.  Could it be that the motor loaded up a lot of water and blew the gasket before any damage could be done??? the motor did not get hot at all.  i am going to price all the component for a new bottom end minus cam and crank.  the cam does not any scratches or gouges in it and is not flat.  i will keep you guys updated on any new findings

Okay so I have thoroughly cleaned the crap out of everything.  I made sure that i removed all of the old gasket remnants and have wiped everything clean.  My question is, if there are any metal shaving left at all eg. in the rings or in the crevices of the crank will that cause me problems or will the new oil flush that out to the oil filter?  Should I pull all of the pistons out and clean those too?  If I do that will I need to replace the piston rings and the sleeve's for the rods??

bertus, one question, maybe one anyway....

How much metal did you find in the pan?

If there were remnants of metal in the pan (especially small shavings), I would pull the entire motor apart and clean everything...If you pull the pistons and rods carefully, and not mix up the caps (wrecking yard paint pen works really well for us older far sighted types) you can reuse the rings and bearings with little to no issues, you will need a piston ring compressor, I highly recomend the tapered ring types, not much money and super fast (compared to the band type).

The only thing is, you have to buy the one for the pistons you have and they only work for that sized piston. (I have like seven different sizes).

The pistons should go back in the same hole they came out of, as do the bearings.

The problem with leaving it together and running it is you will always have doubts in your head everytime you start the boat.....

If there is a small particle of metal (especially hardened steel) stuck in the ring lands, it will cut the cylinder like a reciprocating saw and destroy the honed surface, possible damaging a piston. 

For the three or four hours it would take to pull it down, clean and reassemble the motor, I think the piece of mind would be worth while. You already have it this far......Maybe just me 

Hows that?

GT

awesome.  thank you.  thats what i will do.  there was not a lot of shavings in the pan but i consider myself to be meticulous with most things i do and would rather feel safe than sorry.  the caps for the crank bearings and for the rods have already been stamped with the numbers, so i wont have to worry about that part.  I bought a new dizzy, a new h.v. oil pump and a hd pump shaft.  My biggest concern was possibly having a cracked block or head.  They are the dove-c heads which are cast.  I have read a few other places that they are fairly hard to crack so hopefully no issues there.....Thank you guys so much for all of the insight. 

I am assuming that if I put a new set of pistons and rings in there those scrapes will cause problems??? 

Yeah the pistons are definatly shot.  The piston pictured is the one that caused the gauge in the piston wall.  Why does the crank look suspicious??  Any insight will help

 I would have the block jet washed and then clean all the oil gal lies my self, I would take the crank to someone like Dougan's Engines & machine (951 681-1961)
  in Pedley= Riverside and have them polish the crank
and or mike the crank and they can turn the crank, will tell you if the block can be honed or bored, Big Paul
has been there over 25 years and they do top line work, For lot's of race teams. And Paul is a FORD Man,   
 I would buy the Ford  or the ARP oil pump Drive 7/16" Heavy duty. Chrome moly, centerless ground rod part # m-6605-a429 it wont fall in to pan and it fits in the block 
dosen"t lay over dizzy goes in and out with no broblemess,  :banghead:YOU wont here that rod hit oil pan bottom it can even be put in from the top, Doesn't use the WE call the lock on the shit shaft, And it looks like round rod with hex drive stuck in each end, One of the best replacement parts you can buy and I have never seen one brake ether. Did you cut the oil filer and take a look in it, Good luck on the rebuild.
 

OPPS good EYE must of been were water came in, May be frist rebuild block was not bored
 big enough.

yeah basically i would be looking at around 700 for new pistons,rings,bearings,freeze plugs,boring and honing,etc...  so if anyone knows someone who has a 460 for sale let me know