...take out fuel regulator no need with a Holley Red
Take it on on lake and run it under load and see how it does. So that is what I am going to do.
What mechanical pump were you running and why was it swapped out? Just because your old shop didn't like it?
Be advised that the Holley red pump is rated at 97GPH at 7PSI. In my opinion, a red pump is better suited for a street rod with a ZZ4 crate motor that will cruise from car show to car show, not a serious turbo application.
In an attempt to prevent a total nuclear melt-down, I would approach lake tuning, starting with some part-throttle runs and checking your plugs, after each run, for signs of detonation. If you choose to run the red pump, keep an eye on your fuel pressure. If you see a pressure drop as you accelerate, it is not up to the task.
What do your fuel lines consist of? Your suction side should be sufficient to provide enough flow to the pump without restriction. I would also recommend not running a filter between the pump and the tank at all or, if you feel the need to protect your pump, run a coarse mesh filter between the tank and pump. The pump will tolerate small debris flowing through it. Run a good filter that is capable of withstanding full system pressure (and flow), on the pressure side between the pump and carb. A filter on the suction side can cause pseudo cavitation in your fuel pump. I now filter every drop of fuel as it enters my tank with a filter funnel.
A final thought on electric pumps, I would mount it as low as possible and behind the tanks to promote gravity flow to the pump to prevent starvation. If your system utilizes a regulator, mount the regulator forward of the carb. Install low pressure lines from the regulator to the carb so that all low pressure fuel flow is from front to rear, with no changes in direction from rearward to forward. G-forces on acceleration will resist fuel flow and pressure at the needle and seat valves will drop.
Horsepower - if you aint feeding 'em, you aint got 'em
