SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: SLCKREG on January 28, 2008, 06:26:42 PM
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O.k got a batch of braided stainless from Tom. Ummmm, any tips? How do you cut this $hit? I think I have the basic idea , slide the sleve part on the line, hold that with a wrench, and then turn the male part(not the fitting on the hose) to tighten? BTW that stuff can piviot and not leak??????
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though i have never done it....ralph told me once how to do it....
tightly wrap the area you are going to cut with electrical tape....then cut it with a hack saw.
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I did a sh!tload of them and ended up with two leaks, one of them really bad. Anyway... Whe you go to cut your hose, wrap the hose with tape, I used blue masking tape, I cut the hose with a Makita grinder with a cut off wheel - a air die grinder probably would work better, I used 1" tape and cut right down the middle of the tape, the tape that was remaining on the hose after the cut was left on the hose - it keeps the hose from unraviling itself and it was a lot easier to shove in the hose end, the hose has to go all of the way into the end, the biatch part of the job was getting the end's to screw together once the hose was inside but it is do-able, tighten the phock out of the ends clamping the hose together, I used some special vise jaw thingy's to hold one end of the end and used a wrench on the end I wanted to turn, I hope this is making sense to you :P yes it does swivel when you are done and no the swivels don't leak, I'm not sure if you're in San Diego or not but you can use my vise jaw thingy's ;D if you want to. I never did take the tape off of the hoses I cut and that's how I was instructed to do it, you can also make it to where you can pull that tape off of the hose after you've stuffed it into an end and before you clamp the ends together.
PAIN IN THE ASSSS!!
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First off, buy yourself some wrenches made for this, or at a bare minimum, some snapon wrenches with the polished jaws. I had a set of craftsman crows feet that are polished and those worked really well also. If you do not use these methods, you will scratch the crap out of them. IMO, if they are scratched they look like hell. Dont use a crescent wrench wrapped with tape. Doesn't work. Jaws will cut through tape-ask me how I know. You also want the soft aluminum jaws for your vice. I did not have them, so I took an old leather belt and cut it up and wrapped fittings in it and locked them in the vice-worked well.
To cut: I tape the hose really well with some duct tape. split the difference with the tape. Then, cut with a die grinder and then be sure to (for fuel system hose) blow the hose out.
Assembly: Carefully pull the tape off. Insert the hose into the hose end fitting. Make sure the hose doesn't fray, if it does, use a small screw driver to push it into the fitting. Its a tight fit, but you should be able to do this part with your hands. You can look through the threaded end of the fitting to see when the hose is all the way in. It doesn't have to go all the way, but get it close. Now re-tape the hose at the base of the hose end. This will tell you if the next step will push the hose out of the fitting or if the assembly was successful.
Now use some motor oil or other lube(I used some bike chain lube) and spread it on the threads of the fitting. Insert into hose through hose end and start threading by hand. Make sure all threads are clean. Lock the hose end in the vice with teh hose end sticking out just a touch( eighth inch or so) and start turning the fitting with the wrench until they are close and line up the flats(looks nice). Dont get greedy with the flats. If they are close you are good. If you go to far you will break the fitting. Get them close. They dont need to touch. Make sure the assembly didn't push the hose out of the house end and you are good. Remove tape and voila.
On all my hoses< i did one end at a time. Assemble, then check fit to get a good measurement on the total length, then cut and assemble second side.
Here is a shot during my assembly. Have fun. Take your time, measure 3 times, cut once.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sweetperformance.com%2Fproduct%2Fimages%2Fuploads%2Fbig_block_chevy1.jpg&hash=d0fe3b24db90651ae70a5c3bca0ab5110a19e6ae)
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The guy I bought my hoses and ends from told me not to use duct tape, something about the glue, I don't remember. ???
[attachimg=#]
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I did a sh!tload of them and ended up with two leaks, one of them really bad. Anyway... Whe you go to cut your hose, wrap the hose with tape, I used blue masking tape, I cut the hose with a Makita grinder with a cut off wheel - a air die grinder probably would work better, I used 1" tape and cut right down the middle of the tape, the tape that was remaining on the hose after the cut was left on the hose - it keeps the hose from unraviling itself and it was a lot easier to shove in the hose end, the hose has to go all of the way into the end, the biatch part of the job was getting the end's to screw together once the hose was inside but it is do-able, tighten the phock out of the ends clamping the hose together, I used some special vise jaw thingy's to hold one end of the end and used a wrench on the end I wanted to turn, I hope this is making sense to you :P yes it does swivel when you are done and no the swivels don't leak, I'm not sure if you're in San Diego or not but you can use my vise jaw thingy's ;D if you want to. I never did take the tape off of the hoses I cut and that's how I was instructed to do it, you can also make it to where you can pull that tape off of the hose after you've stuffed it into an end and before you clamp the ends together.
PAIN IN THE ASSSS!!
I was told by a Pro Stock guy you'll never get thru NHRA tech with the tape left on.
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That hose looks nice installed; but what a pain; just go with this:
http://www.paragonperformance.com/Techflex.html (http://www.paragonperformance.com/Techflex.html)
;)
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That hose looks nice installed; but what a pain; just go with this:
http://www.paragonperformance.com/Techflex.html (http://www.paragonperformance.com/Techflex.html)
;)
That's only for decoration and does nothing for the overkill factor or the ego. :D
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That's only for decoration and does nothing for the overkill factor or the ego. :D
Thus, the ;)
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Thanks all. I see summit have a cutter for 36.00. I may invest. The vice deal sounds like a must have also. No teflon tape on the water lines. No sealer or anything on the gas lines. Again thanks.
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That hose looks nice installed; but what a pain; just go with this:
http://www.paragonperformance.com/Techflex.html (http://www.paragonperformance.com/Techflex.html)
;)
Did you check the prices of the hoses and the fittings? You can do the real deal cheaper. :)
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I do it a lot.
I use masking tape and a 12 inch chop saw. Once the hose is cut, remove the tape, and after poking several holes in my fingers, attach the fittings and tighten using aluminum wrenches. If you have to use a vise, I did find that a thick rag in the vise will work without scratching.
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Thanks Speedy. So the threads are good to go with nothing? Just lube? :o
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it is a pain in the ass, don't give up, and i did mine with just lube on the end and no tape on hoses
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a little anti seize on the threads wont hurt after assy. alum threads will gall if not taken care of
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a little anti seize on the threads wont hurt after assy. alum threads will gall if not taken care of
Ya got that right and then you have a mess and have to remake the lines if not replace the part(s) that got the threads stripped out. Lots of people remember the Lock-Tite but forget the anti-seize.
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I use liberal amounts of WD40, and nothing else. I have NEVER used anti seize on those fittings, never had a problem - I just took and reused a fitting that was on there for 12 years. Also, why you would need or want locktite is beyond me. They aren't coming apart.
You need anti seize on a steel bolt into an aluminum head because of the dissimular metals will try to corrode each other and cause them to lock. Worse combo for that is stainless into aluminum. After a while, they will be permanatly fused together....
But al to al? No issues.
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I use liberal amounts of WD40, and nothing else. I have NEVER used anti seize on those fittings, never had a problem - I just took and reused a fitting that was on there for 12 years. Also, why you would need or want locktite is beyond me. They aren't coming apart.
You need anti seize on a steel bolt into an aluminum head because of the dissimular metals will try to corrode each other and cause them to lock. Worse combo for that is stainless into aluminum. After a while, they will be permanatly fused together....
But al to al? No issues.
ok ill try the wd-40, anti seize is a bit messy :-[