On your block your waterneck should have two outlets... So two hoses coming off the waterneck on your block. One hose will need to go out the side or back of the boat somehow. The other hose will attach to the single end of your "T" valve. Now the two remaining ends of your "T" valve will need to have 2 more hoses running to the injection lines in your headers.
If I remember correctly the hose needed is 5/8" heater hose. You're probably thinking this description makes no sense whatsoever..... If you need help let me know, I'm sorta local to you and you can call me up. I'm just over the hill in santa clarita.


DO NOT MAKE THE SAME MISTAKE I DID!!!!! DO NOT LET ANY HOSE CLAMPS GET UNDER YOUR ENGINE!!! MAKE SURE ONLY SOFT HOSES  ARE RUNNING UNDER YOUR ENGINE IF YOU MUST HAVE ANYTHING UNDER IT.

Perfect HD. Between my boggled description and that diagram he should be able to get it...

The three sides of the T are all -8

Off the top of the motor one side does go to the T which then goes to the headers the other exit does need to exit the boat if it goes back to the motor or is plugged it will cause the water temp in the motor to climb and it will over heat or come pretty close depending on how hard you run the boat.

The Bassett T has a ball and spring inside, what this does is when there is not enough pressure from the motor being at a lower rpm it keeps the water from going into the headers and reducing the risk of reversion. As the RPM increases, the flow of the exhaust is higher and helps push the water out.

Its a good idea to check the ball and spring before the beginning of each season, the springs and deteriotate and come apart.

I think the T's are about $80.00 but they are serviceable.
Jason

Jason,
Thanks for your help, I think I get it now, I'll be installing the engine in the next few weeks so I just wanted to get a head start on this stuff, thanks again

Skip