SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: coors909 on July 11, 2015, 08:05:36 PM
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What is the best way to keep your carb from needing to be rebuilt if it's going to be sitting for a while?
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Run it out of fuel before layup and pour a little WD40 in it.
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What is the best way to keep your carb from needing to be rebuilt if it's going to be sitting for a while?
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X2 with what GT said.
Are you familiar with how to do this?
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I have never done it before.
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I have never done it before.
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I have an electric fuel pump, so for me it's pulling out a relay and running it out of fuel.
On a mechanical, you can simply pull off the feed hose.
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Could I just pull the feed line if I have an electric fuel pump to? My carb was sitting for a year now the the front of the carb is leaking.
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Could I just pull the feed line if I have an electric fuel pump to? My carb was sitting for a year now the the front of the carb is leaking.
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Holley carb? Do you know where it's leaking from?
I drain the bowls by removing one of the lower bowl bolts and letting the gas drain into a cup. Then spray the WD40 in there.
The Carb Shop on Philidelphia, just east of Grove, is a good shop to get parts and work done.
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edelbrock 750. Leaking from the front bowl.
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edelbrock 750. Leaking from the front bowl.
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That's sort of bad. Are you sure the bowl is leaking?
GT
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The square part that is bolted to the front of the carb. It's leaking from there.
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I'm sorry it's a Holley.
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I'm sorry it's a Holley.
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Whew. .
You need bowl, metering plate and screw gaskets and a tiny bit of motor oil for the new gaskets.
Piece of cheese. Done it in a Sears parking lot during 100° weather.
GT
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Cool. So Holley is pretty forgiving or are they just pretty easy to work on?
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Cool. So Holley is pretty forgiving or are they just pretty easy to work on?
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Probably one of the simplest carburetors on the market.
Most parts stores stock bulk gaskets.
Plan on spending about $30 and an hour.
Very few moving parts for what you need to do.
JMO
GT
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Alright thank you
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I have the Holley that came with it but the accelerator pumps were leaking. The carb I out on was rebuilt and so post to be bad ass for a jet boat.
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Whew. .
You need bowl, metering plate and screw gaskets and a tiny bit of motor oil for the new gaskets.
Piece of cheese. Done it in a Sears parking lot during 100° weather.
GT
Do you just coat the gaskets like an oil filter gasket? Is it just to make it easier to get off?
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Do you just coat the gaskets like an oil filter gasket? Is it just to make it easier to get off?
Doesn't everybody? Been doing it like that all my life. Probably more than 200 carburetors.
It keeps the gaskets from sticking super bad and they stay soft and don't shrink nearly as much.
I have been able to pull the bowls on the a Southwind small blocks 750 double pumper and I built it about five years ago. Re-jetted it and used the original gaskets.
I thought it was pretty cool. My pop was blown away.
GT
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I've been doing that forever, works like a charm
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Doesn't everybody? Been doing it like that all my life. Probably more than 200 carburetors.
It keeps the gaskets from sticking super bad and they stay soft and don't shrink nearly as much.
I have been able to pull the bowls on the a Southwind small blocks 750 double pumper and I built it about five years ago. Re-jetted it and used the original gaskets.
I thought it was pretty cool. My pop was blown away.
GT
Uhmm, No. Seems simple enough and yet I've never even thought of it (but that's not saying much :o ).
Scrapping gaskets of the carb bowl SUCKS. Holley has new blue gaskets that are better, but when I first got my boat, :bang head:.
Thanks for the tip.
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I got the carb to stop leaking some bolts were loose. Will see if it holds up. Boat started up and sounded alright
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I got the carb to stop leaking some bolts were loose. Will see if it holds up. Boat started up and sounded alright
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If it was the fuel bowl bolts, be sure not to torque the down too much.
I have to fix stripped threads for the bowl bolt. :banghead:
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I didn't go to tight. I'm having a problem with fuel leaking I tried thread sealer it's still leaking. The picture shows where it's still leaking from. I got the other leaks to stop
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I didn't go to tight. I'm having a problem with fuel leaking I tried thread sealer it's still leaking. The picture shows where it's still leaking from. I got the other leaks to stop
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Is it leaking from the hose barb adapter to AN?
Sometimes you need to grab some Scotch Brite and clean the male flare, thread sealant isn't going to do squat.
Do you have the right wrenches?
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I think the hose barb to the AN is what is leaking. The screw with the Allen head was a bit loose so I just made that snug. What wrenches do I need? Is there a special way to tighten it?
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I think the hose barb to the AN is what is leaking. The screw with the Allen head was a bit loose so I just made that snug. What wrenches do I need? Is there a special way to tighten it?
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You really should use AN wrenches, they are made of aluminum. They should be installed with a touch of oil, motor oil is fine, I like to use Teflon paste. I like the paste because it seals out moisture and keeps them from corroding. These gall very easily.
JMO
GT
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Ok so it's that screw that is leaking it's tight and still keeps leaking not a lot but
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You mean put oil on the threads and then paste? Where do I get the paste?
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Loctite 565 is what I use... It's quite spendy to be honest. Oil "or" paste, you don't need both.
That hole is for a gauge. FYI :sly:
GT
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Was wondering what it was for. Where do I get that lock tight? If I out a gauge in there should I use lock tight or paste?
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http://www.grainger.com/product/LOCTITE-565-TM-Pipe-Sealant-4KM16 (http://www.grainger.com/product/LOCTITE-565-TM-Pipe-Sealant-4KM16)
Don't forget, I told you it was expensive...
GT
PM me your address, I will send you a partial... :thumbup:
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On the fittings would you use oil or paste? I will send my address right now
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http://www.grainger.com/product/LOCTITE-565-TM-Pipe-Sealant-4KM16 (http://www.grainger.com/product/LOCTITE-565-TM-Pipe-Sealant-4KM16)
Don't forget, I told you it was expensive...
GT
PM me your address, I will send you a partial... :thumbup:
Holy shitaki!
I didnt realize that shit was so pricey. I guess i take advantage of getting it free from a gm dealer. Probably same stuff bottle looks same just doesnt say GM
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Holy shitaki!
I didnt realize that shit was so pricey. I guess i take advantage of getting it free from a gm dealer. Probably same stuff bottle looks same just doesnt say GM
The link is for the the 250 ml tube, $78. They also sell it in a 50ml tube for $28. Still pricey. :o
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The link is for the the 250 ml tube, $78. They also sell it in a 50ml tube for $28. Still pricey. :o
im not sure the size of the tubes i get. Im guessing 50ml
Still wow
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There's always oil, just saying but it's really easy to gall the threads.