Here is a start for you.
I would go this route.
Forged crank (not necessary, but what could it hurt, this is theoretical
) When the machining is done on the crank, add .0002" to the final bearing clearances. Does not seem like much, but it will allow you to run a thicker weight oil.
On the cylinder to piston, this is where debate comes in. For forged pistons. We have always used 1.05 as a multiplier to the factory ring/piston manufacturer specifications, this allows for additional piston to cylinder clearances, the block is going to stay stupid cold while the pistons will really heat up, this gets close to the proper clearances in the conditions of a jet aplication. As soon as you have a closed system or are running a thermostat, this somewhat goes out the window, but it is the same spec GM used on the Corvette engines for decades. GM intentionally set them up "loose" because they knew they were going to get driven hard an put away wet. This is why they sometimes had a skirt slap at start up. (In Cliff Clavins's best voice "very little known fact").
Camshaft I would not settle for anything less than a hydraulic roller, use a wide lobe center, don't overdue the cam duration. (I may expand more on this later.).
The valve guides need to be a smidge loose as well, the cylinder heads run pretty darn cool. In most cases I would say iron guides add about .00025", ensure the stem seals are installed and the guide tops don't interfere with the rotators. You really should have twice the recommended clearance here. The reasons are a little lame, you may desire to increase the rocker ratio later to gain some lift, it don't cost nothin'... Doubt you will, but since your into it...
Gotta go stuff my face, more later.
GT
